Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap secondhand
stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for hand saws because I
just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I needed it . I have some
pocket cuts to make on the support timbers (6x6's)for our new kitchen , and
they need to be pretty precise . Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is
no way going to do it , and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep
cuts ... so today I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth
and sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' . I'll likely
use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in , cutting a quarter inch
long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver to trim off .
--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap
secondhand stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for
hand saws because I just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I
needed it . I have some pocket cuts to make on the support timbers
(6x6's)for our new kitchen , and they need to be pretty precise .
Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is no way going to do it ,
and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep cuts ... so today
I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth and
sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' . I'll
likely use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in , cutting a
quarter inch long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver to trim off
.
--
Snag

When I notch beams into columns I clamp the beam to the column, clamp
blocks of scrap 2x4 above and below it, remove the beam and guide a
thin Japanese type pull saw in along the 2x4. This puts the saw kerf
within the mortice space. Then I hog out enough with a chainsaw to
make chiseling the rest easy. Typically the fit is close enough to
pound together with my fist.

--jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap
secondhand stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for
hand saws because I just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I
needed it . I have some pocket cuts to make on the support timbers
(6x6's)for our new kitchen , and they need to be pretty precise .
Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is no way going to do it ,
and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep cuts ... so today
I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth and
sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' . I'll
likely use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in , cutting a
quarter inch long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver to trim off
.
--
Snag

When I notch beams into columns I clamp the beam to the column, clamp
blocks of scrap 2x4 above and below it, remove the beam and guide a
thin Japanese type pull saw in along the 2x4. This puts the saw kerf
within the mortice space. Then I hog out enough with a chainsaw to
make chiseling the rest easy. Typically the fit is close enough to
pound together with my fist.

--jsw

I useta have a nice Japanese (originally from Japan!) pull saw . Then one
of my coworkers decided it would work good to cut off some protruding nails
.... and he knew damn well what was going to happen . Let's just say he
wasn't my friend - and he did this while I was not there .
These are open at the top , I'm cutting a ledge to support the beams and
leaving a vertical tongue to bolt to . Other side will get a plate of 11 ga
held with bolts thru the tongue/beam/plate and lags below the beam into the
post.
--
Snag

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 15:51:49 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap secondhand
stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for hand saws because I
just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I needed it . I have some
pocket cuts to make on the support timbers (6x6's)for our new kitchen , and
they need to be pretty precise . Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is
no way going to do it , and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep
cuts ... so today I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth
and sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' . I'll likely
use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in , cutting a quarter inch
long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver to trim off .

Excellent. Saw sets work well and easily, making the saw work much
more easily for you. Ditto files.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 17:56:39 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap
secondhand stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for
hand saws because I just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I
needed it . I have some pocket cuts to make on the support timbers
(6x6's)for our new kitchen , and they need to be pretty precise .
Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is no way going to do it ,
and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep cuts ... so today
I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth and
sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' . I'll
likely use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in , cutting a
quarter inch long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver to trim off
.
--
Snag

When I notch beams into columns I clamp the beam to the column, clamp
blocks of scrap 2x4 above and below it, remove the beam and guide a
thin Japanese type pull saw in along the 2x4. This puts the saw kerf
within the mortice space. Then I hog out enough with a chainsaw to
make chiseling the rest easy. Typically the fit is close enough to
pound together with my fist.

Ryobas RULE!

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 17:24:55 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap
secondhand stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for
hand saws because I just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I
needed it . I have some pocket cuts to make on the support timbers
(6x6's)for our new kitchen , and they need to be pretty precise .
Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is no way going to do it ,
and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep cuts ... so today
I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth and
sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' . I'll
likely use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in , cutting a
quarter inch long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver to trim off
.
--
Snag

When I notch beams into columns I clamp the beam to the column, clamp
blocks of scrap 2x4 above and below it, remove the beam and guide a
thin Japanese type pull saw in along the 2x4. This puts the saw kerf
within the mortice space. Then I hog out enough with a chainsaw to
make chiseling the rest easy. Typically the fit is close enough to
pound together with my fist.

--jsw

I useta have a nice Japanese (originally from Japan!) pull saw . Then one
of my coworkers decided it would work good to cut off some protruding nails
... and he knew damn well what was going to happen . Let's just say he
wasn't my friend - and he did this while I was not there .

Did you show him how to rivet his nuts together the next time you saw
him?

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 17:24:55 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap
secondhand stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for
hand saws because I just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I
needed it . I have some pocket cuts to make on the support timbers
(6x6's)for our new kitchen , and they need to be pretty precise .
Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is no way going to do it ,
and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep cuts ... so
today I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth
and sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' .
I'll likely use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in ,
cutting a quarter inch long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver
to trim off .
--
Snag

When I notch beams into columns I clamp the beam to the column,
clamp blocks of scrap 2x4 above and below it, remove the beam and
guide a thin Japanese type pull saw in along the 2x4. This puts the
saw kerf within the mortice space. Then I hog out enough with a
chainsaw to make chiseling the rest easy. Typically the fit is
close enough to pound together with my fist.

--jsw

I useta have a nice Japanese (originally from Japan!) pull saw .
Then one of my coworkers decided it would work good to cut off some
protruding nails ... and he knew damn well what was going to happen
. Let's just say he wasn't my friend - and he did this while I was
not there .

Did you show him how to rivet his nuts together the next time you saw
him?

That would have had ne branded as a racist ...

--
Snag

On Fri, 25 Mar 2016 21:28:01 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 17:24:55 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap
secondhand stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for
hand saws because I just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I
needed it . I have some pocket cuts to make on the support timbers
(6x6's)for our new kitchen , and they need to be pretty precise .
Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is no way going to do it ,
and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep cuts ... so today
I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth and
sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' . I'll
likely use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in , cutting a
quarter inch long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver to trim off
.
--
Snag

When I notch beams into columns I clamp the beam to the column, clamp
blocks of scrap 2x4 above and below it, remove the beam and guide a
thin Japanese type pull saw in along the 2x4. This puts the saw kerf
within the mortice space. Then I hog out enough with a chainsaw to
make chiseling the rest easy. Typically the fit is close enough to
pound together with my fist.

--jsw

I useta have a nice Japanese (originally from Japan!) pull saw . Then one
of my coworkers decided it would work good to cut off some protruding nails
... and he knew damn well what was going to happen . Let's just say he
wasn't my friend - and he did this while I was not there .

Did you show him how to rivet his nuts together the next time you saw
him?

In cases like that..I prefer brazing the nuts with a good torch.

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 06:17:11 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 17:24:55 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap
secondhand stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for
hand saws because I just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I
needed it . I have some pocket cuts to make on the support timbers
(6x6's)for our new kitchen , and they need to be pretty precise .
Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is no way going to do it ,
and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep cuts ... so
today I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth
and sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' .
I'll likely use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in ,
cutting a quarter inch long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver
to trim off .
--
Snag

When I notch beams into columns I clamp the beam to the column,
clamp blocks of scrap 2x4 above and below it, remove the beam and
guide a thin Japanese type pull saw in along the 2x4. This puts the
saw kerf within the mortice space. Then I hog out enough with a
chainsaw to make chiseling the rest easy. Typically the fit is
close enough to pound together with my fist.

--jsw

I useta have a nice Japanese (originally from Japan!) pull saw .
Then one of my coworkers decided it would work good to cut off some
protruding nails ... and he knew damn well what was going to happen
. Let's just say he wasn't my friend - and he did this while I was
not there .

Did you show him how to rivet his nuts together the next time you saw
him?

That would have had ne branded as a racist ...

Too bad you couldn't prove it was racism the other direction. But, as
we all know (from themselves, the media, and the politicians) people
of color can't be racist. sigh

--
Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little,
to cure diseases of which they know less,
in human beings of which they know nothing.
--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago

On Sat, 26 Mar 2016 05:25:08 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Fri, 25 Mar 2016 21:28:01 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Mar 2016 17:24:55 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Several years ago , while browsing in one of the tourist trap
secondhand stores here , I bought a saw tooth setting device for
hand saws because I just knew someday I'd need it . Well , today I
needed it . I have some pocket cuts to make on the support timbers
(6x6's)for our new kitchen , and they need to be pretty precise .
Too deep for the circular saw , chainsaw is no way going to do it ,
and the recip saw has a tendency to wander on deep cuts ... so today
I tuned up a crosscut and a rip hand saw . Reset the teeth and
sharpened them with a tricorner file and now we're cookin' . I'll
likely use the smallest chainsaw to rough the pocket in , cutting a
quarter inch long of the mark so I'll only have a sliver to trim off
.
--
Snag

When I notch beams into columns I clamp the beam to the column, clamp
blocks of scrap 2x4 above and below it, remove the beam and guide a
thin Japanese type pull saw in along the 2x4. This puts the saw kerf
within the mortice space. Then I hog out enough with a chainsaw to
make chiseling the rest easy. Typically the fit is close enough to
pound together with my fist.

--jsw

I useta have a nice Japanese (originally from Japan!) pull saw . Then one
of my coworkers decided it would work good to cut off some protruding nails
... and he knew damn well what was going to happen . Let's just say he
wasn't my friend - and he did this while I was not there .

Did you show him how to rivet his nuts together the next time you saw
him?

In cases like that..I prefer brazing the nuts with a good torch.

Too much red flux gets in the way. No, multiple hammer swings while
the nuttee is watching is much more refreshing, I think.

It's all about fairness. Some old book mentioned "an eye for an eye."

--
Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little,
to cure diseases of which they know less,
in human beings of which they know nothing.
--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago