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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Tank construction questions.
Greetings all,
I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate. The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year. The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have lids. I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it with channel or angle iron? I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the web for some more info. Thanks, Jim C Roberts |
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In article ,
"Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net wrote: Greetings all, I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate. The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year. The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have lids. I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it with channel or angle iron? I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the web for some more info. It depends on how much flex is allowable. I just built a 2' x 2' x 6' water tank for my spring, and used 1/16" thick stainless. I did use 2 reinforcing bars on the top since it was completely open, and the bulge was less than 1/4" when full; quite acceptable for my use. SWAG, I would think that 3/16" would have little bulge but I don't know your specs. I would be concerned about sloshing, 3' x 4' tanks can slosh a lot on the road. -- Free men own guns, slaves don't www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
#3
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Jim !
If I should do that job, I had buildt it after specificactions for tanks in vessels. I,m sure you can get it from the Coastguard. The reason for this is a tank this size, the liquid in it will make a lot of power mowing around when the truck start, stopp and make that uturn on the road when he have missed the right direction :-(. With a bad constructed tank, the liquid take control, and you have got a ticket to the hospital. It is even very important that the openings are possible to completly close watertight so the tank always can be filled up as much as possible. A full tank is a "dead" tank, and behave like a block of wood. Dividers in both the w and l direction will reduce the problem with free liquid surface. From my experience at sea, tanks have to be wellbuildt, else they make trouble. PS I had even pressure tested it. Just to tell myself that my welding is OK. Tor Norway "Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net skrev i melding ... Greetings all, I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate. The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year. The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have lids. I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it with channel or angle iron? I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the web for some more info. Thanks, Jim C Roberts |
#4
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Jim !
If I should do that job, I had buildt it after specificactions for tanks in vessels. I,m sure you can get it from the Coastguard. The reason for this is a tank this size, the liquid in it will make a lot of power mowing around when the truck start, stopp and make that uturn on the road when he have missed the right direction :-(. With a bad constructed tank, the liquid take control, and you have got a ticket to the hospital. It is even very important that the openings are possible to completly close watertight so the tank always can be filled up as much as possible. A full tank is a "dead" tank, and behave like a block of wood. Dividers in both the w and l direction will reduce the problem with free liquid surface. From my experience at sea, tanks have to be wellbuildt, else they make trouble. PS I had even pressure tested it. Just to tell myself that my welding is OK. Tor Norway "Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net skrev i melding ... Greetings all, I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate. The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year. The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have lids. I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it with channel or angle iron? I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the web for some more info. Thanks, Jim C Roberts |
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Jim !
If I should do that job, I had buildt it after specificactions for tanks in vessels. I,m sure you can get it from the Coastguard. The reason for this is a tank this size, the liquid in it will make a lot of power mowing around when the truck start, stopp and make that uturn on the road when he have missed the right direction :-(. With a bad constructed tank, the liquid take control, and you have got a ticket to the hospital. It is even very important that the openings are possible to completly close watertight so the tank always can be filled up as much as possible. A full tank is a "dead" tank, and behave like a block of wood. Dividers in both the w and l direction will reduce the problem with free liquid surface. From my experience at sea, tanks have to be wellbuildt, else they make trouble. PS I had even pressure tested it. Just to tell myself that my welding is OK. Tor Norway "Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net skrev i melding ... Greetings all, I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate. The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year. The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have lids. I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it with channel or angle iron? I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the web for some more info. Thanks, Jim C Roberts |
#6
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On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 21:40:22 GMT, "Tor Høili"
wrote: Jim ! If I should do that job, I had buildt it after specificactions for tanks in vessels. I,m sure you can get it from the Coastguard. The reason for this is a tank this size, the liquid in it will make a lot of power mowing around when the truck start, stopp and make that uturn on the road when he have missed the right direction :-(. With a bad constructed tank, the liquid take control, and you have got a ticket to the hospital. It is even very important that the openings are possible to completly close watertight so the tank always can be filled up as much as possible. A full tank is a "dead" tank, and behave like a block of wood. Dividers in both the w and l direction will reduce the problem with free liquid surface. From my experience at sea, tanks have to be wellbuildt, else they make trouble. PS I had even pressure tested it. Just to tell myself that my welding is OK. Tor Norway "Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net skrev i melding ... Greetings all, I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate. The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year. The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have lids. I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it with channel or angle iron? I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the web for some more info. Thanks, Jim C Roberts What Tor said. Dad built a 1700 gal. tank out of 1/4" steel plate for the crop duster spray truck. It had a 400 gal. mix tank on the back. The top and bottom were rolled a little, sides and ends flat. He welded baffles with holes in them fore and aft and each side. The old International tandem drove fine with that thing on it, but we usually filled it pretty full. We could fill from any canal or ditch with the on-board pump (2-1/2" 4Hp. Kohler). Dad put about a 2' dia. hole with rim in the top, with hinged lid. Pete Keillor |
#7
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On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 17:53:27 -0500, Peter T. Keillor III
wrote: What Tor said. Dad built a 1700 gal. tank out of 1/4" steel plate for the crop duster spray truck. It had a 400 gal. mix tank on the back. The top and bottom were rolled a little, sides and ends flat. He welded baffles with holes in them fore and aft and each side. The old International tandem drove fine with that thing on it, but we usually filled it pretty full. We could fill from any canal or ditch with the on-board pump (2-1/2" 4Hp. Kohler). Dad put about a 2' dia. hole with rim in the top, with hinged lid. Pete Keillor What Pete and Tor said. When I was in highschool, I worked at a boyscout camp. They had a 1948 fire truck. The baffles were all busted in the tank, so you had to coast it to a stop. If you applied any brakes, you felt like you just got rear ended by a Buick. My ma was a typist for W.S. Darley (a municipal supply and fire truck company) at the time. So the next year, we strong armed them into donating a repair job to the Boyscouts. I got to drive the thing down from Waupaca Wisc. to Chicago. That was fun. Paul K. Dickman |
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