The machine is a B&S 000 horizontal mill.
The cutters I have all have keyways. The one arbor I have (which appears to
be factory made) has no keyway. None of the spacers I have, at least some of
which are factory made, have keyways.
Thus all that keeps the cutter from slipping is side pressure of the spacers
from the end nut. This is not enough to hold.(2"X 1/8" slitting saw, 7/8"
arbor) The 4' diameter cutters I have will surely spin. Should there be
plate washers larger than the spacers on either side of the cutter like on a
table saw blade? or should everything be keyed. As I say the arbor isn't
keyed and come to think of it, another arbor that came with the machine but
won't fit isn't keyed either.

Should the tool rotation be in the direction to tighten the end nut? That
might help, but it limits the versatility of the machine.
Any basic set up advice is welcome.

John

In article ,
John Hall wrote:
The machine is a B&S 000 horizontal mill.
The cutters I have all have keyways. The one arbor I have (which appears to
be factory made) has no keyway. None of the spacers I have, at least some of
which are factory made, have keyways.

Interesting. Most of my arbors (for a Nichols mill with a 40
taper spindle) have keys, along with the spacers.

Thus all that keeps the cutter from slipping is side pressure of the spacers
from the end nut. This is not enough to hold.(2"X 1/8" slitting saw, 7/8"
arbor) The 4' diameter cutters I have will surely spin.

Yes -- I should think so -- if you can *mount* them. Where did
you find any four *foot* diameter cutters? (Or did you mean to say
"four inch" diameter?)

Should there be
plate washers larger than the spacers on either side of the cutter like on a
table saw blade? or should everything be keyed. As I say the arbor isn't
keyed and come to think of it, another arbor that came with the machine but
won't fit isn't keyed either.

It depends on the workpiece material in my mind. I would
probably do brass with an unkeyed 2"x1/8" cutter on a 7/8" arbor. For
4" I would suggest a 1" arbor (or larger) instead. (What is the spindle
taper on this machine? Can it *drive* a 1" arbor or larger?)

If both of your arbors are 7/8", it may simply be that they
were intended for light duty (e.g. 1/32" slitting saws or 1/8" in brass.)
I have one keyless arbor, with four 1/32" slitting saws to put
screwdriver slots in the heads of some brass screws. For anything
heavier duty, I would use one of my keyed arbors.

The very factor that your slitting saw comes with keys suggests
that the maker intended to have keys used with it.

Should the tool rotation be in the direction to tighten the end nut? That
might help, but it limits the versatility of the machine.

If the rotation is such as to *loosen* the nut, I would *insist*
on keys. I would first look for a 1" arbor with keys, and matching
spacers. Mount on that a milling cutter the proper width to cut the
needed keyway for a 7/8" arbor. (1" uses 1/4" keyways, IIRC. I'm not
sure what the 7/8" uses -- measure your slitting saw to determine.

Once you have the keyway cut on your 7/8" arbor, then go to the
arbor press with an appropriate keyway broach and your spacers, and cut
keyways in those, too. (If you have one too long to cut with your
broach set, use that purely for a spacer, and use a shorter key in the
working area of the arbor.

Good Luck,
DoN.

BTW Are you cleaning any oil off of the spacers and the saw before
mounting it? That might make a bit of a difference for the
smaller saws, at least.



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Its a B&S #9 arbor. My 4 _inch_ cutters have one inch bores and I intend to
make a new arbor for them. I can run a key way in it. I'll have to scare up
a shop to broach a pair of spacers.

John
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
In article ,
John Hall wrote:
The machine is a B&S 000 horizontal mill.
The cutters I have all have keyways. The one arbor I have (which appears
to
be factory made) has no keyway. None of the spacers I have, at least some
of
which are factory made, have keyways.

Interesting. Most of my arbors (for a Nichols mill with a 40
taper spindle) have keys, along with the spacers.

Thus all that keeps the cutter from slipping is side pressure of the
spacers
from the end nut. This is not enough to hold.(2"X 1/8" slitting saw, 7/8"
arbor) The 4' diameter cutters I have will surely spin.

Yes -- I should think so -- if you can *mount* them. Where did
you find any four *foot* diameter cutters? (Or did you mean to say
"four inch" diameter?)

Should there be
plate washers larger than the spacers on either side of the cutter like on
a
table saw blade? or should everything be keyed. As I say the arbor isn't
keyed and come to think of it, another arbor that came with the machine
but
won't fit isn't keyed either.

It depends on the workpiece material in my mind. I would
probably do brass with an unkeyed 2"x1/8" cutter on a 7/8" arbor. For
4" I would suggest a 1" arbor (or larger) instead. (What is the spindle
taper on this machine? Can it *drive* a 1" arbor or larger?)

If both of your arbors are 7/8", it may simply be that they
were intended for light duty (e.g. 1/32" slitting saws or 1/8" in brass.)
I have one keyless arbor, with four 1/32" slitting saws to put
screwdriver slots in the heads of some brass screws. For anything
heavier duty, I would use one of my keyed arbors.

The very factor that your slitting saw comes with keys suggests
that the maker intended to have keys used with it.

Should the tool rotation be in the direction to tighten the end nut? That
might help, but it limits the versatility of the machine.

If the rotation is such as to *loosen* the nut, I would *insist*
on keys. I would first look for a 1" arbor with keys, and matching
spacers. Mount on that a milling cutter the proper width to cut the
needed keyway for a 7/8" arbor. (1" uses 1/4" keyways, IIRC. I'm not
sure what the 7/8" uses -- measure your slitting saw to determine.

Once you have the keyway cut on your 7/8" arbor, then go to the
arbor press with an appropriate keyway broach and your spacers, and cut
keyways in those, too. (If you have one too long to cut with your
broach set, use that purely for a spacer, and use a shorter key in the
working area of the arbor.

Good Luck,
DoN.

BTW Are you cleaning any oil off of the spacers and the saw before
mounting it? That might make a bit of a difference for the
smaller saws, at least.



--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"John Hall" wrote in message
news
The machine is a B&S 000 horizontal mill.

Thus all that keeps the cutter from slipping is side pressure of the
spacers
from the end nut. This is not enough to hold.(2"X 1/8" slitting saw, 7/8"
arbor) The 4' diameter cutters I have will surely spin.

I assume you meant 4 inches rather than 4 feet.

Should there be
plate washers larger than the spacers on either side of the cutter like on
a
table saw blade? or should everything be keyed. As I say the arbor isn't
keyed and come to think of it, another arbor that came with the machine
but
won't fit isn't keyed either.

I don't see the problem. I have a 1" arbor on my #4 Burke horizontal mill.
I routinely use sltting saws and all kinds of cutters, some up to 6" in
diameter and as much as 3" wide. Never have a slipping problem. Don't use
washer plates as you suggest. The spacers, which are 1.5 and 1.625 " in
diameter, giving a 1/4 and a 5/16 inch holding surface. Quite adequate. No
slip. However, do not use ordinary washers. Use hardened milling machine
arbor spacers. Also be sure to check the edges for nicks and stone those
off if there are any. You should have no holding problem.

Should the tool rotation be in the direction to tighten the end nut?

Doesn't make a difference on my mill. I use either way.

Boris

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