I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish? Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.

TIA

Skyblue

On 26 Jul 2005 15:32:23 -0700, "skyblue" wrote:

I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish? Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.

TIA

Skyblue


A better solution if you are going to do this is to cut wooden plugs
from the material used for the skirting board, matching the different
colours as well as you can. Then use a counterbore bit to drill the
holes for the screws in the skirting.

Fix the skirting to the wall - 2 screws per metre or so should be
enough.

Then apply some glue to the plugs and tap them gently into place.

Finally when the glue is dry, cut off the plugs flush with a flush
cutting saw and lightly sand.

You will thn be able to varnish and have nearly invisible plugs which
will take the stain and varnish. Even where the plugs do show, they
will not look out of place.

Plug cutters fit a bench drill or even hand drill if you are careful
and can drill perpendicular. You can buy these and the counterbore
bits as pairs of a given size. You drill with the plug cutter and
then pop the plugs out with a screwdriver.

Axminster Power Tools part 300532 is a typical set.

or

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=22401&recno=2


and for a saw

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=23573&recno=5

or

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=20397&recno=7



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

skyblue wrote:
I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish? Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.

TIA

Skyblue

Before staining the skirting find/borrow a felt tip pen near to the colour
of the stain and fill in the filler with the pen you will hardly notice it
when stained, particulary if its dark oak your staining the skirting.

Andy Hall wrote:


A better solution if you are going to do this is to cut wooden plugs

Yup, I second that...

Axminster Power Tools part 300532 is a typical set.

Or if you want a cheap solution that will do a room full of skirting and
probably not much mo

http://www.toolstation.com/index.html?code=64444

(and use an ordinary drill bit of matching size to counterbore).

--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message


Andy Hall wrote:

A better solution if you are going to do this is to cut wooden plugs

http://www.toolstation.com/index.html?code=64444

That's if you are taking the time for a pristine job only shopfitting
snaggers will notice.
Cut the plugs as you need them from the offcut of the piece you just
used and note the spacing of the grain.

For a job that will look just as good; hire a nail gun and use mastic
glue. (Of course this depends on what you are fixing the boards to. It
will handle anything up to soft brick. It may baulk at some concrete
blocks but I doubt it.)







--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

skyblue wrote:
I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head.

Bore a hole with a 1/2" auger bit (or whatever) part way through,
screw through, stick in a plug cut with a 1/2" plug cutter. Chisel
off surplus, then rub flat.

However I want to varnish (using a dark oak coloured varnish)

No! Stain the timber with *spirit based* wood dye, let it dry,
then use clear varnish. Coloured varnish chips, and the timber
shows through under.


rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish?

Plugs won't - if you use filler, make sure that it is the sort
that accepts stain. You might care to use a little knotting on
the screw head before filling to stop bleed through.


Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.

I should put a screw in every 18" or so, just below the moulding.
and one every so far near the bottom.

Are you fixing straight into the wall, on on "battens"?

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 05:53:12 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:

"John Rumm" wrote in message


Andy Hall wrote:

A better solution if you are going to do this is to cut wooden plugs

http://www.toolstation.com/index.html?code=64444

That's if you are taking the time for a pristine job only shopfitting
snaggers will notice.

I'd notice. If a job is worth doing, I think that it should be done
well.


Cut the plugs as you need them from the offcut of the piece you just
used and note the spacing of the grain.

Exactly. This matches the colour reasonably as well.




For a job that will look just as good; hire a nail gun and use mastic
glue. (Of course this depends on what you are fixing the boards to. It
will handle anything up to soft brick. It may baulk at some concrete
blocks but I doubt it.)

Hmmm.. Don't like this. For wide skirting especially it seems
like a bodge.





--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

skyblue wrote:
I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish? Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.

TIA

Skyblue

Traditonal is best - just use nails into wooden plugs or battens
behind. Nail in the quirk out of sight (the acute angle in the
moulding). More nails nearer to the middle of the board if necessary to
pull the skirting in - punch in and fill - they are then virtually
invisible. 7inch torus fairly hefty so use 3inch nails.

cheers

Jacob

"skyblue" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish? Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.

TIA

Skyblue

=================
You could use 'plastic wood' as filler. You can buy it in different colours
(B&Q, Focus etc) to match the wood you're filling. This isn't as good as
the plugging method described by other respondents but it's cheaper and
almost invisible if you're careful.

Cic.

Andy Hall wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 05:53:12 +0000 (UTC), "Michael Mcneil"
wrote:


"John Rumm" wrote in message



Andy Hall wrote:

A better solution if you are going to do this is to cut wooden plugs

http://www.toolstation.com/index.html?code=64444

That's if you are taking the time for a pristine job only shopfitting
snaggers will notice.


I'd notice. If a job is worth doing, I think that it should be done
well.



Cut the plugs as you need them from the offcut of the piece you just
used and note the spacing of the grain.


Exactly. This matches the colour reasonably as well.




For a job that will look just as good; hire a nail gun and use mastic
glue. (Of course this depends on what you are fixing the boards to. It
will handle anything up to soft brick. It may baulk at some concrete
blocks but I doubt it.)


Hmmm.. Don't like this. For wide skirting especially it seems
like a bodge.





None of you is a Gripfil fan then!
I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker. The big advantage to me is it ensures the board is straight and
not being pushed and pulled all over the place by the fixings.

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:42:39 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:





None of you is a Gripfil fan then!

Not for that job, Stuart.

I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker.

I am not sure that either is true.

The big advantage to me is it ensures the board is straight and
not being pushed and pulled all over the place by the fixings.

If the wall and the board are straight (as they should be) then this
is not at issue.

Gripfill has its applications, but IMHO, fixing skirting boards is a
bodged one.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Andy Hall wrote:

Gripfill has its applications, but IMHO, fixing skirting boards is a
bodged one.


hangs head in shame


--
Grunff

Stuart Noble wrote:

None of you is a Gripfil fan then!

It has its moments...

I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker. The big advantage to me is it ensures the board is straight and
not being pushed and pulled all over the place by the fixings.

but I also recall cursing the poxy twisted wonky skirting you get these
days when you need a few screws to pull it into some semblance of
"straight" ;-)

(just off to gripfill a length of skirting to a wall I covered with an
extra 30mm layer of foiled PIR foam under the plasterboard... can't
remember where the studs are, and my Zircon can't see through the
metallised foil! ;-) )

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Andy Hall wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:42:39 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:





None of you is a Gripfil fan then!


Not for that job, Stuart.


I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker.


I am not sure that either is true.

I don't think anyone can dispute that it's quicker, and a surface free
of holes and filler has to look better. It will certainly be firmly
fixed to the wall and any voids will be filled, so how can you improve
on that?

skyblue wrote:

I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish?

Yes.

Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.


Why not glue it?


TIA

Skyblue

Andy Hall wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:42:39 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:





None of you is a Gripfil fan then!


Not for that job, Stuart.


I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker.


I am not sure that either is true.


The big advantage to me is it ensures the board is straight and
not being pushed and pulled all over the place by the fixings.


If the wall and the board are straight (as they should be) then this
is not at issue.

Gripfill has its applications, but IMHO, fixing skirting boards is a
bodged one.



Actually, its about the only use I can think of for the stuff. I hate
it, but for fixing skirtings its a very good method.

John Rumm wrote:

Stuart Noble wrote:

None of you is a Gripfil fan then!


It has its moments...

I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker. The big advantage to me is it ensures the board is straight
and not being pushed and pulled all over the place by the fixings.


but I also recall cursing the poxy twisted wonky skirting you get these
days when you need a few screws to pull it into some semblance of
"straight" ;-)


spend money on straight bits, not on plug cutters then.

(just off to gripfill a length of skirting to a wall I covered with an
extra 30mm layer of foiled PIR foam under the plasterboard... can't
remember where the studs are, and my Zircon can't see through the
metallised foil! ;-) )

Stuart Noble wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:42:39 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:





None of you is a Gripfil fan then!



Not for that job, Stuart.


I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and
plugging and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job
better and quicker.



I am not sure that either is true.


I don't think anyone can dispute that it's quicker, and a surface free
of holes and filler has to look better. It will certainly be firmly
fixed to the wall and any voids will be filled, so how can you improve
on that?

Exactly.

Well car body filler maybe..;-)

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

spend money on straight bits, not on plug cutters then.

I wish it was that easy ;-)

It may be striaght when you buy it, but that does not mean it will be by
the time it has acclimatised to its new surroundings and you want to fit it.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

spend money on straight bits, not on plug cutters then.

I wish it was that easy ;-)

It may be striaght when you buy it, but that does not mean it will be
by the time it has acclimatised to its new surroundings and you want
to fit it.


Very true, thats why I buy it on the same day I'm going to fit it. :-)

If you cant fit it straight away, lying it down flat and putting heavy
objects at various intervals along the wood keeps it from warping, also keep
away from heating areas(radiators).

Stuart Noble wrote:
.... snipped


None of you is a Gripfil fan then!
I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker. The big advantage to me is it ensures the board is straight and
not being pushed and pulled all over the place by the fixings.

I find gripfill skins too fast. By the time I'm running my second bead
the first one is starting to skin, the water-based no-more-nails seems
to be better but maybe doesn't give such a strong bond.
I work fairly quickly but can only manage gripfill on very short lengths.

Dave

John Rumm wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
spend money on straight bits, not on plug cutters then.

It may be striaght when you buy it, but that does not mean it will be by
the time it has acclimatised to its new surroundings and you want to fit
it.

What! For skirting? Just bang it on, else it'll snake!

Dave wrote:
I find gripfill skins too fast. By the time I'm running my second bead
the first one is starting to skin

Put it on and slide the work about a bit before finally positioning.

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 13:44:40 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:42:39 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:





None of you is a Gripfil fan then!


Not for that job, Stuart.


I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker.


I am not sure that either is true.

I don't think anyone can dispute that it's quicker, and a surface free
of holes and filler has to look better. It will certainly be firmly
fixed to the wall and any voids will be filled, so how can you improve
on that?


Doing it properly with counterbored screws and properly fitted wooden
plugs.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In message , Andy Hall
writes
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 13:44:40 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:


I don't think anyone can dispute that it's quicker, and a surface free
of holes and filler has to look better. It will certainly be firmly
fixed to the wall and any voids will be filled, so how can you improve
on that?


Doing it properly with counterbored screws and properly fitted wooden
plugs.

Yeah, but why is that better?


I have used No more nails etc. to fit skirting, but I've normally had to
nail or screw anyway as most of my walls aren't flat enough anyway
--
Chris French

Andy Hall wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 13:44:40 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:42:39 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:





None of you is a Gripfil fan then!


Not for that job, Stuart.



I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker.


I am not sure that either is true.

I don't think anyone can dispute that it's quicker, and a surface free
of holes and filler has to look better. It will certainly be firmly
fixed to the wall and any voids will be filled, so how can you improve
on that?



Doing it properly with counterbored screws and properly fitted wooden
plugs.



Oh come on now. Surely adze whittled oak pegs in hand augered holes
wedged from the back with wild boars trotters?

Get real.

Andy Hall wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 13:44:40 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:42:39 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:





None of you is a Gripfil fan then!


Not for that job, Stuart.



I can't believe anyone would go through all that drilling and plugging
and filling lark when a tube of that stuff does the job better and
quicker.


I am not sure that either is true.

I don't think anyone can dispute that it's quicker, and a surface free
of holes and filler has to look better. It will certainly be firmly
fixed to the wall and any voids will be filled, so how can you improve
on that?



Doing it properly with counterbored screws and properly fitted wooden
plugs.



Seems to me that's work for the sake of it, with no benefits that I can
think of.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
skyblue wrote:

I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish?

Yes.

Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.


Why not glue it?


TIA

Skyblue

And to cap it off...who the hell is gonna stick their nose up against a
Skirtboard and say...blimey! thats a shoddy job you've done there ain't it.

On 26 Jul 2005 15:32:23 -0700, in uk.d-i-y "skyblue"
wrote:

I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish? Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.

I won't address plugging and varnishing - you've had plenty of replies
already on that.

The best way to re-fix skirting boards neatly that I have come across
was posted by Jonathan Marsters back in 1996. See
http://groups.google.com/groups?selm...0nmp.nokia.com

I have recently re-fixed some 7" skirting based on this idea, and
although it took me a lot longer that the 'just bang or glue em on'
merchants, it did produce a dead straight run in both the horizontal and
vertical planes.

To get the skirting in a straight run, as well as vertical, I put in a
row of support screws as per Jonathan's idea, then ran a piece of string
across the heads from left to right. I then adjusted the heads in and
out to get them all lined up.

In my case there was no plaster to support the top edge of the board so
I used a pair of support screws at each location to support and align
both the top and bottom edges, and then fixed the board with a third
screw between these two. Note that with modern reversible skirting, you
need to be careful to locate suitable flat places on the backside of the
board, where it will bear on these screw heads. This is because there is
an alternative moulding on the rear which will occupy the lowest two
inches or so.

There is a general problem when screwing boards to a wall, in that you
need the hole through the board to exactly line up with the plug in the
wall which you cannot see when the board is being fixed! The solution is
to drill a pilot through the board first, making sure it is in front of
a solid brick, and not a mortar gap. Then take a long masonry drill of
the screw pilot diameter (or a little less) and drill right through the
skirting into the wall. Finally, remove the skirting and open up the
pilot hole in the wall with the final size masonry drill to suit the
rawlplug.

Phil
The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/
The Google uk.d-i-y archive is at http://tinyurl.com/65kwq
Remove NOSPAM from address to email me

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 20:44:53 +0100, chris French
wrote:

In message , Andy Hall
writes
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 13:44:40 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:


I don't think anyone can dispute that it's quicker, and a surface free
of holes and filler has to look better. It will certainly be firmly
fixed to the wall and any voids will be filled, so how can you improve
on that?


Doing it properly with counterbored screws and properly fitted wooden
plugs.

Yeah, but why is that better?

Because it's the right way to do it and if you want to, you can easily
remove the skirting later for redecorating or any other purpose.


I have used No more nails etc. to fit skirting, but I've normally had to
nail or screw anyway as most of my walls aren't flat enough anyway

So you could have screwed only and acheived the same result.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 20:46:56 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:



Oh come on now. Surely adze whittled oak pegs in hand augered holes
wedged from the back with wild boars trotters?

Yes but they would need to be dried on the Aga carefully first.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 19:50:48 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:


Doing it properly with counterbored screws and properly fitted wooden
plugs.



Seems to me that's work for the sake of it, with no benefits that I can
think of.


The satisfaction of a job well done and being able to remove the board
easily later if required.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 20:02:47 GMT, "ben" wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
skyblue wrote:

I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish?

Yes.

Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.


Why not glue it?


TIA

Skyblue

And to cap it off...who the hell is gonna stick their nose up against a
Skirtboard and say...blimey! thats a shoddy job you've done there ain't it.



It's the same argument as when you wallpaper a room and get it a bit
wrong. The person who does it knows where the wrong part is and it
grates on them.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Dave wrote:

I find gripfill skins too fast. By the time I'm running my second bead
the first one is starting to skin, the water-based no-more-nails seems
to be better but maybe doesn't give such a strong bond.
I work fairly quickly but can only manage gripfill on very short lengths.

Try the yellow tube version (solvent free)....


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Phil Addison" wrote in message
news
On 26 Jul 2005 15:32:23 -0700, in uk.d-i-y "skyblue"
wrote:

snip

The best way to re-fix skirting boards neatly that I have come across
was posted by Jonathan Marsters back in 1996. See
http://groups.google.com/groups?selm...0nmp.nokia.com

I have recently re-fixed some 7" skirting based on this idea, and
although it took me a lot longer that the 'just bang or glue em on'
merchants, it did produce a dead straight run in both the horizontal and
vertical planes.

To get the skirting in a straight run, as well as vertical, I put in a
row of support screws as per Jonathan's idea, then ran a piece of string
across the heads from left to right. I then adjusted the heads in and
out to get them all lined up.

In my case there was no plaster to support the top edge of the board so
I used a pair of support screws at each location to support and align
both the top and bottom edges, and then fixed the board with a third
screw between these two. Note that with modern reversible skirting, you
need to be careful to locate suitable flat places on the backside of the
board, where it will bear on these screw heads. This is because there is
an alternative moulding on the rear which will occupy the lowest two
inches or so.

There is a general problem when screwing boards to a wall, in that you
need the hole through the board to exactly line up with the plug in the
wall which you cannot see when the board is being fixed! The solution is
to drill a pilot through the board first, making sure it is in front of
a solid brick, and not a mortar gap. Then take a long masonry drill of
the screw pilot diameter (or a little less) and drill right through the
skirting into the wall. Finally, remove the skirting and open up the
pilot hole in the wall with the final size masonry drill to suit the
rawlplug.

Phil
snip

===================
If you're using this method it's easier to use 'hammer fixings'
(e.g. http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...36620&id=18353)
because you drill and fix as you go along the board.

Cic.

Andy Hall wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 20:02:47 GMT, "ben" wrote:


The Natural Philosopher wrote:

skyblue wrote:


I am planning to replace skirting boards by screwing, countersinking
and filling over the screw head. However I want to varnish (using a
dark oak coloured varnish) rather than paint the skirting, will the
filler be very visible through the varnish?

Yes.


Also, roughly how many
screws are required per metre and how far up the skirting should the
screws be fixed? I am using 7" torus skirting.


Why not glue it?



TIA

Skyblue

And to cap it off...who the hell is gonna stick their nose up against a
Skirtboard and say...blimey! thats a shoddy job you've done there ain't it.




It's the same argument as when you wallpaper a room and get it a bit
wrong. The person who does it knows where the wrong part is and it
grates on them.



But this isn't "wrong" , nor does it look wrong. I think your reputation
for reasoned argument has taken a bit of a knock here

On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 08:40:37 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:



But this isn't "wrong" , nor does it look wrong. I think your reputation
for reasoned argument has taken a bit of a knock here

OK, let me describe it differently.

Practical issues.

- Sticking it to the wall implies either sticking it to the surface of
a plaster skim coat or plasterboard. These are not really strong
surfaces. The alternative is to cut the plasterboard at the top of
the skirting level and stand the skirting off from it on blocks. Then
you can't really stick it.

- If you need to remove the skirting you can't.

- If the skirting has a tendency to twist, which it may well, then it
will be pulling away from the wall.

- If the wall isn't perfectly straight it will be difficult to
maintain it in position while it is being stuck.

- If I use counterbored holes and screws and plugs, I can overcome all
of the above issues.


Aesthetic issues.

- If I make a wooden construction, I can nail it together, screw it,
biscuit joint it or use another joint like a box or dovetail. These
range in terms of strength and visual appeal. The box and dovetail
joints give good strength and look aesthetically appealing as well.
So given that it is desirable to achieve the practical objectives
above by using screws to fasten the skirting board, it then makes
sense to use a method which produces a neat visual appearance and
where the concealing plugs can be removed if need be.


A reasoned argument.




--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 20:56:10 GMT, Phil Addison
wrote:

The best way to re-fix skirting boards neatly that I have come across
was posted by Jonathan Marsters back in 1996. See
http://groups.google.com/groups?selm...0nmp.nokia.com

That was the only way I could get a desent fit on double sided boards
with a slight convex profile to the side I had chosen to go against
the wall.

Also you can offer up 2 boards that have been mitred to fit against
each other and continue to adjust the backing screws till it looks
just right. Then attach them to the wall.

M

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 20:02:47 GMT, "ben" wrote:



And to cap it off...who the hell is gonna stick their nose up against a
Skirtboard and say...blimey! thats a shoddy job you've done there ain't it.


LOL but:
In a Travel Inn in Prtsmouth I found myself feeling smug and superior
at the at the state of the ill fitting skirting as I killed time. And
in a Pizza Hut awaiting the order I found myself scanning the trim
around the counter and looking at the wonkyness and big gaps all over
the place. I havnt been back

It is possible to OCD about trim I think.

Andy Hall wrote:
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 08:40:37 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:



But this isn't "wrong" , nor does it look wrong. I think your reputation
for reasoned argument has taken a bit of a knock here


OK, let me describe it differently.

Practical issues.

- Sticking it to the wall implies either sticking it to the surface of
a plaster skim coat or plasterboard. These are not really strong
surfaces.

Gripfil is about the stickiest thing after silicone and, spread across
the area of a skirting board, the bond is massive. The board would do
its job without any fixings at all except that it would keep falling
over. It's why you don't nail carpet to the floor.


- If you need to remove the skirting you can't.

True, though laminate flooring is the only reason I can think of to
remove it.


- If the skirting has a tendency to twist, which it may well, then it
will be pulling away from the wall.

Good quality skirting shouldn't twist. Of course it shrinks, but twist
is predictable and any decent merchant will select the right material
for the job. If it distorts in his yard, which it may well do in a warm
summer, he is stuck with unsaleable stock.


- If the wall isn't perfectly straight it will be difficult to
maintain it in position while it is being stuck.

The main function of Gripfil is to grip the wall *and* fill the voids.
What you shouldn't do IMO is try and persuade a straight board to follow
a ****ed wall because you're leaving the wood under tension which will
tend to split over time. Also, skirting and picture rail are good for
creating the illusion of straightness in a room but the plaster/filler
has to follow the moulding rather than the other way round.

Aesthetic issues.

- If I make a wooden construction, I can nail it together, screw it,
biscuit joint it or use another joint like a box or dovetail. These
range in terms of strength and visual appeal. The box and dovetail
joints give good strength and look aesthetically appealing as well.
So given that it is desirable to achieve the practical objectives
above by using screws to fasten the skirting board, it then makes
sense to use a method which produces a neat visual appearance and
where the concealing plugs can be removed if need be.

If your method *is* the chosen objective, then your method of concealing
it is the only option. A neighbour of mine insists on using 1" screws to
hang pictures when a picture hook would not only suffice, but would be
more elegant precisely because it isn't so secure.


A reasoned argument.

Hmm