Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default OT bought an economical car

On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 19:26:06 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 18:01:12 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Gunner wrote:
On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 14:30:45 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:52:20 -0500
Ignoramus28557 wrote:

snip
It has only two problems, one is that the heater does not work...
If you have the V6, this post may be of interest:

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61...ng-system.html

Sounds like the Germans made a hash out of designing the coolant
system if it had to be bled in such odeous ways.

Btw...any one care to give me a few hints on a 97 Saturn overheating
problem?

If I pull the hose off the upper end of the engine..the return
line..and put a garden hose in it to keep the radiator filled while
running..I only get the volume of the garden hose back out of the
engine while its running...

It just spurts and sputters a very small amount of water from the
engine without the hose.

I replaced the water pump 8 months ago..... Autozone.

Did it fail?

How much volume should a saturn water pump actually push with water in
the radiator? More than spurts and ?


Gunner


Which model and engine?


SL2. No idea of what the motor is. The SL2s all appear to be the same
4 cylinder.


SL2 is the twin cam

Is the thermostat installed when you do this test? If so is it in
correctly? The thermal bulb needs to face the block side of the system.

Pull the thermostat out and try the test again.


I had to take the termostat apart. The bulb element is part of the
intake connection. When you buy a thermostat for the car..it includes
the hose bib.

Next hit a parts store and grab a coolant system pressure tester. (they
are loaner/rental tools and AZ should have one)
Test it to see if it holds pressure as it is also possible it has an
internal leak causing an overheat.


Ill do that.

No water showing in the oil at all and no water or oil coming out the
exhaust....so that leaves out most head gasket /cracked block issues

It acts like the impeller on the pump simply isnt doing much of
anything.

Gunner

"The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered
by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire

I have had several cars with that problem.

The plastic impeller on the 2.5 liter V6 Mystique had a habit of
splitting at about 6000 engine RPM. The metal ones were fine. I didn't
know which mine had when I bought it, so I took it up to about 6500
RPM under accelleration, and the temperatue went way up shortly after.
Replaced with a metal impeller plug.

On my '63 Valiant or my '69 dart - cannot remember any more which one,
I used to have intermittent overheating problems. It ended up, after
replacing thermostat several times, and checking anything that could
POSSIBLY be causing the overheating, I pulled off the water pump - and
under carefull inspection, found evidence that the (if I remember
correctly)alloy impeller had turned on the steel shaft. I warmed up
the impeller with a torch and it almost fell off. Put in a new pump,
and no more overheating
  #42   Report Post  
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Posts: 1,705
Default OT bought an economical car

SL2. No idea of what the motor is. The SL2s all appear to be the same
4 cylinder.
Is the thermostat installed when you do this test? If so is it in
correctly? The thermal bulb needs to face the block side of the system.

Pull the thermostat out and try the test again.


I had to take the termostat apart. The bulb element is part of the
intake connection. When you buy a thermostat for the car..it includes
the hose bib.
Next hit a parts store and grab a coolant system pressure tester. (they
are loaner/rental tools and AZ should have one)
Test it to see if it holds pressure as it is also possible it has an
internal leak causing an overheat.


Ill do that.

No water showing in the oil at all and no water or oil coming out the
exhaust....so that leaves out most head gasket /cracked block issues

It acts like the impeller on the pump simply isnt doing much of
anything.

Gunner

"The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered
by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire



Check your E-Mail

--
Steve W.
  #43   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 1,346
Default OT bought an economical car

On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 23:07:34 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 19:26:06 -0700, Gunner
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 18:01:12 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Gunner wrote:
On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 14:30:45 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:52:20 -0500
Ignoramus28557 wrote:

snip
It has only two problems, one is that the heater does not work...
If you have the V6, this post may be of interest:

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61...ng-system.html

Sounds like the Germans made a hash out of designing the coolant
system if it had to be bled in such odeous ways.

Btw...any one care to give me a few hints on a 97 Saturn overheating
problem?

If I pull the hose off the upper end of the engine..the return
line..and put a garden hose in it to keep the radiator filled while
running..I only get the volume of the garden hose back out of the
engine while its running...

It just spurts and sputters a very small amount of water from the
engine without the hose.

I replaced the water pump 8 months ago..... Autozone.

Did it fail?

How much volume should a saturn water pump actually push with water in
the radiator? More than spurts and ?


Gunner

Which model and engine?


SL2. No idea of what the motor is. The SL2s all appear to be the same
4 cylinder.


SL2 is the twin cam

Is the thermostat installed when you do this test? If so is it in
correctly? The thermal bulb needs to face the block side of the system.

Pull the thermostat out and try the test again.


I had to take the termostat apart. The bulb element is part of the
intake connection. When you buy a thermostat for the car..it includes
the hose bib.

Next hit a parts store and grab a coolant system pressure tester. (they
are loaner/rental tools and AZ should have one)
Test it to see if it holds pressure as it is also possible it has an
internal leak causing an overheat.


Ill do that.

No water showing in the oil at all and no water or oil coming out the
exhaust....so that leaves out most head gasket /cracked block issues

It acts like the impeller on the pump simply isnt doing much of
anything.

Gunner

"The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered
by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire

I have had several cars with that problem.

The plastic impeller on the 2.5 liter V6 Mystique had a habit of
splitting at about 6000 engine RPM. The metal ones were fine. I didn't
know which mine had when I bought it, so I took it up to about 6500
RPM under accelleration, and the temperatue went way up shortly after.
Replaced with a metal impeller plug.

On my '63 Valiant or my '69 dart - cannot remember any more which one,
I used to have intermittent overheating problems. It ended up, after
replacing thermostat several times, and checking anything that could
POSSIBLY be causing the overheating, I pulled off the water pump - and
under carefull inspection, found evidence that the (if I remember
correctly)alloy impeller had turned on the steel shaft. I warmed up
the impeller with a torch and it almost fell off. Put in a new pump,
and no more overheating


Steel impeller..but Im starting to think you are correct.

And its such a bitch to get that water pump out. Damnit!!

Gunner

"The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered
by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire
  #44   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 1,346
Default OT bought an economical car

On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 23:39:12 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

SL2. No idea of what the motor is. The SL2s all appear to be the same
4 cylinder.
Is the thermostat installed when you do this test? If so is it in
correctly? The thermal bulb needs to face the block side of the system.

Pull the thermostat out and try the test again.


I had to take the termostat apart. The bulb element is part of the
intake connection. When you buy a thermostat for the car..it includes
the hose bib.
Next hit a parts store and grab a coolant system pressure tester. (they
are loaner/rental tools and AZ should have one)
Test it to see if it holds pressure as it is also possible it has an
internal leak causing an overheat.


Ill do that.

No water showing in the oil at all and no water or oil coming out the
exhaust....so that leaves out most head gasket /cracked block issues

It acts like the impeller on the pump simply isnt doing much of
anything.

Gunner

"The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered
by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire



Check your E-Mail



Thanks! I believe you are right..and Ive spun an impeller. And its
such a pain in the ass pulling the water pump on these cars.

Damnit

Gunner

"The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered
by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire
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