Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

On Tue, 17 Nov 2015 07:14:06 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

I use both the Harbor Freight (with control switches for delay and
shade) and my beloved and mostly used Optrel..which does
everything..and very very well.

Rather large difference in pricing though.....

http://weldinghelmetpros.com/optrel-...-helmet-review

Ive recently used the Miller and its a nice helmet. But
frankly..doesnt work better than the Harbor Freight.

Gunner

I may be the least qualified to respond on this. My welding helmet is about 5 years old, and cost $35. I had just read a review of both high and low end helmets ands the bottom line was the reaction time/eye protection was the same, but the ergonomics was the difference.
Within a year of very occasional use, the headgear inside the helmet fell apart. The fix is to buy a quality replacement for $30 or so. That puts the price range back in the total for a name-brand with the good parts.
So I think if I were buying today I'd be shopping in the $100 range just to get decent hardware that will hold up.

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 9:14:08 AM UTC-6, wrote:
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal
working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily have a way
to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to cut the compartment
open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15 difference) was easy to change
batteries, but I managed to break it after a couple years it was quick
enough to go dark, but was slow to go light when you shut off the arc. I
liked the cheaper one better for that because there are some thin metal
welding methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller automatic
and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with it welding under a
trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I still use it all the time,
but I can't lighten the shade easily anymore. LOL. Your mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic wedling
helmet improved my welding more than anything else except maybe learning
what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop welding and let my
machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad bead whether it has shut
down or not.

Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal
working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily have a
way to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to cut the
compartment open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15 difference) was easy
to change batteries, but I managed to break it after a couple years it was
quick enough to go dark, but was slow to go light when you shut off the
arc. I liked the cheaper one better for that because there are some thin
metal welding methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller
automatic and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with it
welding under a trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I still use
it all the time, but I can't lighten the shade easily anymore. LOL. Your
mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic wedling
helmet improved my welding more than anything else except maybe learning
what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop welding and let my
machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad bead whether it has shut
down or not.

I feel I need to add that the larger the viewing area the better.
Regardless of the type or brand of hood.

On 11/17/2015 10:41 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal
working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily have a
way to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to cut the
compartment open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15 difference) was easy
to change batteries, but I managed to break it after a couple years it was
quick enough to go dark, but was slow to go light when you shut off the
arc. I liked the cheaper one better for that because there are some thin
metal welding methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller
automatic and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with it
welding under a trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I still use
it all the time, but I can't lighten the shade easily anymore. LOL. Your
mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic wedling
helmet improved my welding more than anything else except maybe learning
what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop welding and let my
machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad bead whether it has shut
down or not.

I feel I need to add that the larger the viewing area the better.
Regardless of the type or brand of hood.


I agree with Bob on the viewing area. I bought a Harbor Freight
automatic helmet several years ago and like it.

I also wear glasses and use safety glasses in the shop. If either of you
wear glasses, make sure there is room in the helmet for your glasses.

Paul

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 1:39:42 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal
working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily have a way
to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to cut the compartment
open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15 difference) was easy to change
batteries, but I managed to break it after a couple years it was quick
enough to go dark, but was slow to go light when you shut off the arc. I
liked the cheaper one better for that because there are some thin metal
welding methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller automatic
and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with it welding under a
trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I still use it all the time,
but I can't lighten the shade easily anymore. LOL. Your mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic wedling
helmet improved my welding more than anything else except maybe learning
what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop welding and let my
machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad bead whether it has shut
down or not.

That's great, Thanks Bob,
(and Gunner, Rex, Paul, Steve.)
I'm pretty much a welding idiot.
My house came with a Dayton buzz box, (with a mis-wired plug.)
I made a few bad welds, and then two that are ugly,
but still holding, and haven't used it since.
(I guess I better make sure it's still working and
mice haven't made nests everywhere inside.)

Any other essential piece of kit I need?

George H.

wrote:
On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 1:39:42 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal
working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.
I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily have a way
to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to cut the compartment
open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15 difference) was easy to change
batteries, but I managed to break it after a couple years it was quick
enough to go dark, but was slow to go light when you shut off the arc. I
liked the cheaper one better for that because there are some thin metal
welding methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller automatic
and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with it welding under a
trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I still use it all the time,
but I can't lighten the shade easily anymore. LOL. Your mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic wedling
helmet improved my welding more than anything else except maybe learning
what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop welding and let my
machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad bead whether it has shut
down or not.

That's great, Thanks Bob,
(and Gunner, Rex, Paul, Steve.)
I'm pretty much a welding idiot.
My house came with a Dayton buzz box, (with a mis-wired plug.)
I made a few bad welds, and then two that are ugly,
but still holding, and haven't used it since.
(I guess I better make sure it's still working and
mice haven't made nests everywhere inside.)

Any other essential piece of kit I need?

George H.


Welding gauntlets (I buy 2-3 pairs of the HF ones a year, they hold up
just as good as the more expensive ones I've used)

Long sleeve treated cotton or leather shirt/jacket to keep you from
getting a burn from the UV and sparks. (I actually use wildland
firefighting shirts, they are either a treated cotton or Nomex type
material, and they are usually much cheaper than the same thing sold at
a welding supply.

Scrap steel and a solid table with a vice for practicing and testing
your welds.

Grinder w/flap wheels (the great equalizer for the beginning welder)

--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 1:39:42 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe
wrote:
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for
X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into
metal working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of
options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.
I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily
have a way to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to
cut the compartment open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15
difference) was easy to change batteries, but I managed to break
it after a couple years it was quick enough to go dark, but was
slow to go light when you shut off the arc. I liked the cheaper
one better for that because there are some thin metal welding
methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller
automatic and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with
it welding under a trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I
still use it all the time, but I can't lighten the shade easily
anymore. LOL. Your mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic
wedling helmet improved my welding more than anything else except
maybe learning what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop
welding and let my machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad
bead whether it has shut down or not.

That's great, Thanks Bob, (and Gunner, Rex, Paul, Steve.) I'm
pretty much a welding idiot. My house came with a Dayton buzz box,
(with a mis-wired plug.)
I made a few bad welds, and then two that are ugly,
but still holding, and haven't used it since. (I guess I better
make sure it's still working and mice haven't made nests everywhere
inside.)

Any other essential piece of kit I need? George H.

Welding gauntlets (I buy 2-3 pairs of the HF ones a year, they hold
up just as good as the more expensive ones I've used)

Long sleeve treated cotton or leather shirt/jacket to keep you from
getting a burn from the UV and sparks. (I actually use wildland
firefighting shirts, they are either a treated cotton or Nomex type
material, and they are usually much cheaper than the same thing sold
at a welding supply.

Scrap steel and a solid table with a vice for practicing and testing
your welds.

Grinder w/flap wheels (the great equalizer for the beginning welder)

--
Steve W.

For completeness, a chipping hammer and wire brush are essential for
stick and flux core welding. A cotton cap and leather shoes help
protect you from hot sparks. When I sit down to weld small delicate
stuff I wear a long leather apron and shoe spats.

Since I can't dedicate a space only for welding I use firebricks to
set up a temporary one shaped like a small barbecue pit. The sides
deflect the wind, conceal the arc flash from neighbors and help hold
pieces in place.

Magnetic angles and C-shaped Vise Grips are often very useful. Clamps
made for welding have copper-plated screws to keep molten spatter from
sticking.

I got by with one 4-1/2" angle grinder until taking on larger
projects. Then I added a 7" one with dish wheels to remove metal fast
and a couple of cheapo 4" grinders permanently set up with a cup brush
for rust and a cutoff wheel to erase small mistakes. The original
4-1/2" grinder has a fairly fine disk for smoothing anything that
could snag skin or clothing. I don't use flap wheels much only because
the edge of a solid disk smoothes inside corners better.

Unless you are only repairing cracks the steel has to be cut to size
first. Either a chop saw or a 4" x 6" bandsaw will serve for that. I
prefer the bandsaw because it's more versatile and accurate. I use
mine a lot for woodworking, with a 6 TPI blade it will smoothly and
accurately cut 6x6 posts and landscaping timbers.

-jsw

On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 8:04:01 AM UTC-5, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Steve W." wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 1:39:42 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe
wrote:
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for
X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into
metal working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of
options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.
I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily
have a way to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to
cut the compartment open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15
difference) was easy to change batteries, but I managed to break
it after a couple years it was quick enough to go dark, but was
slow to go light when you shut off the arc. I liked the cheaper
one better for that because there are some thin metal welding
methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller
automatic and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with
it welding under a trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I
still use it all the time, but I can't lighten the shade easily
anymore. LOL. Your mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic
wedling helmet improved my welding more than anything else except
maybe learning what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop
welding and let my machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad
bead whether it has shut down or not.

That's great, Thanks Bob, (and Gunner, Rex, Paul, Steve.) I'm
pretty much a welding idiot. My house came with a Dayton buzz box,
(with a mis-wired plug.)
I made a few bad welds, and then two that are ugly,
but still holding, and haven't used it since. (I guess I better
make sure it's still working and mice haven't made nests everywhere
inside.)

Any other essential piece of kit I need? George H.

Welding gauntlets (I buy 2-3 pairs of the HF ones a year, they hold
up just as good as the more expensive ones I've used)

Long sleeve treated cotton or leather shirt/jacket to keep you from
getting a burn from the UV and sparks. (I actually use wildland
firefighting shirts, they are either a treated cotton or Nomex type
material, and they are usually much cheaper than the same thing sold
at a welding supply.

Scrap steel and a solid table with a vice for practicing and testing
your welds.

Grinder w/flap wheels (the great equalizer for the beginning welder)

--
Steve W.

For completeness, a chipping hammer and wire brush are essential for
stick and flux core welding. A cotton cap and leather shoes help
protect you from hot sparks. When I sit down to weld small delicate
stuff I wear a long leather apron and shoe spats.

Since I can't dedicate a space only for welding I use firebricks to
set up a temporary one shaped like a small barbecue pit. The sides
deflect the wind, conceal the arc flash from neighbors and help hold
pieces in place.

Magnetic angles and C-shaped Vise Grips are often very useful. Clamps
made for welding have copper-plated screws to keep molten spatter from
sticking.

I got by with one 4-1/2" angle grinder until taking on larger
projects. Then I added a 7" one with dish wheels to remove metal fast
and a couple of cheapo 4" grinders permanently set up with a cup brush
for rust and a cutoff wheel to erase small mistakes. The original
4-1/2" grinder has a fairly fine disk for smoothing anything that
could snag skin or clothing. I don't use flap wheels much only because
the edge of a solid disk smoothes inside corners better.

Unless you are only repairing cracks the steel has to be cut to size
first. Either a chop saw or a 4" x 6" bandsaw will serve for that. I
prefer the bandsaw because it's more versatile and accurate. I use
mine a lot for woodworking, with a 6 TPI blade it will smoothly and
accurately cut 6x6 posts and landscaping timbers.

-jsw

Got it, thanks. We've got a small angle grinder,
I've mostly been using a reciprocating saw for slicing metal.
If things get serious a chop saw would be nice.

George H.

On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 2:17:18 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 1:39:42 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal
working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.
I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily have a way
to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to cut the compartment
open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15 difference) was easy to change
batteries, but I managed to break it after a couple years it was quick
enough to go dark, but was slow to go light when you shut off the arc. I
liked the cheaper one better for that because there are some thin metal
welding methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller automatic
and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with it welding under a
trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I still use it all the time,
but I can't lighten the shade easily anymore. LOL. Your mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic wedling
helmet improved my welding more than anything else except maybe learning
what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop welding and let my
machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad bead whether it has shut
down or not.

That's great, Thanks Bob,
(and Gunner, Rex, Paul, Steve.)
I'm pretty much a welding idiot.
My house came with a Dayton buzz box, (with a mis-wired plug.)
I made a few bad welds, and then two that are ugly,
but still holding, and haven't used it since.
(I guess I better make sure it's still working and
mice haven't made nests everywhere inside.)

Any other essential piece of kit I need?

George H.


Welding gauntlets (I buy 2-3 pairs of the HF ones a year, they hold up
just as good as the more expensive ones I've used)

Long sleeve treated cotton or leather shirt/jacket to keep you from
getting a burn from the UV and sparks. (I actually use wildland
firefighting shirts, they are either a treated cotton or Nomex type
material, and they are usually much cheaper than the same thing sold at
a welding supply.

OK, I've been using my carhart cotton duck jacket, and "the boy" is now
big enough to not get lost in my old ones.
(Or are we liable to start it on fire?)
He's also taken my fire place gloves for his forging work...
I figured they would be fine for welding too.

Scrap steel and a solid table with a vice for practicing and testing
your welds.
Yeah I've got plenty of scrap steel :^)

George H.

Grinder w/flap wheels (the great equalizer for the beginning welder)

--
Steve W.

wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 2:17:18 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 1:39:42 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe
wrote:
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for
X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into
metal
working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of
options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.
I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily
have a way
to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to cut the
compartment
open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15 difference) was easy to
change
batteries, but I managed to break it after a couple years it was
quick
enough to go dark, but was slow to go light when you shut off
the arc. I
liked the cheaper one better for that because there are some
thin metal
welding methods that really benefit from being able to see the
weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a
Miller automatic
and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with it
welding under a
trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I still use it all
the time,
but I can't lighten the shade easily anymore. LOL. Your
mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an
automatic wedling
helmet improved my welding more than anything else except maybe
learning
what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop welding and
let my
machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad bead whether it
has shut
down or not.

That's great, Thanks Bob,
(and Gunner, Rex, Paul, Steve.)
I'm pretty much a welding idiot.
My house came with a Dayton buzz box, (with a mis-wired plug.)
I made a few bad welds, and then two that are ugly,
but still holding, and haven't used it since.
(I guess I better make sure it's still working and
mice haven't made nests everywhere inside.)

Any other essential piece of kit I need?

George H.


Welding gauntlets (I buy 2-3 pairs of the HF ones a year, they hold
up
just as good as the more expensive ones I've used)

Long sleeve treated cotton or leather shirt/jacket to keep you from
getting a burn from the UV and sparks. (I actually use wildland
firefighting shirts, they are either a treated cotton or Nomex type
material, and they are usually much cheaper than the same thing
sold at
a welding supply.

OK, I've been using my carhart cotton duck jacket, and "the boy" is
now
big enough to not get lost in my old ones.
(Or are we liable to start it on fire?)
He's also taken my fire place gloves for his forging work...
I figured they would be fine for welding too.

Scrap steel and a solid table with a vice for practicing and
testing
your welds.
Yeah I've got plenty of scrap steel :^)

George H.

Grinder w/flap wheels (the great equalizer for the beginning
welder)

--
Steve W.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Fire...and-courtains/
I used a saturated solution of feed-store alum plus borax to treat
cotton welding curtains. A sample strip hung over an upright propane
torch flame burned in the flame but only charred above it.
-jsw

I have lots of heavy duty welding tables for sale. 1/2, 5/8, and up
top thickness.

i

wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 1:39:42 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal
working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily have a
way
to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to cut the compartment
open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15 difference) was easy to change
batteries, but I managed to break it after a couple years it was quick
enough to go dark, but was slow to go light when you shut off the arc. I
liked the cheaper one better for that because there are some thin metal
welding methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller
automatic
and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with it welding under a
trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I still use it all the time,
but I can't lighten the shade easily anymore. LOL. Your mileage may
vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic wedling
helmet improved my welding more than anything else except maybe learning
what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop welding and let my
machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad bead whether it has shut
down or not.

That's great, Thanks Bob,
(and Gunner, Rex, Paul, Steve.)
I'm pretty much a welding idiot.
My house came with a Dayton buzz box, (with a mis-wired plug.)
I made a few bad welds, and then two that are ugly,
but still holding, and haven't used it since.
(I guess I better make sure it's still working and
mice haven't made nests everywhere inside.)

Any other essential piece of kit I need?

George H.

Gloves, welding blankets, welding jacket... spare hood so the two of you
can look and learn from each other.

On Tue, 17 Nov 2015 18:38:46 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at 1:39:42 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
wrote in message
...
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal
working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

I've had two HF automatic hoods. The cheaper one did not easily have a way
to change the batteries and I destroyed it trying to cut the compartment
open. The more expensive one ($10 or 15 difference) was easy to change
batteries, but I managed to break it after a couple years it was quick
enough to go dark, but was slow to go light when you shut off the arc. I
liked the cheaper one better for that because there are some thin metal
welding methods that really benefit from being able to see the weld
bead/spot very quickly ater the arc shuts off. I bought a Miller automatic
and I like it fairly well, but I bumped something with it welding under a
trailer, and broke the adjustment knob off. I still use it all the time,
but I can't lighten the shade easily anymore. LOL. Your mileage may vary.

Regardless of what you decide to use I truly believe an automatic wedling
helmet improved my welding more than anything else except maybe learning
what duty cycle means and that I just need to stop welding and let my
machine cool down when it starts throwing a bad bead whether it has shut
down or not.

That's great, Thanks Bob,
(and Gunner, Rex, Paul, Steve.)
I'm pretty much a welding idiot.
My house came with a Dayton buzz box, (with a mis-wired plug.)
I made a few bad welds, and then two that are ugly,
but still holding, and haven't used it since.
(I guess I better make sure it's still working and
mice haven't made nests everywhere inside.)

Any other essential piece of kit I need?

2 of them: Electrodes and PRACTICE, in that order.

--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson

wrote:
Hi all, I'm thinking of getting one or two welding helmets for X-mas.
I've got a Dayton welder in the barn that I've used a little,
with an old flip style helmet. My son (age 14) has gotten into metal working
and would like to try welding. There are a huge number of options.
Here's one review.
http://www.mrwelderreviews.com/revie...lding-helmets/

From which I'm thinking of the Antra for ~$50, or perhaps the
classic Miller for a bit more.
Your thoughts?

TIA
George H.

Take a look at the Kobalt Auto Darkening unit. I replaced an OLD HF unit
with it. (HF unit worked just fine, right up until I drove over it !!!)
Decided I wanted something a bit nicer. The Kobalt is a 4 sensor unit,
solar/Batt. with adjustable sensing, time to clear and shade tint. Also
has a grinding function that I don't use. MUCH lighter than the HF unit
with better headgear.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_396400-47120...d=3773821&pl=1

Video showing the helmet and how it works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXS4vxkE0F8

--
Steve W.