I am about to be lumbered with attaching some IKEA wall cabinets to an
oldish, lath and plaster studwork wall.

I assume they will be supplied with adjustable corner fixings but also
assume these will not co-incide with convenient studs. My thought so far
is to attach a couple of rails and secure to them, closing the
consequent gap with matching trim strip.

However, there may be a better way?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
I am about to be lumbered with attaching some IKEA wall cabinets to an
oldish, lath and plaster studwork wall.

Do you mean units hanging from the wall just below the ceiling, or
floor standing units which you will fix to the wall at the rear?

If the first then IMHO you have considerable problems to overcome by
not fixing to a sound wall.

I assume they will be supplied with adjustable corner fixings but also
assume these will not co-incide with convenient studs.

Standard IKEA units of either type are bolted to the wall in the top
inside left & right corners of each unit by a semi-adjustable angle
bracket. Each bracket is bolted to the wall by 1 (usually 6mm) bolt or
fischer screw or similar and held to the side of each cabinet side by 2
small screws.

The mounting is finished off by covering by a slide/clip-on white
plastic cover. Suggest you go into an IKEA store and have a good look
at an assembled unit & ask to see under the white plastic covers.

IMHO a wish and a prayer holds the whole sheebang up. A whole lot
hangs on those small screws fixed into rather crumbly chipboard. I'm
fitting a wall rail (40x20 timber) underneath the back of unit on the
ones I'm currently installing on to a solid plastered wall. IMHO these
wall units need a *really* solid back wall which can take considerable
load.

Suppose, though, the strength needed depends on whether the missus's
crown derby is going into it.

HTH

In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
I am about to be lumbered with attaching some IKEA wall cabinets to an
oldish, lath and plaster studwork wall.

I assume they will be supplied with adjustable corner fixings but also
assume these will not co-incide with convenient studs. My thought so far
is to attach a couple of rails and secure to them, closing the
consequent gap with matching trim strip.

However, there may be a better way?

Hum, I like IKEA kitchen units myself, but this is an
example where I would look for someone else's. I would
look for some with a substantial piece of wood across
the back capable of supporting the cabinet, which you
could screw through where coincided with the studs.
IKEA Faktum carcusses don't have any such support across
the back.

If you do as you suggested, you could cover over the gap
by using the end panels for the floor standing cabinets
which are wider, and cut them down approproately. However,
they are IIRC exactly 70cm high, whereas the ones for 70cm
wall cabinets must be something like 76cm high so they line
up with the bottom of the Decor strip if fitted. There are
some taller floor standing cupboards and there might be
some taller end panels for them.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In article .com,
writes:
IMHO a wish and a prayer holds the whole sheebang up. A whole lot
hangs on those small screws fixed into rather crumbly chipboard. I'm

That was my thought when I first saw them, but I've put a lot of
them up in different kitchens since then, and none have ever failed.
That includes an over fridge/freezer cupboard which is supported the
same way, but is full depth of the base units and nowhere near as
high as the regular wall cupboards, considerably increasing the force
on the fixings, but it too is fine. Where you have two or more
cupboards in a row, you bolt them together at the front also.

fitting a wall rail (40x20 timber) underneath the back of unit on the
ones I'm currently installing on to a solid plastered wall. IMHO these
wall units need a *really* solid back wall which can take considerable
load.

One of mine went on a stud wall recently, and I built the stud wall
so it had the studs in exactly the right places to support the cupboard.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In message .com,
writes


Tim Lamb wrote:
I am about to be lumbered with attaching some IKEA wall cabinets to an
oldish, lath and plaster studwork wall.

Do you mean units hanging from the wall just below the ceiling, or
floor standing units which you will fix to the wall at the rear?

This is Edwardian so the ceiling is wa-ay up there! Wall hanging but I
can put a support underneath.

If the first then IMHO you have considerable problems to overcome by
not fixing to a sound wall.

I assume they will be supplied with adjustable corner fixings but also
assume these will not co-incide with convenient studs.

Standard IKEA units of either type are bolted to the wall in the top
inside left & right corners of each unit by a semi-adjustable angle
bracket. Each bracket is bolted to the wall by 1 (usually 6mm) bolt or
fischer screw or similar and held to the side of each cabinet side by 2
small screws.

Ah! Suppose I put a 20mm x 50mm strip of hardwood across at bracket
height could I attach the bolt through that?

The mounting is finished off by covering by a slide/clip-on white
plastic cover. Suggest you go into an IKEA store and have a good look
at an assembled unit & ask to see under the white plastic covers.

Yes but... daughter is purchasing and having delivered. Dad is expected
to arrive on site equipped for every possible variation. I am trying to
anticipate the most obvious problems. Driving into London to IKEA is not
very attractive when I am trying to get the silaging done:-)

IMHO a wish and a prayer holds the whole sheebang up. A whole lot
hangs on those small screws fixed into rather crumbly chipboard. I'm
fitting a wall rail (40x20 timber) underneath the back of unit on the
ones I'm currently installing on to a solid plastered wall. IMHO these
wall units need a *really* solid back wall which can take considerable
load.

Suppose, though, the strength needed depends on whether the missus's
crown derby is going into it.

HTH

Yes. Ta.

regards


--
Tim Lamb

In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
I am about to be lumbered with attaching some IKEA wall cabinets to an
oldish, lath and plaster studwork wall.

I assume they will be supplied with adjustable corner fixings but also
assume these will not co-incide with convenient studs. My thought so far
is to attach a couple of rails and secure to them, closing the
consequent gap with matching trim strip.

However, there may be a better way?

Hum, I like IKEA kitchen units myself, but this is an
example where I would look for someone else's. I would
look for some with a substantial piece of wood across
the back capable of supporting the cabinet, which you
could screw through where coincided with the studs.
IKEA Faktum carcusses don't have any such support across
the back.

If you do as you suggested, you could cover over the gap
by using the end panels for the floor standing cabinets
which are wider, and cut them down approproately. However,
they are IIRC exactly 70cm high, whereas the ones for 70cm
wall cabinets must be something like 76cm high so they line
up with the bottom of the Decor strip if fitted. There are
some taller floor standing cupboards and there might be
some taller end panels for them.

Hmm.. It sounds as though it needs a rail across the back, underneath,
to carry most of the weight and then a second rail to span the studs for
the top fixing. I can use plasterboard toggles to give some additional
support if the unit corners are mid-way between studs.

I can see there will be a follow up job to fit a matching trim strip to
cover the gap at the sides.

regards


--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
Hmm.. It sounds as though it needs a rail across the back, underneath,
to carry most of the weight and then a second rail to span the studs for
the top fixing.

That gives me an idea. You could use a piece of 35x50mm timber
across the back, fixed to the mounting brackets on the inside,
so it doesn't protrude behind the cupboard. Screw through this
to the studs.

Another option would be to actually cut away a strip of
the lath and plaster level with the mounting holes (probably
2-3 laths worth) and replace it with a strip of timber
screwed directly to the studs. Arrange the timber to be
about the same thickness as the lath and plaster. Then screw
the cupboard into this timber strip. Some making good of the
plasterwork might be necessary, but this would be hidden
behind the cupboards.

I can use plasterboard toggles to give some additional
support if the unit corners are mid-way between studs.

I wouldn't bother. Won't stop the cupboard falling down
(nor ever support the weight during fixing up), but would
make a serious mess of the wall if a cupboard did fall
down.

I can see there will be a follow up job to fit a matching trim strip to
cover the gap at the sides.

I think any such gap can be avoided.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
Hmm.. It sounds as though it needs a rail across the back, underneath,
to carry most of the weight and then a second rail to span the studs for
the top fixing.

That gives me an idea. You could use a piece of 35x50mm timber
across the back, fixed to the mounting brackets on the inside,
so it doesn't protrude behind the cupboard. Screw through this
to the studs.

that seems the one logical anwer to me, though I dont know that you'd
need to use the supplied fixings for it. Simply a wood rail under the
top internally, full width, one under the bottom, and if the wall's
iffy even a third under the middle shelf.

Seen it done this way with very heavy loading, onto a solid wall, and
no prob. The wood strips support the load bearing shelves directly,
helping keep them straight over time.


NT

In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
Hmm.. It sounds as though it needs a rail across the back, underneath,
to carry most of the weight and then a second rail to span the studs for
the top fixing.

That gives me an idea. You could use a piece of 35x50mm timber
across the back, fixed to the mounting brackets on the inside,
so it doesn't protrude behind the cupboard. Screw through this
to the studs.

Er. Won't there be a backing sheet?

Another option would be to actually cut away a strip of
the lath and plaster level with the mounting holes (probably
2-3 laths worth) and replace it with a strip of timber
screwed directly to the studs. Arrange the timber to be
about the same thickness as the lath and plaster. Then screw
the cupboard into this timber strip. Some making good of the
plasterwork might be necessary, but this would be hidden
behind the cupboards.

That sounds rather professional:-)

I can use plasterboard toggles to give some additional
support if the unit corners are mid-way between studs.

I wouldn't bother. Won't stop the cupboard falling down
(nor ever support the weight during fixing up), but would
make a serious mess of the wall if a cupboard did fall
down.

Oh.

I can see there will be a follow up job to fit a matching trim strip to
cover the gap at the sides.

I think any such gap can be avoided.

This is developing into a two trip job: fit the replacement base unit
doors, assemble the hanging cupboards and plan the fixing. Back next day
with the bits needed to do the job:-(

regards


--
Tim Lamb

In message .com,
writes
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
Hmm.. It sounds as though it needs a rail across the back, underneath,
to carry most of the weight and then a second rail to span the studs for
the top fixing.

That gives me an idea. You could use a piece of 35x50mm timber
across the back, fixed to the mounting brackets on the inside,
so it doesn't protrude behind the cupboard. Screw through this
to the studs.

that seems the one logical anwer to me, though I dont know that you'd
need to use the supplied fixings for it. Simply a wood rail under the
top internally, full width, one under the bottom, and if the wall's
iffy even a third under the middle shelf.

Seen it done this way with very heavy loading, onto a solid wall, and
no prob. The wood strips support the load bearing shelves directly,
helping keep them straight over time.

Right. I think I am going to have to eyeball the job before deciding but
it is very helpful to have some alternative strategies.

I'm told that it is a pair of cupboards separated by a plate rack.

regards


NT


--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes
In article ,
Tim Lamb writes:
Hmm.. It sounds as though it needs a rail across the back, underneath,
to carry most of the weight and then a second rail to span the studs for
the top fixing.

That gives me an idea. You could use a piece of 35x50mm timber
across the back, fixed to the mounting brackets on the inside,
so it doesn't protrude behind the cupboard. Screw through this
to the studs.

Er. Won't there be a backing sheet?

Yes. You would have to put that on after fixing the 35x50mm
timber to the brackets. It's only a sheet of hardboard, but
it gives the cupboard rigidity against trapezoid deformation.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Tim Lamb wrote:

I am about to be lumbered with attaching some IKEA wall cabinets to an
oldish, lath and plaster studwork wall.

I assume they will be supplied with adjustable corner fixings but also
assume these will not co-incide with convenient studs. My thought so far
is to attach a couple of rails and secure to them, closing the
consequent gap with matching trim strip.

However, there may be a better way?

My favorite way on UK style cabinets, which have a 12mm or so gap
between the backing cardboard - or hardboard - and the wall, is to cut
an MDF plate or strip that the top of the cuboard can hang from and
possibly another at the cupboard base, attach this firmly to the wall
using screws to studs, or even no more nails or car body filler ;-) and
then those white plastic blocks to attach the sides and top of the
cabinet to the MDF (or ply or chipboard)

Most of the weight is taken on the top of the cupboard where it rests on
the plate.

If uypou til up to thee cupboard from the worktop, that also tends to
lock it in place and andd support.

Other techniques include simply mashing away the plasterboard behind and
putting in noggins. Don't even bother to make good ..just tack some
plasterboard over the hole to be more or less level with the surrounding.

I've had some sucess with a hole about an inch in diameter, followed by
stuffed newspares to stop it dripping, and use of plaster, cement or car
body filler to make your own plasterboard fixing device with decent load
spreading.

But I prefer to mount in some way off thee studs.#

When you live in a studwork house, you end up with a few bits of
plasterboard, polyskim, and clouts as a matter of course for any job
that requres wall mounting of anything...






regards

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

I can see there will be a follow up job to fit a matching trim strip to
cover the gap at the sides.


I think any such gap can be avoided.


Decorators caulk is your friend here.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
My favorite way on UK style cabinets, which have a 12mm or so gap
between the backing cardboard - or hardboard - and the wall,

IKEA cupboards don't (except the ones to go over fridge/freezers
which have a ~2" gap for ventilation).

Most of the weight is taken on the top of the cupboard where it rests on
the plate.

Not sure the fixings between tops and sides of the cupboards
are designed to take full weight of a cupboard and its contents.
As designed, the weight is taken by the side panels, which is
why I suggested fixing the support to the brackets which are
intended to take the weight. If a bottom support rail is added,
then using the top of the cupboard would be OK as it wouldn't
be taking all the weight.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In article ,
says...
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
My favorite way on UK style cabinets, which have a 12mm or so gap
between the backing cardboard - or hardboard - and the wall,

IKEA cupboards don't (except the ones to go over fridge/freezers
which have a ~2" gap for ventilation).

Most of the weight is taken on the top of the cupboard where it rests on
the plate.

Not sure the fixings between tops and sides of the cupboards
are designed to take full weight of a cupboard and its contents.
As designed, the weight is taken by the side panels, which is
why I suggested fixing the support to the brackets which are
intended to take the weight. If a bottom support rail is added,
then using the top of the cupboard would be OK as it wouldn't
be taking all the weight.


If you mean these

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...85096&id=19951

with their assosciated wall plate they are plenty strong especially if
the top of the cabinet is run into the side panel and not vice versa.

They've coped in swmbos kitchen for nigh on 15 years and we use them
commercially for office storage as they make hanging and levelling the
cupboards a doddle

--
Paul Mc Cann