Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Old August 8th 18, 01:05 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Walmart LED lamps


I said I would tell Iggy when one of the Walmart LED light bulbs failed And it happened two days ago. Yesterday I went by Walmart and got a replacement. About the same price but noticeably different. The original had a frosted bulb, and the replacement is clear. And the LED is more or less like a filament.

But the real difference is that the replacement failed the same day it was installed. I replaced it with another bulb from the same box. We will see if it is infant mortality or what.

Dan

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Old August 8th 18, 07:54 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Walmart LED lamps

On Wednesday, August 8, 2018 at 6:02:14 AM UTC-7, raykeller wrote:

Everywhere in the world is converting to LED bulbs. LED bulbs are longer
lasting and more fuel efficient. However, the US light bulb
manufacturers have strong aversion to LED bulbs. They probably conspire
to deliberately make or import lousy LED bulbs to buck the trend.


No, it's worse than that. Everyone wants LEDs, so they're being churned
out to fit into existing fixtures that are completely inappropriate for LED technology.

Incandescent bulbs tolerate elevated temperatures, and radiate in 4pi steradians.
They work on high voltage AC.
LEDs last long at low temperatures, and radiate in 2pi steradians. They work
on low voltage DC. But, the 'LED' items in the store are intended to screw into
incandescent bulb sockets.

So, (1) heat dissipation is poor (you can't get 3k lumen LED lighting into this form factor)
(2) every AC-powered lamp must convert the voltage down OR must put so many LEDs in series
that reliabilty suffers, (3) there is a host of incompatibiiities with dimmers, lighted
switches, and RF interference being problems. For some (actually very good)
LED lamps, a few years' use will lower the efficiency BUT you can't replace the
dim LED; you have to buy an entire new fixture.

Probably in a decade we'll see ballast-plus-lamp systems that let you use a DC converter
(like a ballast) with replaceable lamps, that get good illumination coverage in
area lighting, task lighting, spot lighting, etc. The 'compatible' screw-in LED
items won't be the best LED lighting available.
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Old August 8th 18, 09:15 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Walmart LED lamps

I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now,
and what you say about heat dissipation is right.
They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent
will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have
a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base
where the electronics are.
That said, the quality of light they produce has improved greatly over the
last few years.

Paul K. Dickman

"whit3rd" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, August 8, 2018 at 6:02:14 AM UTC-7, raykeller wrote:

Everywhere in the world is converting to LED bulbs. LED bulbs are longer
lasting and more fuel efficient. However, the US light bulb
manufacturers have strong aversion to LED bulbs. They probably conspire
to deliberately make or import lousy LED bulbs to buck the trend.


No, it's worse than that. Everyone wants LEDs, so they're being churned
out to fit into existing fixtures that are completely inappropriate for
LED technology.

Incandescent bulbs tolerate elevated temperatures, and radiate in 4pi
steradians.
They work on high voltage AC.
LEDs last long at low temperatures, and radiate in 2pi steradians. They
work
on low voltage DC. But, the 'LED' items in the store are intended to
screw into
incandescent bulb sockets.

So, (1) heat dissipation is poor (you can't get 3k lumen LED lighting into
this form factor)
(2) every AC-powered lamp must convert the voltage down OR must put so
many LEDs in series
that reliabilty suffers, (3) there is a host of incompatibiiities with
dimmers, lighted
switches, and RF interference being problems. For some (actually very
good)
LED lamps, a few years' use will lower the efficiency BUT you can't
replace the
dim LED; you have to buy an entire new fixture.

Probably in a decade we'll see ballast-plus-lamp systems that let you use
a DC converter
(like a ballast) with replaceable lamps, that get good illumination
coverage in
area lighting, task lighting, spot lighting, etc. The 'compatible'
screw-in LED
items won't be the best LED lighting available.



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Old August 8th 18, 11:59 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Walmart LED lamps

Paul K. Dickman wrote:
I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now,
and what you say about heat dissipation is right.
They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent
will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have
a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base
where the electronics are.


I have a few ceiling lights I have been thinking of putting LED into.
How are they on their side?

Stephen B.

--
Remove first spam only to reply


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Old August 9th 18, 04:46 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Walmart LED lamps

On Wed, 8 Aug 2018 18:59:34 -0400, "Stephen B."
wrote:

Paul K. Dickman wrote:
I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now,
and what you say about heat dissipation is right.
They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent
will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have
a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base
where the electronics are.


I have a few ceiling lights I have been thinking of putting LED into.
How are they on their side?

Stephen B.



I have LED PAR lights - several years now with no problem. Also
Philips "flat" type LRDs base up in enclosed fixtures - over 5 years
now. I had a bunch of cheap chinese crap GR10 and mr16 bulbs that went
like flashbulbs - then I replaced them with brand name (Philips and
Noma) GR10s and they are standing upo REALLY well.

I've got a lot of TCP A19s in base-up configuration - no failures yet
out of 36 in one installation - almost 2 years now - both 60 and 100
watt equivalents.

There are lots of cheap crap LEDs that are not worth taking home
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Old August 9th 18, 05:22 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Walmart LED lamps

Clare Snyder wrote on 8/8/2018 11:46 PM:
On Wed, 8 Aug 2018 18:59:34 -0400, "Stephen B."
wrote:

Paul K. Dickman wrote:
I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now,
and what you say about heat dissipation is right.
They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent
will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have
a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base
where the electronics are.

I have a few ceiling lights I have been thinking of putting LED into.
How are they on their side?

Stephen B.


I have LED PAR lights - several years now with no problem. Also
Philips "flat" type LRDs base up in enclosed fixtures - over 5 years
now. I had a bunch of cheap chinese crap GR10 and mr16 bulbs that went
like flashbulbs - then I replaced them with brand name (Philips and
Noma) GR10s and they are standing upo REALLY well.

I've got a lot of TCP A19s in base-up configuration - no failures yet
out of 36 in one installation - almost 2 years now - both 60 and 100
watt equivalents.

There are lots of cheap crap LEDs that are not worth taking home



All the LED bulbs I checked at Home Depot (demo on display) are full
spectrum, compared to tri-color in compact fluorescent bulbs. Light
emitted from LED bulbs are more natural and easier to the eyes. (I used
a pocket diffraction grating spectroscope to check the light).








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Old August 9th 18, 02:16 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 447
Default Walmart LED lamps

Horizontal works fine. Even a slight angle like the ones in my track
lighting seem to work fine.
I have a half dozen lamps that burn 24-7. These are the ones I replaced
first because the energy savings were worth it. The ones that burn base up
have all been replaced three times, the others are on their first bulb.
These were either Phillips or Sylvania and all their 8w (60 watt eq).
Understand, the time on the burned out ones was probably 10k hours. but the
others are pushing 30k.
I could probably send them back under warranty, but around here, the basic
bulbs are heavily subsidized by the local power company and only cost about
a buck.

Paul K. Dickman


"Stephen B." wrote in message
news
Paul K. Dickman wrote:
I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now,
and what you say about heat dissipation is right.
They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w
equivalent
will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents
have
a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base
where the electronics are.


I have a few ceiling lights I have been thinking of putting LED into.
How are they on their side?

Stephen B.

--
Remove first spam only to reply



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Old August 9th 18, 07:34 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: May 2011
Posts: 8,979
Default Walmart LED lamps

On Wed, 08 Aug 2018 23:46:22 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 8 Aug 2018 18:59:34 -0400, "Stephen B."
wrote:

Paul K. Dickman wrote:
I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now,
and what you say about heat dissipation is right.
They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent
will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have
a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base
where the electronics are.


Saw vents into the plastic area near the screw in base for better
coolth to the power supply? Some new LED bulbs are designed for that.

I have a few ceiling lights I have been thinking of putting LED into.
How are they on their side?


I've had no trouble with any on their side.


I have LED PAR lights - several years now with no problem. Also
Philips "flat" type LRDs base up in enclosed fixtures - over 5 years
now. I had a bunch of cheap chinese crap GR10 and mr16 bulbs that went
like flashbulbs - then I replaced them with brand name (Philips and
Noma) GR10s and they are standing upo REALLY well.


My Chi MR16s have been fine. Most of the corn cop style burned out
quickly, but the A-19 shape with pcb inside have lasted well.


I've got a lot of TCP A19s in base-up configuration - no failures yet
out of 36 in one installation - almost 2 years now - both 60 and 100
watt equivalents.


I'm not having any problems with TCP or Philips, either.


There are lots of cheap crap LEDs that are not worth taking home


Yes, but Chinese vendors are upgrading their quality now that the
others have gone out of business, been phased out, or upgraded.

--
America rose from abnormal origins. The nation didn't grow organ-
ically or gradually from indigenous tribes--like, say, the French
or the Poles--but emerged out of courageous, conscious acts of
will by Pilgrims and Patriots. --Michael Medved, Right Turns
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Old August 10th 18, 01:15 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 1,272
Default Walmart LED lamps

On Thu, 09 Aug 2018 11:34:48 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 08 Aug 2018 23:46:22 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 8 Aug 2018 18:59:34 -0400, "Stephen B."
wrote:

Paul K. Dickman wrote:
I've been buying the basic LED A series replacements for a few years now,
and what you say about heat dissipation is right.
They hate to run in a base up configuration. Anything above a 60w equivalent
will burn out lickety split when run base up. Even the 60w equivalents have
a seriously shortened life because all the heat gets trapped in the base
where the electronics are.


Saw vents into the plastic area near the screw in base for better
coolth to the power supply? Some new LED bulbs are designed for that.

I have a few ceiling lights I have been thinking of putting LED into.
How are they on their side?


I've had no trouble with any on their side.


I have LED PAR lights - several years now with no problem. Also
Philips "flat" type LRDs base up in enclosed fixtures - over 5 years
now. I had a bunch of cheap chinese crap GR10 and mr16 bulbs that went
like flashbulbs - then I replaced them with brand name (Philips and
Noma) GR10s and they are standing upo REALLY well.


My Chi MR16s have been fine. Most of the corn cop style burned out
quickly, but the A-19 shape with pcb inside have lasted well.


I've got a lot of TCP A19s in base-up configuration - no failures yet
out of 36 in one installation - almost 2 years now - both 60 and 100
watt equivalents.


I'm not having any problems with TCP or Philips, either.


There are lots of cheap crap LEDs that are not worth taking home


Yes, but Chinese vendors are upgrading their quality now that the
others have gone out of business, been phased out, or upgraded.


There are "brand name" Chinese bulbs, and there are CHinese Crap
bulbs.


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