Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 532
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

On 9/28/2015 6:51 PM, Ignoramus19568 wrote:
I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.




I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i

Cork is very compressible, so I would expect some type of supporting
structure on the bottom of the inside. I would guess it is welded feet
on the bottom of the inner tank.

Should still be a slip fit if you can cut and end completely off

Paul
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,013
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

Might be a spider or arms and not attached to either.
Might be disks or any form depending on the weight
of the center tank...
I'd take an end off and see what you find.

Martin

On 9/28/2015 9:25 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 9/28/2015 6:51 PM, Ignoramus19568 wrote:
I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.




I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i

Cork is very compressible, so I would expect some type of supporting
structure on the bottom of the inside. I would guess it is welded feet
on the bottom of the inner tank.

Should still be a slip fit if you can cut and end completely off

Paul

  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,399
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:51:30 -0500, Ignoramus19568
wrote:

I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i


Id hang a quanity of C4 directly in the center, both vertically and
horzontally and then set it off. Will crush the cork and break the
welds
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 23:26:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:51:30 -0500, Ignoramus19568
wrote:

I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i


Id hang a quanity of C4 directly in the center, both vertically and
horzontally and then set it off. Will crush the cork and break the
welds


I _really_ want to see the video of that.

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,399
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 06:43:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 23:26:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:51:30 -0500, Ignoramus19568
wrote:

I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i


Id hang a quanity of C4 directly in the center, both vertically and
horzontally and then set it off. Will crush the cork and break the
welds


I _really_ want to see the video of that.


It woild even be cooler if the tank was filled with water.
Wouldnt need more than an oz or 2 of C4 depending on the size of the
tank.


(Grin)

  #7   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 09:10:52 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 06:43:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 23:26:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:51:30 -0500, Ignoramus19568
wrote:

I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i

Id hang a quanity of C4 directly in the center, both vertically and
horzontally and then set it off. Will crush the cork and break the
welds


I _really_ want to see the video of that.


It woild even be cooler if the tank was filled with water.
Wouldnt need more than an oz or 2 of C4 depending on the size of the
tank.

(Grin)


Wouldn't a bit of det cord do the trick?
HE-tech wine bottle neck removal simulation.
Pop the end and drag out the inner tank.

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...
  #8   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 188
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

On Monday, September 28, 2015 at 8:51:35 PM UTC-5, Ignoramus19568 wrote:
I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i


My brother used to be a scrapper.
He told me that the stainless steel milk tanks made by the "ZERO Corporation" were clearly labeled with their net scrap value....
Very similar construction.
SS liner, and insulation, with out shell.
  #9   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,399
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 19:30:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 09:10:52 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 06:43:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 23:26:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:51:30 -0500, Ignoramus19568
wrote:

I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i

Id hang a quanity of C4 directly in the center, both vertically and
horzontally and then set it off. Will crush the cork and break the
welds

I _really_ want to see the video of that.


It woild even be cooler if the tank was filled with water.
Wouldnt need more than an oz or 2 of C4 depending on the size of the
tank.

(Grin)


Wouldn't a bit of det cord do the trick?
HE-tech wine bottle neck removal simulation.
Pop the end and drag out the inner tank.


Probably work fine, but Id use "trim stick" instead of primacord. Its
got a more focused energy path.

  #10   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

On Thu, 01 Oct 2015 11:56:33 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 19:30:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 09:10:52 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 06:43:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 23:26:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:51:30 -0500, Ignoramus19568
wrote:

I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork insulation
in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply inserted into
the outer hull with very little welds between them. So, I hope, I can
just make a circular cut on one side where the mouth is, and pull out
the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i

Id hang a quanity of C4 directly in the center, both vertically and
horzontally and then set it off. Will crush the cork and break the
welds

I _really_ want to see the video of that.

It woild even be cooler if the tank was filled with water.
Wouldnt need more than an oz or 2 of C4 depending on the size of the
tank.

(Grin)


Wouldn't a bit of det cord do the trick?
HE-tech wine bottle neck removal simulation.
Pop the end and drag out the inner tank.


Probably work fine, but Id use "trim stick" instead of primacord. Its
got a more focused energy path.


Wish it were available to play with and learn about.

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,115
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 01 Oct 2015 11:56:33 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 19:30:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 09:10:52 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 06:43:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 23:26:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:51:30 -0500, Ignoramus19568
wrote:

I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork
insulation in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the
outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply
inserted into the outer hull with very little welds between
them. So, I hope, I can just make a circular cut on one side
where the mouth is, and pull out the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i

Id hang a quanity of C4 directly in the center, both vertically
and horzontally and then set it off. Will crush the cork and
break the welds

I _really_ want to see the video of that.

It woild even be cooler if the tank was filled with water.
Wouldnt need more than an oz or 2 of C4 depending on the size of
the tank.

(Grin)

Wouldn't a bit of det cord do the trick?
HE-tech wine bottle neck removal simulation.
Pop the end and drag out the inner tank.


Probably work fine, but Id use "trim stick" instead of primacord. Its
got a more focused energy path.


Wish it were available to play with and learn about.


If you're talking about linear shaped charges , they are fun . Basically a
tube full of explosive with one side dented in to form a vee shape , and
they work better if you stand them off the surface to be cut a little . It's
been over 30 years since I worked at Thiokol , but a lot of that kind of
thing just sticks with you - like the time we "disassembled" a shed with an
8 lb block of C4 Poseidon propellant . There were a few pieces bigger than a
toothpick ...

--
Snag


  #12   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,025
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

On Fri, 2 Oct 2015 08:46:21 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 01 Oct 2015 11:56:33 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 19:30:13 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 09:10:52 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 06:43:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 23:26:29 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:51:30 -0500, Ignoramus19568
wrote:

I have this tank, which I craned today:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Stainless...-Hull-Tank.jpg

(craning was done before wine consumption)

It is carbon steel on the outside, stainless inside, cork
insulation in the middle.

I need to separate stainless and carbon steel for scrap.

My question is how is the inside typically attached to the
outside.

My best hope right now is that the inner hull was simply
inserted into the outer hull with very little welds between
them. So, I hope, I can just make a circular cut on one side
where the mouth is, and pull out the inner body from the outer.

Makes sense?

i

Id hang a quanity of C4 directly in the center, both vertically
and horzontally and then set it off. Will crush the cork and
break the welds

I _really_ want to see the video of that.

It woild even be cooler if the tank was filled with water.
Wouldnt need more than an oz or 2 of C4 depending on the size of
the tank.

(Grin)

Wouldn't a bit of det cord do the trick?
HE-tech wine bottle neck removal simulation.
Pop the end and drag out the inner tank.

Probably work fine, but Id use "trim stick" instead of primacord. Its
got a more focused energy path.


Wish it were available to play with and learn about.


If you're talking about linear shaped charges , they are fun . Basically a


Yes and no. Yes, they'd be fun, too, but I was talking about shearing
an end off a tank to pull out the inner tank. Y'know, can opener?


tube full of explosive with one side dented in to form a vee shape , and
they work better if you stand them off the surface to be cut a little . It's
been over 30 years since I worked at Thiokol , but a lot of that kind of
thing just sticks with you - like the time we "disassembled" a shed with an
8 lb block of C4 Poseidon propellant . There were a few pieces bigger than a
toothpick ...


Sounds like you were a blast to be around, Terry.

P.S: Were you a _real_ rocket scientist?


--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default Dismantling a double hull stainless tank

Hey guys have look a look this awesome Corkscrew Set with classic wooden handled ergonomic designed corkscrew which is best gift under $25 exclusively available at Amazon with 30% off,
Visit this Link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K246JOK

Here are some features of Corkscrew Set

1.Stopper with rubber rings, seals and looks good & and is heavier than others.
2.Quality stainless steel will last without rusting, bending, or scratching.
3.Red wine aerator (red wine manufacturing process is not the same as it used to be--they make the process shorter; so red wine is not as bountiful as it used to be--today's red wine needs to be aerated- aerator gives you the best quality wine possible).
4.Single hinged for fast, easy uncorking.
5.Reusable good looking box.
6.Drp ring collects wine that drips down the neck of the bottle.
7.Real wood on corkscrew for easy grip.
8.Long straight worm.
9.Serrated blade--vs ones that are not serrated (will not stay sharp and are cheap).
10.Ergonomic designed corkscrew with wood as part of construction.

Its a limited time 30% discount on Amazon so don't miss out!
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OT - Block Paving/Drive Company Recommendations Hull thescullster UK diy 1 October 23rd 12 06:10 PM
Hull-Oakes Steam Sawmill Sonny Woodworking 2 February 23rd 11 01:39 AM
Making a fuel tank from stainless 304 Ignoramus6985 Metalworking 23 August 14th 08 04:14 PM
making water tank from aluminum/stainless beer keg Robert Rolleston Home Repair 7 January 13th 05 06:09 PM
Making water tank with alluminum/stainless steel beer keg Robert Rolleston Home Repair 2 January 8th 05 05:46 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:17 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"