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69morris
 
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Default Hotpoint 9526 - stopped working altogether - HELP!!

Help - I've got a hotpoint 9526 washing machine that suddenly stopped
working after a 50 deg cycle finished today. I've done the usual -
checked the fuse, checked the pecker assembly inside the machine, taken
the brushes out (they seem OK - they've got about 2cms left on them).
The machine will not do anything - will not fill, spin or make any
rotating effort whatsover.

Could it be the timer mechanism? Any help would be really appreciated
as our clothes are getting smelly.

Cheers

69morris

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Bob Eager
 
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On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 21:17:44 UTC, "69morris"
wrote:

Help - I've got a hotpoint 9526 washing machine that suddenly stopped
working after a 50 deg cycle finished today. I've done the usual -
checked the fuse, checked the pecker assembly inside the machine, taken
the brushes out (they seem OK - they've got about 2cms left on them).
The machine will not do anything - will not fill, spin or make any
rotating effort whatsover.

Could it be the timer mechanism? Any help would be really appreciated
as our clothes are getting smelly.


Safety switch on the door? (not the Bowden cable to the pecker)
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69morris
 
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Safety switch mmmm....... haven't tried that - Is it a similar sort of
thing to the pecker assembly, but on the door? Secondly is it
reasonably OK to remove?

Thanks

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Bob Eager
 
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On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 21:54:50 UTC, "69morris"
wrote:

Safety switch mmmm....... haven't tried that - Is it a similar sort of
thing to the pecker assembly, but on the door? Secondly is it
reasonably OK to remove?


The door catch has an electrical switch, and also a Bowden cable
connecting it with the pecker. Motor (well, belt) movement prevents the
pecker seating and frustrates the door catch operation via the Bowden
cable, thus the door can't be opened if the drum is in motion. The
electrical switch is a further interlock. Fairly simple to get to if you
take the front off. If you're asking 'is it OK to take it out and do
away with it'....no!

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69morris
 
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Thanks - I'll get one of those today and see if works!



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69morris wrote:
Thanks - I'll get one of those today and see if works!


It might be too late by the time you read this, but a better (well,
possibly cheaper approach) would be to test it, and or temporarily
bypass it (just to check that a new switch is what's required)).

I'm sure the specifics of how to do this have been discussed here
before (Google is your friend).

If not, if you are competetent at operating a multimeter, it shouldn't
take too much working out.

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69morris
 
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I've just bought one the interlocks, but I'll definately try your
method out first, and possibly save myself 30 quid . - Cheers

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69morris
 
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Thanks to both of you - after taking the top off the machine and delved
around near the safety interlock, I found a broken cable that was
supposed to go to one of the contacts on the safety interlock. The wire
was corroded and quite brittle for around 2 inches. I cut the wire back
to good cable, re made the joint with the spade connector and hey
presto, the thing works fine !!

This is my first go at using these newsgroups, but after the advice
I've received (and the money I've saved) it won't be the last!! 8-)

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Bob Eager
 
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On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 20:58:56 UTC, "69morris"
wrote:

Thanks to both of you - after taking the top off the machine and delved
around near the safety interlock, I found a broken cable that was
supposed to go to one of the contacts on the safety interlock. The wire
was corroded and quite brittle for around 2 inches. I cut the wire back
to good cable, re made the joint with the spade connector and hey
presto, the thing works fine !!

This is my first go at using these newsgroups, but after the advice
I've received (and the money I've saved) it won't be the last!! 8-)


Glad to hear it. My first post (a while ago) was about changing washing
machine bearings...!

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