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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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WTB: 0.005 inch thick Hi Temp alloy sheet
I want to buy a few square feet of 0.005 inch thick sheet to make
some parts that are about three inches by three inches. The parts are flat leaves that slide across each other to form a shutter. I want some kind of alloy that will resist warping if the parts are heated to about 800F for a short time. Can anyone suggest some place to buy this? Thanks |
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"Tim Williams" wrote in
: "Dev Null" wrote in message ... I want to buy a few square feet of 0.005 inch thick sheet to make some parts that are about three inches by three inches. The parts are flat leaves that slide across each other to form a shutter. I want some kind of alloy that will resist warping if the parts are heated to about 800F for a short time. That's not terribly hot. Would stainless foil (well, not quite foil, but not really sheet) do it? Tim That's what is used now and it's warping. I don't know the exact temperature but it's hot enough to leave the current parts black and blue and warped, let's say 1400F then? That's at least a red heat. There's got to be something better. I've tried a bunch of companies but they either would not recommend an alloy or didn't have anything as thin as 0.005 inch. I'll take something a little thicker if I can find it. If I have to make a new part I want it to last forever. I'm willing to pay a premium for this sheet. |
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Dev Null wrote: "Tim Williams" wrote in : "Dev Null" wrote in message . .. I want to buy a few square feet of 0.005 inch thick sheet to make some parts that are about three inches by three inches. The parts are flat leaves that slide across each other to form a shutter. I want some kind of alloy that will resist warping if the parts are heated to about 800F for a short time. That's not terribly hot. Would stainless foil (well, not quite foil, but not really sheet) do it? Tim That's what is used now and it's warping. I don't know the exact temperature but it's hot enough to leave the current parts black and blue and warped, let's say 1400F then? That's at least a red heat. There's got to be something better. I've tried a bunch of companies but they either would not recommend an alloy or didn't have anything as thin as 0.005 inch. I'll take something a little thicker if I can find it. If I have to make a new part I want it to last forever. I'm willing to pay a premium for this sheet. Sheet will just warp. The only way to stop it is to control the geometry so that warpage doesn't cause a problem. Not knowing the shape or use of the part I can only use the example of a laser cut slot in the sheet to give some warpage control. There are lots of materials that will take the heat...T321 stainless is one example. 80-20 stainless is another but may be harder to find in sheet form. Maybe you could leak some more info about the application? Koz |
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Koz wrote in
: Dev Null wrote: "Tim Williams" wrote in : "Dev Null" wrote in message . .. I want to buy a few square feet of 0.005 inch thick sheet to make some parts that are about three inches by three inches. The parts are flat leaves that slide across each other to form a shutter. I want some kind of alloy that will resist warping if the parts are heated to about 800F for a short time. That's not terribly hot. Would stainless foil (well, not quite foil, but not really sheet) do it? Tim That's what is used now and it's warping. I don't know the exact temperature but it's hot enough to leave the current parts black and blue and warped, let's say 1400F then? That's at least a red heat. There's got to be something better. I've tried a bunch of companies but they either would not recommend an alloy or didn't have anything as thin as 0.005 inch. I'll take something a little thicker if I can find it. If I have to make a new part I want it to last forever. I'm willing to pay a premium for this sheet. Sheet will just warp. The only way to stop it is to control the geometry so that warpage doesn't cause a problem. Not knowing the shape or use of the part I can only use the example of a laser cut slot in the sheet to give some warpage control. There are lots of materials that will take the heat...T321 stainless is one example. 80-20 stainless is another but may be harder to find in sheet form. Maybe you could leak some more info about the application? Koz The parts are leaves in a leaf shutter for a 500W high pressure mercury lamp optical system. The leaves sort of look like a sickle with a short, really fat blade. I don't care about warping when the leaf is hot. I don't want the leaf to remain warped when it cools. The normal operating temp is probably 200F but if there is a focus problem the leaf gets hot. If even one leaf gets warped the shutter will jam. Which is bad. I'm going to buy some shim stock from McMaster for now. Maybe I'll find something evetually. Thanks |
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The thinnest high-temp, small-quantity sheet stock I know of is at
McMaster Carr - 0.018 thick Hastelloy X. You could buy some stainless steel shim stock at the thickness you want, but I don't know if it would resist warping and/or oxidizing at that temp. Dev Null wrote: I want to buy a few square feet of 0.005 inch thick sheet to make some parts that are about three inches by three inches. The parts are flat leaves that slide across each other to form a shutter. I want some kind of alloy that will resist warping if the parts are heated to about 800F for a short time. Can anyone suggest some place to buy this? Thanks |
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Dev Null wrote:
The parts are leaves in a leaf shutter for a 500W high pressure mercury lamp optical system. The leaves sort of look like a sickle with a short, really fat blade. I don't care about warping when the leaf is hot. I don't want the leaf to remain warped when it cools. The normal operating temp is probably 200F but if there is a focus problem the leaf gets hot. If even one leaf gets warped the shutter will jam. Which is bad. I'm going to buy some shim stock from McMaster for now. Maybe I'll find something evetually. I built one of these out of BRASS shim stock, sliding on a brass heat sink. It was in a 200 W system, and the total output of the lamp was focussed on a 2 mm spot on the brass. I never had any problem with warping, although there was a black spot burned into the shutter. My shutter just had one "leaf" that blocked or opened a 2 mm hole in the heat sink. It may have been that the light was so intense that most of it bounced off the brass when the shutter was closed. if your shutter is black, maybe putting a reflector on the source side of the leaves would help keep it cool. I suppose you could go for Titanium, they use that in jet engine exhaust pipes, so it can definitely take the heat. Jon |
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Dev Null wrote: I want to buy a few square feet of 0.005 inch thick sheet to make some parts that are about three inches by three inches. The parts are flat leaves that slide across each other to form a shutter. I want some kind of alloy that will resist warping if the parts are heated to about 800F for a short time. Can anyone suggest some place to buy this? Thanks Take a look at Inconel 625. There is an outfit in Southern CA called Thin metals that may be able to supply this material in foil. I don't have the number handy right now. Another source might be Alltemp alloys. Also in SOCAL. I would also suggest photo etching the leaves of the shutter. Good luck Tom Lipton |
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Jon Elson wrote: Dev Null wrote: The parts are leaves in a leaf shutter for a 500W high pressure mercury lamp optical system. The leaves sort of look like a sickle with a short, really fat blade. I don't care about warping when the leaf is hot. I don't want the leaf to remain warped when it cools. The normal operating temp is probably 200F but if there is a focus problem the leaf gets hot. If even one leaf gets warped the shutter will jam. Which is bad. I'm going to buy some shim stock from McMaster for now. Maybe I'll find something evetually. I built one of these out of BRASS shim stock, sliding on a brass heat sink. It was in a 200 W system, and the total output of the lamp was focussed on a 2 mm spot on the brass. I never had any problem with warping, although there was a black spot burned into the shutter. My shutter just had one "leaf" that blocked or opened a 2 mm hole in the heat sink. It may have been that the light was so intense that most of it bounced off the brass when the shutter was closed. if your shutter is black, maybe putting a reflector on the source side of the leaves would help keep it cool. I suppose you could go for Titanium, they use that in jet engine exhaust pipes, so it can definitely take the heat. Jon Oh, yeah, one more detail! I used a dichroic splitter to dump the heat component into a DIFFERENT heat sink, so the shutter was only hit with the visible and UV component of the lamp's output. The dichroic mirror was put at a 45 degree angle, to bounce the short waves into the shutter. The long waves went straight through to the IR dump heat sink, and it got plenty hot! Jon |
#11
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In article ,
Dev Null wrote: The parts are leaves in a leaf shutter for a 500W high pressure mercury lamp optical system. The leaves sort of look like a sickle with a short, really fat blade. I don't care about warping when the leaf is hot. I don't want the leaf to remain warped when it cools. The normal operating temp is probably 200F but if there is a focus problem the leaf gets hot. If even one leaf gets warped the shutter will jam. Which is bad. Why don't you re-design the shutter so it only has 2 overlapping pieces, sheets with a "V" notch to give you an adjustable square opening. The pieces can be a lot thicker and there will be less jamming and more ability to take the heat. -- Free men own guns, slaves don't www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/ |
#12
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Nick Hull wrote in
: In article , Dev Null wrote: The parts are leaves in a leaf shutter for a 500W high pressure mercury lamp optical system. The leaves sort of look like a sickle with a short, really fat blade. I don't care about warping when the leaf is hot. I don't want the leaf to remain warped when it cools. The normal operating temp is probably 200F but if there is a focus problem the leaf gets hot. If even one leaf gets warped the shutter will jam. Which is bad. Why don't you re-design the shutter so it only has 2 overlapping pieces, sheets with a "V" notch to give you an adjustable square opening. The pieces can be a lot thicker and there will be less jamming and more ability to take the heat. I'm trying to repair existing equipment so I have to go with what's there. Vibration would be bad so I don't want to make heavy parts. Also the exposure time (several seconds) is important so I want the shutter to be fast. We have the dichroic mirror too but I guess that only goes so far. I can get the parts EDM'ed. I'm hacking together a dxf file for this. I found some Inconel 600A shim stock at McMaster Carr so I'm going with that for now. Thanks for everyone's suggestions. |
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