I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Drill a pilot hole and cut out with a coping saw? If the inside of the tank
is not accessible, make a handle (duct tape?) for the blade so the free end
is exposed. Orient the teeth so they cut on the pull stroke.

Tim Wescott wrote:
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

must the hole be round?

if not, drill a crappy hole with a trist drill and then tear the rest size
with good needle nose pliers.

I've opened canned food with needle nose pliers, so I know they can cut
such metal pretty nicely.

"anorton" wrote in message
m...

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Drill a pilot hole and cut out with a coping saw? If the inside of the
tank is not accessible, make a handle (duct tape?) for the blade so the
free end is exposed. Orient the teeth so they cut on the pull stroke.


Another method I have used: drill a pilot hole and enlarge carefully to size
with a dremel grinding bit.

Tim Wescott fired this volley in
:

need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big
hunks of tin -- so that's a no-go.


Tim,
A "spur drill" comes to mind, but you don't have one. I might suggest
another way, without buying another tool (just yet).

Shorten your step drill. Just grind off the offending length. They're
not all that expensive, and you can keep the ground off version for
future "shallow-by-wide" drilling projects.

Use a cut-off wheel, or go VERY slowly on a grinder, cooling frequently
in water to avoid drawing the temper of the metal.

LLoyd


Lloyd

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10
or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting.
I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big
hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend,
and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be
able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or
money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's
longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up
the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to
suggestions.

A 1/2" one-flute countersink may do the job well enough.
http://aeroconsystems.com/misc/rattpak_countersink.jpg

You could turn your own one-step drill bit from drill rod. Mill 1/4 to
1/2 off of it with an end mill to get a radial cutting edge. It might
drill the can without hardening.

I made an emergency one to open up truck spring u-bolt holes from 1/2"
to 5/8", so the kid could get his truck back together and out of my
driveway. It was milled half-round and definitely did need to be
hardened, twice to get it right.

jsw

Tim Wescott wrote:

I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Punch the hole with a hollow punch (HF has a set cheap) backed by
hardwood. The slight bent edge will just help with soldering.

On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:49:31 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:49:31 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

If it's one hole, I'd use a piece of 1/2 copper or other pipe, a
circular dam of putty, and some abrasive, the way you'd drill one or a
couple of holes in glass.

Water will work for a lubricant/retaining liquid.

--
Ed Huntress

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Can you solder the fitting on first and then drill thru it?
Art

On Apr 18, 5:49*pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). *So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. *I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. *So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. *I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Softwarehttp://www.wescottdesign.com

Ragged hole a bit bigger and solder in a thicker piece with a good
hole?

I'm flying electrics myself, would like a gas plane as an occasional
luxury though.

On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:59:07 -0800, Artemus wrote:

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big
hunks of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able
to do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or
money I don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror
Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative
friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have
found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Can you solder the fitting on first and then drill thru it? Art

Almost, but not quite.

It's a brass ring with 40TPI threads, about 0.4" inner diameter, to clear
a clunk weight. (This is like, way gonzo from a model airplane
standpoint. But the contest is THIS WEEKEND, and neither the weather nor
my work schedule are going to allow test flights. So, I do something
that may or may not work, and I may or may not have a spare plane on
Saturday).

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:59:07 -0800, Artemus wrote:

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big
hunks of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able
to do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or
money I don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror
Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative
friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have
found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Can you solder the fitting on first and then drill thru it? Art

Almost, but not quite.

It's a brass ring with 40TPI threads, about 0.4" inner diameter, to clear
a clunk weight. (This is like, way gonzo from a model airplane
standpoint. But the contest is THIS WEEKEND, and neither the weather nor
my work schedule are going to allow test flights. So, I do something
that may or may not work, and I may or may not have a spare plane on
Saturday).

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Drill a 1/2" hole in a brass plate. Solder this to the tank and
drill thru it. Unsolder the brass plate and Bob's your uncle.
Art

On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:15:01 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big
hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able
to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money
I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

A 1/2" one-flute countersink may do the job well enough.
http://aeroconsystems.com/misc/rattpak_countersink.jpg

Thank you. I happened to have one, and it made a nice clean round hole
-- just like I wanted. My ass is saved -- for the moment.

It's one of those head-smackingly obvious things in hindsight, isn't it?

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:00:54 -0700, Dave__67 wrote:

On Apr 18, 5:49Â*pm, Tim Wescott wrote:
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). Â*So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. Â*I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big
hunks of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. Â*So I'd like to be able
to do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or
money I don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror
Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. Â*I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook. My conservative
friends think I'm a liberal kook. Why am I not happy that they have
found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits &
Softwarehttp://www.wescottdesign.com

Ragged hole a bit bigger and solder in a thicker piece with a good hole?

I'm flying electrics myself, would like a gas plane as an occasional
luxury though.

I've got all this "wet power" stuff lying around, and '08 through '10
were very bad news for me. So I can't quite swing the investment for the
changeover.

But I'd like to -- I'd most certainly like to.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

If you have a CNC mill or a rotary table, mill out a circle using a
very small end mill.

i

On 2012-04-18, Tim Wescott wrote:
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

Hey Tim,

i have not read "down" my list here, so maybe you have better
suggestions already, but:
Get somewthing, a flat washer perhaps, with a hole in it the size you
want. Tape it to the tank so it is rigid temporarily. Poke a
smallish hole in the tank, and then run a Dremel stone around and
around until you are "tracing" the inside of the "washer".

Problen will be cleaning the "swarf" out the tank then.

Good luck. Let us know how you fare at the "contest"?

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXX

On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:49:31 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:15:01 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
A 1/2" one-flute countersink may do the job well enough.

Thank you. I happened to have one, and it made a nice clean round
hole
-- just like I wanted. My ass is saved -- for the moment.

It's one of those head-smackingly obvious things in hindsight, isn't
it?
Tim Wescott

Only after trying it. See what a multi-flute countersink does on a
test piece.

jsw

On 2012-04-18, Tim Wescott wrote:
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

Is the can curved, or do you have a flat place to drill the
hole?

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

If there is no curve, and you can back up with some wood, I
would suggest drilling with a brad point wood drill, which cuts through
at the OD first (not counting the centering brad, of course). This will
probably dull the bit, but it may be expendable.

If you have two of the Unibits, why not cut off the end of one
so you can use the normal one to get up to as far as you can get before
the tip touches the other side, and then use the shortened one to
complete the hole.

If you could live with 9/32", something like my sheet metal
punch pliers (Roper-Whitney No.5) might do. Hmm ... there is another
size, the "Model XX", which can go up to 17/32" hole size -- almost all
the way there.

Here is their web page, in case you are not familiar with these
tools:

http://roperwhitney.com/punching/2-45.cfm

For that matter -- do you have the T-handled tapered reamer? It
will go up to 1/2" (though it is rather long for your can) and I'm not
sure how well it will work in something as thin as your workpiece.

Or -- do you have Greenlee radio chassis punches? They will
work well for this, set the punch on the inside with the points set at
the apex of the curve, and the die on the outside. You'll probably need
about 3/4" to clear the thickness of the die between the ribs of the
can.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Tim Wescott wrote:
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.



grind a twist drill like the picture in the below url. Test it on
another piece of metal.....they work great on sheet metal.

John


http://www.wlfuller.com/html/brad_point_drills.html

On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 21:48:38 -0400, Brian Lawson wrote:


Good luck. Let us know how you fare at the "contest"?


Well, that's almost entirely a done deal. It's control line (model
airplane) precision aerobatics. Last year I was in the beginner class
which is for, well, beginners. It features an abbreviated pattern with
all the really hard maneuvers taken out.

This year I'm moving myself up to intermediate*. All this winter I've
been struggling with trying to get my planes to work right with bigger
tanks that can hold enough fuel to make it through a complete pattern,
but when it hasn't been windy it's been raining buckets -- so I haven't
gotten a whole lot of practice in.

So, "how will you place?" is pretty much predestined to be "at the
bottom". "Did your plane(s) survive?" is more of a mystery -- I'll
report on that one on Sunday. Or, given bad flying, maybe Saturday.

* It has been pointed out on numerous occasions that judging for beginner
and intermediate is way harder than judging for expert. In expert the
rounds are round and the squares are square, and you can pretty much
count bobbles and subtract 1/2 a point each. In beginner and
intermediate you often have to start by asking yourself "what maneuver is
that supposed to be?" and go from there.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Holesaw, comes to mind. The HF hole saws don't work worth a hoot, I find.

Are you drilling the flat end, or into the side?

I've found that using a high speed, and very gentle feed pressure will make
a cleaner hole.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
I've got a little 3oz fuel tank (model airplane) made out of thin
tinplate (a Dole Pineapple Chunk can, actually). So, maybe about 10 or
15mil, with corrugations.

I need to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in it, to solder in a fitting. I
know that if I use a regular 1/2" twist drill I'll just rip out big hunks
of tin -- so that's a no-go.

This is a last-minute rework to get me to a contest this weekend, and
I've spent out the modeling budget this month. So I'd like to be able to
do it with tools I have in the shop rather than spending time or money I
don't have to order something, or even nip around to Horror Freight.

I have a nice stepped drill that goes up to 1/2 inch, but it's longer
than the tank. I may just go ahead and drill through and patch up the
far end -- but if there's a better solution, I'm open to suggestions.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

I think we have a winner.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"anorton" wrote in message
...

Another method I have used: drill a pilot hole and enlarge carefully to size
with a dremel grinding bit.

OK, so that turns out to be the winner. Glad you got the job done.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:15:01 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:


A 1/2" one-flute countersink may do the job well enough.
http://aeroconsystems.com/misc/rattpak_countersink.jpg

Thank you. I happened to have one, and it made a nice clean round hole
-- just like I wanted. My ass is saved -- for the moment.

It's one of those head-smackingly obvious things in hindsight, isn't it?