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Default Waterpik repair

The battery-powered WP-360 Water Flosser eventually slows down, so I buy
another and set the old one aside to fix later. Today is later, to avoid the
infection risk of a shopping trip and the cost of yet another new one. After
prying the ribbed ring out with a Swiss Army knife can opener they
disassemble easily with a small Phillips. Inside is two tabbed AA NiMH
cells, a DC motor and pump, all of which come apart by removing fairly large
screws, unlike the tiny ones on another of today's projects.

The on-line repair suggestions are about replacing the battery, but when I
took apart an old one for practice the batteries were still charged and the
motor had corroded and seized solid. The current, slow one worked fine after
I had opened it, which is typical for me. Maybe a bit of clogging dirt was
dislodged? I see the same thing with small engine carburetors.

Electrically the 3.17VAC input float-charges the NiMh cells through a series
diode. The motor on my good one draws about 1 Amp from a metered power
supply, disassembled on the bench without the pump load. The battery voltage
dropped from 2.8V (external test charge) to 2.2V before disassembly, 2.5V
after.

The motor pinion drives a crown gear with an eccentric for the pump piston.
The eccentric might have a trace of factory grease on it. I oiled everything
that moves with "safe for plastics" light oil since I didn't find a
different suggestion.

Has anyone else fixed one of these with good/bad results?

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Default Waterpik repair

Jim Wilkins wrote:



Has anyone else fixed one of these with good/bad results?

I kept a Braun electric toothbrush working for YEARS past the expected
lifetime, with outboard batteries and a drop of oil on each motor bearing
every couple years. I'll bet a drop of oil on each end (if you can get to
the shaft at both ends) and let it soak in for a few hours will loosen the
motor up quite well. Eventually the brushes and or commutator wear away,
and that is the end of it.

Jon
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Default Waterpik repair

"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...

Jim Wilkins wrote:

Has anyone else fixed one of these with good/bad results?

I kept a Braun electric toothbrush working for YEARS past the expected
lifetime, with outboard batteries and a drop of oil on each motor bearing
every couple years. I'll bet a drop of oil on each end (if you can get to
the shaft at both ends) and let it soak in for a few hours will loosen the
motor up quite well. Eventually the brushes and or commutator wear away,
and that is the end of it.

Jon
--------------------------------

I used a needle oiler from a hobby store which reached in past the crown
gear and under the pinion. The gear assembly separates from the motor easily
but I only did that on the frozen unit because inadequate gear tooth
engagement is a reported problem.

I've used turbine oil in a zoom spout bottle on the plain shaft bearings of
my megger and found that it needed re-oiling after a year on the shelf,
perhaps the thin oil evaporates? The crank drives a planetary speed
increaser on a concentric shaft, and becomes stiff if not oiled.

https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-Me...ct_top?ie=UTF8
It's a ripoff of the old Biddle megger. The idea is that if you shock
yourself you automatically stop cranking the high voltage generator.

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