I've mostly written a cleaning FAQ, explaining the different types of
detergents and other types of cleaners. I've been wondering if its
quite DIY or not, and have reached a tentative conclusion.

First, its prime use would be household cleaning, ie not diy.
Second, cleaning is actually an important part of DIY, so it would in
fact be useful and relevant for DIY as well.

OK, time to post it and see what people think....




Detergents and Cleaners FAQ
---------------------------



Detergents and soaps
--------------------


Cheapo washing up liquid: probably the fastest detergent, but the least
powerful. Removes most things, very quickly. 15p/litre. It is simply
liquid soap. Dries skin.
Will wash clothes in 2 minutes in cold water, but can not remove
everything, so not recommended for continued use.

Liquid soaps: Most goods sold as liquid soaps are not, they are in
nearly every case sodium lauryl ethyl sulphate, aka sodium laureth
sulphate, a synthetic detergent. This is a nearly universal low cost
human cleaning detergent. It is mildly irritant, mildly skin drying,
very cheap to make, and although not currently receiving much
publicity, there have been concerns about its safety. Nearly all
commercial skin washes and shampoos contain it, regardless of price,
brand, marketing, etc.

Quality washing up liquid: much better on skin than the cheapie stuff,
remove more types of dirt. But not as fast acting as the low cost soap
type.

Ecover washing up liquid: much better on skin than other washing
liquids. Can strip some household paints. Non toxic. Can also be used
as body wash and shampoo: mix a very little oil in for drier skin and
hair.

Washing powder: more powerful than washing liquids, effective
degreasing with hot water. More drying and irritant to skin than any
washing up liquid. Biological powders also contain enzymes to improve
their cleaning action at 40C, but the enzymes stop working at hotter
temps. Most contain various additives such as optical brighteners etc,
and powdered cardboard filler.

Washing powder tablets: take time to dissolve, thus give less cleaning
time than powders. Also some brands fail to dissolve, causing poor
washes and clothes with a residue of washing powder, which irritates
skin.

Dishwasher detergent: most powerful detergent, requires hot water to
work, the most irritant to skin. skin contact best avoided.

Wonder / miracle / magic cleaners / stain removers: ordinary detergents
sold at steep prices.



Solvents
--------

Many solvents are volatile, flammable, explosive, toxic and/or
drug-like. Ensure good ventilation.

- white spirit: very irritant to skin, very slow to evaporate.
Dissolves un-set oil based (gloss) paints. Not very versatile.

- 1,1,1 trichloroethylene: aka spot dry cleaner, tippex thinner. One of
the higher cost solvents. Adequate ventilation essential. Never place
dry cleaned goods in a closed car.

- alcohol: degreaser. Aka surgical spirit, rubbing alcohol, methylated
spirits.

- Isopropyl alcohol: aka isopropanl. almost identical properties to
alcohol. Screen wash, head cleaner.

- paraffin: very slow to evaporate, repels insects. Dissolves oils.

- diesel:

- acetone, aka nail varnish remover:

- cellulose thinners: a powerful mix of solvents

- Nitromethane: aka cyanoacrylate debonder, dissolves superglue

- nitromors: stong alkali? paint and varnish stripper

- turpentine and turps substitute: gloss/eggshell/oil paint solvents

- petrol

- orange solvent (?) aka sticky stuff remover (?) - is this orange oil?

- glo-fuel for model aircraft: various mixtures exist, contain methanol
and oils, toxic and explosive.

- carbon tetrachloride: powerful general purpose solvent, narcotic, now
banned from domestic use due to toxicity.



Oils
----

- Olbas oil: a solvent plant oil mixture. removes ballpoint ink, paint,
varnish, wax.

- clove oil: strips paint, irritant, use diluted

- penetrating oil: oil and solvent mix, sometimes frees rusted parts,
dissolves oils, dissolves bath grease, leaves oil film behind.

- WD40: a penetrating oil mix, also repels water.



Abrasives
---------

- scouring pads

- Ajax: abrasive powder and bleach, once popular as toilet cleaner

- bath brick: strong abrasive suited only to unfinished cast iron

- sand: ditto. Also blasted for paint and rust stripping

- melamine sponge, aka flash cleaning block:

- wire wool pads: suited only to unfinished cast iron, damages all
modern surfaces and finishes. Effective rust remover for cutlery, but
will scratch and mark the metal. Causes metal splinters.

- scrapers and razor blades: simple mechanical cleaners mostly used on
glass. Can permanently mark the glass. Do not use on toughened glass.

- brass wire brush: for cleaning suede and soiled clothes. Causes
damage, dont overdo it.

- steel wire brush: not for general household use. Will remove paint,
plaster, skin, soft mortar. A rotary wire brush in a drill is very
fast: in an angle grinder even more so.



Bleaches:
---------

Bleaches sterilise and remove the dirt's colour, but don't remove the
dirt.

Chlorine bleach: the most common household bleach. Irritant to lungs,
exacerbates asthma. Contact with acids releases toxic chlorine gas.
Discolours and damages many fabrics. A mild environmental toxin. Kills
bacteria and moulds. Thick bleach is not a stronger bleach mix, it is
bleach plus detergent.

Oxygen bleach: aka hydrogen peroxide, avoids the downsides of chlorine
bleaches, and does not discolour fabrics. Oxygen bleach can be used in
laundry.

Soap and sun: soaping clothes and hanging them in sunlight while wet
can bleach marks and discolouration not removed by Cl2 or O2 bleaches.
It is a slower process, taking many hours. The clothes should be kept
wet or damp.



Spray and wipe cleaners:
------------------------

Quick and easy hard surface cleaners. Produce noxious fumes. What is in
them, ammonia?



Limescale removers: (from weakest to strongest)
-------------------

Citric acid: weak limescale remover. Requires boiling and long
immersion time. Only effective on thin layers of scale. Available from
any chemist.

Vinegar: good for minor descaling of hot taps. Restores shine. Heat the
tap first.

Sulphamic acid: most popular ingredient in limescale removing toilet
cleaners

Sulphuric acid: stronger but costs more

Phosphoric acid: toxic

Hydrochloris acid: powerful and fast, avoid contact with skin, eyes,
metal, mortars, lime paints and tile grout.

?: where does phosphoric acid belong in this strength ranking?



Specialist cleaners
-------------------

- wax based paint cleaners etc

- Brick acid: aka patio cleaner. HCl acid cleaner/etcher for concrete
and brick. Eats concrete and mortar, damages brick fireskin, excellant
toilet limescale remover, dangerous to skin and eyes.

- oxalic acid, also sold as patio cleaner: non-etching concrete and
brick cleaner. Toxic. Less powerful than the acid type, but
non-damaging.

- fuller's earth: dry powder sometimes used to clean very delicate
items such as baby animal skin gloves. It is a dry absorbent. Some
brands of cat litter are fuller's earth.

- vinegar: resurfaces copper, it etches the surface off, leaving fresh
clean copper. The liquid runoff is toxic if eaten. Diluted vinegar is
also an old favourite for cleaning glass, often applied with paper
rather than cloth.

- stain devils for ballpoint ink: I had no result with it at all. Olbas
oil worked very well.

- saliva: still the best cleaner for fine art oil paintings



Alkalis
-------

The stronger alkalis can cause serious eye injury. The damage takes
time to occur, so may not prompt a person to seek medical assistance.
In the worst cases blindness can result. Use eye protection.

- caustic soda: cleans ovens. Toxic, irritant, can cause serious eye
injury.

- washing soda: degreases when used with boiling water. For clothes and
drain unblocking. The majority of drain blockages are mostly solidified
fat.

- sodium bicarbonate, aka baking soda - a mild safe alkali, with many
uses:
For brushing teeth
Removes tea and coffee stains
Reduces laundry odour: add to final rinse
Removes black scuff marks from floors
Cleans fibreglass baths
Freshens sour dishcloths: soak in water and bicarb
Deodorises laundry awaiting washing: sprinkle in the basket.
Removes crayon marks: use a brush and soda paste.



Water cleaners:
---------------

Pressure washers: The pressure of these can be enough to go through
skin.
Effective on very hardy materials eg concrete or brick paths. Can
damage brickwork when used repeatedly. Can remove paint in some cases.
Good for cleaning undersides of cars etc, as long as excessive pressure
is not used. The one caveat is that water on brake pads makes them not
work. (I once got water on all 4 at once: thankfully I never got out of
the car park!)
Pressure washer FAQ link.

Steam cleaners: Effective at removing some types of dirt, ineffective
for many as well. Useful for some jobs, but not for general purpose
cleaning. Heat damages some materials, minor risk of burn injuries.



More information:
-----------------

Mrs Beeton: possibly the most famous writer on this subject, she
produced a series of household guidance books a century ago, which
include a thorough section on cleaning materials and methods. Available
in any second hand book store. The materials discussed in the book are
mostly out of date, but there is lots of useful stain removal
information, and lots of cooking recipes.




Remaining Questions:
--------------------
What are the many things missing from here?
More info on some of the solvents would be welcome
Where does cream cleaner fit into this list?
Where does phosphoric acid fit in the strength list?
Can pressure washers be used to dig holes in the ground?