Tank construction questions.
 

Greetings all,

I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate.
The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year.
The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider
wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have lids.
I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what
thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it
with channel or angle iron?

I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the web
for some more info.

Thanks,
Jim C Roberts

In article ,
"Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net wrote:

Greetings all,

I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate.
The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year.
The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider
wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have lids.
I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what
thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it
with channel or angle iron?

I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the web
for some more info.

It depends on how much flex is allowable. I just built a 2' x 2' x 6'
water tank for my spring, and used 1/16" thick stainless. I did use 2
reinforcing bars on the top since it was completely open, and the bulge
was less than 1/4" when full; quite acceptable for my use.

SWAG, I would think that 3/16" would have little bulge but I don't know
your specs. I would be concerned about sloshing, 3' x 4' tanks can
slosh a lot on the road.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

Jim !

If I should do that job, I had buildt it after specificactions for tanks in
vessels. I,m sure you can get it from the Coastguard.
The reason for this is a tank this size, the liquid in it will make a lot
of power mowing around when the truck start, stopp and make that uturn on
the road when he have missed the right direction :-(. With a bad constructed
tank, the liquid take control, and you have got a ticket to the hospital. It
is even very important that the openings are possible to completly close
watertight so the tank always can be filled up as much as possible. A full
tank is a "dead" tank, and behave like a block of wood. Dividers in both the
w and l direction will reduce the problem with free liquid surface. From my
experience at sea, tanks have to be wellbuildt, else they make trouble.
PS I had even pressure tested it. Just to tell myself that my welding is OK.

Tor
Norway

"Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net skrev i melding
...
Greetings all,

I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate.
The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year.
The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider
wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have
lids.
I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what
thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it
with channel or angle iron?

I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the
web
for some more info.

Thanks,
Jim C Roberts

Jim !

If I should do that job, I had buildt it after specificactions for tanks in
vessels. I,m sure you can get it from the Coastguard.
The reason for this is a tank this size, the liquid in it will make a lot
of power mowing around when the truck start, stopp and make that uturn on
the road when he have missed the right direction :-(. With a bad constructed
tank, the liquid take control, and you have got a ticket to the hospital. It
is even very important that the openings are possible to completly close
watertight so the tank always can be filled up as much as possible. A full
tank is a "dead" tank, and behave like a block of wood. Dividers in both the
w and l direction will reduce the problem with free liquid surface. From my
experience at sea, tanks have to be wellbuildt, else they make trouble.
PS I had even pressure tested it. Just to tell myself that my welding is OK.

Tor
Norway

"Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net skrev i melding
...
Greetings all,

I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate.
The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year.
The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider
wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have
lids.
I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what
thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it
with channel or angle iron?

I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the
web
for some more info.

Thanks,
Jim C Roberts

Jim !

If I should do that job, I had buildt it after specificactions for tanks in
vessels. I,m sure you can get it from the Coastguard.
The reason for this is a tank this size, the liquid in it will make a lot
of power mowing around when the truck start, stopp and make that uturn on
the road when he have missed the right direction :-(. With a bad constructed
tank, the liquid take control, and you have got a ticket to the hospital. It
is even very important that the openings are possible to completly close
watertight so the tank always can be filled up as much as possible. A full
tank is a "dead" tank, and behave like a block of wood. Dividers in both the
w and l direction will reduce the problem with free liquid surface. From my
experience at sea, tanks have to be wellbuildt, else they make trouble.
PS I had even pressure tested it. Just to tell myself that my welding is OK.

Tor
Norway

"Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net skrev i melding
...
Greetings all,

I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate.
The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year.
The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider
wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have
lids.
I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what
thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it
with channel or angle iron?

I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the
web
for some more info.

Thanks,
Jim C Roberts

On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 21:40:22 GMT, "Tor Høili"
wrote:

Jim !

If I should do that job, I had buildt it after specificactions for tanks in
vessels. I,m sure you can get it from the Coastguard.
The reason for this is a tank this size, the liquid in it will make a lot
of power mowing around when the truck start, stopp and make that uturn on
the road when he have missed the right direction :-(. With a bad constructed
tank, the liquid take control, and you have got a ticket to the hospital. It
is even very important that the openings are possible to completly close
watertight so the tank always can be filled up as much as possible. A full
tank is a "dead" tank, and behave like a block of wood. Dividers in both the
w and l direction will reduce the problem with free liquid surface. From my
experience at sea, tanks have to be wellbuildt, else they make trouble.
PS I had even pressure tested it. Just to tell myself that my welding is OK.

Tor
Norway

"Jim C Roberts" jimnthem_AT_comcast_DOT_net skrev i melding
...
Greetings all,

I am being asked to build a tank to hold fish(trout) out of Alum. plate.
The tank will be mounted in a truck driven a few thousand miles per year.
The dimensions I have been given are 3'H X 4'W X 6'L with a center divider
wall, solid/welded top with 2 roughly 2' X 2' openings which will have
lids.
I will probably use 3003 alloy so I can bend it, just not sure what
thickness to use. I am thinking 1/4", but could I use 3/16" and "wrap" it
with channel or angle iron?

I will appreciate any and all input, and I am going to look around the
web
for some more info.

Thanks,
Jim C Roberts

What Tor said. Dad built a 1700 gal. tank out of 1/4" steel plate for
the crop duster spray truck. It had a 400 gal. mix tank on the back.
The top and bottom were rolled a little, sides and ends flat. He
welded baffles with holes in them fore and aft and each side. The old
International tandem drove fine with that thing on it, but we usually
filled it pretty full. We could fill from any canal or ditch with the
on-board pump (2-1/2" 4Hp. Kohler). Dad put about a 2' dia. hole with
rim in the top, with hinged lid.

Pete Keillor

On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 17:53:27 -0500, Peter T. Keillor III
wrote:


What Tor said. Dad built a 1700 gal. tank out of 1/4" steel plate for
the crop duster spray truck. It had a 400 gal. mix tank on the back.
The top and bottom were rolled a little, sides and ends flat. He
welded baffles with holes in them fore and aft and each side. The old
International tandem drove fine with that thing on it, but we usually
filled it pretty full. We could fill from any canal or ditch with the
on-board pump (2-1/2" 4Hp. Kohler). Dad put about a 2' dia. hole with
rim in the top, with hinged lid.

Pete Keillor


What Pete and Tor said.
When I was in highschool, I worked at a boyscout camp. They had a 1948
fire truck. The baffles were all busted in the tank, so you had to
coast it to a stop. If you applied any brakes, you felt like you just
got rear ended by a Buick.

My ma was a typist for W.S. Darley (a municipal supply and fire truck
company) at the time. So the next year, we strong armed them into
donating a repair job to the Boyscouts. I got to drive the thing down
from Waupaca Wisc. to Chicago. That was fun.

Paul K. Dickman