The mixer unit in question is ikea EDSVIK, but many other makes use a
similar design.

The tap unit fits over a single hole in the sink & two pipes about
250mm long are supplied which screw into the base of the tap unit via a
12mm a/f nut/screw soldered on to the tube. The tubes flare out half
way down (away from the tap) into standard 15mm dia tube. The H & C
tubes almost touch over the whole length of 15mm section.

Q. How are you meant to make the connection to the H & C feeds
(standard 15mm Cu in the current kitchen)?

If you solder a 90deg bend on then you won't be able to tighten the
tube screwed end at the tap base, (or undo it at some later stage for
maintenance). [because turning one tube with bend will foul the other
tube & take it away from the direction of the water connection]

OTOH there isn't enough space between the tubes to fit a compression
fitting. Nor space to use a push fit connection.


puzzled!

many TIA for any clue

In article .com,
writes:
The mixer unit in question is ikea EDSVIK, but many other makes use a
similar design.

The tap unit fits over a single hole in the sink & two pipes about
250mm long are supplied which screw into the base of the tap unit via a
12mm a/f nut/screw soldered on to the tube. The tubes flare out half
way down (away from the tap) into standard 15mm dia tube. The H & C
tubes almost touch over the whole length of 15mm section.

Q. How are you meant to make the connection to the H & C feeds
(standard 15mm Cu in the current kitchen)?

You chuck them in the bin, and buy a couple of flexible tap
connectors which are available with the same screw ends, and
either screw or pushfit at the other end. I usually fit
isolation valves to the pipe ends, and then screw the flexible
tap connectors to them (they aren't quite designed to be used
this way -- you need a couple of extra O-rings too).

--
Andrew Gabriel

You can easilly bend them slightly away from each other. It gets a lot
easier if you cut one of them slightly shorter than the other so that
the joints don't line up.
Better still would be to go and buy a pair of flexible tails instead
which are simplicity itself to fit.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

The mixer unit in question is ikea EDSVIK, but many other makes use a
similar design.

The tap unit fits over a single hole in the sink & two pipes about
250mm long are supplied which screw into the base of the tap unit via
a 12mm a/f nut/screw soldered on to the tube. The tubes flare out
half way down (away from the tap) into standard 15mm dia tube. The H
& C tubes almost touch over the whole length of 15mm section.

Q. How are you meant to make the connection to the H & C feeds
(standard 15mm Cu in the current kitchen)?

If you solder a 90deg bend on then you won't be able to tighten the
tube screwed end at the tap base, (or undo it at some later stage for
maintenance). [because turning one tube with bend will foul the other
tube & take it away from the direction of the water connection]

OTOH there isn't enough space between the tubes to fit a compression
fitting. Nor space to use a push fit connection.


puzzled!

many TIA for any clue

Screw them in tight and *then* bend them apart a bit - when you can quite
easily get pipe fittings on them.

Or, as others have said, discard them and use flexible tails (preferably
with built-in isolator valves) instead.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

wrote:
The mixer unit in question is ikea EDSVIK, but many other makes use a
similar design.

The tap unit fits over a single hole in the sink & two pipes about
250mm long are supplied which screw into the base of the tap unit via a
12mm a/f nut/screw soldered on to the tube. The tubes flare out half
way down (away from the tap) into standard 15mm dia tube. The H & C
tubes almost touch over the whole length of 15mm section.

Q. How are you meant to make the connection to the H & C feeds
(standard 15mm Cu in the current kitchen)?

If you solder a 90deg bend on then you won't be able to tighten the
tube screwed end at the tap base, (or undo it at some later stage for
maintenance). [because turning one tube with bend will foul the other
tube & take it away from the direction of the water connection]

OTOH there isn't enough space between the tubes to fit a compression
fitting. Nor space to use a push fit connection.


There is if you stagger the compression joints position and carefully
splay the pipes apart a bit.
I usually use in-line shutoff valves to connect to the feed pipes.

Don't be tempted to use flexy connectors if your sink is stainless steel
because the tap will be wobbley. They are ok if the sink is rigid.

In article ,
OldBill writes:

Don't be tempted to use flexy connectors if your sink is stainless steel
because the tap will be wobbley. They are ok if the sink is rigid.

I mounted the tap in the worktop behind the sink, for this reason.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
OldBill writes:

Don't be tempted to use flexy connectors if your sink is stainless steel
because the tap will be wobbley. They are ok if the sink is rigid.

I mounted the tap in the worktop behind the sink, for this reason.

--
Andrew Gabriel

many thanks to all who replied -solved the problem very neatly with the
flexible connectors recommeneded - discovered you need a matched air so
the screw/nuts at the tap end don't conflict.

Also found a tip on the sink maker Franke's web site - put a bracing
strap from the threaded stud across to the underside of the
worktop/unit housing.

Used a heavy duty holed strap about 120mm x 20mm x 4mm ex b&q which has
solved the rigidity problem.