I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"
rebar.
Can rebar be welded reliabley?
What rod would work best?


Best Regards
Tom.

I used to use rebar for grates in our maple syrup evaporator. I just used
6013 in my stick buzz box because that's what I had. the welds stuck okay,
but, of course, the rebar just corroded away and didn't even last for a
whole season.
Anyway, I have heard that rebar comes in many alloys. I doubt that is it
ever REAL high in carbon content, but some of it does harden up pretty good.
Us blacksmiths (or blacksmith wanna-bees) sometimes use it for chisels and
punches). I'm thinking that 7018 wire would probably do a pretty good job
on most kinds of rebar.
But----- I always have a few dozen sticks of "Super Missile Weld"
(Welco?) around. I use it whenever I have some ferrous metals that I am
not sure about. It always seems to work, but not cheap. I think it's a
stainless steel alloy of some sort.

Pete Stanaitis
----------------

"Howard Beal" wrote in message
...
I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"
rebar.
Can rebar be welded reliabley?
What rod would work best?


Best Regards
Tom.

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 17:41:16 -0800, "Howard Beal"
wrote:

I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"
rebar.
Can rebar be welded reliabley?
What rod would work best?


Best Regards
Tom.


Some...some rebar can be welded. There are about 15 different alloys
of the stuff. From utter crap suitable only for burial in concrete to
hide it..to some pretty decent weldable material

I cant tell which is which from looking at it. So I tend to braze
it..which Usually..usually works. Mostly. Kinda Sorta. Sometimes

I think you would be better off with using plain jane black pipe
however.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 17:41:16 -0800, "Howard Beal"
wrote:

I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"
rebar.
Can rebar be welded reliabley?
What rod would work best?


Best Regards
Tom.


Some...some rebar can be welded. There are about 15 different alloys
of the stuff. From utter crap suitable only for burial in concrete to
hide it..to some pretty decent weldable material

I cant tell which is which from looking at it. So I tend to braze
it..which Usually..usually works. Mostly. Kinda Sorta. Sometimes

I think you would be better off with using plain jane black pipe
however.

Gunner



About like working with bed frame "steel" They just toss in whatever
happens to be in the scrap pile. Form it then test it to determine which
alloy it comes close to. The only way to know what you really have would
be to spec out an alloy and have it run.

--
Steve W.

On Jan 17, 7:41*pm, "Howard Beal" wrote:
I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"
rebar.
Can rebar be welded reliabley?
What rod would work best?

Best Regards
Tom.

There's a discussion he
http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=55969

It doesn't look like a good idea because of the chances of getting
high carbon steel and embrittled welds. Without knowing the carbon
content of the material, I'd probably test all the joints with a
hammer (impact) and proceed with caution.

On Friday, January 18, 2013 4:18:50 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
Gunner wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 17:41:16 -0800, "Howard Beal"

wrote:



I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"

rebar.

Can rebar be welded reliabley?

What rod would work best?





Best Regards

Tom.





Some...some rebar can be welded. There are about 15 different alloys

of the stuff. From utter crap suitable only for burial in concrete to

hide it..to some pretty decent weldable material



I cant tell which is which from looking at it. So I tend to braze

it..which Usually..usually works. Mostly. Kinda Sorta. Sometimes



I think you would be better off with using plain jane black pipe

however.



Gunner







About like working with bed frame "steel" They just toss in whatever

happens to be in the scrap pile. Form it then test it to determine which

alloy it comes close to. The only way to know what you really have would

be to spec out an alloy and have it run.



--

Steve W.

The only way to know *in advance* would be to spec it out. You can test it after the fact with various stuff from http://www.koslow.com .

On Thursday, January 17, 2013 8:41:16 PM UTC-5, Howard Beal wrote:
I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"

rebar.

Can rebar be welded reliabley?

What rod would work best?





Best Regards

Tom.

Commuting to a job several years ago, I crossed over a bridge daily that was in the process of being reconstructed. There was a lot of rebar being welded, but I assume that they were using something more fully spec'd than the stuff from Home Depot.

Remember home rebar is junk metal from China. It doesn't have a spec.

Rebar for bridges and high rises runways and such are specified steel
and welds well like steel.

It is just like cast iron pipe and flanges. Some weld with Nickel just
fine. The Chinese versions seem like they are full of air and flatten
out over a wide area.

Martin

On 1/18/2013 12:12 PM, rangerssuck wrote:
On Friday, January 18, 2013 4:18:50 AM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
Gunner wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 17:41:16 -0800, "Howard Beal"

wrote:



I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"

rebar.

Can rebar be welded reliabley?

What rod would work best?





Best Regards

Tom.





Some...some rebar can be welded. There are about 15 different alloys

of the stuff. From utter crap suitable only for burial in concrete to

hide it..to some pretty decent weldable material



I cant tell which is which from looking at it. So I tend to braze

it..which Usually..usually works. Mostly. Kinda Sorta. Sometimes



I think you would be better off with using plain jane black pipe

however.



Gunner







About like working with bed frame "steel" They just toss in whatever

happens to be in the scrap pile. Form it then test it to determine which

alloy it comes close to. The only way to know what you really have would

be to spec out an alloy and have it run.



--

Steve W.

The only way to know *in advance* would be to spec it out. You can test it after the fact with various stuff from http://www.koslow.com .

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 17:41:16 -0800, "Howard Beal"
wrote:

I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"
rebar.
Can rebar be welded reliabley?
What rod would work best?


Best Regards
Tom.

"Consumer Grade" Rebar is a total crapshoot as to it's composition and
weldability - it's literally melted down scrap that only has to meet
real loose specs, and often has half-melted ball bearings and bits of
carbide and stellite from valve seats and busted up scrap cars...

Get new small round bar or angle iron to weld up your shelves, and
you'll have a chance of making something that can last.

You can get Good Rebar that holds to the same metal composition
guarantees as bar stock and will weld nicely, but you'll pay as much
if not more for it than new bar stock. If you really don't need the
formed in bumps to hold the concrete, just get the plain bar stock.

-- Bruce --

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message
...
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 17:41:16 -0800, "Howard Beal"
wrote:

I am thinking of using rebar for a project. Some stout shelving using 5/8"
rebar.
Can rebar be welded reliabley?
What rod would work best?


Best Regards
Tom.

"Consumer Grade" Rebar is a total crapshoot as to it's composition and
weldability - it's literally melted down scrap that only has to meet
real loose specs, and often has half-melted ball bearings and bits of
carbide and stellite from valve seats and busted up scrap cars...

Get new small round bar or angle iron to weld up your shelves, and
you'll have a chance of making something that can last.

You can get Good Rebar that holds to the same metal composition
guarantees as bar stock and will weld nicely, but you'll pay as much
if not more for it than new bar stock. If you really don't need the
formed in bumps to hold the concrete, just get the plain bar stock.

-- Bruce --

Bought some real steel for that project, the guy at lowes told me that
the rebar they sell is weldable. I checked lowes website, website say
thier rebar is not weldable.

Best Regards
Tom.

I'd believe the website, rather than the
guy who says "fries with that?".

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Howard Beal" wrote in message
...

You can get Good Rebar that holds to the same metal composition
guarantees as bar stock and will weld nicely, but you'll pay as much
if not more for it than new bar stock. If you really don't need the
formed in bumps to hold the concrete, just get the plain bar stock.

-- Bruce --

Bought some real steel for that project, the guy at lowes told me that
the rebar they sell is weldable. I checked lowes website, website say
thier rebar is not weldable.

Best Regards
Tom.