I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?

On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


I dunno about the other stuff but the needle valve is probably
supposed to stick out so that it cleans the orifice. Oh, and the
pulsating may be because it is not getting hot enough or because the
fuel flow out of the orifice is not consistent. This may be caused by
a clogged filter or by the fuel passage under the burner assembly
being partly plugged with carbon deposits.
Eric

On Sun, 07 Dec 2014 16:01:50 -0800, wrote:

On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


I dunno about the other stuff but the needle valve is probably
supposed to stick out so that it cleans the orifice. Oh, and the

Ditto the stickout.


pulsating may be because it is not getting hot enough or because the

Yes, they run rough until really hot, when they start vaporizing the
gas, but...


fuel flow out of the orifice is not consistent. This may be caused by
a clogged filter or by the fuel passage under the burner assembly
being partly plugged with carbon deposits.

It could be from a partially plugged vent to the fuel chamber, too,
like a plugged 2-stroke gas cap. Look on top of the fuel catch trough
at the back (IIRC; It has been a long while.)

--
Average # of people killed in mass shooting when stopped by police: 18.25
Average # of people killed when stopped by civilians: 2

Save lives: Keep Civilians Armed!

On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


Most of them DO pulse a small bit, just a heads up. But if its really
noticable...you are probably sucking air and need the seal for the
valve.

And they are far cheaper to run than propane torches if you need to
use it on a Sunday and your bottles are empty.

They will also run on Kerosene and diesel (smokey and dirty and
nasty..but working) and they will run nicely on Coleman fuel
(expensive)

I see you were using it with "camping gas" which I assume is Coleman
fuel. Try it with unleaded gasoline, but replace that seal.

as for the needle sticking out..that is probably normal.

And you did light a heating fire in the preheat trough underneith and
let the torch head heat up properly before turning on the torch
itself..right?

Not a bad video about care, feeding and lighting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=346meunDloU

Gunner



"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


Oh..I should mention...that if you attempt to light it without
preheating the head..you now have a rather fun gasoline "water pistol"
type device that will spray a stream of fuel for up to 30 or more
feet...burning fuel

Can be interesting . for hornets nests etc assuming its in an area
that is NOT flammable


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle
valve actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an
inch. I suspect this isn't right.

I suspect it is. Pushing the needle through the oriface varies the
ORIFACE area, instead of just the liquid flow TO a fixed oriface. That
makes it work properly at a range of pressures, instead of just at one.

Lloyd

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused
with instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the
appearance, it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the
wick looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust
or black powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the
valve shaft and the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this
can be replaced with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light
but made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second
and the flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle
valve actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an
inch. I suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this
site really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?




BTW... did you fill the generator cup, and get the generator
_good_and_hot_ before trying to light the thing? It's NOT liquid-fueled
at the burner. It's gas(seous) fueled at the burner, just like a Colman
lantern.

If you didn't get the generator hot first, it's going to do all sorts of
choking and pulsing, and even shooting out burning liquid.

What you describe sounds like there's still liquid fuel reaching the
burner.

Lloyd

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

And you did light a heating fire in the preheat trough underneith and
let the torch head heat up properly before turning on the torch
itself..right?


Ditto: I asked that, too.

I'm betting not.

Lloyd

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


Most of them DO pulse a small bit, just a heads up. But if its really
noticable...you are probably sucking air and need the seal for the
valve.

good call. I re-dissambled it and the "rust" that came out does appear to
be a completely deteroriated seal, so yeah, air might be sucked in somehow
along the valve stem.

And they are far cheaper to run than propane torches if you need to
use it on a Sunday and your bottles are empty.

They will also run on Kerosene and diesel (smokey and dirty and
nasty..but working) and they will run nicely on Coleman fuel
(expensive)

I see you were using it with "camping gas" which I assume is Coleman
fuel. Try it with unleaded gasoline, but replace that seal.

I just got a can of "Crown camp fuel" "for gasoline lanterns and stoves".
The original manual says "any clean gasoline" or "white gasoline". The
crown stuff has a rust inhibitor so I got that, the colemen stuff on the
same shelf at REI didn't. Nobody really knew the exact differences between
the crown, coleman and MSR branded fuels. The stuff seems to smell more
like naptha than plain gas.

as for the needle sticking out..that is probably normal.

This is good to know then. I need to figure out how the shut off really
works, or what the seal in there is or was.

And you did light a heating fire in the preheat trough underneith and
let the torch head heat up properly before turning on the torch
itself..right?

I did fill the cup and light that to heat up the burner. Prior to that I
did a leak test and the fuel valve does leak a bit but when opened makes a
nice stright jet of gasoline. Once warmed up, no more stream of gas came
out, but what I assumed to be vapor.

Not a bad video about care, feeding and lighting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=346meunDloU

I saw this one- but I was working outside. It was no real surprise there
was gas all over the place when I was done.

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused
with instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the
appearance, it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the
wick looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust
or black powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the
valve shaft and the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this
can be replaced with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light
but made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second
and the flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle
valve actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an
inch. I suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this
site really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?




BTW... did you fill the generator cup, and get the generator
_good_and_hot_ before trying to light the thing? It's NOT liquid-fueled
at the burner. It's gas(seous) fueled at the burner, just like a Colman
lantern.

If you didn't get the generator hot first, it's going to do all sorts of
choking and pulsing, and even shooting out burning liquid.

What you describe sounds like there's still liquid fuel reaching the
burner.

I did take a peek at the air inlet and there wasn't an stream of liquid
gas once it was up and sort of burning.

I'll check on the filter screen, repack the valve stem area and give it
another shot this week.

There's anecdotes on the internet that propane is hotter, and that
gasoline torches are hotter. Kind of eager to find out what the deal
really is.

For whatever reason, I tend to end up with more and more propane cylinders
that don't reseal when taken off a torch. Pretty obnoxious.

On Mon, 8 Dec 2014 01:32:40 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


Most of them DO pulse a small bit, just a heads up. But if its really
noticable...you are probably sucking air and need the seal for the
valve.

good call. I re-dissambled it and the "rust" that came out does appear to
be a completely deteroriated seal, so yeah, air might be sucked in somehow
along the valve stem.

that could probably be fixed with a stack of proper sized O rings.

And they are far cheaper to run than propane torches if you need to
use it on a Sunday and your bottles are empty.

They will also run on Kerosene and diesel (smokey and dirty and
nasty..but working) and they will run nicely on Coleman fuel
(expensive)

I see you were using it with "camping gas" which I assume is Coleman
fuel. Try it with unleaded gasoline, but replace that seal.

I just got a can of "Crown camp fuel" "for gasoline lanterns and stoves".
The original manual says "any clean gasoline" or "white gasoline". The
crown stuff has a rust inhibitor so I got that, the colemen stuff on the
same shelf at REI didn't. Nobody really knew the exact differences between
the crown, coleman and MSR branded fuels. The stuff seems to smell more
like naptha than plain gas.

it IS naptha. All of it. White gas, Coleman, WallyWorld trail fuel,
camp fuel etc.. naptha

Fortunately...these torches will burn just about anything. Diesel..you
really have to heat up the head so its almost not worth it..unless you
only have diesel and no other fuels. And I shouldnt have put in
"unleaded"..as the torch simply doesnt care what goes into it, leaded
or unleaded.


as for the needle sticking out..that is probably normal.

This is good to know then. I need to figure out how the shut off really
works, or what the seal in there is or was.

And you did light a heating fire in the preheat trough underneith and
let the torch head heat up properly before turning on the torch
itself..right?

I did fill the cup and light that to heat up the burner. Prior to that I
did a leak test and the fuel valve does leak a bit but when opened makes a
nice stright jet of gasoline. Once warmed up, no more stream of gas came
out, but what I assumed to be vapor.

Not a bad video about care, feeding and lighting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=346meunDloU

I saw this one- but I was working outside. It was no real surprise there
was gas all over the place when I was done.

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Mon, 8 Dec 2014 01:37:00 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused
with instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the
appearance, it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the
wick looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust
or black powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the
valve shaft and the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this
can be replaced with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light
but made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second
and the flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle
valve actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an
inch. I suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this
site really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?




BTW... did you fill the generator cup, and get the generator
_good_and_hot_ before trying to light the thing? It's NOT liquid-fueled
at the burner. It's gas(seous) fueled at the burner, just like a Colman
lantern.

If you didn't get the generator hot first, it's going to do all sorts of
choking and pulsing, and even shooting out burning liquid.

What you describe sounds like there's still liquid fuel reaching the
burner.

I did take a peek at the air inlet and there wasn't an stream of liquid
gas once it was up and sort of burning.

I'll check on the filter screen, repack the valve stem area and give it
another shot this week.

There's anecdotes on the internet that propane is hotter, and that
gasoline torches are hotter. Kind of eager to find out what the deal
really is.

For whatever reason, I tend to end up with more and more propane cylinders
that don't reseal when taken off a torch. Pretty obnoxious.



As to that...I never take a propane cylinder off once I install it.
Well..Ill take that back..I do have several of the cheapy propane
torch heads that come in the little box with some accessories and a
bottle..and Ive bobbed the torches down to the valve, plugged it with
a proper plug and screw that onto the bottle if Im removing it from
another device. That way I know the ******* isnt going to leak out
before I use it again.

I was fortunate enough to score a full Case of propane bottles at an
auction and found about 8 of them were MAPP gas, the other 16 were
propane. Not a bad deal for $3 plus 16% buyers premium...eh wot?

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


Let's put it this way - there is more than one reason they virtually
dissapeared when BernzoMatic introduced the propane torch in the
'fifties. Otto Bernz's new propane torch made his old "always
reliable" gasoline torch obsolete virtually overnight.

The gasoline (and in europe, Kerosene) blowtorches have a fussy
"generator" that needs to be pre-heated to vapourize the fuel before
it works right. There is a "puddle tray" under the generator/nozzle
that you need to fill with fuel by dribbling it out the nozzle. You
then light the "puddle" and let it smoke for a while to warm the
generator - then you open the needle valve to see if you are still
getting liquid or vapour. If still liquid, shut the valve and let it
continue to heat. When you get vapour it will light and burn smoothly.
If there is any liquid you get the "putt-putt", the yellow flame, and
low heat. If the generator carbons up it has to be dissassembled and
cleaned.(or more likely replaced - they are fragile and fussy from
what I remember) It has, if I remember correctly, a spring like heat
exchanger in it that can be easily damaged. (just like in the old
coleman stoves)

If it is a brass one, polish it up and show it off on a shelf in your
shop. I used to have a couple real nice ones - but only used them a
few times, along with a big "tinner's copper" for soldering eaves
troughs, and for thawing pipes on the farm.

On Sun, 07 Dec 2014 16:01:50 -0800, wrote:

On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


I dunno about the other stuff but the needle valve is probably
supposed to stick out so that it cleans the orifice. Oh, and the
pulsating may be because it is not getting hot enough or because the
fuel flow out of the orifice is not consistent. This may be caused by
a clogged filter or by the fuel passage under the burner assembly
being partly plugged with carbon deposits.
Eric
Unlikely, being a "new in the box, old stock" item.

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 8 Dec 2014 01:32:40 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


Most of them DO pulse a small bit, just a heads up. But if its really
noticable...you are probably sucking air and need the seal for the
valve.

good call. I re-dissambled it and the "rust" that came out does appear to
be a completely deteroriated seal, so yeah, air might be sucked in somehow
along the valve stem.

that could probably be fixed with a stack of proper sized O rings.

Will pick up some of that unmeltable graphite string stuff.

And they are far cheaper to run than propane torches if you need to
use it on a Sunday and your bottles are empty.

They will also run on Kerosene and diesel (smokey and dirty and
nasty..but working) and they will run nicely on Coleman fuel
(expensive)

I see you were using it with "camping gas" which I assume is Coleman
fuel. Try it with unleaded gasoline, but replace that seal.

I just got a can of "Crown camp fuel" "for gasoline lanterns and stoves".
The original manual says "any clean gasoline" or "white gasoline". The
crown stuff has a rust inhibitor so I got that, the colemen stuff on the
same shelf at REI didn't. Nobody really knew the exact differences between
the crown, coleman and MSR branded fuels. The stuff seems to smell more
like naptha than plain gas.

it IS naptha. All of it. White gas, Coleman, WallyWorld trail fuel,
camp fuel etc.. naptha

That would make sense. It's interesting none of these products really
state what they are, although some claim to be "better".

Fortunately...these torches will burn just about anything. Diesel..you
really have to heat up the head so its almost not worth it..unless you
only have diesel and no other fuels. And I shouldnt have put in
"unleaded"..as the torch simply doesnt care what goes into it, leaded
or unleaded.


as for the needle sticking out..that is probably normal.

This is good to know then. I need to figure out how the shut off really
works, or what the seal in there is or was.

And you did light a heating fire in the preheat trough underneith and
let the torch head heat up properly before turning on the torch
itself..right?

I did fill the cup and light that to heat up the burner. Prior to that I
did a leak test and the fuel valve does leak a bit but when opened makes a
nice stright jet of gasoline. Once warmed up, no more stream of gas came
out, but what I assumed to be vapor.

Not a bad video about care, feeding and lighting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=346meunDloU

I saw this one- but I was working outside. It was no real surprise there
was gas all over the place when I was done.

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 8 Dec 2014 01:37:00 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused
with instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the
appearance, it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the
wick looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust
or black powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the
valve shaft and the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this
can be replaced with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light
but made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second
and the flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle
valve actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an
inch. I suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this
site really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?




BTW... did you fill the generator cup, and get the generator
_good_and_hot_ before trying to light the thing? It's NOT liquid-fueled
at the burner. It's gas(seous) fueled at the burner, just like a Colman
lantern.

If you didn't get the generator hot first, it's going to do all sorts of
choking and pulsing, and even shooting out burning liquid.

What you describe sounds like there's still liquid fuel reaching the
burner.

I did take a peek at the air inlet and there wasn't an stream of liquid
gas once it was up and sort of burning.

I'll check on the filter screen, repack the valve stem area and give it
another shot this week.

There's anecdotes on the internet that propane is hotter, and that
gasoline torches are hotter. Kind of eager to find out what the deal
really is.

For whatever reason, I tend to end up with more and more propane cylinders
that don't reseal when taken off a torch. Pretty obnoxious.



As to that...I never take a propane cylinder off once I install it.
Well..Ill take that back..I do have several of the cheapy propane
torch heads that come in the little box with some accessories and a
bottle..and Ive bobbed the torches down to the valve, plugged it with
a proper plug and screw that onto the bottle if Im removing it from
another device. That way I know the ******* isnt going to leak out
before I use it again.

I was fortunate enough to score a full Case of propane bottles at an
auction and found about 8 of them were MAPP gas, the other 16 were
propane. Not a bad deal for $3 plus 16% buyers premium...eh wot?

good score.

I'm down to one can of real MAPP. I see there's stuff in yellow cans, but
it's not the real deal. Not sure how it behaves compared to the real
stuff.

I used to use real CFCs in a can for spot cooling electronics, none of the
safer for the ozone stuff behaved anything like the real stuff.

On Mon, 8 Dec 2014 01:37:00 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Cydrome Leader fired this volley in
:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused
with instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the
appearance, it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the
wick looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust
or black powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the
valve shaft and the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this
can be replaced with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light
but made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second
and the flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle
valve actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an
inch. I suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this
site really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?




BTW... did you fill the generator cup, and get the generator
_good_and_hot_ before trying to light the thing? It's NOT liquid-fueled
at the burner. It's gas(seous) fueled at the burner, just like a Colman
lantern.

If you didn't get the generator hot first, it's going to do all sorts of
choking and pulsing, and even shooting out burning liquid.

What you describe sounds like there's still liquid fuel reaching the
burner.

I did take a peek at the air inlet and there wasn't an stream of liquid
gas once it was up and sort of burning.

I'll check on the filter screen, repack the valve stem area and give it
another shot this week.

There's anecdotes on the internet that propane is hotter, and that
gasoline torches are hotter. Kind of eager to find out what the deal
really is.

For whatever reason, I tend to end up with more and more propane cylinders
that don't reseal when taken off a torch. Pretty obnoxious.



I virtually ALWAYS leave them on the torch, for that reason. The
coleman stuff is AWFULL - the genuine bernzoMatic tanks have not
(generally) caused a problem for me.

I have an "adapter hose" for running coleman stove off 20 lb cyl that
I have my torch head attached to - shouldn't run out of propane for
the torch for another 10 years or so!!!

On Sun, 07 Dec 2014 20:30:21 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Mon, 8 Dec 2014 01:32:40 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


Most of them DO pulse a small bit, just a heads up. But if its really
noticable...you are probably sucking air and need the seal for the
valve.

good call. I re-dissambled it and the "rust" that came out does appear to
be a completely deteroriated seal, so yeah, air might be sucked in somehow
along the valve stem.

that could probably be fixed with a stack of proper sized O rings.

And they are far cheaper to run than propane torches if you need to
use it on a Sunday and your bottles are empty.

They will also run on Kerosene and diesel (smokey and dirty and
nasty..but working) and they will run nicely on Coleman fuel
(expensive)

I see you were using it with "camping gas" which I assume is Coleman
fuel. Try it with unleaded gasoline, but replace that seal.

I just got a can of "Crown camp fuel" "for gasoline lanterns and stoves".
The original manual says "any clean gasoline" or "white gasoline". The
crown stuff has a rust inhibitor so I got that, the colemen stuff on the
same shelf at REI didn't. Nobody really knew the exact differences between
the crown, coleman and MSR branded fuels. The stuff seems to smell more
like naptha than plain gas.

it IS naptha. All of it. White gas, Coleman, WallyWorld trail fuel,
camp fuel etc.. naptha

Fortunately...these torches will burn just about anything. Diesel..you
really have to heat up the head so its almost not worth it..unless you
only have diesel and no other fuels. And I shouldnt have put in
"unleaded"..as the torch simply doesnt care what goes into it, leaded
or unleaded.

Leaded fuel ruins the generator on them pretty quickly - but then
other than AveGas or racing fuel, that's not an issue today.

as for the needle sticking out..that is probably normal.

This is good to know then. I need to figure out how the shut off really
works, or what the seal in there is or was.

And you did light a heating fire in the preheat trough underneith and
let the torch head heat up properly before turning on the torch
itself..right?

I did fill the cup and light that to heat up the burner. Prior to that I
did a leak test and the fuel valve does leak a bit but when opened makes a
nice stright jet of gasoline. Once warmed up, no more stream of gas came
out, but what I assumed to be vapor.

Not a bad video about care, feeding and lighting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=346meunDloU

I saw this one- but I was working outside. It was no real surprise there
was gas all over the place when I was done.

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Mon, 08 Dec 2014 00:01:29 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 07 Dec 2014 16:01:50 -0800, wrote:

On Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:50:22 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

I just picked up a Turner T15C gasoline blowtorh, "new" and unused with
instruction manual but a little shelf worn last week. From the appearance,
it's probably 30 or more years old.

The leather gasket in the pump is good, the check valve is good, the wick
looks fine and the orifice isn't clogged, but something like rust or black
powder came out and there appears to be no seal along the valve shaft and
the packing nut on the read. One website suggests this can be replaced
with grahpited string, like on a steam radiator valve.

I went ahead and fired the thing up with camping gas and it did light but
made a weird pulsating sound, a little faster than once a second and the
flame never really looked right with a yellow tip.

I also noticed that in the off position, the needle from the needle valve
actually stuck out from the orifice itself by about 1/16th of an inch. I
suspect this isn't right.

Any tips for dealing with and fixing these things? The stuff on this site
really doesn't really dig too deep

http://www.blotorches.com/torchfix/t...ml#operational

Any good stories of using these or advanges to propane torches?


I dunno about the other stuff but the needle valve is probably
supposed to stick out so that it cleans the orifice. Oh, and the
pulsating may be because it is not getting hot enough or because the
fuel flow out of the orifice is not consistent. This may be caused by
a clogged filter or by the fuel passage under the burner assembly
being partly plugged with carbon deposits.
Eric
Unlikely, being a "new in the box, old stock" item.
Yep, unlikely. I would check anyway if nothing else worked but N.O.S.
would tend to make carbon clogging unlikely. I read his message twice
and still put that bit in about carbon. My only hope now is that he
tries everything else and then finds a bunch of carbon clogging things
up and vindicates my advice.
Thanks for pointing out my goof.
Eric