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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#41
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Bught an interesting 1944 Monarch lathe 16x54
"Ignoramus13376" wrote in message
... On 2013-06-06, Existential Angst wrote: "rangerssuck" wrote in message ... On Tuesday, June 4, 2013 11:21:20 PM UTC-4, DoN. Nichols wrote: You'll probably also get a rather poor finish at such low speeds with such small workpieces. OK, I understand why 500rpm is too low to cut properly on small diameters, but is it possible to increase the speed of this particular lathe? Is there something about the drive or bearings that makes it impossible? Proly could just change the motor speed (assuming the motor is not already 3600 rpm), and/or the drive pulleys. I'm sure the bearings could handle it, altho it is generally true that the faster the rpm, the faster the wear. Many lathes come with two-speed motors. This lathe is 70 year old by design and age. Can you increase the "motor speed" of a 70 year old grandfaher? What will happen to the grandpa in the long run? we all know I already conceded that wear is proportional to stress, rpm. 80 mph is more wear/tear on a vehicle than 50 mph.... And???? You can give grandpa a heart transplant, and swap out the motor, for a higher rpm motor. Or the pulleys. Not saying you should do it, just saying it can be done, and you'd have yer cake and be able to eat it too. You've already stated that you refuse to retain two lathes. This would be a good solution, if you really like this lathe other than the rpm. If you were doing lots of 1,000+ rpm work, I'd say keep both lathes, as others have suggested. If not, you have to make a choice. Swapping the motor, pulleys is just another option. -- EA i |
#42
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Bught an interesting 1944 Monarch lathe 16x54
On 2013-06-06, Existential Angst wrote:
"rangerssuck" wrote in message ... On Tuesday, June 4, 2013 11:21:20 PM UTC-4, DoN. Nichols wrote: You'll probably also get a rather poor finish at such low speeds with such small workpieces. OK, I understand why 500rpm is too low to cut properly on small diameters, but is it possible to increase the speed of this particular lathe? Is there something about the drive or bearings that makes it impossible? Proly could just change the motor speed (assuming the motor is not already 3600 rpm), and/or the drive pulleys. I'm sure the bearings could handle it, altho it is generally true that the faster the rpm, the faster the wear. Many lathes come with two-speed motors. Note that there is a maximum speed rating for each chuck -- and the larger the chuck, the lower that speed rating. At higher speeds, centrifugal stresses can cause the chuck to turn into a collection of Shrapnel flying in different directions. Now -- if you have collets for the large lathe, you could probably get away with speeding it up. But then you need to worry about other workers not knowing about the speed limitations of the chucks, and/or being too lazy to pull the chuck off and replace it with a much smaller one, or a collet prior to running some high-speed cutting. Maybe a smaller motor and spindle held in the big chuck could give you high speed when you need it. Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#43
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Bught an interesting 1944 Monarch lathe 16x54
Don' please elaborate on "smaller motor and spindle held in big chuck". Sounds interesting.
Ivan Vegvary. |
#44
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Bught an interesting 1944 Monarch lathe 16x54
On 2013-06-07, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Don' please elaborate on "smaller motor and spindle held in big chuck". Sounds interesting. Ivan Vegvary. Well ... lots of possible ways to do it. One would be a spindle which passes though the main spindle and is held in the large chuck. That one would be driven by an outboard motor which couples in through the back of the spindle. Another would be a spindle (and bearings) held in the big chuck with a pulley on the workpiece side of the big chuck, and with a belt going to a motor behind the bed -- and likely behind the headstock as well. In any case, you want to lock the spindle by engaging both back gears and direct drive (unless this is purely gears inside the headstock, in which case I would look for some form of spindle lock on the headstock. And interlock it so nobody can power up the main spindle, because that would beat the motor and the bed to death. Without seeing the lathe, I don't know what would work best -- and it would also be dependent on what parts you could find. For a really small setup, something like the spindle cartridge from a Unimat SL-1000 (goes for insane prices these days, because they are collector's items). For that, you would have to make a drive tube which threads onto the outside end of the Unmat spindle cartridge in place of the pulley and nut, and extends outside the far end of the main spindle. Install a bearing on the outboard end of the drive tube which is a nice fit inside the outboard end of the big spindle. This would then let you use some small three and four jaw chucks, and with creative work and the WW (watchmaker's) spindle for the Unimat, even really tiny collets. I wonder whether you could take the spindle cartridge out of a Taig lathe -- a little bigger than a Unimat SL-1000, and a lot more affordable, since it hasn't become a "Collector's Item". What you would lose would be any existing power feeds on the lathe, and have to come up with some other way to do those, too. Maybe mount a small cross-slide and compound on the big one, to give you finer feeds. Just some speculation. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Remove oil spill source from e-mail Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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