I am using Manchester cutoff tools. I can get inserts in zero, 5 and
12 degree. 5 degree seems to work best for most things, zero for
when I am grooving. When would 12 degree be used? Is it dependant on
material?

Any rule of thumb to apply here.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 16:21:02 -0400, Randy333
wrote:

I am using Manchester cutoff tools. I can get inserts in zero, 5 and
12 degree. 5 degree seems to work best for most things, zero for
when I am grooving. When would 12 degree be used? Is it dependant on
material?

Any rule of thumb to apply here.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

Anyone got anything to add here to this off topic non-politics post?

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 09:03:14 -0400, Randy333 wrote:

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 16:21:02 -0400, Randy333
wrote:

I am using Manchester cutoff tools. I can get inserts in zero, 5 and
12 degree. 5 degree seems to work best for most things, zero for
when I am grooving. When would 12 degree be used? Is it dependant on
material?

Any rule of thumb to apply here.

Anyone got anything to add here to this off topic non-politics post?

I am not well-informed about when/where to use 12-degree inserts, but
would expect an angle like that for cutting aluminum or plastics, and
a still-higher angle for cutting wood. Also, some 12 degree inserts
are for parting or roughing mild steel if I understand correctly.

--
jiw

On 2012-10-02, Randy333 wrote:
On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 16:21:02 -0400, Randy333
wrote:

I am using Manchester cutoff tools. I can get inserts in zero, 5 and
12 degree. 5 degree seems to work best for most things, zero for
when I am grooving. When would 12 degree be used? Is it dependant on
material?

Any rule of thumb to apply here.

[ ... ]

Anyone got anything to add here to this off topic non-politics post?


Well ... I don't use inserts very often for parting, but I would
suggest that the 12 degree might work well with aluminum, and maybe some
plastics up close to where they are held.

And you probably should prefer the 0 degree for parting brass as
well -- it tends to self-feed with rake. Same with "dubbing" (removing
the rake for a short distance at the end of the drill bit) twist drills
to prevent diving through when the hole breaks through.

Mostly -- try and see what work for you, your materials, and
your machines.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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