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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Paint -- anyone else?
Just want to confirm some results -- wondering if anyone can back me up on this.
Aluminum part that I sanded for paint grab and cleaned with denatured alcohol. I've tried a lot of paint techniques ranging from professional 2 part coatings, different primers etc but wanted something good for occasional use that I could get in a can. (1) been priming with epoxy paint, let dry well and lightly sand to get smooth) (2) 2nd coat, texture black Ok, if you let dry for 30 days but here's what I recently did -- added another top coat of rustoleum ultra high temp black and baked in 250 oven for a few hours. wow -- instant durability. (in a can, no less). anyone else? |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Paint -- anyone else?
On Wednesday, March 19, 2014 6:49:42 AM UTC-7, mkr5000 wrote:
Just want to confirm some results -- wondering if anyone can back me up on this. Aluminum part that I sanded for paint grab and cleaned with denatured alcohol. I've tried a lot of paint techniques ranging from professional 2 part coatings, different primers etc but wanted something good for occasional use that I could get in a can. (1) been priming with epoxy paint, let dry well and lightly sand to get smooth) (2) 2nd coat, texture black Ok, if you let dry for 30 days but here's what I recently did -- added another top coat of rustoleum ultra high temp black and baked in 250 oven for a few hours. wow -- instant durability. (in a can, no less). anyone else? Get a home powder coating kit. They're cheap. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Paint -- anyone else?
I've not tried this on aluminum, but how about letting the first coat of
epoxy paint cure until it is set but still a little tacky, and then spray on the rustoleum. Should flow and look smooth, and should bind well to the not-quite-cured epoxy. That's what the instructions for POR-15 epoxy paint say to do - either let it fully cure, then lightly rough up with sandpaper, then overpaint, or overpaint while still slightly tacky. ----- Regards, Carl Ijames "mkr5000" wrote in message ... Just want to confirm some results -- wondering if anyone can back me up on this. Aluminum part that I sanded for paint grab and cleaned with denatured alcohol. I've tried a lot of paint techniques ranging from professional 2 part coatings, different primers etc but wanted something good for occasional use that I could get in a can. (1) been priming with epoxy paint, let dry well and lightly sand to get smooth) (2) 2nd coat, texture black Ok, if you let dry for 30 days but here's what I recently did -- added another top coat of rustoleum ultra high temp black and baked in 250 oven for a few hours. wow -- instant durability. (in a can, no less). anyone else? |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Paint -- anyone else?
On Wed, 19 Mar 2014 06:49:42 -0700 (PDT), mkr5000
wrote: Just want to confirm some results -- wondering if anyone can back me up on this. Aluminum part that I sanded for paint grab and cleaned with denatured alcohol. I've tried a lot of paint techniques ranging from professional 2 part coatings, different primers etc but wanted something good for occasional use that I could get in a can. (1) been priming with epoxy paint, let dry well and lightly sand to get smooth) (2) 2nd coat, texture black Ok, if you let dry for 30 days but here's what I recently did -- added another top coat of rustoleum ultra high temp black and baked in 250 oven for a few hours. wow -- instant durability. (in a can, no less). anyone else? Hating long paint-curing times, I love the instant durability aspect, Mike. -- Creativity is allowing yourself to make mistakes. Art is knowing which ones to keep. -- Scott Adams, 'The Dilbert Principle' |
#5
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Paint -- anyone else?
Carl --
actually I just recently tried that and it works even better than waiting for the epoxy primer to dry. been spraying the epoxy primer, waiting about 15 minutes then doing a real nice spray pattern with the texture paint. having the texture binding with the epoxy made a difference. but I must say, the real winner is the high heat paint and then the oven. better than a clear coat and I suppose I could just bypass the texture and go to the high heat if I wanted a smooth finish. the high heat (rustoleum ultra) will keep i from fingernail scratches within hours, compared to letting the paint cure for 30 days or more. at least, that's what I'm getting. |
#6
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Paint -- anyone else?
I have one -- harbor freight but I need to build a decent box for it -- too messy, powder goes everywhere.
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#7
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Paint -- anyone else?
On Thursday, March 20, 2014 4:57:57 AM UTC-7, mkr5000 wrote:
I have one -- harbor freight but I need to build a decent box for it -- too messy, powder goes everywhere. Suggest build a portable knock down spray booth like I have done in the past. |
#8
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Paint -- anyone else?
On Wednesday, March 19, 2014 9:49:42 AM UTC-4, mkr5000 wrote:
Just want to confirm some results -- wondering if anyone can back me up on this. Aluminum part that I sanded for paint grab and cleaned with denatured alcohol. I've tried a lot of paint techniques ranging from professional 2 part coatings, different primers etc but wanted something good for occasional use that I could get in a can. (1) been priming with epoxy paint, let dry well and lightly sand to get smooth) (2) 2nd coat, texture black Ok, if you let dry for 30 days but here's what I recently did -- added another top coat of rustoleum ultra high temp black and baked in 250 oven for a few hours. wow -- instant durability. (in a can, no less). anyone else? I used to do motorcycle engines by preheating them (sometimes just sitting out in the sun, other times in a 200°F oven and then spraying with plain Krylon flat black, then returning to the heat for a couple of hours. Those paint jobs were practically indestructible. |
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