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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Detergents and cleaners FAQ
I've mostly written a cleaning FAQ, explaining the different types of
detergents and other types of cleaners. I've been wondering if its quite DIY or not, and have reached a tentative conclusion. First, its prime use would be household cleaning, ie not diy. Second, cleaning is actually an important part of DIY, so it would in fact be useful and relevant for DIY as well. OK, time to post it and see what people think.... Detergents and Cleaners FAQ --------------------------- Detergents and soaps -------------------- Cheapo washing up liquid: probably the fastest detergent, but the least powerful. Removes most things, very quickly. 15p/litre. It is simply liquid soap. Dries skin. Will wash clothes in 2 minutes in cold water, but can not remove everything, so not recommended for continued use. Liquid soaps: Most goods sold as liquid soaps are not, they are in nearly every case sodium lauryl ethyl sulphate, aka sodium laureth sulphate, a synthetic detergent. This is a nearly universal low cost human cleaning detergent. It is mildly irritant, mildly skin drying, very cheap to make, and although not currently receiving much publicity, there have been concerns about its safety. Nearly all commercial skin washes and shampoos contain it, regardless of price, brand, marketing, etc. Quality washing up liquid: much better on skin than the cheapie stuff, remove more types of dirt. But not as fast acting as the low cost soap type. Ecover washing up liquid: much better on skin than other washing liquids. Can strip some household paints. Non toxic. Can also be used as body wash and shampoo: mix a very little oil in for drier skin and hair. Washing powder: more powerful than washing liquids, effective degreasing with hot water. More drying and irritant to skin than any washing up liquid. Biological powders also contain enzymes to improve their cleaning action at 40C, but the enzymes stop working at hotter temps. Most contain various additives such as optical brighteners etc, and powdered cardboard filler. Washing powder tablets: take time to dissolve, thus give less cleaning time than powders. Also some brands fail to dissolve, causing poor washes and clothes with a residue of washing powder, which irritates skin. Dishwasher detergent: most powerful detergent, requires hot water to work, the most irritant to skin. skin contact best avoided. Wonder / miracle / magic cleaners / stain removers: ordinary detergents sold at steep prices. Solvents -------- Many solvents are volatile, flammable, explosive, toxic and/or drug-like. Ensure good ventilation. - white spirit: very irritant to skin, very slow to evaporate. Dissolves un-set oil based (gloss) paints. Not very versatile. - 1,1,1 trichloroethylene: aka spot dry cleaner, tippex thinner. One of the higher cost solvents. Adequate ventilation essential. Never place dry cleaned goods in a closed car. - alcohol: degreaser. Aka surgical spirit, rubbing alcohol, methylated spirits. - Isopropyl alcohol: aka isopropanl. almost identical properties to alcohol. Screen wash, head cleaner. - paraffin: very slow to evaporate, repels insects. Dissolves oils. - diesel: - acetone, aka nail varnish remover: - cellulose thinners: a powerful mix of solvents - Nitromethane: aka cyanoacrylate debonder, dissolves superglue - nitromors: stong alkali? paint and varnish stripper - turpentine and turps substitute: gloss/eggshell/oil paint solvents - petrol - orange solvent (?) aka sticky stuff remover (?) - is this orange oil? - glo-fuel for model aircraft: various mixtures exist, contain methanol and oils, toxic and explosive. - carbon tetrachloride: powerful general purpose solvent, narcotic, now banned from domestic use due to toxicity. Oils ---- - Olbas oil: a solvent plant oil mixture. removes ballpoint ink, paint, varnish, wax. - clove oil: strips paint, irritant, use diluted - penetrating oil: oil and solvent mix, sometimes frees rusted parts, dissolves oils, dissolves bath grease, leaves oil film behind. - WD40: a penetrating oil mix, also repels water. Abrasives --------- - scouring pads - Ajax: abrasive powder and bleach, once popular as toilet cleaner - bath brick: strong abrasive suited only to unfinished cast iron - sand: ditto. Also blasted for paint and rust stripping - melamine sponge, aka flash cleaning block: - wire wool pads: suited only to unfinished cast iron, damages all modern surfaces and finishes. Effective rust remover for cutlery, but will scratch and mark the metal. Causes metal splinters. - scrapers and razor blades: simple mechanical cleaners mostly used on glass. Can permanently mark the glass. Do not use on toughened glass. - brass wire brush: for cleaning suede and soiled clothes. Causes damage, dont overdo it. - steel wire brush: not for general household use. Will remove paint, plaster, skin, soft mortar. A rotary wire brush in a drill is very fast: in an angle grinder even more so. Bleaches: --------- Bleaches sterilise and remove the dirt's colour, but don't remove the dirt. Chlorine bleach: the most common household bleach. Irritant to lungs, exacerbates asthma. Contact with acids releases toxic chlorine gas. Discolours and damages many fabrics. A mild environmental toxin. Kills bacteria and moulds. Thick bleach is not a stronger bleach mix, it is bleach plus detergent. Oxygen bleach: aka hydrogen peroxide, avoids the downsides of chlorine bleaches, and does not discolour fabrics. Oxygen bleach can be used in laundry. Soap and sun: soaping clothes and hanging them in sunlight while wet can bleach marks and discolouration not removed by Cl2 or O2 bleaches. It is a slower process, taking many hours. The clothes should be kept wet or damp. Spray and wipe cleaners: ------------------------ Quick and easy hard surface cleaners. Produce noxious fumes. What is in them, ammonia? Limescale removers: (from weakest to strongest) ------------------- Citric acid: weak limescale remover. Requires boiling and long immersion time. Only effective on thin layers of scale. Available from any chemist. Vinegar: good for minor descaling of hot taps. Restores shine. Heat the tap first. Sulphamic acid: most popular ingredient in limescale removing toilet cleaners Sulphuric acid: stronger but costs more Phosphoric acid: toxic Hydrochloris acid: powerful and fast, avoid contact with skin, eyes, metal, mortars, lime paints and tile grout. ?: where does phosphoric acid belong in this strength ranking? Specialist cleaners ------------------- - wax based paint cleaners etc - Brick acid: aka patio cleaner. HCl acid cleaner/etcher for concrete and brick. Eats concrete and mortar, damages brick fireskin, excellant toilet limescale remover, dangerous to skin and eyes. - oxalic acid, also sold as patio cleaner: non-etching concrete and brick cleaner. Toxic. Less powerful than the acid type, but non-damaging. - fuller's earth: dry powder sometimes used to clean very delicate items such as baby animal skin gloves. It is a dry absorbent. Some brands of cat litter are fuller's earth. - vinegar: resurfaces copper, it etches the surface off, leaving fresh clean copper. The liquid runoff is toxic if eaten. Diluted vinegar is also an old favourite for cleaning glass, often applied with paper rather than cloth. - stain devils for ballpoint ink: I had no result with it at all. Olbas oil worked very well. - saliva: still the best cleaner for fine art oil paintings Alkalis ------- The stronger alkalis can cause serious eye injury. The damage takes time to occur, so may not prompt a person to seek medical assistance. In the worst cases blindness can result. Use eye protection. - caustic soda: cleans ovens. Toxic, irritant, can cause serious eye injury. - washing soda: degreases when used with boiling water. For clothes and drain unblocking. The majority of drain blockages are mostly solidified fat. - sodium bicarbonate, aka baking soda - a mild safe alkali, with many uses: For brushing teeth Removes tea and coffee stains Reduces laundry odour: add to final rinse Removes black scuff marks from floors Cleans fibreglass baths Freshens sour dishcloths: soak in water and bicarb Deodorises laundry awaiting washing: sprinkle in the basket. Removes crayon marks: use a brush and soda paste. Water cleaners: --------------- Pressure washers: The pressure of these can be enough to go through skin. Effective on very hardy materials eg concrete or brick paths. Can damage brickwork when used repeatedly. Can remove paint in some cases. Good for cleaning undersides of cars etc, as long as excessive pressure is not used. The one caveat is that water on brake pads makes them not work. (I once got water on all 4 at once: thankfully I never got out of the car park!) Pressure washer FAQ link. Steam cleaners: Effective at removing some types of dirt, ineffective for many as well. Useful for some jobs, but not for general purpose cleaning. Heat damages some materials, minor risk of burn injuries. More information: ----------------- Mrs Beeton: possibly the most famous writer on this subject, she produced a series of household guidance books a century ago, which include a thorough section on cleaning materials and methods. Available in any second hand book store. The materials discussed in the book are mostly out of date, but there is lots of useful stain removal information, and lots of cooking recipes. Remaining Questions: -------------------- What are the many things missing from here? More info on some of the solvents would be welcome Where does cream cleaner fit into this list? Where does phosphoric acid fit in the strength list? Can pressure washers be used to dig holes in the ground? |
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