In article . com,
writes:
I've mostly written a cleaning FAQ, explaining the different types of
detergents and other types of cleaners. I've been wondering if its
quite DIY or not, and have reached a tentative conclusion.

First, its prime use would be household cleaning, ie not diy.
Second, cleaning is actually an important part of DIY, so it would in
fact be useful and relevant for DIY as well.

OK, time to post it and see what people think....

Thanks. I've got to pop out shortly and can't do it justice,
but here are a few initial comments inline.

Detergents and Cleaners FAQ
---------------------------

How about "Cleaners and Solvents FAQ"? (Detergents are cleaners)

Detergents and soaps
--------------------

This section could do with explaining surfactants, and then
go on to the difference between soaps and detergents.

Cheapo washing up liquid: probably the fastest detergent, but the least
powerful. Removes most things, very quickly. 15p/litre. It is simply
liquid soap. Dries skin.

I don't think I've ever seen a soap-based washing up liquid, but
maybe that's because I don't buy cheapo ones. Probably wouldn't
work very well in hard water on shiny or glassware items.

Washing powder: more powerful than washing liquids, effective
degreasing with hot water. More drying and irritant to skin than any
washing up liquid. Biological powders also contain enzymes to improve
their cleaning action at 40C, but the enzymes stop working at hotter
temps. Most contain various additives such as optical brighteners etc,
and powdered cardboard filler.

Washing powder tablets: take time to dissolve, thus give less cleaning
time than powders. Also some brands fail to dissolve, causing poor
washes and clothes with a residue of washing powder, which irritates
skin.

Dishwasher detergent: most powerful detergent, requires hot water to
work, the most irritant to skin. skin contact best avoided.

Alkali based -- can dissolve amphoteric metals such as aluminium.

Could also mention that both washing powder and dishwasher detergent
are good at removing organic based stains in other situations, like
tea stains and grease from stainless steel sinks, and **** from the bog
as mentioned in another thread.

Solvents
--------

Many solvents are volatile, flammable, explosive, toxic and/or
drug-like. Ensure good ventilation.

- white spirit: very irritant to skin, very slow to evaporate.
Dissolves un-set oil based (gloss) paints. Not very versatile.

Evaporates leaving no residue (important in some situations).

- 1,1,1 trichloroethylene: aka spot dry cleaner, tippex thinner. One of
the higher cost solvents. Adequate ventilation essential. Never place
dry cleaned goods in a closed car.

I think CoSH has effectively removed all products containing
this from the market now. (Tippex thinner hasn't been 1-1-1
trichloroethylene for very many years now.)

- alcohol: degreaser. Aka surgical spirit, rubbing alcohol, methylated
spirits.

Meths does leave a residue (the purple dye, whose name I forget).

Oils
----

- WD40: a penetrating oil mix, also repels water.

Also a good solvent.


Will carry on reading the rest this evening.
--
Andrew Gabriel