On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 23:57:44 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:21:57 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 15:53:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:16 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 03:56:12 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:50 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:03:16 -0700, L

As a side note....I got the opportunity to work on this 2 weeks
ago.
Had to pull the left spingle and hub, then remove the steering
knuckle, get some welding done, then reassemble.

It was interesting how the hub was assembled...no manual...sigh. It
certainly wasnt a system Id ever seen before. And of course..the
wheel
bearings were ball bearings..not rollers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3RAsOMLLVWPQMFYE3


Nice old Bug.
Prewar Itallian engineering.
Designed to be light and stroing - and FAST.

No seat belts either.

They arent cheap.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...5/1893334.html

The new model:
https://www.bugatti.com/chiron/

I'll bet the new one stops quicker, even from 250mph.
Undoubtably - but the tires were the limiting factor on a T35. The
drum brakes were HUGE, and the design of the wheel provided "actve
cooling". They DID tend to fade in tight track racing, but locking
the brakes was never really a problem.

They only faded when they were wet or you put your foot on the brake
pedal. I so, so, sooooo don't miss drum brakes. Or carburetors.
I made tens of thousands fiddlin' with both, and prefer not.

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 00:05:25 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:26:58 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 20:47:28 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 20:45:50 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 19:59:37 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 19:50:30 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 15:08:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 16:14:39 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 09:47:02 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:16 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 03:56:12 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:50 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:03:16 -0700, L

As a side note....I got the opportunity to work on this 2 weeks ago.
Had to pull the left spingle and hub, then remove the steering
knuckle, get some welding done, then reassemble.

It was interesting how the hub was assembled...no manual...sigh. It
certainly wasnt a system Id ever seen before. And of course..the wheel
bearings were ball bearings..not rollers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3RAsOMLLVWPQMFYE3


Nice old Bug.
Prewar Itallian engineering.
Designed to be light and stroing - and FAST.

No seat belts either.

They arent cheap.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...5/1893334.html


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


For a T35 GP 2.6 mil IS cheap.

It was a rather fascinating car to work on. The engine was made in
Argentina as this had been a restoration project from a carcass.

Seems that Argentina is one of the classic car restoration capitals of
the world for cars of this type. They made molds and patterns for
every car that had ever been fixed/modified and restored..so you can
order parts made on the original tooling, to the original blueprints
and formed on patterns identical with factory patterns. They are
considered "original" parts..albeit NOS....with a heart stopping
price.

The carburetor on these cars..protrudes from the BOTTOM of the engine
well and the bowl is lower than the bottom of the engine.


Yup - the carb is on the bottom of the "blower"

It has
manual lubrication in addition to engine driven lubers. If you go
into a turn and the oil sloshes away from the oil pump...there is a
manual pump on the dash that you can operate to give it more oil.

The pics are in high defintioni so feel free to find the icon and blow
up the photos and look at the bits and pieces

Gunner

If you ever get a chance to tour the Big Dog Garage, you'll see
several Bugatti race cars from the '20s and early '30s. Jay Leno has
some beauties, as well as a couple of road-going Bugattis.

The engines look like they were made in a machine shop. I had to wipe
my drool off before I left. d8-)


A machine shop?? More like a jewelry shop.

The guy I was helping went to Leno's garage last week and made a
cardboard mockup of the removable cover for the carberator. Its
supposed to be accessable with the bonnet closed. He cut and fit to
match both of Leno's 35Bs and brought it back to his shop to see if it
will fit his clients car. Last time I talked to him, he was busy
brazing a new cover together so he could install it.

Too bad you couldn't have gone with him. I'd love to meet Jay and see
his shop city.
Likewize.

He owns (and has said it is one of his favorite cars) a green and
white Dodge Coronet Sierra wagon. His is a 1954, and has wire wheels -
while mine was a '53 (virtually identical except the '54 side trim is
higher than the '53)) with standard steel wheels.
SWEET 241 Hemi.

Sure wish I had mine back!!!

My favorite Dodge was my grandmother's '69 Monaco with the 383 4bbl,
which would definitely git'n'****. The paint was a lovely metallic OD
green, and that boat would pull eighteen skiers!
https://www.allpar.com/photos/vimage...onaco-1969.jpg

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 20:09:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 23:57:44 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:21:57 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 15:53:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
m...
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:16 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 03:56:12 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:50 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:03:16 -0700, L

As a side note....I got the opportunity to work on this 2 weeks
ago.
Had to pull the left spingle and hub, then remove the steering
knuckle, get some welding done, then reassemble.

It was interesting how the hub was assembled...no manual...sigh. It
certainly wasnt a system Id ever seen before. And of course..the
wheel
bearings were ball bearings..not rollers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3RAsOMLLVWPQMFYE3


Nice old Bug.
Prewar Itallian engineering.
Designed to be light and stroing - and FAST.

No seat belts either.

They arent cheap.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...5/1893334.html

The new model:
https://www.bugatti.com/chiron/

I'll bet the new one stops quicker, even from 250mph.
Undoubtably - but the tires were the limiting factor on a T35. The
drum brakes were HUGE, and the design of the wheel provided "actve
cooling". They DID tend to fade in tight track racing, but locking
the brakes was never really a problem.

They only faded when they were wet or you put your foot on the brake
pedal. I so, so, sooooo don't miss drum brakes. Or carburetors.
I made tens of thousands fiddlin' with both, and prefer not.
Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

No arguements at all on carbs!!!

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 17:58:25 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 21:11:11 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 19:50:30 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 15:08:29 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 16:14:39 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 09:47:02 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:16 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 03:56:12 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:50 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:03:16 -0700, L

As a side note....I got the opportunity to work on this 2
weeks
ago.
Had to pull the left spingle and hub, then remove the
steering
knuckle, get some welding done, then reassemble.

It was interesting how the hub was assembled...no
manual...sigh. It
certainly wasnt a system Id ever seen before. And of
course..the wheel
bearings were ball bearings..not rollers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3RAsOMLLVWPQMFYE3


Nice old Bug.
Prewar Itallian engineering.
Designed to be light and stroing - and FAST.

No seat belts either.

They arent cheap.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...5/1893334.html


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


For a T35 GP 2.6 mil IS cheap.

It was a rather fascinating car to work on. The engine was made
in
Argentina as this had been a restoration project from a carcass.

Seems that Argentina is one of the classic car restoration
capitals
of
the world for cars of this type. They made molds and patterns for
every car that had ever been fixed/modified and restored..so you
can
order parts made on the original tooling, to the original
blueprints
and formed on patterns identical with factory patterns. They are
considered "original" parts..albeit NOS....with a heart stopping
price.

The carburetor on these cars..protrudes from the BOTTOM of the
engine
well and the bowl is lower than the bottom of the engine.


Yup - the carb is on the bottom of the "blower"

It has
manual lubrication in addition to engine driven lubers. If you
go
into a turn and the oil sloshes away from the oil pump...there is
a
manual pump on the dash that you can operate to give it more oil.

The pics are in high defintioni so feel free to find the icon and
blow
up the photos and look at the bits and pieces

Gunner

If you ever get a chance to tour the Big Dog Garage, you'll see
several Bugatti race cars from the '20s and early '30s. Jay Leno
has
some beauties, as well as a couple of road-going Bugattis.

The engines look like they were made in a machine shop. I had to
wipe
my drool off before I left. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

Here's a comparable operation that restores Rolls-Royce Merlins:
http://www.51-factory.com/merlin_overhaul.html

'Lots of interesting detail in the machining operations. I never
knew
that Merlins had hollow crankshafts.

When I was a kid I was infatuated with Merlins. I was up close to
Miss
Bardahl when she was started before a race:

http://www.bluebird-electric.net/blu...Oils_Fuels.htm

The sound never leaves you. I can still remember how my guts were
vibrating. d8-)

I loved those ThunderBoats down on Sandy Eggo's Mission Bay. Drunk
and on the outside of a turn, we were crazy close (=really= dumb.) I
loved the big engines until they started running the jet turbines.
Circus Circus had a pink boat in there, Bardahl (I think), and the
pretty blue Atlas Van Lines. There was a gold and white one, too,
IIRC. Miss Bud's red boat came up 45-degrees and we thought she was
going to flip, but the wind died down, the foot came off the throttle
for half a second, and she was back at it.


For your riding mower:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...51-Spitfire%29

giggle

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:46:30 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 18:43:15 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
Today, I could put them on my snow blower. We have close to 10" on
the ground and it soon will be a heavy load for the 'blower, so I'll
be firing it up soon and expecting to take another pass around
midnight.

A Merlin would be useful -- just aim the exhaust stacks down at the
sidewalk.

Search youtube for remote control snow blower videos. It was a few years
ago that I last looked. Some pretty cool stuff out there. Sit
inside with your cup of joe, work the joystick

I remember seeing one with 6 wheels and a blade which was remote and
all battery powered. Looked like a ton of fun. You can buy kits for
them now, it appears. https://is.gd/D7L8gs

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 23:54:46 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:31:38 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:22:33 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 20:38:17 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 09:31:10 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

Those are often adjustable?
What vehicle is wearing the tires? Make, year and model??

2003 Dodge Caravan


OK, MacPherson strut suspension - only one ball joint, and only one
controll arm.

Only a few possibilities - if there is no play in the ball joint -

Bent lower control arm, bemt strut, or bent frame. - IF it is a camber
problem.

Those front ends are pretty stout - not as stout as the twin "I" beem
on the old Rangers and F Series.

First thing is jack it up .It is not a load bearing joint so you
need to jack it up by the frame, not the control arm to check for
play. With the wheel off the ground check the ball joint, outer tie
rod end and inner tie rod end for play. Inner tie rod ends (inside the
rack) are a common failure and will cause wear on one tire.


Thanks!! Ill do that in the morning!!

I know absolutely dick about struts. One of the reasons I drive old
vehicles...I understand (somewhat) about how they tick.

They're just beefy coilover shock absorbers with a spindle built onto
the bottom of 'em. On some vehicles, the top of the strut is
adjustable for caster, camber, or both. But not many have that. (At
least as of 1985 when I got 99% out of the biz.)

Caster plates are available for many vehicles to adjust caster on
strut suspensions. The top pivot bearing takes the place of the upper
balljoint, and the strut eliminates the upper control arm.

Some have the knuckle bolted to the strut, a few have the knuckle as
part of the strut. On those with bolt-on knuckles, one bolt hole can
be slotted to adjust camber.

On the ones with integral knuckles, the spindle/wheel-bearing assembly
bolts on, and tapered shims can sometimes bve installed between the
knuckle and the spindle assembly. This was more common a few years
back in light rear-wheel drive cars.

Yeah, I figured that things would change a bit. My Tundra was light
years ahead of the old '90 F-150. Control arms instead of I-beams,
too. g


We used to replace the shocks in struts with inserts - and on some
actually rebuild the shock in the strut (before nitrogen "gas shocks")
The relative cost of replacement struts has dropped SIGNIFICANTLY so
it is almost unheard of the rebuild or "restuff" struts today.

My buddy just redid his brakes on his 1994 Toyota and only paid $120
for both sets of pads and all 4 rotors. Prices HAVE come down. Bosch
pads for front and rear of my Tundra cost $53 via Amazon.

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 20:26:44 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 00:05:25 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:26:58 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 20:47:28 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 20:45:50 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 19:59:37 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 19:50:30 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 15:08:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 16:14:39 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 09:47:02 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:16 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 03:56:12 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:50 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:03:16 -0700, L

As a side note....I got the opportunity to work on this 2 weeks ago.
Had to pull the left spingle and hub, then remove the steering
knuckle, get some welding done, then reassemble.

It was interesting how the hub was assembled...no manual...sigh. It
certainly wasnt a system Id ever seen before. And of course..the wheel
bearings were ball bearings..not rollers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3RAsOMLLVWPQMFYE3


Nice old Bug.
Prewar Itallian engineering.
Designed to be light and stroing - and FAST.

No seat belts either.

They arent cheap.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...5/1893334.html


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


For a T35 GP 2.6 mil IS cheap.

It was a rather fascinating car to work on. The engine was made in
Argentina as this had been a restoration project from a carcass.

Seems that Argentina is one of the classic car restoration capitals of
the world for cars of this type. They made molds and patterns for
every car that had ever been fixed/modified and restored..so you can
order parts made on the original tooling, to the original blueprints
and formed on patterns identical with factory patterns. They are
considered "original" parts..albeit NOS....with a heart stopping
price.

The carburetor on these cars..protrudes from the BOTTOM of the engine
well and the bowl is lower than the bottom of the engine.


Yup - the carb is on the bottom of the "blower"

It has
manual lubrication in addition to engine driven lubers. If you go
into a turn and the oil sloshes away from the oil pump...there is a
manual pump on the dash that you can operate to give it more oil.

The pics are in high defintioni so feel free to find the icon and blow
up the photos and look at the bits and pieces

Gunner

If you ever get a chance to tour the Big Dog Garage, you'll see
several Bugatti race cars from the '20s and early '30s. Jay Leno has
some beauties, as well as a couple of road-going Bugattis.

The engines look like they were made in a machine shop. I had to wipe
my drool off before I left. d8-)


A machine shop?? More like a jewelry shop.

The guy I was helping went to Leno's garage last week and made a
cardboard mockup of the removable cover for the carberator. Its
supposed to be accessable with the bonnet closed. He cut and fit to
match both of Leno's 35Bs and brought it back to his shop to see if it
will fit his clients car. Last time I talked to him, he was busy
brazing a new cover together so he could install it.

Too bad you couldn't have gone with him. I'd love to meet Jay and see
his shop city.
Likewize.

He owns (and has said it is one of his favorite cars) a green and
white Dodge Coronet Sierra wagon. His is a 1954, and has wire wheels -
while mine was a '53 (virtually identical except the '54 side trim is
higher than the '53)) with standard steel wheels.
SWEET 241 Hemi.

Sure wish I had mine back!!!

My favorite Dodge was my grandmother's '69 Monaco with the 383 4bbl,
which would definitely git'n'****. The paint was a lovely metallic OD
green, and that boat would pull eighteen skiers!
https://www.allpar.com/photos/vimage...onaco-1969.jpg


Well, I had a 170 leaning tower of power putting 206hp to the rear
wheels in a 63 Valiant, a couple of warmed 225 Darts, the 241 Hemi
Coronet, a 264.5 flatty in the 57 Fargo ,a mitso****ty 2.6 in a
Lebaron and a 3.0 Mitso****ty 6 in the New Yorker, as well as the 2.4
PT Cruiser.

Dad had numerous little flatties, '36, 47, 49, 50 and 51 - a 56 and
58 V8, a honking 413 New Yorker, and a 360 Polara as well as a few 225
slant six trucks.

Kid brother had souped up 225 in his valiant (split manifold and a
bunch of other mods - I never saw it run because it was while I was in
Zambia but it had a reputation for being FAST) and a warmed over 318
in a satelite that gave 340 road runners a good run.

The New Yorker 413 would pass anything but a gas station.

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 20:52:38 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 17:58:25 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 21:11:11 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
m...
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 19:50:30 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 15:08:29 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 16:14:39 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 09:47:02 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:16 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 03:56:12 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:50 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:03:16 -0700, L

As a side note....I got the opportunity to work on this 2
weeks
ago.
Had to pull the left spingle and hub, then remove the
steering
knuckle, get some welding done, then reassemble.

It was interesting how the hub was assembled...no
manual...sigh. It
certainly wasnt a system Id ever seen before. And of
course..the wheel
bearings were ball bearings..not rollers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3RAsOMLLVWPQMFYE3


Nice old Bug.
Prewar Itallian engineering.
Designed to be light and stroing - and FAST.

No seat belts either.

They arent cheap.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...5/1893334.html


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


For a T35 GP 2.6 mil IS cheap.

It was a rather fascinating car to work on. The engine was made
in
Argentina as this had been a restoration project from a carcass.

Seems that Argentina is one of the classic car restoration
capitals
of
the world for cars of this type. They made molds and patterns for
every car that had ever been fixed/modified and restored..so you
can
order parts made on the original tooling, to the original
blueprints
and formed on patterns identical with factory patterns. They are
considered "original" parts..albeit NOS....with a heart stopping
price.

The carburetor on these cars..protrudes from the BOTTOM of the
engine
well and the bowl is lower than the bottom of the engine.


Yup - the carb is on the bottom of the "blower"

It has
manual lubrication in addition to engine driven lubers. If you
go
into a turn and the oil sloshes away from the oil pump...there is
a
manual pump on the dash that you can operate to give it more oil.

The pics are in high defintioni so feel free to find the icon and
blow
up the photos and look at the bits and pieces

Gunner

If you ever get a chance to tour the Big Dog Garage, you'll see
several Bugatti race cars from the '20s and early '30s. Jay Leno
has
some beauties, as well as a couple of road-going Bugattis.

The engines look like they were made in a machine shop. I had to
wipe
my drool off before I left. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

Here's a comparable operation that restores Rolls-Royce Merlins:
http://www.51-factory.com/merlin_overhaul.html

'Lots of interesting detail in the machining operations. I never
knew
that Merlins had hollow crankshafts.

When I was a kid I was infatuated with Merlins. I was up close to
Miss
Bardahl when she was started before a race:

http://www.bluebird-electric.net/blu...Oils_Fuels.htm

The sound never leaves you. I can still remember how my guts were
vibrating. d8-)

I loved those ThunderBoats down on Sandy Eggo's Mission Bay. Drunk
and on the outside of a turn, we were crazy close (=really= dumb.) I
loved the big engines until they started running the jet turbines.
Circus Circus had a pink boat in there, Bardahl (I think), and the
pretty blue Atlas Van Lines. There was a gold and white one, too,
IIRC. Miss Bud's red boat came up 45-degrees and we thought she was
going to flip, but the wind died down, the foot came off the throttle
for half a second, and she was back at it.


For your riding mower:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...51-Spitfire%29

giggle


An old friend of mine at the airport - Gery Younger - a champion
Aerobatics pilot in years gone by, is putting the finishing touches on
a scale Merlin engine - all scratch built - that will run. He also
completed a Bentlry Rotary scale engine that runs like a top.

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 00:30:14 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 20:52:38 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 17:58:25 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 21:11:11 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
om...
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 19:50:30 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 15:08:29 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 16:14:39 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 09:47:02 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:16 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 03:56:12 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:50 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:03:16 -0700, L

As a side note....I got the opportunity to work on this 2
weeks
ago.
Had to pull the left spingle and hub, then remove the
steering
knuckle, get some welding done, then reassemble.

It was interesting how the hub was assembled...no
manual...sigh. It
certainly wasnt a system Id ever seen before. And of
course..the wheel
bearings were ball bearings..not rollers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3RAsOMLLVWPQMFYE3


Nice old Bug.
Prewar Itallian engineering.
Designed to be light and stroing - and FAST.

No seat belts either.

They arent cheap.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...5/1893334.html


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For a T35 GP 2.6 mil IS cheap.

It was a rather fascinating car to work on. The engine was made
in
Argentina as this had been a restoration project from a carcass.

Seems that Argentina is one of the classic car restoration
capitals
of
the world for cars of this type. They made molds and patterns for
every car that had ever been fixed/modified and restored..so you
can
order parts made on the original tooling, to the original
blueprints
and formed on patterns identical with factory patterns. They are
considered "original" parts..albeit NOS....with a heart stopping
price.

The carburetor on these cars..protrudes from the BOTTOM of the
engine
well and the bowl is lower than the bottom of the engine.


Yup - the carb is on the bottom of the "blower"

It has
manual lubrication in addition to engine driven lubers. If you
go
into a turn and the oil sloshes away from the oil pump...there is
a
manual pump on the dash that you can operate to give it more oil.

The pics are in high defintioni so feel free to find the icon and
blow
up the photos and look at the bits and pieces

Gunner

If you ever get a chance to tour the Big Dog Garage, you'll see
several Bugatti race cars from the '20s and early '30s. Jay Leno
has
some beauties, as well as a couple of road-going Bugattis.

The engines look like they were made in a machine shop. I had to
wipe
my drool off before I left. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

Here's a comparable operation that restores Rolls-Royce Merlins:
http://www.51-factory.com/merlin_overhaul.html

'Lots of interesting detail in the machining operations. I never
knew
that Merlins had hollow crankshafts.

When I was a kid I was infatuated with Merlins. I was up close to
Miss
Bardahl when she was started before a race:

http://www.bluebird-electric.net/blu...Oils_Fuels.htm

The sound never leaves you. I can still remember how my guts were
vibrating. d8-)

I loved those ThunderBoats down on Sandy Eggo's Mission Bay. Drunk
and on the outside of a turn, we were crazy close (=really= dumb.) I
loved the big engines until they started running the jet turbines.
Circus Circus had a pink boat in there, Bardahl (I think), and the
pretty blue Atlas Van Lines. There was a gold and white one, too,
IIRC. Miss Bud's red boat came up 45-degrees and we thought she was
going to flip, but the wind died down, the foot came off the throttle
for half a second, and she was back at it.


For your riding mower:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...51-Spitfire%29

giggle


An old friend of mine at the airport - Gery Younger - a champion
Aerobatics pilot in years gone by, is putting the finishing touches on
a scale Merlin engine - all scratch built - that will run. He also
completed a Bentlry Rotary scale engine that runs like a top.

Ten or 15 years ago we had a member here on RCM -- another Canadian --
who was building a scale model Merlin, a runner. He had the castings
made by some precision-casting specialist, and we saw some photos of
the engine as it was being completed.

I wonder how he made out with it.

--
Ed Huntress

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 23:35:12 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 20:09:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 23:57:44 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:21:57 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 15:53:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
om...
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:16 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 03:56:12 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:50 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:03:16 -0700, L

As a side note....I got the opportunity to work on this 2 weeks
ago.
Had to pull the left spingle and hub, then remove the steering
knuckle, get some welding done, then reassemble.

It was interesting how the hub was assembled...no manual...sigh. It
certainly wasnt a system Id ever seen before. And of course..the
wheel
bearings were ball bearings..not rollers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3RAsOMLLVWPQMFYE3


Nice old Bug.
Prewar Itallian engineering.
Designed to be light and stroing - and FAST.

No seat belts either.

They arent cheap.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...5/1893334.html

The new model:
https://www.bugatti.com/chiron/

I'll bet the new one stops quicker, even from 250mph.
Undoubtably - but the tires were the limiting factor on a T35. The
drum brakes were HUGE, and the design of the wheel provided "actve
cooling". They DID tend to fade in tight track racing, but locking
the brakes was never really a problem.

They only faded when they were wet or you put your foot on the brake
pedal. I so, so, sooooo don't miss drum brakes. Or carburetors.
I made tens of thousands fiddlin' with both, and prefer not.
Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

No arguements at all on carbs!!!

I hope not. It was fun making a poor-running car purr again. But
about the time the CARB (California Air Resources Board came into
being and we were installing smog controls on cars and then attempting
to tune them that it got so bad. I still have a copy of my smog
license from that era, and the memory still stings. Make it purr and
the oxides of nitrogen go up. Make that go away and the hydrocarbons
go way up. And in the sage country of SoCal, the NOX was higher at
night with no traffic than the CARB allowed coming out the exhaust
pipe. No Win BS.

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 00:20:42 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 20:26:44 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:
My favorite Dodge was my grandmother's '69 Monaco with the 383 4bbl,
which would definitely git'n'****. The paint was a lovely metallic OD
green, and that boat would pull eighteen skiers!
https://www.allpar.com/photos/vimage...onaco-1969.jpg


Well, I had a 170 leaning tower of power putting 206hp to the rear
wheels in a 63 Valiant,

Those slant sixes were the Timex/Everready of engines. Powerful,
efficient, easy to work on, ran forever, and ran well. Chrysler
probably had more fans of that engine than any other.


PT Cruiser.

I never warmed to those ugly beasts.


Dad had numerous little flatties, '36, 47, 49, 50 and 51 - a 56 and
58 V8, a honking 413 New Yorker, and a 360 Polara as well as a few 225
slant six trucks.

Dad told me stories about a 39 Ford which lost its fan belt on the way
from L.A. to Frisco. He took his leather belt off and made it work
until they found a belt in the next city. I think that is my only
flat head story. I never worked on one. No, I take that back. I
forgot about almost working on a frozen Conti flathead 4 in the
trailered Lincoon welder.

The New Yorker 413 would pass anything but a gas station.

All the big blocks were like that. I didn't mind with the 390 in my
'70 AMC Javelin. It was my one and only race car. I told people to
belt up and then took it through some twisties. Those who didn't got
slammed =hard= against both back seat walls before getting buckled
with their mouths open from awe. Sticky little critter on asphalt.
Fond memories.

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 11:55:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 00:20:42 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 20:26:44 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:
My favorite Dodge was my grandmother's '69 Monaco with the 383 4bbl,
which would definitely git'n'****. The paint was a lovely metallic OD
green, and that boat would pull eighteen skiers!
https://www.allpar.com/photos/vimage...onaco-1969.jpg


Well, I had a 170 leaning tower of power putting 206hp to the rear
wheels in a 63 Valiant,

Those slant sixes were the Timex/Everready of engines. Powerful,
efficient, easy to work on, ran forever, and ran well. Chrysler
probably had more fans of that engine than any other.


PT Cruiser.

I never warmed to those ugly beasts.


Dad had numerous little flatties, '36, 47, 49, 50 and 51 - a 56 and
58 V8, a honking 413 New Yorker, and a 360 Polara as well as a few 225
slant six trucks.

Dad told me stories about a 39 Ford which lost its fan belt on the way
from L.A. to Frisco. He took his leather belt off and made it work
until they found a belt in the next city. I think that is my only
flat head story. I never worked on one. No, I take that back. I
forgot about almost working on a frozen Conti flathead 4 in the
trailered Lincoon welder.

The New Yorker 413 would pass anything but a gas station.

All the big blocks were like that. I didn't mind with the 390 in my
'70 AMC Javelin. It was my one and only race car. I told people to
belt up and then took it through some twisties. Those who didn't got
slammed =hard= against both back seat walls before getting buckled
with their mouths open from awe. Sticky little critter on asphalt.
Fond memories.
The flatty in my Fargo had so much torque my friends said I needed
to join the SPCA (Stump Puller's Club of America) Combined with the
standard rear end gearing (4.10 :1) it was pretty much unstoppable.

218 ft lbs at 1600 RPM is pretty impressive.

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 11:44:40 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 23:35:12 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 20:09:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 23:57:44 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:21:57 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 15:53:29 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news:edd2bd5bfpbm0k70anb321tboeaacc39oo@4ax. com...
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:16 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 03:56:12 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:50 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:03:16 -0700, L

As a side note....I got the opportunity to work on this 2 weeks
ago.
Had to pull the left spingle and hub, then remove the steering
knuckle, get some welding done, then reassemble.

It was interesting how the hub was assembled...no manual...sigh. It
certainly wasnt a system Id ever seen before. And of course..the
wheel
bearings were ball bearings..not rollers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3RAsOMLLVWPQMFYE3


Nice old Bug.
Prewar Itallian engineering.
Designed to be light and stroing - and FAST.

No seat belts either.

They arent cheap.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds...5/1893334.html

The new model:
https://www.bugatti.com/chiron/

I'll bet the new one stops quicker, even from 250mph.
Undoubtably - but the tires were the limiting factor on a T35. The
drum brakes were HUGE, and the design of the wheel provided "actve
cooling". They DID tend to fade in tight track racing, but locking
the brakes was never really a problem.

They only faded when they were wet or you put your foot on the brake
pedal. I so, so, sooooo don't miss drum brakes. Or carburetors.
I made tens of thousands fiddlin' with both, and prefer not.
Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -
And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.
The original shoes and drums are still on my '96 Ranger rear axle at
358000km. On at LEAST the 4th set of pads and rotors This set should
last a bit longer since I "upsized" them from 10.15 to 11 inch.

Likely end up putting onthe new rear shoes purchased 7 years or so ago
this summer.

And yes, I worked professionally as a mechenic for close to 3 decades

No arguements at all on carbs!!!

I hope not. It was fun making a poor-running car purr again. But
about the time the CARB (California Air Resources Board came into
being and we were installing smog controls on cars and then attempting
to tune them that it got so bad. I still have a copy of my smog
license from that era, and the memory still stings. Make it purr and
the oxides of nitrogen go up. Make that go away and the hydrocarbons
go way up. And in the sage country of SoCal, the NOX was higher at
night with no traffic than the CARB allowed coming out the exhaust
pipe. No Win BS.


I used to sometimes set a car up to pass emissions, then when done,
reset the thing to run. Would not pass NOX in driveable configuration.
(Honda Civic VX was NOTORIOUS for that - they ran so lean the NOX went
through the roof - get them rich enough to pas NOX and the CO was
borderline and it didn't run worth a crap - and got bad mileage, but
it got a sticker for another 2 years..

On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 9:54:47 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 09:01:42 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 21:10:40 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
But I watched one guy with the controller in his hand, standing
outside directing the thing, bundled up in a heavy coat, gloves, and a
hood, and I thought...why? I'd be warmer walking behind. g

Some people don't think these things through too well. I know where _I_
would be while operating the controls

Heated sidewalks. That's what I want. I'd want something that, when
the old ladies walk by, it would melt the wheels on their walkers.

You need to move a bit closer to my area:

http://www.mlive.com/business/west-m...gest_snow.html

Yeah! That's what I want. All I need is a steam turbine...

--
Ed Huntress

If you had the steam, you could just melt the snow. This 30 million BTU puppy melts snow as fast as you can dump it in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmDl_nETs8U

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:25:33 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 9:54:47 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 09:01:42 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 21:10:40 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
But I watched one guy with the controller in his hand, standing
outside directing the thing, bundled up in a heavy coat, gloves, and a
hood, and I thought...why? I'd be warmer walking behind. g

Some people don't think these things through too well. I know where _I_
would be while operating the controls

Heated sidewalks. That's what I want. I'd want something that, when
the old ladies walk by, it would melt the wheels on their walkers.

You need to move a bit closer to my area:

http://www.mlive.com/business/west-m...gest_snow.html

Yeah! That's what I want. All I need is a steam turbine...

--
Ed Huntress

If you had the steam, you could just melt the snow.

Good point. g

This 30 million BTU puppy melts snow as fast as you can dump it in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmDl_nETs8U

Now, that's getting there. It would be overkill for my little house
and yard in NJ, but I like the idea.

There really has to be a better way that just blowing it around. When
the snowplow goes down the street and pushes all the snow back up my
driveway, I know how Sisyphus must have felt.

--
Ed Huntress

On 25/03/2018 2:56 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

There really has to be a better way that just blowing it around. When
the snowplow goes down the street and pushes all the snow back up my
driveway, I know how Sisyphus must have felt.

If you melt it and it doesn't have anywhere to run off to, you'll have a
skating rink in the morning...
I think fresh snow in the country is one of the prettiest sights. But
had my fill of it in Grass Valley, and will be quite happy if I can live
out my life down under without ever again having to lift a shovel full
of snow.

Jon

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.


The original shoes and drums are still on my '96 Ranger rear axle at
358000km. On at LEAST the 4th set of pads and rotors This set should
last a bit longer since I "upsized" them from 10.15 to 11 inch.

Amazing. I average 70k on pads new and in the past, and got maybe
100k on rear shoes in days of old. It has been a long while since
I've had front shoes, but I don't recall ever getting more than 40-50k
out of any.


Likely end up putting onthe new rear shoes purchased 7 years or so ago
this summer.

I just got ten years on both axles on the Tundra. Down to 4mm on the
front and 6 on the rear, but I figured that while I was checking, I'd
just go ahead and give it another ten years of life.


And yes, I worked professionally as a mechenic for close to 3 decades

Under 20 years pro for me, and I was always in small towns. You
probably have the edge on big cities and time, for sure. How do salt
and snow affect braking systems? You have the edge there, too,
thankfully.


No arguements at all on carbs!!!

I hope not. It was fun making a poor-running car purr again. But
about the time the CARB (California Air Resources Board came into
being and we were installing smog controls on cars and then attempting
to tune them that it got so bad. I still have a copy of my smog
license from that era, and the memory still stings. Make it purr and
the oxides of nitrogen go up. Make that go away and the hydrocarbons
go way up. And in the sage country of SoCal, the NOX was higher at
night with no traffic than the CARB allowed coming out the exhaust
pipe. No Win BS.


I used to sometimes set a car up to pass emissions, then when done,
reset the thing to run. Would not pass NOX in driveable configuration.
(Honda Civic VX was NOTORIOUS for that - they ran so lean the NOX went
through the roof - get them rich enough to pas NOX and the CO was
borderline and it didn't run worth a crap - and got bad mileage, but
it got a sticker for another 2 years..

Sacre bleu! Wouldn't that be illegal? snort Not many people dared
do that down in the Republik of Kalifornia with the CARB SS around.

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:41:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.



A large part of the difference may be that MOST of my customers over
the years had "preventative maintenance" done by me.

Only a stubborn few of my "regulars" ever ended up steel on steel

I did get lots of "walk-ins" over the years - but even then I replaced
a lot more rotors than drums, had a lot more "bonded" or "molded" pads
loose their frictionmaterial then I EVER had shoes loose theires,.

ANd it's not metric vs SAE as my experience goes back to the late
sixties when everything was SAE up here too.

The original shoes and drums are still on my '96 Ranger rear axle at
358000km. On at LEAST the 4th set of pads and rotors This set should
last a bit longer since I "upsized" them from 10.15 to 11 inch.

Amazing. I average 70k on pads new and in the past, and got maybe
100k on rear shoes in days of old. It has been a long while since
I've had front shoes, but I don't recall ever getting more than 40-50k
out of any.


Likely end up putting onthe new rear shoes purchased 7 years or so ago
this summer.

I just got ten years on both axles on the Tundra. Down to 4mm on the
front and 6 on the rear, but I figured that while I was checking, I'd
just go ahead and give it another ten years of life.

Aren't those Tundras something??? My brother has one that's 9 years
old now and other than oil changes he hasn't touched it. Tows a 20
something foot dual axle travel trailer with it


And yes, I worked professionally as a mechenic for close to 3 decades

Under 20 years pro for me, and I was always in small towns. You
probably have the edge on big cities and time, for sure. How do salt
and snow affect braking systems? You have the edge there, too,
thankfully.

Salt and snow on drum brakes caused a minor ridge at the edge of the
drum, on disk brakes it rots the heck out of the rotors and the
sliders or pins on the calipers, and pops the lining material off the
pads. Sometimes it seized up the drum adjusters or rotted off a spring
- but not really what I'd call common.

Very common to rust the splash sheilds off the disks -

Mabee a BIG reason why your experience and mine differ so much.


No arguements at all on carbs!!!

I hope not. It was fun making a poor-running car purr again. But
about the time the CARB (California Air Resources Board came into
being and we were installing smog controls on cars and then attempting
to tune them that it got so bad. I still have a copy of my smog
license from that era, and the memory still stings. Make it purr and
the oxides of nitrogen go up. Make that go away and the hydrocarbons
go way up. And in the sage country of SoCal, the NOX was higher at
night with no traffic than the CARB allowed coming out the exhaust
pipe. No Win BS.


I used to sometimes set a car up to pass emissions, then when done,
reset the thing to run. Would not pass NOX in driveable configuration.
(Honda Civic VX was NOTORIOUS for that - they ran so lean the NOX went
through the roof - get them rich enough to pas NOX and the CO was
borderline and it didn't run worth a crap - and got bad mileage, but
it got a sticker for another 2 years..

Sacre bleu! Wouldn't that be illegal? snort Not many people dared
do that down in the Republik of Kalifornia with the CARB SS around.

Up here, particularly back then, as long as you didn't remove or
dissable a polution control part you were unlikely to get into
trouble.

2 work orders.

One work order for pre-emission checkup. I had gas analyzer but was
not a smog shop - could almost guarantee a pass or fail.

Second work order - correct driveability issues - rough idle, stalls
on decel, or some such thing - reset the timing or air bleed or
whatever to solve the problem - and you were done - and the customer
was happy to get another 2 years out of the car 'till the next
inspection. No "conditional pass" which was officially only available
ONCE

Now any vehicle newer than 1997 doesn't even see a sniffer anymore.
If the OBD2 doesn't find a problem, you are GOLD. Depending on the
year you can even have either 1 or 2 monitors not set - so you can
sneak a surprizing amount of stuff through by keeping the tank either
full or below 1/4 tank, etc to keep the monitor from setting. Monitor
not set cannot report an error (such as a minor vapor emission leak,
or even sometimes a dead or dying catalyst. (my 2002 Taurus 4 cammer
has one empty catalyst and has gone as long as 6000km without turning
on a CEL)

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 23:56:06 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:25:33 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 9:54:47 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 09:01:42 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 21:10:40 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
But I watched one guy with the controller in his hand, standing
outside directing the thing, bundled up in a heavy coat, gloves, and a
hood, and I thought...why? I'd be warmer walking behind. g

Some people don't think these things through too well. I know where _I_
would be while operating the controls

Heated sidewalks. That's what I want. I'd want something that, when
the old ladies walk by, it would melt the wheels on their walkers.

You need to move a bit closer to my area:

http://www.mlive.com/business/west-m...gest_snow.html

Yeah! That's what I want. All I need is a steam turbine...

--
Ed Huntress

If you had the steam, you could just melt the snow.

Good point. g

This 30 million BTU puppy melts snow as fast as you can dump it in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmDl_nETs8U

Now, that's getting there. It would be overkill for my little house
and yard in NJ, but I like the idea.

There really has to be a better way that just blowing it around. When
the snowplow goes down the street and pushes all the snow back up my
riveway, I know how Sisyphus must have felt.
I seldom have a problem with the city plow filling my driveway. I
keep the snow right back to the curb all the way to my nieghbours
driveway plus the last twenty feet I run the blower on top of the curb
to give me a place for garbage and recycling containers. A few years
back the guys on bobcats clearing catchbasins thought this was a
wonderful place to pile thier surplus but the foreman in the city
pickup soon set them straight and had them haul it across to the city
park up the street. I also clear back to the curb around the corner
from my driveway so the plow operator doesn't have to guess where it
is. It only takes a few minutes and saves me a lot of headaches.
Besides, I enjoy playing outside in the winter!

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 23:46:06 -0400, Gerry
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 23:56:06 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:25:33 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 9:54:47 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 09:01:42 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 21:10:40 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
But I watched one guy with the controller in his hand, standing
outside directing the thing, bundled up in a heavy coat, gloves, and a
hood, and I thought...why? I'd be warmer walking behind. g

Some people don't think these things through too well. I know where _I_
would be while operating the controls

Heated sidewalks. That's what I want. I'd want something that, when
the old ladies walk by, it would melt the wheels on their walkers.

You need to move a bit closer to my area:

http://www.mlive.com/business/west-m...gest_snow.html

Yeah! That's what I want. All I need is a steam turbine...

--
Ed Huntress

If you had the steam, you could just melt the snow.

Good point. g

This 30 million BTU puppy melts snow as fast as you can dump it in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmDl_nETs8U

Now, that's getting there. It would be overkill for my little house
and yard in NJ, but I like the idea.

There really has to be a better way that just blowing it around. When
the snowplow goes down the street and pushes all the snow back up my
riveway, I know how Sisyphus must have felt.
I seldom have a problem with the city plow filling my driveway. I
keep the snow right back to the curb all the way to my nieghbours
driveway plus the last twenty feet I run the blower on top of the curb
to give me a place for garbage and recycling containers. A few years
back the guys on bobcats clearing catchbasins thought this was a
wonderful place to pile thier surplus but the foreman in the city
pickup soon set them straight and had them haul it across to the city
park up the street. I also clear back to the curb around the corner
from my driveway so the plow operator doesn't have to guess where it
is. It only takes a few minutes and saves me a lot of headaches.
Besides, I enjoy playing outside in the winter!



I do thee same Gerry. there is a catch-basin half way between my
driveway and the corner, and another about 10 feet up the side street.
I blow clear to the kerb right around the corner, and the plow
operator would have to try pretty hard to fill my driveway. We have
about 6 feet of boulevard between the street and the sidewalk both in
front of and beside the house. Almost 200 feet of sidewalk, so what's
another 50 feet??

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 23:46:06 -0400, Gerry
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 23:56:06 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:25:33 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 9:54:47 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 09:01:42 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 21:10:40 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
But I watched one guy with the controller in his hand, standing
outside directing the thing, bundled up in a heavy coat, gloves, and a
hood, and I thought...why? I'd be warmer walking behind. g

Some people don't think these things through too well. I know where _I_
would be while operating the controls

Heated sidewalks. That's what I want. I'd want something that, when
the old ladies walk by, it would melt the wheels on their walkers.

You need to move a bit closer to my area:

http://www.mlive.com/business/west-m...gest_snow.html

Yeah! That's what I want. All I need is a steam turbine...

--
Ed Huntress

If you had the steam, you could just melt the snow.

Good point. g

This 30 million BTU puppy melts snow as fast as you can dump it in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmDl_nETs8U

Now, that's getting there. It would be overkill for my little house
and yard in NJ, but I like the idea.

There really has to be a better way that just blowing it around. When
the snowplow goes down the street and pushes all the snow back up my
riveway, I know how Sisyphus must have felt.
I seldom have a problem with the city plow filling my driveway. I
keep the snow right back to the curb all the way to my nieghbours
driveway plus the last twenty feet I run the blower on top of the curb
to give me a place for garbage and recycling containers. A few years
back the guys on bobcats clearing catchbasins thought this was a
wonderful place to pile thier surplus but the foreman in the city
pickup soon set them straight and had them haul it across to the city
park up the street. I also clear back to the curb around the corner
from my driveway so the plow operator doesn't have to guess where it
is. It only takes a few minutes and saves me a lot of headaches.
Besides, I enjoy playing outside in the winter!

That gives you an unfair advantage. If I ever find myself enjoying
playing outside in the winter again, I'll give it a try.

I thought about bracing a sheet of plywood with a couple of 2 x 4ss,
right at the endge of the curb, but I figure they'll just give it a
wide berth and shove a wall of snow up against it, anyway.

A few years ago. I just stood out there with a snow shovel and looked
pathetic when they were plowing the street. They know me; they're the
same guys who pick up our trash, and my wife and I give them a big box
of cookies at Christmas time.

So the guy went by, pushing the snow up to the end of my driveway, but
when he came back (I live on a short dead-end street) he drove all the
way across the street to push it *away* from my driveway.

Maybe I should just stand out there and look like I'm having a heart
attack.

--
Ed Huntress

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 02:00:15 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:
On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 23:46:06 -0400, Gerry
wrote:


On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 23:56:06 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:25:33 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 9:54:47 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress
wrote:
On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 09:01:42 -0400, Leon Fisk

wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 21:10:40 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
But I watched one guy with the controller in his hand,
standing
outside directing the thing, bundled up in a heavy coat,
gloves, and a
hood, and I thought...why? I'd be warmer walking behind. g

Some people don't think these things through too well. I know
where _I_
would be while operating the controls

Heated sidewalks. That's what I want. I'd want something
that, when
the old ladies walk by, it would melt the wheels on their
walkers.

You need to move a bit closer to my area:


http://www.mlive.com/business/west-m...18/02/utility_
shows_off_largest_snow.html

Yeah! That's what I want. All I need is a steam turbine...

--
Ed Huntress

If you had the steam, you could just melt the snow.

Good point. g

This 30 million BTU puppy melts snow as fast as you can dump it
in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmDl_nETs8U

Now, that's getting there. It would be overkill for my little
house
and yard in NJ, but I like the idea.

There really has to be a better way that just blowing it around.
When
the snowplow goes down the street and pushes all the snow back up
my
riveway, I know how Sisyphus must have felt.
I seldom have a problem with the city plow filling my driveway. I
keep the snow right back to the curb all the way to my nieghbours
driveway plus the last twenty feet I run the blower on top of the
curb
to give me a place for garbage and recycling containers. A few
years
back the guys on bobcats clearing catchbasins thought this was a
wonderful place to pile thier surplus but the foreman in the city
pickup soon set them straight and had them haul it across to the
city
park up the street. I also clear back to the curb around the corner
from my driveway so the plow operator doesn't have to guess where
it
is. It only takes a few minutes and saves me a lot of headaches.
Besides, I enjoy playing outside in the winter!


That gives you an unfair advantage. If I ever find myself enjoying
playing outside in the winter again, I'll give it a try.


I thought about bracing a sheet of plywood with a couple of 2 x 4ss,
right at the endge of the curb, but I figure they'll just give it a
wide berth and shove a wall of snow up against it, anyway.


A few years ago. I just stood out there with a snow shovel and
looked
pathetic when they were plowing the street. They know me; they're
the
same guys who pick up our trash, and my wife and I give them a big
box
of cookies at Christmas time.


So the guy went by, pushing the snow up to the end of my driveway,
but
when he came back (I live on a short dead-end street) he drove all
the
way across the street to push it *away* from my driveway.


Maybe I should just stand out there and look like I'm having a heart
attack.


--
Ed ****dress

Maybe when they saw you standing there in your **** dress they
thought you would give them one of your famous deep throat blowjobs.

On Sunday, March 25, 2018 at 3:27:27 AM UTC-4, Jon Anderson wrote:
On 25/03/2018 2:56 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

There really has to be a better way that just blowing it around. When
the snowplow goes down the street and pushes all the snow back up my
driveway, I know how Sisyphus must have felt.

If you melt it and it doesn't have anywhere to run off to, you'll have a
skating rink in the morning...

And THAT would be a major plus!

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:51:23 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:41:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.



A large part of the difference may be that MOST of my customers over
the years had "preventative maintenance" done by me.

Only a stubborn few of my "regulars" ever ended up steel on steel

I had few regulars in the dealerships and bodyshop, so I had no input
to their habits, though I would have preferred it. It's easy to save
someone money when they throw it away due to lack of knowledge.


I did get lots of "walk-ins" over the years - but even then I replaced
a lot more rotors than drums, had a lot more "bonded" or "molded" pads
loose their frictionmaterial then I EVER had shoes loose theires,.

Early on, that (losing bond rather than wearing thru) was a problem
with disc pads.


ANd it's not metric vs SAE as my experience goes back to the late
sixties when everything was SAE up here too.

The original shoes and drums are still on my '96 Ranger rear axle at
358000km. On at LEAST the 4th set of pads and rotors This set should
last a bit longer since I "upsized" them from 10.15 to 11 inch.

New backing plates, drums, shoes, brake cylinders, etc?
I was shocked when they released the throw-away rotors: So thin from
the start that they'd warp if you hit them on the freeway, and too
thin to even turn once to correct the warp or minor scrape from late
pad replacement. They were expensive back then, too, but now they're
cheap as 'ell.


Amazing. I average 70k on pads new and in the past, and got maybe
100k on rear shoes in days of old. It has been a long while since
I've had front shoes, but I don't recall ever getting more than 40-50k
out of any.


Likely end up putting onthe new rear shoes purchased 7 years or so ago
this summer.

I just got ten years on both axles on the Tundra. Down to 4mm on the
front and 6 on the rear, but I figured that while I was checking, I'd
just go ahead and give it another ten years of life.

Aren't those Tundras something??? My brother has one that's 9 years
old now and other than oil changes he hasn't touched it. Tows a 20
something foot dual axle travel trailer with it

I had a low beam go out 4 years ago, so I put in some whiter bulbs and
really like them. Oil changes, a set of tires, and the brakes are all
I've done with it, too. Oh, there was the smog pump problem last year
which was covered by the extended warranty, thank God. ($1,700 worth)


And yes, I worked professionally as a mechenic for close to 3 decades

Under 20 years pro for me, and I was always in small towns. You
probably have the edge on big cities and time, for sure. How do salt
and snow affect braking systems? You have the edge there, too,
thankfully.

Salt and snow on drum brakes caused a minor ridge at the edge of the
drum, on disk brakes it rots the heck out of the rotors and the
sliders or pins on the calipers, and pops the lining material off the
pads. Sometimes it seized up the drum adjusters or rotted off a spring
- but not really what I'd call common.

Very common to rust the splash sheilds off the disks -

Mabee a BIG reason why your experience and mine differ so much.

Yes, very likely so. My wrench time was spent in balmy Southern
California weather, with a year in Aridzona. LOL.


No arguements at all on carbs!!!

I hope not. It was fun making a poor-running car purr again. But
about the time the CARB (California Air Resources Board came into
being and we were installing smog controls on cars and then attempting
to tune them that it got so bad. I still have a copy of my smog
license from that era, and the memory still stings. Make it purr and
the oxides of nitrogen go up. Make that go away and the hydrocarbons
go way up. And in the sage country of SoCal, the NOX was higher at
night with no traffic than the CARB allowed coming out the exhaust
pipe. No Win BS.


I used to sometimes set a car up to pass emissions, then when done,
reset the thing to run. Would not pass NOX in driveable configuration.
(Honda Civic VX was NOTORIOUS for that - they ran so lean the NOX went
through the roof - get them rich enough to pas NOX and the CO was
borderline and it didn't run worth a crap - and got bad mileage, but
it got a sticker for another 2 years..

Sacre bleu! Wouldn't that be illegal? snort Not many people dared
do that down in the Republik of Kalifornia with the CARB SS around.

Up here, particularly back then, as long as you didn't remove or
dissable a polution control part you were unlikely to get into
trouble.

2 work orders.

One work order for pre-emission checkup. I had gas analyzer but was
not a smog shop - could almost guarantee a pass or fail.

Second work order - correct driveability issues - rough idle, stalls
on decel, or some such thing - reset the timing or air bleed or
whatever to solve the problem - and you were done - and the customer
was happy to get another 2 years out of the car 'till the next
inspection. No "conditional pass" which was officially only available
ONCE

Cool.


Now any vehicle newer than 1997 doesn't even see a sniffer anymore.
If the OBD2 doesn't find a problem, you are GOLD. Depending on the
year you can even have either 1 or 2 monitors not set - so you can
sneak a surprizing amount of stuff through by keeping the tank either
full or below 1/4 tank, etc to keep the monitor from setting. Monitor
not set cannot report an error (such as a minor vapor emission leak,
or even sometimes a dead or dying catalyst. (my 2002 Taurus 4 cammer
has one empty catalyst and has gone as long as 6000km without turning
on a CEL)

Oh, that's cool. I hadn't thought what the computerization of smog
control would bring.

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 10:18:41 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:51:23 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:41:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.



A large part of the difference may be that MOST of my customers over
the years had "preventative maintenance" done by me.

Only a stubborn few of my "regulars" ever ended up steel on steel

I had few regulars in the dealerships and bodyshop, so I had no input
to their habits, though I would have preferred it. It's easy to save
someone money when they throw it away due to lack of knowledge.


I did get lots of "walk-ins" over the years - but even then I replaced
a lot more rotors than drums, had a lot more "bonded" or "molded" pads
loose their frictionmaterial then I EVER had shoes loose theires,.

Early on, that (losing bond rather than wearing thru) was a problem
with disc pads.


Still is.

ANd it's not metric vs SAE as my experience goes back to the late
sixties when everything was SAE up here too.

The original shoes and drums are still on my '96 Ranger rear axle at
358000km. On at LEAST the 4th set of pads and rotors This set should
last a bit longer since I "upsized" them from 10.15 to 11 inch.

New backing plates, drums, shoes, brake cylinders, etc?
I was shocked when they released the throw-away rotors: So thin from
the start that they'd warp if you hit them on the freeway, and too
thin to even turn once to correct the warp or minor scrape from late
pad replacement. They were expensive back then, too, but now they're
cheap as 'ell.


Amazing. I average 70k on pads new and in the past, and got maybe
100k on rear shoes in days of old. It has been a long while since
I've had front shoes, but I don't recall ever getting more than 40-50k
out of any.


Likely end up putting onthe new rear shoes purchased 7 years or so ago
this summer.

I just got ten years on both axles on the Tundra. Down to 4mm on the
front and 6 on the rear, but I figured that while I was checking, I'd
just go ahead and give it another ten years of life.

Aren't those Tundras something??? My brother has one that's 9 years
old now and other than oil changes he hasn't touched it. Tows a 20
something foot dual axle travel trailer with it

I had a low beam go out 4 years ago, so I put in some whiter bulbs and
really like them. Oil changes, a set of tires, and the brakes are all
I've done with it, too. Oh, there was the smog pump problem last year
which was covered by the extended warranty, thank God. ($1,700 worth)


And yes, I worked professionally as a mechenic for close to 3 decades

Under 20 years pro for me, and I was always in small towns. You
probably have the edge on big cities and time, for sure. How do salt
and snow affect braking systems? You have the edge there, too,
thankfully.

Salt and snow on drum brakes caused a minor ridge at the edge of the
drum, on disk brakes it rots the heck out of the rotors and the
sliders or pins on the calipers, and pops the lining material off the
pads. Sometimes it seized up the drum adjusters or rotted off a spring
- but not really what I'd call common.

Very common to rust the splash sheilds off the disks -

Mabee a BIG reason why your experience and mine differ so much.

Yes, very likely so. My wrench time was spent in balmy Southern
California weather, with a year in Aridzona. LOL.


No arguements at all on carbs!!!

I hope not. It was fun making a poor-running car purr again. But
about the time the CARB (California Air Resources Board came into
being and we were installing smog controls on cars and then attempting
to tune them that it got so bad. I still have a copy of my smog
license from that era, and the memory still stings. Make it purr and
the oxides of nitrogen go up. Make that go away and the hydrocarbons
go way up. And in the sage country of SoCal, the NOX was higher at
night with no traffic than the CARB allowed coming out the exhaust
pipe. No Win BS.


I used to sometimes set a car up to pass emissions, then when done,
reset the thing to run. Would not pass NOX in driveable configuration.
(Honda Civic VX was NOTORIOUS for that - they ran so lean the NOX went
through the roof - get them rich enough to pas NOX and the CO was
borderline and it didn't run worth a crap - and got bad mileage, but
it got a sticker for another 2 years..

Sacre bleu! Wouldn't that be illegal? snort Not many people dared
do that down in the Republik of Kalifornia with the CARB SS around.

Up here, particularly back then, as long as you didn't remove or
dissable a polution control part you were unlikely to get into
trouble.

2 work orders.

One work order for pre-emission checkup. I had gas analyzer but was
not a smog shop - could almost guarantee a pass or fail.

Second work order - correct driveability issues - rough idle, stalls
on decel, or some such thing - reset the timing or air bleed or
whatever to solve the problem - and you were done - and the customer
was happy to get another 2 years out of the car 'till the next
inspection. No "conditional pass" which was officially only available
ONCE

Cool.


Now any vehicle newer than 1997 doesn't even see a sniffer anymore.
If the OBD2 doesn't find a problem, you are GOLD. Depending on the
year you can even have either 1 or 2 monitors not set - so you can
sneak a surprizing amount of stuff through by keeping the tank either
full or below 1/4 tank, etc to keep the monitor from setting. Monitor
not set cannot report an error (such as a minor vapor emission leak,
or even sometimes a dead or dying catalyst. (my 2002 Taurus 4 cammer
has one empty catalyst and has gone as long as 6000km without turning
on a CEL)

Oh, that's cool. I hadn't thought what the computerization of smog
control would bring.

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 02:00:15 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 23:46:06 -0400, Gerry
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 23:56:06 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:25:33 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 9:54:47 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 09:01:42 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 21:10:40 -0400
Ed Huntress wrote:

snip
But I watched one guy with the controller in his hand, standing
outside directing the thing, bundled up in a heavy coat, gloves, and a
hood, and I thought...why? I'd be warmer walking behind. g

Some people don't think these things through too well. I know where _I_
would be while operating the controls

Heated sidewalks. That's what I want. I'd want something that, when
the old ladies walk by, it would melt the wheels on their walkers.

You need to move a bit closer to my area:

http://www.mlive.com/business/west-m...gest_snow.html

Yeah! That's what I want. All I need is a steam turbine...

--
Ed Huntress

If you had the steam, you could just melt the snow.

Good point. g

This 30 million BTU puppy melts snow as fast as you can dump it in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmDl_nETs8U

Now, that's getting there. It would be overkill for my little house
and yard in NJ, but I like the idea.

There really has to be a better way that just blowing it around. When
the snowplow goes down the street and pushes all the snow back up my
riveway, I know how Sisyphus must have felt.
I seldom have a problem with the city plow filling my driveway. I
keep the snow right back to the curb all the way to my nieghbours
driveway plus the last twenty feet I run the blower on top of the curb
to give me a place for garbage and recycling containers. A few years
back the guys on bobcats clearing catchbasins thought this was a
wonderful place to pile thier surplus but the foreman in the city
pickup soon set them straight and had them haul it across to the city
park up the street. I also clear back to the curb around the corner
from my driveway so the plow operator doesn't have to guess where it
is. It only takes a few minutes and saves me a lot of headaches.
Besides, I enjoy playing outside in the winter!

That gives you an unfair advantage. If I ever find myself enjoying
playing outside in the winter again, I'll give it a try.


A 10HP snow blower helps a lot with attitude, thanks to SWMBO !

I thought about bracing a sheet of plywood with a couple of 2 x 4ss,
right at the endge of the curb, but I figure they'll just give it a
wide berth and shove a wall of snow up against it, anyway.

A few years ago. I just stood out there with a snow shovel and looked
pathetic when they were plowing the street. They know me; they're the
same guys who pick up our trash, and my wife and I give them a big box
of cookies at Christmas time.

So the guy went by, pushing the snow up to the end of my driveway, but
when he came back (I live on a short dead-end street) he drove all the
way across the street to push it *away* from my driveway.

Maybe I should just stand out there and look like I'm having a heart
attack.

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 14:34:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 10:18:41 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:51:23 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:41:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.



A large part of the difference may be that MOST of my customers over
the years had "preventative maintenance" done by me.

Only a stubborn few of my "regulars" ever ended up steel on steel

I had few regulars in the dealerships and bodyshop, so I had no input
to their habits, though I would have preferred it. It's easy to save
someone money when they throw it away due to lack of knowledge.


I did get lots of "walk-ins" over the years - but even then I replaced
a lot more rotors than drums, had a lot more "bonded" or "molded" pads
loose their frictionmaterial then I EVER had shoes loose theires,.

Early on, that (losing bond rather than wearing thru) was a problem
with disc pads.


Still is.

That's surprising. Granted, I've been out of the field for a long
time, but I haven't known anyone to personally experience it since the
late '60s, nor have I read of recalls. How widespread is it? Import
or domestic mfgrs?

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Tue, 27 Mar 2018 11:14:25 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 14:34:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 10:18:41 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:51:23 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:41:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.



A large part of the difference may be that MOST of my customers over
the years had "preventative maintenance" done by me.

Only a stubborn few of my "regulars" ever ended up steel on steel

I had few regulars in the dealerships and bodyshop, so I had no input
to their habits, though I would have preferred it. It's easy to save
someone money when they throw it away due to lack of knowledge.


I did get lots of "walk-ins" over the years - but even then I replaced
a lot more rotors than drums, had a lot more "bonded" or "molded" pads
loose their frictionmaterial then I EVER had shoes loose theires,.

Early on, that (losing bond rather than wearing thru) was a problem
with disc pads.


Still is.

That's surprising. Granted, I've been out of the field for a long
time, but I haven't known anyone to personally experience it since the
late '60s, nor have I read of recalls. How widespread is it? Import
or domestic mfgrs?
Still happens on both imports and domestics - again likely a salt
related issue. Not REAL common but I imagine any garage doing a fair
amount of brake work up here sees at LEAST 2 or 3 a year.

I'm "out of the trade" now for years but still consult and help
friends and in the last 5 years I have seen at least 2. (one on a
Chevy Lumina -2 out of 4 pads separated).

On Tue, 27 Mar 2018 16:52:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Mar 2018 11:14:25 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 14:34:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 10:18:41 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:51:23 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:41:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.



A large part of the difference may be that MOST of my customers over
the years had "preventative maintenance" done by me.

Only a stubborn few of my "regulars" ever ended up steel on steel

I had few regulars in the dealerships and bodyshop, so I had no input
to their habits, though I would have preferred it. It's easy to save
someone money when they throw it away due to lack of knowledge.


I did get lots of "walk-ins" over the years - but even then I replaced
a lot more rotors than drums, had a lot more "bonded" or "molded" pads
loose their frictionmaterial then I EVER had shoes loose theires,.

Early on, that (losing bond rather than wearing thru) was a problem
with disc pads.


Still is.

That's surprising. Granted, I've been out of the field for a long
time, but I haven't known anyone to personally experience it since the
late '60s, nor have I read of recalls. How widespread is it? Import
or domestic mfgrs?
Still happens on both imports and domestics - again likely a salt
related issue. Not REAL common but I imagine any garage doing a fair
amount of brake work up here sees at LEAST 2 or 3 a year.

I'm "out of the trade" now for years but still consult and help
friends and in the last 5 years I have seen at least 2. (one on a
Chevy Lumina -2 out of 4 pads separated).

It's probably a combination of sub-zero temps to high-temp changes
combined with the salts up there. I'm glad I don't have to contend
with all that. I worked on mostly dry cars with no rust to speak of.

The one time I had to work under a truck which was dripping on me was
to run a new wiring loom to the tail of a full, reeking garbage truck.
Had to change into new clothes before returning to work. So, as to
ice, salt, or garbage juice, everyone else can have it, thanks.
Thank you, Fallbrook Refuse (SoCal, avocado capital of the world), for
the not so fond memories and the wonderful avos.

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Wed, 28 Mar 2018 07:29:32 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Mar 2018 16:52:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Mar 2018 11:14:25 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 14:34:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 10:18:41 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:51:23 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:41:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.



A large part of the difference may be that MOST of my customers over
the years had "preventative maintenance" done by me.

Only a stubborn few of my "regulars" ever ended up steel on steel

I had few regulars in the dealerships and bodyshop, so I had no input
to their habits, though I would have preferred it. It's easy to save
someone money when they throw it away due to lack of knowledge.


I did get lots of "walk-ins" over the years - but even then I replaced
a lot more rotors than drums, had a lot more "bonded" or "molded" pads
loose their frictionmaterial then I EVER had shoes loose theires,.

Early on, that (losing bond rather than wearing thru) was a problem
with disc pads.


Still is.

That's surprising. Granted, I've been out of the field for a long
time, but I haven't known anyone to personally experience it since the
late '60s, nor have I read of recalls. How widespread is it? Import
or domestic mfgrs?
Still happens on both imports and domestics - again likely a salt
related issue. Not REAL common but I imagine any garage doing a fair
amount of brake work up here sees at LEAST 2 or 3 a year.

I'm "out of the trade" now for years but still consult and help
friends and in the last 5 years I have seen at least 2. (one on a
Chevy Lumina -2 out of 4 pads separated).

It's probably a combination of sub-zero temps to high-temp changes
combined with the salts up there. I'm glad I don't have to contend
with all that. I worked on mostly dry cars with no rust to speak of.

The one time I had to work under a truck which was dripping on me was
to run a new wiring loom to the tail of a full, reeking garbage truck.
Had to change into new clothes before returning to work. So, as to
ice, salt, or garbage juice, everyone else can have it, thanks.
Thank you, Fallbrook Refuse (SoCal, avocado capital of the world), for
the not so fond memories and the wonderful avos.


You want to try changing a tire or repairing the apron chain on an
old **** spreader - - - - Or on a chain type gutter cleaner - - - .
Or fix the hydraulics on a pig-farmer's loader tractor in the feild.
In she shop you have the option of using old HOTSY to blast the crap
off - but not on the field.

The dripping salt water coming off vehicles while you are working on
them is one thing I did NOT miss about my mid-life carreer change!!

On Wed, 28 Mar 2018 15:09:00 -0400
Clare Snyder wrote:

snip
You want to try changing a tire or repairing the apron chain on an
old **** spreader

Hmm... that made me smile. They always broke while loaded and most
often during the winter. They would freeze to the deck. Did my share of
forking off the load so the broken chain could be fixed

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b

On Wed, 28 Mar 2018 15:09:00 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 28 Mar 2018 07:29:32 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Mar 2018 16:52:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Mar 2018 11:14:25 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 14:34:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 10:18:41 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:51:23 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:41:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.



A large part of the difference may be that MOST of my customers over
the years had "preventative maintenance" done by me.

Only a stubborn few of my "regulars" ever ended up steel on steel

I had few regulars in the dealerships and bodyshop, so I had no input
to their habits, though I would have preferred it. It's easy to save
someone money when they throw it away due to lack of knowledge.


I did get lots of "walk-ins" over the years - but even then I replaced
a lot more rotors than drums, had a lot more "bonded" or "molded" pads
loose their frictionmaterial then I EVER had shoes loose theires,.

Early on, that (losing bond rather than wearing thru) was a problem
with disc pads.


Still is.

That's surprising. Granted, I've been out of the field for a long
time, but I haven't known anyone to personally experience it since the
late '60s, nor have I read of recalls. How widespread is it? Import
or domestic mfgrs?
Still happens on both imports and domestics - again likely a salt
related issue. Not REAL common but I imagine any garage doing a fair
amount of brake work up here sees at LEAST 2 or 3 a year.

I'm "out of the trade" now for years but still consult and help
friends and in the last 5 years I have seen at least 2. (one on a
Chevy Lumina -2 out of 4 pads separated).

It's probably a combination of sub-zero temps to high-temp changes
combined with the salts up there. I'm glad I don't have to contend
with all that. I worked on mostly dry cars with no rust to speak of.

Oh, darn. I forgot to put in the NEENER NEENER there.


The one time I had to work under a truck which was dripping on me was
to run a new wiring loom to the tail of a full, reeking garbage truck.
Had to change into new clothes before returning to work. So, as to
ice, salt, or garbage juice, everyone else can have it, thanks.
Thank you, Fallbrook Refuse (SoCal, avocado capital of the world), for
the not so fond memories and the wonderful avos.


You want to try changing a tire or repairing the apron chain on an
old **** spreader - - - - Or on a chain type gutter cleaner - - - .
Or fix the hydraulics on a pig-farmer's loader tractor in the feild.
In she shop you have the option of using old HOTSY to blast the crap
off - but not on the field.

The dripping salt water coming off vehicles while you are working on
them is one thing I did NOT miss about my mid-life carreer change!!

I can grok all that after the garbage truck. I'd want an
air-conditioned, air-fed hazmat suit to do it today.

--
"I have noticed even people who claim everything is predestined
and that we can do nothing to change it look before they cross
the road." --Steven Hawking

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 18:27:20 +1100, Jon Anderson
wrote:

On 25/03/2018 2:56 PM, Ed Huntress wrote:

There really has to be a better way that just blowing it around. When
the snowplow goes down the street and pushes all the snow back up my
driveway, I know how Sisyphus must have felt.

If you melt it and it doesn't have anywhere to run off to, you'll have a
skating rink in the morning...
I think fresh snow in the country is one of the prettiest sights. But
had my fill of it in Grass Valley, and will be quite happy if I can live
out my life down under without ever again having to lift a shovel full
of snow.

Jon


Thats one of the reasons I live in Californias high desert.

I grew up in Michigans Upper Penninsula


---
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Now any vehicle newer than 1997 doesn't even see a sniffer anymore.
If the OBD2 doesn't find a problem, you are GOLD. Depending on the
year you can even have either 1 or 2 monitors not set - so you can
sneak a surprizing amount of stuff through by keeping the tank either
full or below 1/4 tank, etc to keep the monitor from setting. Monitor
not set cannot report an error (such as a minor vapor emission leak,
or even sometimes a dead or dying catalyst. (my 2002 Taurus 4 cammer
has one empty catalyst and has gone as long as 6000km without turning
on a CEL)


Ive got a question for you Engine Mavins:

Moby Dick..the 1989 E350 van (just checked..odo shows 15,895.1
miles..wife has been driving it) has a flickering check engine light
when cruising down the road. No load..mostly on the flat and level at
about 45-65 mph.

NO codes..none..nada..nothing is showing up on my Acton OBD1 reader.
Says everything is hunky dorey. She passed smog just fine as well
about 6 months ago.

Any idea what to check?

Getting this 1988 F-150 to go with it..is interesting. Many of the
same parts were used, despite it being a 302. So I had no issues
doing a lil tune up last week during a couple evenings.


---
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Wed, 28 Mar 2018 15:09:00 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Wed, 28 Mar 2018 07:29:32 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Mar 2018 16:52:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 27 Mar 2018 11:14:25 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 14:34:32 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 10:18:41 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:51:23 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:41:22 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:35:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

Likewize - but the FIRST stop with a Drum brake is every bit as
good as the first stop on a disk - and generally has lower drag.

There are 2 too many IFs with that: If it's not wet. If it's not
glazed. Disc pads don't glaze and are less prone to warpage, too, so
it only endears me to them more.

Beg to differ on the glazing. Certain pads are VERY bad fo grlazing -

Thinking back, I can't say that I have ever experienced that problem,
professionally or personally.


And drums most often outlived rotors under "normal" use. Very seldom
suffered pitting - and under "normal" use seldom warped.

I think our differences may lie in SAE vs Metric equipment. Our drums
may have been thinner than yours, and our rotors thicker. I recall at
least a 2:1 difference in replacement. Most of the replacements I did
for customers was from their grinding off the rivets, shoes, or pad
backers with their drums and rotors, running 150% of life. One
caliper cup was damaged when the pad fell out. Those people scare me,
and they're out there on the roads right now. I heard our paper girl
drive by the other day, the metal-on-metal brakes squealing as she
stopped at every house. That's like fingernails-on-a-blackboard to
me.



A large part of the difference may be that MOST of my customers over
the years had "preventative maintenance" done by me.

Only a stubborn few of my "regulars" ever ended up steel on steel

I had few regulars in the dealerships and bodyshop, so I had no input
to their habits, though I would have preferred it. It's easy to save
someone money when they throw it away due to lack of knowledge.


I did get lots of "walk-ins" over the years - but even then I replaced
a lot more rotors than drums, had a lot more "bonded" or "molded" pads
loose their frictionmaterial then I EVER had shoes loose theires,.

Early on, that (losing bond rather than wearing thru) was a problem
with disc pads.


Still is.

That's surprising. Granted, I've been out of the field for a long
time, but I haven't known anyone to personally experience it since the
late '60s, nor have I read of recalls. How widespread is it? Import
or domestic mfgrs?
Still happens on both imports and domestics - again likely a salt
related issue. Not REAL common but I imagine any garage doing a fair
amount of brake work up here sees at LEAST 2 or 3 a year.

I'm "out of the trade" now for years but still consult and help
friends and in the last 5 years I have seen at least 2. (one on a
Chevy Lumina -2 out of 4 pads separated).

It's probably a combination of sub-zero temps to high-temp changes
combined with the salts up there. I'm glad I don't have to contend
with all that. I worked on mostly dry cars with no rust to speak of.

The one time I had to work under a truck which was dripping on me was
to run a new wiring loom to the tail of a full, reeking garbage truck.
Had to change into new clothes before returning to work. So, as to
ice, salt, or garbage juice, everyone else can have it, thanks.
Thank you, Fallbrook Refuse (SoCal, avocado capital of the world), for
the not so fond memories and the wonderful avos.


You want to try changing a tire or repairing the apron chain on an
old **** spreader - - - - Or on a chain type gutter cleaner - - - .
Or fix the hydraulics on a pig-farmer's loader tractor in the feild.
In she shop you have the option of using old HOTSY to blast the crap
off - but not on the field.

The dripping salt water coming off vehicles while you are working on
them is one thing I did NOT miss about my mid-life carreer change!!


You gentlemen may really enjoy a channel on YouTube put up by a Texas
boy...

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJA...b5sg79yld7T3hA

They are quite good, easy to watch, he does good work and admits his
mistakes..and doesnt think he can walk on water. Ive subscribed to his
channel a month ago and enjoy going through his videos.

Gunner

---
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On Sun, 01 Apr 2018 19:44:08 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:


Now any vehicle newer than 1997 doesn't even see a sniffer anymore.
If the OBD2 doesn't find a problem, you are GOLD. Depending on the
year you can even have either 1 or 2 monitors not set - so you can
sneak a surprizing amount of stuff through by keeping the tank either
full or below 1/4 tank, etc to keep the monitor from setting. Monitor
not set cannot report an error (such as a minor vapor emission leak,
or even sometimes a dead or dying catalyst. (my 2002 Taurus 4 cammer
has one empty catalyst and has gone as long as 6000km without turning
on a CEL)


Ive got a question for you Engine Mavins:

Moby Dick..the 1989 E350 van (just checked..odo shows 15,895.1
miles..wife has been driving it) has a flickering check engine light
when cruising down the road. No load..mostly on the flat and level at
about 45-65 mph.

NO codes..none..nada..nothing is showing up on my Acton OBD1 reader.
Says everything is hunky dorey. She passed smog just fine as well
about 6 months ago.

Any idea what to check?

Getting this 1988 F-150 to go with it..is interesting. Many of the
same parts were used, despite it being a 302. So I had no issues
doing a lil tune up last week during a couple evenings.


---
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus


Check the charging system. On some of the old EEC IV systems the
check engine will come on with bad charging system.

Could also be a bad ground wire (had that happenon Pontiac TranSport.

On Sun, 01 Apr 2018 23:18:19 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Apr 2018 19:44:08 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:


Now any vehicle newer than 1997 doesn't even see a sniffer anymore.
If the OBD2 doesn't find a problem, you are GOLD. Depending on the
year you can even have either 1 or 2 monitors not set - so you can
sneak a surprizing amount of stuff through by keeping the tank either
full or below 1/4 tank, etc to keep the monitor from setting. Monitor
not set cannot report an error (such as a minor vapor emission leak,
or even sometimes a dead or dying catalyst. (my 2002 Taurus 4 cammer
has one empty catalyst and has gone as long as 6000km without turning
on a CEL)


Ive got a question for you Engine Mavins:

Moby Dick..the 1989 E350 van (just checked..odo shows 15,895.1
miles..wife has been driving it) has a flickering check engine light
when cruising down the road. No load..mostly on the flat and level at
about 45-65 mph.

NO codes..none..nada..nothing is showing up on my Acton OBD1 reader.
Says everything is hunky dorey. She passed smog just fine as well
about 6 months ago.

Any idea what to check?

Getting this 1988 F-150 to go with it..is interesting. Many of the
same parts were used, despite it being a 302. So I had no issues
doing a lil tune up last week during a couple evenings.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


Check the charging system. On some of the old EEC IV systems the
check engine will come on with bad charging system.

Its got dual batteries. Engine cranking and lights run from the
passenger side battery..all else runs off the drivers side battery.
Everything seems to be working fine.

there is a second "starter solenoid relay" that engages the second
"accessory" battery when the engine is running...adding the second
battery to the first so that it charges. When engine/key is off..the
relay is not engaged and it does not connect the second battery to the
first..so if the second battery fails or runs down due to use..it
still allows you to start the vehicle on the first battery.

Could also be a bad ground wire (had that happenon Pontiac TranSport.

There are a **** load of grounds..both in the engine compartment,
under the dash and on the frame. I've cleaned/tightened all of them I
could find. No joy as of yet.

Thanks for the help btw. Much appreciated. Since John died..I've been
having to fix this stuff..and finding that he made a number of bad
calls and bad repairs. sigh.

On Mon, 02 Apr 2018 02:39:20 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Apr 2018 23:18:19 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Apr 2018 19:44:08 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:


Now any vehicle newer than 1997 doesn't even see a sniffer anymore.
If the OBD2 doesn't find a problem, you are GOLD. Depending on the
year you can even have either 1 or 2 monitors not set - so you can
sneak a surprizing amount of stuff through by keeping the tank either
full or below 1/4 tank, etc to keep the monitor from setting. Monitor
not set cannot report an error (such as a minor vapor emission leak,
or even sometimes a dead or dying catalyst. (my 2002 Taurus 4 cammer
has one empty catalyst and has gone as long as 6000km without turning
on a CEL)


Ive got a question for you Engine Mavins:

Moby Dick..the 1989 E350 van (just checked..odo shows 15,895.1
miles..wife has been driving it) has a flickering check engine light
when cruising down the road. No load..mostly on the flat and level at
about 45-65 mph.

NO codes..none..nada..nothing is showing up on my Acton OBD1 reader.
Says everything is hunky dorey. She passed smog just fine as well
about 6 months ago.

Any idea what to check?

Getting this 1988 F-150 to go with it..is interesting. Many of the
same parts were used, despite it being a 302. So I had no issues
doing a lil tune up last week during a couple evenings.


---
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Check the charging system. On some of the old EEC IV systems the
check engine will come on with bad charging system.

Its got dual batteries. Engine cranking and lights run from the
passenger side battery..all else runs off the drivers side battery.

Coach battery

Everything seems to be working fine.

The EGR position sensor on an '88 Ford will cause that problem, and
being "OBD1" - or technically EEC IV, it will not necessarily throw or
hold a code..

Check the connections on the EGR - also check to be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN
there are no vacuum leaks in the EGR control system. Perhaps remove
the EGR valve and clean the heck out of it. The postion sensor may be
mis-reading the position, or the valve may actually be sticking

there is a second "starter solenoid relay" that engages the second
"accessory" battery when the engine is running...adding the second
battery to the first so that it charges. When engine/key is off..the
relay is not engaged and it does not connect the second battery to the
first..so if the second battery fails or runs down due to use..it
still allows you to start the vehicle on the first battery.


Put your 'scope on the alternator output and check to be sure the
output is constant. NOT LIKELY, but possibly the brushes are jumping
and the charge is intermittent - which on SOME vehicles will screw
with the CEL.
Could also be a bad ground wire (had that happenon Pontiac TranSport.

There are a **** load of grounds..both in the engine compartment,
under the dash and on the frame. I've cleaned/tightened all of them I
could find. No joy as of yet.

Thanks for the help btw. Much appreciated. Since John died..I've been
having to fix this stuff..and finding that he made a number of bad
calls and bad repairs. sigh.

On Mon, 02 Apr 2018 12:05:26 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Apr 2018 02:39:20 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Apr 2018 23:18:19 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Apr 2018 19:44:08 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:


Now any vehicle newer than 1997 doesn't even see a sniffer anymore.
If the OBD2 doesn't find a problem, you are GOLD. Depending on the
year you can even have either 1 or 2 monitors not set - so you can
sneak a surprizing amount of stuff through by keeping the tank either
full or below 1/4 tank, etc to keep the monitor from setting. Monitor
not set cannot report an error (such as a minor vapor emission leak,
or even sometimes a dead or dying catalyst. (my 2002 Taurus 4 cammer
has one empty catalyst and has gone as long as 6000km without turning
on a CEL)


Ive got a question for you Engine Mavins:

Moby Dick..the 1989 E350 van (just checked..odo shows 15,895.1
miles..wife has been driving it) has a flickering check engine light
when cruising down the road. No load..mostly on the flat and level at
about 45-65 mph.

NO codes..none..nada..nothing is showing up on my Acton OBD1 reader.
Says everything is hunky dorey. She passed smog just fine as well
about 6 months ago.

Any idea what to check?

Getting this 1988 F-150 to go with it..is interesting. Many of the
same parts were used, despite it being a 302. So I had no issues
doing a lil tune up last week during a couple evenings.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


Check the charging system. On some of the old EEC IV systems the
check engine will come on with bad charging system.

Its got dual batteries. Engine cranking and lights run from the
passenger side battery..all else runs off the drivers side battery.

Coach battery

Everything seems to be working fine.

The EGR position sensor on an '88 Ford will cause that problem, and
being "OBD1" - or technically EEC IV, it will not necessarily throw or
hold a code..

Check the connections on the EGR - also check to be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN
there are no vacuum leaks in the EGR control system. Perhaps remove
the EGR valve and clean the heck out of it. The postion sensor may be
mis-reading the position, or the valve may actually be sticking

Thanks! Ill check that.

I dont know if John had replaced the EGR valve or not. We went to the
wrecking yard and he stripped off a bunch of parts from an identical
van with the 351W engine and installed some of them. Some...maybe...I
think.


there is a second "starter solenoid relay" that engages the second
"accessory" battery when the engine is running...adding the second
battery to the first so that it charges. When engine/key is off..the
relay is not engaged and it does not connect the second battery to the
first..so if the second battery fails or runs down due to use..it
still allows you to start the vehicle on the first battery.


Put your 'scope on the alternator output and check to be sure the
output is constant. NOT LIKELY, but possibly the brushes are jumping
and the charge is intermittent - which on SOME vehicles will screw
with the CEL.

Checked that...everything is working fine visa vis the alternator.
No spikes, nulls or low volts.


Could also be a bad ground wire (had that happenon Pontiac TranSport.

There are a **** load of grounds..both in the engine compartment,
under the dash and on the frame. I've cleaned/tightened all of them I
could find. No joy as of yet.

Thanks for the help btw. Much appreciated. Since John died..I've been
having to fix this stuff..and finding that he made a number of bad
calls and bad repairs. sigh.


I got the Solus Pro scanner (EESC316) that I bought for him but all
the code keys I paid for are missing except for the K13A key. I also
bought a OBD1 adapter for it..but it needs to be powered up
externally..so I have to determine if its center hot and then buy a
matching plug.

Any idea of the polarity of Snapon electronics? Sigh...

I think this may..may read any missing codes..if I can figure out how
to use it. According to John..no keys were necessary for OBD1

The battery pack is missing as is any power cable for the
reader..unless it pulls power from the test plug

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 02 Apr 2018 12:05:26 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Mon, 02 Apr 2018 02:39:20 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:

On Sun, 01 Apr 2018 23:18:19 -0400, Clare Snyder

wrote:

On Sun, 01 Apr 2018 19:44:08 -0700, Gunner Asch

wrote:


Now any vehicle newer than 1997 doesn't even see a sniffer
anymore.
If the OBD2 doesn't find a problem, you are GOLD. Depending on
the
year you can even have either 1 or 2 monitors not set - so you
can
sneak a surprizing amount of stuff through by keeping the tank
either
full or below 1/4 tank, etc to keep the monitor from setting.
Monitor
not set cannot report an error (such as a minor vapor emission
leak,
or even sometimes a dead or dying catalyst. (my 2002 Taurus 4
cammer
has one empty catalyst and has gone as long as 6000km without
turning
on a CEL)


Ive got a question for you Engine Mavins:

Moby Dick..the 1989 E350 van (just checked..odo shows 15,895.1
miles..wife has been driving it) has a flickering check engine
light
when cruising down the road. No load..mostly on the flat and
level at
about 45-65 mph.

NO codes..none..nada..nothing is showing up on my Acton OBD1
reader.
Says everything is hunky dorey. She passed smog just fine as well
about 6 months ago.

Any idea what to check?

Getting this 1988 F-150 to go with it..is interesting. Many of
the
same parts were used, despite it being a 302. So I had no issues
doing a lil tune up last week during a couple evenings.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


Check the charging system. On some of the old EEC IV systems the
check engine will come on with bad charging system.

Its got dual batteries. Engine cranking and lights run from the
passenger side battery..all else runs off the drivers side battery.

Coach battery

Everything seems to be working fine.

The EGR position sensor on an '88 Ford will cause that problem, and
being "OBD1" - or technically EEC IV, it will not necessarily throw
or
hold a code..

Check the connections on the EGR - also check to be ABSOLUTELY
CERTAIN
there are no vacuum leaks in the EGR control system. Perhaps remove
the EGR valve and clean the heck out of it. The postion sensor may
be
mis-reading the position, or the valve may actually be sticking

Thanks! Ill check that.

I dont know if John had replaced the EGR valve or not. We went to
the
wrecking yard and he stripped off a bunch of parts from an identical
van with the 351W engine and installed some of them.
Some...maybe...I
think.


there is a second "starter solenoid relay" that engages the second
"accessory" battery when the engine is running...adding the second
battery to the first so that it charges. When engine/key is
off..the
relay is not engaged and it does not connect the second battery to
the
first..so if the second battery fails or runs down due to use..it
still allows you to start the vehicle on the first battery.


Put your 'scope on the alternator output and check to be sure the
output is constant. NOT LIKELY, but possibly the brushes are jumping
and the charge is intermittent - which on SOME vehicles will screw
with the CEL.

Checked that...everything is working fine visa vis the alternator.
No spikes, nulls or low volts.


Could also be a bad ground wire (had that happenon Pontiac
TranSport.

There are a **** load of grounds..both in the engine compartment,
under the dash and on the frame. I've cleaned/tightened all of them
I
could find. No joy as of yet.

Thanks for the help btw. Much appreciated. Since John died..I've
been
having to fix this stuff..and finding that he made a number of bad
calls and bad repairs. sigh.


I got the Solus Pro scanner (EESC316) that I bought for him but all
the code keys I paid for are missing except for the K13A key. I also
bought a OBD1 adapter for it..but it needs to be powered up
externally..so I have to determine if its center hot and then buy a
matching plug.

Any idea of the polarity of Snapon electronics? Sigh...

I think this may..may read any missing codes..if I can figure out
how
to use it. According to John..no keys were necessary for OBD1

The battery pack is missing as is any power cable for the
reader..unless it pulls power from the test plug


I have a code reader that plugs into the test connector behind the
engine fuse box, but there's a way to view the EEC-IV codes without
one, by counting CEL flashes.
-jsw