"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 07:58:02 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old putty
and tap in the glazier's points.

I bought a urethane mallet when I was doing some carving work and
will
use that 10 out of 11 times instead of a hammer. (Nails get a
hammer,
almost everything else gets the nice mallet.) Try one and tell me
what you think. My 12oz brass carving mallet also seems to work
well
for driving shear and roll pins.

http://tinyurl.com/z5lw9w8 and http://tinyurl.com/jf66ol2
Prices sure have climbed since I bought mine!

I hung a plastic hammer beside the mill and another beside the lathe.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 07:58:02 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old putty
and tap in the glazier's points.

I bought a urethane mallet when I was doing some carving work and will
use that 10 out of 11 times instead of a hammer. (Nails get a hammer,
almost everything else gets the nice mallet.) Try one and tell me
what you think. My 12oz brass carving mallet also seems to work well
for driving shear and roll pins.

http://tinyurl.com/z5lw9w8 and http://tinyurl.com/jf66ol2
Prices sure have climbed since I bought mine!

I hung a plastic hammer beside the mill and another beside the lathe.

I like a plastic dead blow hammer for seating stuff in the vise that has to
be clamped hard for the task at hand. One hangs over my assembley bench,
and another hangs on the end of the tool cart for the Hurco Mill.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

Maybe our local red oaks resist our local fungus better.

That's only the lower heartwood. The sapwood on upper branches is
often infested with brown jelly-like "Tree-Ear" fungus that rots it
quickly.

On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 10:37:28 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"John B." wrote in message
news
On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 21:26:18 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
m...
On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 12:32:14 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

John B. wrote:

John Doe wrote:
whit3rd wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Using 6061 3/8" thick aluminum to hold the front sprocket on a
bicycle.

A 1/2 inch square hole through 3/8 inch thick aluminum fits
over
the bottom bracket square tapered spindle.

Why can't you use a proper crank with spider that takes
replaceable
ring gears?

Because I'm using a 450 max RPM motor to turn the
sprocket/chainring.
The chainring must be extraordinarily small, like 14 to 18 teeth.
There are no crankssets with chainrings that small. That, plus I
wouldn't want/need the extra hardware.

Inner chain rings on a triple often are in the 20-something tooth
range. I'm looking at a 24 tooth at the moment and there is easily
enough meat there to go to 20 teeth and maybe even smaller.

Even if it could be down to 20 teeth, it wouldn't work for my
application.

If there were an easier way to do it, I would have found it. I
already
have turned the other three parts of making an electric bike into
ridiculously easy tasks (with hardly any tools). Easily cutting a
square
hole through an appropriate piece of metal would make it all four.

One can only speculate, "is your way the best way"?
--
Cheers,
John B.

"If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail".

True, but all problems aren't nails. I think that you'll have problems
installing window glass with your hammer.
--

Cheers,

John B.

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old putty and
tap in the glazier's points.


I was going to say the same thing as I have glazed windows before myself.

Perhaps my example was poorly selected as a hammer is certainly
effective for removing the glass :-)

But "glazers points"? I always just pushed them in with a flat
screwdriver.
--

Cheers,

John B.

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 07:39:16 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 10:37:28 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"John B." wrote in message
news On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 21:26:18 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
om...
On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 12:32:14 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

John B. wrote:

John Doe wrote:
whit3rd wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Using 6061 3/8" thick aluminum to hold the front sprocket on a
bicycle.

A 1/2 inch square hole through 3/8 inch thick aluminum fits
over
the bottom bracket square tapered spindle.

Why can't you use a proper crank with spider that takes
replaceable
ring gears?

Because I'm using a 450 max RPM motor to turn the
sprocket/chainring.
The chainring must be extraordinarily small, like 14 to 18 teeth.
There are no crankssets with chainrings that small. That, plus I
wouldn't want/need the extra hardware.

Inner chain rings on a triple often are in the 20-something tooth
range. I'm looking at a 24 tooth at the moment and there is easily
enough meat there to go to 20 teeth and maybe even smaller.

Even if it could be down to 20 teeth, it wouldn't work for my
application.

If there were an easier way to do it, I would have found it. I
already
have turned the other three parts of making an electric bike into
ridiculously easy tasks (with hardly any tools). Easily cutting a
square
hole through an appropriate piece of metal would make it all four.

One can only speculate, "is your way the best way"?
--
Cheers,
John B.

"If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail".

True, but all problems aren't nails. I think that you'll have problems
installing window glass with your hammer.
--

Cheers,

John B.

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old putty and
tap in the glazier's points.


I was going to say the same thing as I have glazed windows before myself.

Perhaps my example was poorly selected as a hammer is certainly
effective for removing the glass :-)

But "glazers points"? I always just pushed them in with a flat
screwdriver.

These are modern glazier's points:

http://hydestore.com/hyde-tools-4576...okh godMhgGwg

You can push them in with a screwdriver if the wood isn't too hard.
Or, I suppose, you could tap them in with a cold chisel and a small
hammer.

On the link below you see the old diamond-shaped points. I don't know,
because my house was built in 1924 and a pack of these -- probably
several thousand -- were part of an ancient pack of maintenance tools
that the builder left for posterity:

http://www.amazon.com/Fletcher-Terry.../dp/B000KKPFZA

The driving tool can be seen if you scroll down that page.

My tool probably also dates from the 1920s. It looks like a
screwdriver except that it has the "V" shape that you see on the tool
on the page above. For production glazing, there was also a
spring-loaded driver that actuated like a manual staple gun.

I've pushed in a few hundred of those. If you tried using a hammer,
you'd probably break the window glass, because you have to hold the
tool firmly down against the glass, or the point slips under the tool.

--
Ed Huntress

whit3rd wrote:

Bob La Londe wrote:
"whit3rd" wrote

It might be beneficial to replace the chain drive entirely, with a
worm drive located at the driven axle.

One more set of gearing to rob from the BHP number at the rear wheel.
A chain drive or belt drive are much less parasitic.

Not so; the entire power-drill gearbox and the long mechanical
connection from crank to driven wheel all go away. It's my impression
that the better powered bicycles use hub motors,

Depends on what you mean by "better". It has advantages and
disadvantages. If you want a hub motor powered electric bicycle, buy
one. But apparently they have little low-end torque. Even my current
underpowered drill powered bicycle has lots of low-end torque, just a
slow top speed.

On YouTube, there is an expensive hub motor powered electric bike that
requires peddling when going uphill...

You don't want an electric motor to move as slow as a bicycle wheel.
Chain ratios aren't extreme enough.

It's more complex than that. Sounds like you aren't familiar enough with
the subject.

whit3rd wrote:

It's my impression that the better powered bicycles use hub motors,
and presumably planetary gearing.

Your impression? Presumably? It takes a few seconds to research that...

On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 22:03:50 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 07:39:16 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 10:37:28 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"John B." wrote in message
news On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 21:26:18 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
news:vaptgb5pis8egbpb763kn9ulf17fp5udvi@4ax. com...
On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 12:32:14 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

John B. wrote:

John Doe wrote:
whit3rd wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Using 6061 3/8" thick aluminum to hold the front sprocket on a
bicycle.

A 1/2 inch square hole through 3/8 inch thick aluminum fits
over
the bottom bracket square tapered spindle.

Why can't you use a proper crank with spider that takes
replaceable
ring gears?

Because I'm using a 450 max RPM motor to turn the
sprocket/chainring.
The chainring must be extraordinarily small, like 14 to 18 teeth.
There are no crankssets with chainrings that small. That, plus I
wouldn't want/need the extra hardware.

Inner chain rings on a triple often are in the 20-something tooth
range. I'm looking at a 24 tooth at the moment and there is easily
enough meat there to go to 20 teeth and maybe even smaller.

Even if it could be down to 20 teeth, it wouldn't work for my
application.

If there were an easier way to do it, I would have found it. I
already
have turned the other three parts of making an electric bike into
ridiculously easy tasks (with hardly any tools). Easily cutting a
square
hole through an appropriate piece of metal would make it all four.

One can only speculate, "is your way the best way"?
--
Cheers,
John B.

"If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail".

True, but all problems aren't nails. I think that you'll have problems
installing window glass with your hammer.
--

Cheers,

John B.

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old putty and
tap in the glazier's points.


I was going to say the same thing as I have glazed windows before myself.

Perhaps my example was poorly selected as a hammer is certainly
effective for removing the glass :-)

But "glazers points"? I always just pushed them in with a flat
screwdriver.

These are modern glazier's points:

http://hydestore.com/hyde-tools-4576...okh godMhgGwg

You can push them in with a screwdriver if the wood isn't too hard.
Or, I suppose, you could tap them in with a cold chisel and a small
hammer.

On the link below you see the old diamond-shaped points. I don't know,
because my house was built in 1924 and a pack of these -- probably
several thousand -- were part of an ancient pack of maintenance tools
that the builder left for posterity:

http://www.amazon.com/Fletcher-Terry.../dp/B000KKPFZA

The driving tool can be seen if you scroll down that page.

My tool probably also dates from the 1920s. It looks like a
screwdriver except that it has the "V" shape that you see on the tool
on the page above. For production glazing, there was also a
spring-loaded driver that actuated like a manual staple gun.

I've pushed in a few hundred of those. If you tried using a hammer,
you'd probably break the window glass, because you have to hold the
tool firmly down against the glass, or the point slips under the tool.

I've never seen the diamond shaped "points". All the ones I've seen
are just little triangles stamped out of thin metal. I would suspect
that if you were to leave the frame laying flat for a few days that
the putty would be enough to hold the glass by itself, particularly if
you use the good putty mixed up with white lead, that lasts
practically for ever :-)



--

Cheers,

John B.

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 05:01:05 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

whit3rd wrote:

Bob La Londe wrote:
"whit3rd" wrote

It might be beneficial to replace the chain drive entirely, with a
worm drive located at the driven axle.

One more set of gearing to rob from the BHP number at the rear wheel.
A chain drive or belt drive are much less parasitic.

Not so; the entire power-drill gearbox and the long mechanical
connection from crank to driven wheel all go away. It's my impression
that the better powered bicycles use hub motors,

Depends on what you mean by "better". It has advantages and
disadvantages. If you want a hub motor powered electric bicycle, buy
one. But apparently they have little low-end torque. Even my current
underpowered drill powered bicycle has lots of low-end torque, just a
slow top speed.

On YouTube, there is an expensive hub motor powered electric bike that
requires peddling when going uphill...

You don't want an electric motor to move as slow as a bicycle wheel.
Chain ratios aren't extreme enough.

It's more complex than that. Sounds like you aren't familiar enough with
the subject.

I suspect it is "horses for courses" as the British say. You
apparently have either purchased a drill with internal gearing or
geared it down using external gears or sprockets to produce higher low
speed torque and lower top speed.

On the other hand I have seen a hub mounted electric motor on a "three
wheel "rickshaw" in Singapore that moved a driver and two passengers
at city traffic speeds.
..
--

Cheers,

John B.

John B. wrote in
:

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 05:01:05 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

whit3rd wrote:

Bob La Londe wrote:
"whit3rd" wrote

It might be beneficial to replace the chain drive entirely, with a
worm drive located at the driven axle.

One more set of gearing to rob from the BHP number at the rear wheel.
A chain drive or belt drive are much less parasitic.

Not so; the entire power-drill gearbox and the long mechanical
connection from crank to driven wheel all go away. It's my impression
that the better powered bicycles use hub motors,

Depends on what you mean by "better". It has advantages and
disadvantages. If you want a hub motor powered electric bicycle, buy
one. But apparently they have little low-end torque. Even my current
underpowered drill powered bicycle has lots of low-end torque, just a
slow top speed.

On YouTube, there is an expensive hub motor powered electric bike that
requires peddling when going uphill...

You don't want an electric motor to move as slow as a bicycle wheel.
Chain ratios aren't extreme enough.

It's more complex than that. Sounds like you aren't familiar enough with
the subject.

I suspect it is "horses for courses" as the British say. You
apparently have either purchased a drill with internal gearing or
geared it down using external gears or sprockets to produce higher low
speed torque and lower top speed.

On the other hand I have seen a hub mounted electric motor on a "three
wheel "rickshaw" in Singapore that moved a driver and two passengers
at city traffic speeds.

Whether it's a hub motor or not, it's got gears.

The drill I'm using cost $90 (US) on eBay. It includes a controller,
motor, gears, and battery holder. And it's powerful.

Here's an effort from 2009.

http://s622.photobucket.com/user/ric...wheel.jpg.html

Here's the article.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...12553&start=15







--

I wrote:

Using 6061 3/8" thick aluminum to hold the front sprocket on a bicycle.

A 1/2 inch square hole through 3/8 inch thick aluminum fits over the
bottom bracket square tapered spindle. The spindle has rounded corners,
so it's not the ideal grip. But the flatbar will be pressed onto it
using a hard bolt.

Will 3/8 inch thick aluminum flatbar fit snugly onto a bicycle bottom
bracket square tapered spindle survive the torque?

Thanks.

I'm probably going to find out. Currently, it's the least difficult way I
know of to attach a custom sprocket to a bicycle bottom bracket.

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 22:03:50 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:


I've never seen the diamond shaped "points". All the ones I've seen
are just little triangles stamped out of thin metal. I would suspect
that if you were to leave the frame laying flat for a few days that
the putty would be enough to hold the glass by itself, particularly
if
you use the good putty mixed up with white lead, that lasts
practically for ever :-)
--
Cheers,
John B.

Leaving the frame flat for a few days wasn't an option for the glass
in the door to my house.
--jsw

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 18:50:36 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 22:03:50 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 07:39:16 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 10:37:28 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"John B." wrote in message
news On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 21:26:18 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
news:vaptgb5pis8egbpb763kn9ulf17fp5udvi@4ax .com...
On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 12:32:14 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

John B. wrote:

John Doe wrote:
whit3rd wrote:
John Doe wrote:

Using 6061 3/8" thick aluminum to hold the front sprocket on a
bicycle.

A 1/2 inch square hole through 3/8 inch thick aluminum fits
over
the bottom bracket square tapered spindle.

Why can't you use a proper crank with spider that takes
replaceable
ring gears?

Because I'm using a 450 max RPM motor to turn the
sprocket/chainring.
The chainring must be extraordinarily small, like 14 to 18 teeth.
There are no crankssets with chainrings that small. That, plus I
wouldn't want/need the extra hardware.

Inner chain rings on a triple often are in the 20-something tooth
range. I'm looking at a 24 tooth at the moment and there is easily
enough meat there to go to 20 teeth and maybe even smaller.

Even if it could be down to 20 teeth, it wouldn't work for my
application.

If there were an easier way to do it, I would have found it. I
already
have turned the other three parts of making an electric bike into
ridiculously easy tasks (with hardly any tools). Easily cutting a
square
hole through an appropriate piece of metal would make it all four.

One can only speculate, "is your way the best way"?
--
Cheers,
John B.

"If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail".

True, but all problems aren't nails. I think that you'll have problems
installing window glass with your hammer.
--

Cheers,

John B.

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old putty and
tap in the glazier's points.


I was going to say the same thing as I have glazed windows before myself.

Perhaps my example was poorly selected as a hammer is certainly
effective for removing the glass :-)

But "glazers points"? I always just pushed them in with a flat
screwdriver.

These are modern glazier's points:

http://hydestore.com/hyde-tools-4576...okh godMhgGwg

You can push them in with a screwdriver if the wood isn't too hard.
Or, I suppose, you could tap them in with a cold chisel and a small
hammer.

On the link below you see the old diamond-shaped points. I don't know,
because my house was built in 1924 and a pack of these -- probably
several thousand -- were part of an ancient pack of maintenance tools
that the builder left for posterity:

http://www.amazon.com/Fletcher-Terry.../dp/B000KKPFZA

The driving tool can be seen if you scroll down that page.

My tool probably also dates from the 1920s. It looks like a
screwdriver except that it has the "V" shape that you see on the tool
on the page above. For production glazing, there was also a
spring-loaded driver that actuated like a manual staple gun.

I've pushed in a few hundred of those. If you tried using a hammer,
you'd probably break the window glass, because you have to hold the
tool firmly down against the glass, or the point slips under the tool.

I've never seen the diamond shaped "points". All the ones I've seen
are just little triangles stamped out of thin metal.

They were the "in-between" type. Sometimes they had a little flange. I
bought a pack of those around 1978, but I didn't like them. I had the
old diamond points but didn't know much about them, until I asked an
old-time glass man and he explained it all to me and showed me how to
angle them in a bit so they keep the glass pressed firmly against the
frame. They're really easy to pull out, with pliers, when you re-putty
the windows and want to put a proper bead *under* the glass.

I would suspect
that if you were to leave the frame laying flat for a few days that
the putty would be enough to hold the glass by itself, particularly if
you use the good putty mixed up with white lead, that lasts
practically for ever :-)

The "good putty," called Swedish putty here, which is linseed oil and
whiting (chalk -- calcium carbonate -- not white lead in the US),
eventually gets hard and can crack out in pieces. That's why people
had to re-putty windows in the past. That's why *I* had to re-putty
mine.

The good stuff today is vastly better. Windows I puttied with modern
putty 38 years ago, when we moved in, are mostly intact. I've only had
to re-putty a few of those since then but I was re-puttying the old
Swedish-puttied windows for a couple of decades. I think I have two
that still have the Swedish putty, and I've patched them with caulking
compound a couple of times. The newest version is some kind of polymer
that seems to stay flexible for years.

The modern putty probably will hold the glass in but I would not rely
on Swedish putty to do it. Besides, installing the points is the
quickest and easiest part of the job.

--
Ed Huntress

"John B." wrote in message
...
On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 05:01:05 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

...
On the other hand I have seen a hub mounted electric motor on a
"three
wheel "rickshaw" in Singapore that moved a driver and two passengers
at city traffic speeds.
--
Cheers,
John B.

I helped build a prototype *** for [???] with a wheel hub motor that
had all the starting torque you could handle. The controller reduced
it to a milder acceleration profile.

Instrumenting it to record performance is what set me to designing my
own data logger using a laptop and multimeters. High currents and
common mode voltage issues made using a microcomputer-type data
acquisition module difficult.

--jsw

On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 18:26:27 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 07:58:02 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old putty
and tap in the glazier's points.

I bought a urethane mallet when I was doing some carving work and
will
use that 10 out of 11 times instead of a hammer. (Nails get a
hammer,
almost everything else gets the nice mallet.) Try one and tell me
what you think. My 12oz brass carving mallet also seems to work
well
for driving shear and roll pins.

http://tinyurl.com/z5lw9w8 and http://tinyurl.com/jf66ol2
Prices sure have climbed since I bought mine!

I hung a plastic hammer beside the mill and another beside the lathe.

If you're talking something like a Duplo, with replaceable tips of
various Shore-weighted plastic/rubbers, great.

Have you seen polyurethane bushings for leaf springs on trucks? This
is similar to the stuff they use for the mallets. Hard and rubbery.
It reduces the shock of the hammering by something like 80% so your
wrists will love it.

--
If you want to make your dreams come true,
the first thing you have to do is wake up!
--anon

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 08:31:16 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 22:03:50 -0400, Ed Huntress
wrote:


I've never seen the diamond shaped "points". All the ones I've seen
are just little triangles stamped out of thin metal. I would suspect
that if you were to leave the frame laying flat for a few days that
the putty would be enough to hold the glass by itself, particularly
if
you use the good putty mixed up with white lead, that lasts
practically for ever :-)
--
Cheers,
John B.

Leaving the frame flat for a few days wasn't an option for the glass
in the door to my house.

Got plywood? g

--
If you want to make your dreams come true,
the first thing you have to do is wake up!
--anon

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 08:53:14 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"John B." wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 05:01:05 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

...
On the other hand I have seen a hub mounted electric motor on a
"three
wheel "rickshaw" in Singapore that moved a driver and two passengers
at city traffic speeds.
--
Cheers,
John B.

I helped build a prototype *** for [???] with a wheel hub motor that
had all the starting torque you could handle. The controller reduced
it to a milder acceleration profile.

I just finished building an electric bike last night. A free mountain
bike from FreeCycle kept the costs down to sub-$300. You likely had a
larger budget to work with.

It's supposedly good for 30kph. I'm amazed at the torque of this
little 36v 800w Chiwanese motor. http://tinyurl.com/z2eynt6
and http://tinyurl.com/hhyytvt . They accidentally sent 15aH
batteries, and they're heavy as hell. A 36v 15aH LIPO is $480,
though.


Instrumenting it to record performance is what set me to designing my
own data logger using a laptop and multimeters. High currents and
common mode voltage issues made using a microcomputer-type data
acquisition module difficult.

It's interesting, the (small and large) things which lead us into
other endeavors.

--
If you want to make your dreams come true,
the first thing you have to do is wake up!
--anon

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 18:26:27 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 07:58:02 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old
putty
and tap in the glazier's points.

I bought a urethane mallet when I was doing some carving work and
will
use that 10 out of 11 times instead of a hammer. (Nails get a
hammer,
almost everything else gets the nice mallet.) Try one and tell me
what you think. My 12oz brass carving mallet also seems to work
well
for driving shear and roll pins.

http://tinyurl.com/z5lw9w8 and http://tinyurl.com/jf66ol2
Prices sure have climbed since I bought mine!

I hung a plastic hammer beside the mill and another beside the
lathe.

If you're talking something like a Duplo, with replaceable tips of
various Shore-weighted plastic/rubbers, great.

Have you seen polyurethane bushings for leaf springs on trucks?
This
is similar to the stuff they use for the mallets. Hard and rubbery.
It reduces the shock of the hammering by something like 80% so your
wrists will love it.

I split firewood and forge steel, and reshingled the back half of my
roof with a claw hammer after the neighbor helping me with his air
nailer was called to a job. I don't need a nerf hammer to save my
wrists. .
--jsw

On Sat, 16 Apr 2016 12:36:42 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 18:26:27 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 14 Apr 2016 07:58:02 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

A hammer is exactly the right tool to help chisel out the old
putty
and tap in the glazier's points.

I bought a urethane mallet when I was doing some carving work and
will
use that 10 out of 11 times instead of a hammer. (Nails get a
hammer,
almost everything else gets the nice mallet.) Try one and tell me
what you think. My 12oz brass carving mallet also seems to work
well
for driving shear and roll pins.

http://tinyurl.com/z5lw9w8 and http://tinyurl.com/jf66ol2
Prices sure have climbed since I bought mine!

I hung a plastic hammer beside the mill and another beside the
lathe.

If you're talking something like a Duplo, with replaceable tips of
various Shore-weighted plastic/rubbers, great.

Have you seen polyurethane bushings for leaf springs on trucks?
This
is similar to the stuff they use for the mallets. Hard and rubbery.
It reduces the shock of the hammering by something like 80% so your
wrists will love it.

I split firewood and forge steel,

Ugh! I hate splitting wood.


and reshingled the back half of my
roof with a claw hammer after the neighbor helping me with his air
nailer was called to a job. I don't need a nerf hammer to save my
wrists. .

g I used a $1.99 HF framing hammer to reroof my pump house. No
biggie. Roofs are soft and bouncy. It's when you hit hard things
(forging, etc.) that it nails your wrists, so to speak.

--
If you want to make your dreams come true,
the first thing you have to do is wake up!
--anon

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"John B." wrote in message
...
On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 05:01:05 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
wrote:

...
On the other hand I have seen a hub mounted electric motor on a "three
wheel "rickshaw" in Singapore that moved a driver and two passengers
at city traffic speeds.
--
Cheers,
John B.

I helped build a prototype *** for [???] with a wheel hub motor that had
all the starting torque you could handle. The controller reduced it to a
milder acceleration profile.

Instrumenting it to record performance is what set me to designing my own
data logger using a laptop and multimeters. High currents and common mode
voltage issues made using a microcomputer-type data acquisition module
difficult.

--jsw

The old Radio Shack digital VOMs with the serial port were awesome for one
off data recording for lots of applications. I left a meter and a laptop on
job sites a few times over the years to prove to customers that their power
supply was crap.

After doing the typical needle in a haystack search for some commercial
product that meets my need, this time for a metal plate with a 1/2 inch
square hole...

Ordered some Hillman Group 290303 1/2-Inch Anti-Turn Washers. Apparently
intended to keep lag bolts from turning in wood while the nut is
fastened to it.

About 1.3 mm thick, 44.5 mm diameter.

The square hole measures .532 inches across an inner side.

Gets snug at the right position for my purpose on a bottom bracket
square tapered spindle. Pegged it, with a little luck.

Could be thicker or maybe it can be doubled, for making a backup front
sprocket adapter.

Also ordered a long 1/2 inch square file (Nicholson 13343) that measures
roughly .48 inches across a side. That should help, if the same method
as last time.





--

I wrote:

Using 6061 3/8" thick aluminum to hold the front sprocket on a
bicycle.

A 1/2 inch square hole through 3/8 inch thick aluminum fits over the
bottom bracket square tapered spindle. The spindle has rounded
corners, so it's not the ideal grip. But the flatbar will be pressed
onto it using a hard bolt.

Will 3/8 inch thick aluminum flatbar fit snugly onto a bicycle bottom
bracket square tapered spindle survive the torque?

Thanks.

I'm probably going to find out. Currently, it's the least difficult
way I know of to attach a custom sprocket to a bicycle bottom bracket.