Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() I said I would tell Iggy when one of the Walmart LED light bulbs failed And it happened two days ago. Yesterday I went by Walmart and got a replacement. About the same price but noticeably different. The original had a frosted bulb, and the replacement is clear. And the LED is more or less like a filament. But the real difference is that the replacement failed the same day it was installed. I replaced it with another bulb from the same box. We will see if it is infant mortality or what. Dan |
#2
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#3
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wednesday, August 8, 2018 at 6:02:14 AM UTC-7, raykeller wrote:
Everywhere in the world is converting to LED bulbs. LED bulbs are longer lasting and more fuel efficient. However, the US light bulb manufacturers have strong aversion to LED bulbs. They probably conspire to deliberately make or import lousy LED bulbs to buck the trend. No, it's worse than that. Everyone wants LEDs, so they're being churned out to fit into existing fixtures that are completely inappropriate for LED technology. Incandescent bulbs tolerate elevated temperatures, and radiate in 4pi steradians. They work on high voltage AC. LEDs last long at low temperatures, and radiate in 2pi steradians. They work on low voltage DC. But, the 'LED' items in the store are intended to screw into incandescent bulb sockets. So, (1) heat dissipation is poor (you can't get 3k lumen LED lighting into this form factor) (2) every AC-powered lamp must convert the voltage down OR must put so many LEDs in series that reliabilty suffers, (3) there is a host of incompatibiiities with dimmers, lighted switches, and RF interference being problems. For some (actually very good) LED lamps, a few years' use will lower the efficiency BUT you can't replace the dim LED; you have to buy an entire new fixture. Probably in a decade we'll see ballast-plus-lamp systems that let you use a DC converter (like a ballast) with replaceable lamps, that get good illumination coverage in area lighting, task lighting, spot lighting, etc. The 'compatible' screw-in LED items won't be the best LED lighting available. |
#4
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now,
and what you say about heat dissipation is right. They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base where the electronics are. That said, the quality of light they produce has improved greatly over the last few years. Paul K. Dickman "whit3rd" wrote in message ... On Wednesday, August 8, 2018 at 6:02:14 AM UTC-7, raykeller wrote: Everywhere in the world is converting to LED bulbs. LED bulbs are longer lasting and more fuel efficient. However, the US light bulb manufacturers have strong aversion to LED bulbs. They probably conspire to deliberately make or import lousy LED bulbs to buck the trend. No, it's worse than that. Everyone wants LEDs, so they're being churned out to fit into existing fixtures that are completely inappropriate for LED technology. Incandescent bulbs tolerate elevated temperatures, and radiate in 4pi steradians. They work on high voltage AC. LEDs last long at low temperatures, and radiate in 2pi steradians. They work on low voltage DC. But, the 'LED' items in the store are intended to screw into incandescent bulb sockets. So, (1) heat dissipation is poor (you can't get 3k lumen LED lighting into this form factor) (2) every AC-powered lamp must convert the voltage down OR must put so many LEDs in series that reliabilty suffers, (3) there is a host of incompatibiiities with dimmers, lighted switches, and RF interference being problems. For some (actually very good) LED lamps, a few years' use will lower the efficiency BUT you can't replace the dim LED; you have to buy an entire new fixture. Probably in a decade we'll see ballast-plus-lamp systems that let you use a DC converter (like a ballast) with replaceable lamps, that get good illumination coverage in area lighting, task lighting, spot lighting, etc. The 'compatible' screw-in LED items won't be the best LED lighting available. |
#5
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Paul K. Dickman wrote:
I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now, and what you say about heat dissipation is right. They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base where the electronics are. I have a few ceiling lights I have been thinking of putting LED into. How are they on their side? Stephen B. -- Remove first spam only to reply |
#6
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 8 Aug 2018 18:59:34 -0400, "Stephen B."
wrote: Paul K. Dickman wrote: I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now, and what you say about heat dissipation is right. They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base where the electronics are. I have a few ceiling lights I have been thinking of putting LED into. How are they on their side? Stephen B. I have LED PAR lights - several years now with no problem. Also Philips "flat" type LRDs base up in enclosed fixtures - over 5 years now. I had a bunch of cheap chinese crap GR10 and mr16 bulbs that went like flashbulbs - then I replaced them with brand name (Philips and Noma) GR10s and they are standing upo REALLY well. I've got a lot of TCP A19s in base-up configuration - no failures yet out of 36 in one installation - almost 2 years now - both 60 and 100 watt equivalents. There are lots of cheap crap LEDs that are not worth taking home |
#7
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Horizontal works fine. Even a slight angle like the ones in my track
lighting seem to work fine. I have a half dozen lamps that burn 24-7. These are the ones I replaced first because the energy savings were worth it. The ones that burn base up have all been replaced three times, the others are on their first bulb. These were either Phillips or Sylvania and all their 8w (60 watt eq). Understand, the time on the burned out ones was probably 10k hours. but the others are pushing 30k. I could probably send them back under warranty, but around here, the basic bulbs are heavily subsidized by the local power company and only cost about a buck. Paul K. Dickman "Stephen B." wrote in message news ![]() Paul K. Dickman wrote: I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now, and what you say about heat dissipation is right. They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base where the electronics are. I have a few ceiling lights I have been thinking of putting LED into. How are they on their side? Stephen B. -- Remove first spam only to reply |
#8
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 8 Aug 2018 11:54:15 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote: On Wednesday, August 8, 2018 at 6:02:14 AM UTC-7, raykeller wrote: Everywhere in the world is converting to LED bulbs. LED bulbs are longer lasting and more fuel efficient. However, the US light bulb manufacturers have strong aversion to LED bulbs. They probably conspire to deliberately make or import lousy LED bulbs to buck the trend. Always the conspiracy, huh? No, it's worse than that. Everyone wants LEDs, so they're being churned out to fit into existing fixtures that are completely inappropriate for LED technology. "completely inappropriate?" Really? They seem to be working fine for me. Of course, I didn't buy dollar store quality lamps. About the only places I can quickly think of where LEDs are inappropriate are unvented recessed ceiling cans and ceiling fan lights. Incandescent bulbs tolerate elevated temperatures, and radiate in 4pi steradians. They work on high voltage AC. LEDs last long at low temperatures, and radiate in 2pi steradians. They work on low voltage DC. But, the 'LED' items in the store are intended to screw into incandescent bulb sockets. You don't have a clue! Last year I bought a couple of top-of-the-line Osram 100 equiv watt continuous spectrum lamps at Home Depot for $9 each. One quickly failed. The other has been in service for a little over a year. Rather than do a warranty claim, I decided to dissect the failed lamp. Inside I found a bridge rectifier, a small filter cap and a 4 terminal ASIC constant current regulator. The LEDs are mounted on a post to put them in essentially the same position a filament would be. The radiation pattern is essentially the same as the CFL I replaced it with. After 10+ years, the CFL was still just fine but I wanted to use the fixture over my bed for the test. It radiates plenty of light downward for me to read by. Lots out the side with the remainder toward the ceiling, the scatter from which illuminates the whole room. When I moved to my cabin about 15 years ago, I replaced all the incandescent lamps with quality GE 100 watt equiv CFLs purchased at Sam's club. Most are still going strong. I've replaced 4 this year. 15 years is a mighty good performance record. I write the installation date on each lamp using a Sharpie. These had operated so long that the Sharpie had almost faded. If I get that kind of performance out of the LEDs, I will be well-pleased. John John DeArmond http://www.neon-john.com http://www.tnduction.com Tellico Plains, Occupied TN See website for email address |
#9
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 13:05:59 -0400, Neon John wrote:
On Wed, 8 Aug 2018 11:54:15 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd wrote: On Wednesday, August 8, 2018 at 6:02:14 AM UTC-7, raykeller wrote: Everywhere in the world is converting to LED bulbs. LED bulbs are longer lasting and more fuel efficient. However, the US light bulb manufacturers have strong aversion to LED bulbs. They probably conspire to deliberately make or import lousy LED bulbs to buck the trend. Always the conspiracy, huh? No, it's worse than that. Everyone wants LEDs, so they're being churned out to fit into existing fixtures that are completely inappropriate for LED technology. "completely inappropriate?" Really? They seem to be working fine for me. Of course, I didn't buy dollar store quality lamps. About the only places I can quickly think of where LEDs are inappropriate are unvented recessed ceiling cans and ceiling fan lights. They've been working fine in my ceiling fan for several years Incandescent bulbs tolerate elevated temperatures, and radiate in 4pi steradians. They work on high voltage AC. LEDs last long at low temperatures, and radiate in 2pi steradians. They work on low voltage DC. But, the 'LED' items in the store are intended to screw into incandescent bulb sockets. You don't have a clue! Last year I bought a couple of top-of-the-line Osram 100 equiv watt continuous spectrum lamps at Home Depot for $9 each. One quickly failed. The other has been in service for a little over a year. Rather than do a warranty claim, I decided to dissect the failed lamp. Inside I found a bridge rectifier, a small filter cap and a 4 terminal ASIC constant current regulator. The LEDs are mounted on a post to put them in essentially the same position a filament would be. The radiation pattern is essentially the same as the CFL I replaced it with. After 10+ years, the CFL was still just fine but I wanted to use the fixture over my bed for the test. The first 10? CFLs I installed all lasted less than a year. The last batch was lasting pretty good - but the ones that failed failked pretty spectacularly. Thecheap-assed Chinese noname LEDS I bought were pretty spotty, but the brandname stuff has been very VERYgood. NO failures yet ( some are now almost 3 years old) It radiates plenty of light downward for me to read by. Lots out the side with the remainder toward the ceiling, the scatter from which illuminates the whole room. When I moved to my cabin about 15 years ago, I replaced all the incandescent lamps with quality GE 100 watt equiv CFLs purchased at Sam's club. Most are still going strong. I've replaced 4 this year. 15 years is a mighty good performance record. I write the installation date on each lamp using a Sharpie. These had operated so long that the Sharpie had almost faded. If I get that kind of performance out of the LEDs, I will be well-pleased. John John DeArmond http://www.neon-john.com http://www.tnduction.com Tellico Plains, Occupied TN See website for email address |
#10
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Clare Snyder wrote on 8/15/2018 2:09 PM:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 13:05:59 -0400, Neon John wrote: On Wed, 8 Aug 2018 11:54:15 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd wrote: On Wednesday, August 8, 2018 at 6:02:14 AM UTC-7, raykeller wrote: Everywhere in the world is converting to LED bulbs. LED bulbs are longer lasting and more fuel efficient. However, the US light bulb manufacturers have strong aversion to LED bulbs. They probably conspire to deliberately make or import lousy LED bulbs to buck the trend. Always the conspiracy, huh? No, it's worse than that. Everyone wants LEDs, so they're being churned out to fit into existing fixtures that are completely inappropriate for LED technology. "completely inappropriate?" Really? They seem to be working fine for me. Of course, I didn't buy dollar store quality lamps. About the only places I can quickly think of where LEDs are inappropriate are unvented recessed ceiling cans and ceiling fan lights. They've been working fine in my ceiling fan for several years There should be enough air movement around the ceiling fan to cool the lights. Incandescent bulbs tolerate elevated temperatures, and radiate in 4pi steradians. They work on high voltage AC. LEDs last long at low temperatures, and radiate in 2pi steradians. They work on low voltage DC. But, the 'LED' items in the store are intended to screw into incandescent bulb sockets. You don't have a clue! Last year I bought a couple of top-of-the-line Osram 100 equiv watt continuous spectrum lamps at Home Depot for $9 each. One quickly failed. The other has been in service for a little over a year. Rather than do a warranty claim, I decided to dissect the failed lamp. Inside I found a bridge rectifier, a small filter cap and a 4 terminal ASIC constant current regulator. The LEDs are mounted on a post to put them in essentially the same position a filament would be. The radiation pattern is essentially the same as the CFL I replaced it with. After 10+ years, the CFL was still just fine but I wanted to use the fixture over my bed for the test. The first 10? CFLs I installed all lasted less than a year. The last batch was lasting pretty good - but the ones that failed failked pretty spectacularly. Thecheap-assed Chinese noname LEDS I bought were pretty spotty, but the brandname stuff has been very VERYgood. NO failures yet ( some are now almost 3 years old) It radiates plenty of light downward for me to read by. Lots out the side with the remainder toward the ceiling, the scatter from which illuminates the whole room. When I moved to my cabin about 15 years ago, I replaced all the incandescent lamps with quality GE 100 watt equiv CFLs purchased at Sam's club. Most are still going strong. I've replaced 4 this year. 15 years is a mighty good performance record. I write the installation date on each lamp using a Sharpie. These had operated so long that the Sharpie had almost faded. If I get that kind of performance out of the LEDs, I will be well-pleased. John John DeArmond http://www.neon-john.com http://www.tnduction.com Tellico Plains, Occupied TN See website for email address |
#11
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 11:09:59 AM UTC-7, Clare wrote:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 13:05:59 -0400, Neon John wrote: On Wed, 8 Aug 2018 11:54:15 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd wrote: ... Everyone wants LEDs, so they're being churned out to fit into existing fixtures that are completely inappropriate for LED technology. "completely inappropriate?" Really? They seem to be working fine for me. They've been working fine in my ceiling fan for several years That's a simple functional test; yes, you can make light. But, an appropriate design would USE the differences from incandescent lamps, not just work around some of them. After a few years, an LED will lose efficiency (halflife unknown, but something like 5 years). So, for my ceiling fixture that takes three bulbs, I'd be replacing three LED-and-phosphor lamps, three heatsinks, and three AC/DC converters everytime I put new bulbs in. And, I'd be fiddling with screw-in sockets that were designed for Edison lamps of a century ago. Redesigned fixtures can be more effiective in a dozen ways, and few if any fixtures are so small today that they couldn't heatsink a much brighter bunch of LEDs (if only they'd been designed with that in mind). Hobbyists putting strips of LEDs into long linear mounts are doing better than the engineers that package LEDs in bulb format. And, those linear strips are arguably less failure-prone. |
#12
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Walmart Protests Lack Actual Walmart Employees | Metalworking | |||
selling led lighting such as led christmas light,led decorative light,led house lamp | UK diy | |||
LED,LED Lamp,LED Lights,LED Display,Automotive Lamp,LED Chip,LED Module | Electronics | |||
O.T. Making clear lamps into amber lamps | Metalworking | |||
Convert Miniature Lamps to LED on Stereo Receiver | Electronics |