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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#41
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OT bought an economical car
On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 19:26:06 -0700, Gunner
wrote: On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 18:01:12 -0400, "Steve W." wrote: Gunner wrote: On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 14:30:45 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote: On Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:52:20 -0500 Ignoramus28557 wrote: snip It has only two problems, one is that the heater does not work... If you have the V6, this post may be of interest: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61...ng-system.html Sounds like the Germans made a hash out of designing the coolant system if it had to be bled in such odeous ways. Btw...any one care to give me a few hints on a 97 Saturn overheating problem? If I pull the hose off the upper end of the engine..the return line..and put a garden hose in it to keep the radiator filled while running..I only get the volume of the garden hose back out of the engine while its running... It just spurts and sputters a very small amount of water from the engine without the hose. I replaced the water pump 8 months ago..... Autozone. Did it fail? How much volume should a saturn water pump actually push with water in the radiator? More than spurts and ? Gunner Which model and engine? SL2. No idea of what the motor is. The SL2s all appear to be the same 4 cylinder. SL2 is the twin cam Is the thermostat installed when you do this test? If so is it in correctly? The thermal bulb needs to face the block side of the system. Pull the thermostat out and try the test again. I had to take the termostat apart. The bulb element is part of the intake connection. When you buy a thermostat for the car..it includes the hose bib. Next hit a parts store and grab a coolant system pressure tester. (they are loaner/rental tools and AZ should have one) Test it to see if it holds pressure as it is also possible it has an internal leak causing an overheat. Ill do that. No water showing in the oil at all and no water or oil coming out the exhaust....so that leaves out most head gasket /cracked block issues It acts like the impeller on the pump simply isnt doing much of anything. Gunner "The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire I have had several cars with that problem. The plastic impeller on the 2.5 liter V6 Mystique had a habit of splitting at about 6000 engine RPM. The metal ones were fine. I didn't know which mine had when I bought it, so I took it up to about 6500 RPM under accelleration, and the temperatue went way up shortly after. Replaced with a metal impeller plug. On my '63 Valiant or my '69 dart - cannot remember any more which one, I used to have intermittent overheating problems. It ended up, after replacing thermostat several times, and checking anything that could POSSIBLY be causing the overheating, I pulled off the water pump - and under carefull inspection, found evidence that the (if I remember correctly)alloy impeller had turned on the steel shaft. I warmed up the impeller with a torch and it almost fell off. Put in a new pump, and no more overheating |
#42
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT bought an economical car
SL2. No idea of what the motor is. The SL2s all appear to be the same
4 cylinder. Is the thermostat installed when you do this test? If so is it in correctly? The thermal bulb needs to face the block side of the system. Pull the thermostat out and try the test again. I had to take the termostat apart. The bulb element is part of the intake connection. When you buy a thermostat for the car..it includes the hose bib. Next hit a parts store and grab a coolant system pressure tester. (they are loaner/rental tools and AZ should have one) Test it to see if it holds pressure as it is also possible it has an internal leak causing an overheat. Ill do that. No water showing in the oil at all and no water or oil coming out the exhaust....so that leaves out most head gasket /cracked block issues It acts like the impeller on the pump simply isnt doing much of anything. Gunner "The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire Check your E-Mail -- Steve W. |
#44
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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OT bought an economical car
On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 23:39:12 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote: SL2. No idea of what the motor is. The SL2s all appear to be the same 4 cylinder. Is the thermostat installed when you do this test? If so is it in correctly? The thermal bulb needs to face the block side of the system. Pull the thermostat out and try the test again. I had to take the termostat apart. The bulb element is part of the intake connection. When you buy a thermostat for the car..it includes the hose bib. Next hit a parts store and grab a coolant system pressure tester. (they are loaner/rental tools and AZ should have one) Test it to see if it holds pressure as it is also possible it has an internal leak causing an overheat. Ill do that. No water showing in the oil at all and no water or oil coming out the exhaust....so that leaves out most head gasket /cracked block issues It acts like the impeller on the pump simply isnt doing much of anything. Gunner "The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire Check your E-Mail Thanks! I believe you are right..and Ive spun an impeller. And its such a pain in the ass pulling the water pump on these cars. Damnit Gunner "The best government is a benevolent tyranny tempered by an occasional assassination." --Voltaire |
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