"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
Wife went to Bakersfield yesterday for a doctors visit. Ran fine. When
she got out..wouldnt fire up. No fuel at the Schrader valve.
Had it towed home

The problem..is there is a full 15 gallons of gas in the tank and the
truck pump will not pump any fuel.

When you turn on the key..there is no pump sound coming from the gas
tank.

So with this in mind..I searched the web and the 2 Haynes books I have
for data to diagnose the problem.

There is so much bull**** data on the Ranger..its impossible to find
any good information

The Haynes books are not much better when it comes to fuel system.

2001 Ranger XLT, 3.0 "Not Flex Fuel"


1. There is a 20 amp fuse (good) in the power distribution box under
the hood.

Next step is to test the fuel pump relay..and here lies the problem #1

Which one is it????

A web search turns up "K4" (no such markings in my distribution box)
"Lower right hand relay" (empty socket)

etc etc etc.

Haynes doesnt show it either.

The next item is the Emergency Fuel Pump Shutoff switch, located on
the passengers side, up against the firewall. Found it (not in the
marked location in any manual/guide) and its not tripped. So I pulled
the connector and measured voltage (7.5vts..which is a bit odd) and
then jumpered the connector with a paperclip. Still no pump run. I
left the jumper in place. One would think that that shock switch
should be passing battery voltage..12.35 volts ...in and then out
again.

There is several multiple wire disconnects between the fuse box and
the fuel pump which is hidden from view on top of the ful fuel tank.

No manual/guide tells me what wire/wires or wire colors Im searching
for between the fuel tank and the fuse box..or what color, or where
the **** they run. If I could know that the "Green/Yellow" were power
to the pump...it would be a no brainer to test, close to the tank.

So unless one of you gentlemen have any idea of how to id and test the
fuel pump relay (one of a ****load, all the same (2) types...or any
other places to look..Im going to have to drain the gas tank and drop
it. Which Im hoping not to have to do.

Ive never seen a fuel pump simply quit on arrival..and never pump
again....so my gut feeling..is its electrical. They tend to get
weaker and weaker..but never had one simply quit.

Also..anyone know of a place that sells fuel pumps for less than the
$235!!!!!! that Autozone wants for theirs? CarQuest is about the same
price. Any alternative suggestions?

Help!

Gunner

Check your Gmail....

On Wed, 1 Jan 2014 01:16:36 -0500, "Rick"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
Wife went to Bakersfield yesterday for a doctors visit. Ran fine. When
she got out..wouldnt fire up. No fuel at the Schrader valve.
Had it towed home

The problem..is there is a full 15 gallons of gas in the tank and the
truck pump will not pump any fuel.

When you turn on the key..there is no pump sound coming from the gas
tank.

So with this in mind..I searched the web and the 2 Haynes books I have
for data to diagnose the problem.

There is so much bull**** data on the Ranger..its impossible to find
any good information

The Haynes books are not much better when it comes to fuel system.

2001 Ranger XLT, 3.0 "Not Flex Fuel"


1. There is a 20 amp fuse (good) in the power distribution box under
the hood.

Next step is to test the fuel pump relay..and here lies the problem #1

Which one is it????

A web search turns up "K4" (no such markings in my distribution box)
"Lower right hand relay" (empty socket)

etc etc etc.

Haynes doesnt show it either.

The next item is the Emergency Fuel Pump Shutoff switch, located on
the passengers side, up against the firewall. Found it (not in the
marked location in any manual/guide) and its not tripped. So I pulled
the connector and measured voltage (7.5vts..which is a bit odd) and
then jumpered the connector with a paperclip. Still no pump run. I
left the jumper in place. One would think that that shock switch
should be passing battery voltage..12.35 volts ...in and then out
again.

There is several multiple wire disconnects between the fuse box and
the fuel pump which is hidden from view on top of the ful fuel tank.

No manual/guide tells me what wire/wires or wire colors Im searching
for between the fuel tank and the fuse box..or what color, or where
the **** they run. If I could know that the "Green/Yellow" were power
to the pump...it would be a no brainer to test, close to the tank.

So unless one of you gentlemen have any idea of how to id and test the
fuel pump relay (one of a ****load, all the same (2) types...or any
other places to look..Im going to have to drain the gas tank and drop
it. Which Im hoping not to have to do.

Ive never seen a fuel pump simply quit on arrival..and never pump
again....so my gut feeling..is its electrical. They tend to get
weaker and weaker..but never had one simply quit.

Also..anyone know of a place that sells fuel pumps for less than the
$235!!!!!! that Autozone wants for theirs? CarQuest is about the same
price. Any alternative suggestions?

Help!

Gunner

Check your Gmail....

Thanks!!

Gunner

--
"Owning a sailboat is like marrying a nymphomaniac. You don’t want to do that
but it is great if your best friend does. That way you get all the benefits without any of the upkeep"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 2014-01-01, Rick wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
Wife went to Bakersfield yesterday for a doctors visit. Ran fine. When
she got out..wouldnt fire up. No fuel at the Schrader valve.
Had it towed home

The problem..is there is a full 15 gallons of gas in the tank and the
truck pump will not pump any fuel.

When you turn on the key..there is no pump sound coming from the gas
tank.

So with this in mind..I searched the web and the 2 Haynes books I have
for data to diagnose the problem.

There is so much bull**** data on the Ranger..its impossible to find
any good information

The Haynes books are not much better when it comes to fuel system.

2001 Ranger XLT, 3.0 "Not Flex Fuel"


1. There is a 20 amp fuse (good) in the power distribution box under
the hood.

Next step is to test the fuel pump relay..and here lies the problem #1

Which one is it????

Does the owner's manual have a hint?

Is a hint printed on the cover over the relay box?

If all else fails -- with someone else in the car to turn on and
off the ignition -- have them turn it on with the hood up, and then tap
on each relay with the handle of a screwdriver, and listen for the fuel
pump to make a sound. If not, move to the next and repeat.

Once you find it -- (and the tap would proably make it work for
a little while), see whether there is another relay in the box of the
same size serving some function which you can do without for a while,
and swap the two. (Mark the suspect one with a sticker so you can
identify it for sure when you get a couple of new ones. (A couple, so
you can keep one in the glove box, along with a note as to which to
replace next time.)

If you can get the cover off the relay, you might be able to
clean the contacts with a good contact cleaner -- or lacking that, an
ignition file from the old days of points. :-)

[ ... ]

No manual/guide tells me what wire/wires or wire colors Im searching
for between the fuel tank and the fuse box..or what color, or where
the **** they run. If I could know that the "Green/Yellow" were power
to the pump...it would be a no brainer to test, close to the tank.

IIRC -- the fuel pump shares a power connector with the fuel
gauge -- power comes in via one pin, goes through the motor to ground,
and goes through the resistor array and wiper on printed circuit board
back to the gauge.

If you ever have to replace the pump. replace the fuel gauge
sender at the same time. It is just as much trouble either way, and
those senders do tend to wear out over time. (We've got one which
constantly says the tank is "empty" until I get the tank out and swap
the pump assembly. You can get the assembly with the pump, or just the
pump to replace in the assembly. (Based on our '94 Explorer clone (Mazda
Navajo).

So unless one of you gentlemen have any idea of how to id and test the
fuel pump relay (one of a ****load, all the same (2) types...or any
other places to look..Im going to have to drain the gas tank and drop
it. Which Im hoping not to have to do.

Ive never seen a fuel pump simply quit on arrival..and never pump
again....so my gut feeling..is its electrical. They tend to get
weaker and weaker..but never had one simply quit.

Contacts in the relay are the most likely. That was what was
wrong with ours, when I was prepared to swap out the fuel pump to get a
working fuel gauge. :-)

Also..anyone know of a place that sells fuel pumps for less than the
$235!!!!!! that Autozone wants for theirs? CarQuest is about the same
price. Any alternative suggestions?

Likely not the pump itself. Most likely the relay.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 5 Jan 2014 03:37:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-01-01, Rick wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
Wife went to Bakersfield yesterday for a doctors visit. Ran fine. When
she got out..wouldnt fire up. No fuel at the Schrader valve.
Had it towed home

The problem..is there is a full 15 gallons of gas in the tank and the
truck pump will not pump any fuel.

When you turn on the key..there is no pump sound coming from the gas
tank.

So with this in mind..I searched the web and the 2 Haynes books I have
for data to diagnose the problem.

There is so much bull**** data on the Ranger..its impossible to find
any good information

The Haynes books are not much better when it comes to fuel system.

2001 Ranger XLT, 3.0 "Not Flex Fuel"


1. There is a 20 amp fuse (good) in the power distribution box under
the hood.

Next step is to test the fuel pump relay..and here lies the problem #1

Which one is it????

Does the owner's manual have a hint?

Is a hint printed on the cover over the relay box?

If all else fails -- with someone else in the car to turn on and
off the ignition -- have them turn it on with the hood up, and then tap
on each relay with the handle of a screwdriver, and listen for the fuel
pump to make a sound. If not, move to the next and repeat.

Once you find it -- (and the tap would proably make it work for
a little while), see whether there is another relay in the box of the
same size serving some function which you can do without for a while,
and swap the two. (Mark the suspect one with a sticker so you can
identify it for sure when you get a couple of new ones. (A couple, so
you can keep one in the glove box, along with a note as to which to
replace next time.)

If you can get the cover off the relay, you might be able to
clean the contacts with a good contact cleaner -- or lacking that, an
ignition file from the old days of points. :-)

[ ... ]

No manual/guide tells me what wire/wires or wire colors Im searching
for between the fuel tank and the fuse box..or what color, or where
the **** they run. If I could know that the "Green/Yellow" were power
to the pump...it would be a no brainer to test, close to the tank.

IIRC -- the fuel pump shares a power connector with the fuel
gauge -- power comes in via one pin, goes through the motor to ground,
and goes through the resistor array and wiper on printed circuit board
back to the gauge.

Not on any I've ever seen, but I've only worked on several thousand
vehicles, and several hundred fuel guages. The guage runs on
regulated (generally 5-7 volt) power.

If you ever have to replace the pump. replace the fuel gauge
sender at the same time. It is just as much trouble either way, and
those senders do tend to wear out over time. (We've got one which
constantly says the tank is "empty" until I get the tank out and swap
the pump assembly. You can get the assembly with the pump, or just the
pump to replace in the assembly. (Based on our '94 Explorer clone (Mazda
Navajo).

So unless one of you gentlemen have any idea of how to id and test the
fuel pump relay (one of a ****load, all the same (2) types...or any
other places to look..Im going to have to drain the gas tank and drop
it. Which Im hoping not to have to do.


The fuel pump relay is in the fuse box by the battery, and is the one
in the corner between the 2 larger relays. C1051.
Between K1017 and 1016
On the short end of the relat box there are two small relays down the
right side (trailer towing relay, ac clutch relay) the a large relay
(ecm) then the fuel pump relat and an (empty) spot.
Ive never seen a fuel pump simply quit on arrival..and never pump
again....so my gut feeling..is its electrical. They tend to get
weaker and weaker..but never had one simply quit.

Contacts in the relay are the most likely. That was what was
wrong with ours, when I was prepared to swap out the fuel pump to get a
working fuel gauge. :-)

Also..anyone know of a place that sells fuel pumps for less than the
$235!!!!!! that Autozone wants for theirs? CarQuest is about the same
price. Any alternative suggestions?

Likely not the pump itself. Most likely the relay.

Good Luck,
DoN.

On 5 Jan 2014 03:37:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2014-01-01, Rick wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
Wife went to Bakersfield yesterday for a doctors visit. Ran fine. When
she got out..wouldnt fire up. No fuel at the Schrader valve.
Had it towed home

The problem..is there is a full 15 gallons of gas in the tank and the
truck pump will not pump any fuel.

When you turn on the key..there is no pump sound coming from the gas
tank.

So with this in mind..I searched the web and the 2 Haynes books I have
for data to diagnose the problem.

There is so much bull**** data on the Ranger..its impossible to find
any good information

The Haynes books are not much better when it comes to fuel system.

2001 Ranger XLT, 3.0 "Not Flex Fuel"


1. There is a 20 amp fuse (good) in the power distribution box under
the hood.

Next step is to test the fuel pump relay..and here lies the problem #1

Which one is it????

Does the owner's manual have a hint?

Is a hint printed on the cover over the relay box?

If all else fails -- with someone else in the car to turn on and
off the ignition -- have them turn it on with the hood up, and then tap
on each relay with the handle of a screwdriver, and listen for the fuel
pump to make a sound. If not, move to the next and repeat.

Once you find it -- (and the tap would proably make it work for
a little while), see whether there is another relay in the box of the
same size serving some function which you can do without for a while,
and swap the two. (Mark the suspect one with a sticker so you can
identify it for sure when you get a couple of new ones. (A couple, so
you can keep one in the glove box, along with a note as to which to
replace next time.)

If you can get the cover off the relay, you might be able to
clean the contacts with a good contact cleaner -- or lacking that, an
ignition file from the old days of points. :-)

[ ... ]

No manual/guide tells me what wire/wires or wire colors Im searching
for between the fuel tank and the fuse box..or what color, or where
the **** they run. If I could know that the "Green/Yellow" were power
to the pump...it would be a no brainer to test, close to the tank.

IIRC -- the fuel pump shares a power connector with the fuel
gauge -- power comes in via one pin, goes through the motor to ground,
and goes through the resistor array and wiper on printed circuit board
back to the gauge.

If you ever have to replace the pump. replace the fuel gauge
sender at the same time. It is just as much trouble either way, and
those senders do tend to wear out over time. (We've got one which
constantly says the tank is "empty" until I get the tank out and swap
the pump assembly. You can get the assembly with the pump, or just the
pump to replace in the assembly. (Based on our '94 Explorer clone (Mazda
Navajo).

So unless one of you gentlemen have any idea of how to id and test the
fuel pump relay (one of a ****load, all the same (2) types...or any
other places to look..Im going to have to drain the gas tank and drop
it. Which Im hoping not to have to do.

Ive never seen a fuel pump simply quit on arrival..and never pump
again....so my gut feeling..is its electrical. They tend to get
weaker and weaker..but never had one simply quit.

Contacts in the relay are the most likely. That was what was
wrong with ours, when I was prepared to swap out the fuel pump to get a
working fuel gauge. :-)

Also..anyone know of a place that sells fuel pumps for less than the
$235!!!!!! that Autozone wants for theirs? CarQuest is about the same
price. Any alternative suggestions?

Likely not the pump itself. Most likely the relay.

There is also seems to be a cutoff switch that apparently is supposed
to shut things down in the event of a crash.
see
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t11832331-...ay_ford_ranger

--
Cheers,

John B.

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

Contacts in the relay are the most likely. That was what was
wrong with ours, when I was prepared to swap out the fuel pump to
get a
working fuel gauge. :-)

DoN.

On my 1991 the relay that powers the computer stuck closed and drained
the battery in a few days. It was hard to trace because lower-cost
clamp-on DC ammeters drift too quickly to read low currents accurately
and I didn't want to risk a good meter's current range directly in
series with the battery. Afterwards I bought a bunch of cheap HF
meters for such jobs.

The Ford electrical connectors can be disassembled by pulling out the
red insert with fine needlenose pliers and moving back the hooks that
retain the individual pins with a small screwdriver. They pull out
through the soft rubber at the rear of the connector. Autozone sells
replacement pins.

When I was looking to buy or borrow a breakout box a mechanic told me
they aren't necessary and to push a straightened paper clip in along
the wire to measure the voltage on a connector pin.

A printout of the Alldata schematic was nearly as useful as the
factory shop manual, and easier to follow.

jsw

When I was looking to buy or borrow a breakout box a mechanic told me
they aren't necessary and to push a straightened paper clip in along
the wire to measure the voltage on a connector pin.

Sewing "T" pins are perfect for this, sliding right in next to the wire
without hanging on, or risking damage to the seal, can easily be bent as
necessary, and the "T" head works very well with Alligator clips.

A little plastic storage tub of 50 goes for like $3.49.

Erik