I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.

Oh, and the lamp is *metal*.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

wrote:

I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.

A diode. Cut out half of the AC cycle and get reduced brightness. Very,
very common, indeed there are/were little socket insert disks made that
you stuck in a light socket to save power.

Pete C. wrote:
wrote:

I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.


A diode. Cut out half of the AC cycle and get reduced brightness. Very,
very common, indeed there are/were little socket insert disks made that
you stuck in a light socket to save power.

A friends son has a filament lamp which has 3 intensities and off and
cycles between them when you touch the metal lamp base itself, no switch
just contact. How would that be done.

wrote in message
...
I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.

Oh, and the lamp is *metal*.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Unlike a regular tungsten filament lamp, a halogen lamp actually will burn
out much more quickly at reduced power if the temperture of the envelope
drops below the point needed for the halogen cycle.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halogen...#Halogen_cycle

David Billington wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
wrote:

I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.


A diode. Cut out half of the AC cycle and get reduced brightness. Very,
very common, indeed there are/were little socket insert disks made that
you stuck in a light socket to save power.

A friends son has a filament lamp which has 3 intensities and off and
cycles between them when you touch the metal lamp base itself, no switch
just contact. How would that be done.

Simple touch switch controller, uses several fixed levels of regular
triac phase control for the dimming. You can buy the control module for
like $5 to add to any lamp that has some metal surface you can use for
the touch switch.

On 2012-02-28, wrote:
I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

The way I would do it is to put a diode in series with the lamp
on the low-intensity setting. I would guess that it is possible that
the diode could be inside the switch housing.

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.

Oh, and the lamp is *metal*.

That is good -- so many are plastic these days. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 28 Feb 2012 01:38:18 +0000, David Billington
wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
wrote:

I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.


A diode. Cut out half of the AC cycle and get reduced brightness. Very,
very common, indeed there are/were little socket insert disks made that
you stuck in a light socket to save power.

A friends son has a filament lamp which has 3 intensities and off and
cycles between them when you touch the metal lamp base itself, no switch
just contact. How would that be done.
Capacitive touch switch and a "tri-lite" bulb.

On 28 Feb 2012 03:09:25 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2012-02-28, wrote:
I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

The way I would do it is to put a diode in series with the lamp
on the low-intensity setting. I would guess that it is possible that
the diode could be inside the switch housing.

Correct. A dirt-cheap 1N5404, hidden inside the switch. Half-wave
rectifier properties etc. have already been mentioned.

I thought it was a neat trick. A resistor achieving the same thing
would have to be of the order of 17W or so.

BTW neither the people who sold the lamp nor the experts in the two
specialist electrical shops knew the answer.

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.

Oh, and the lamp is *metal*.

That is good -- so many are plastic these days. :-)

Purely so I don't have mark the thread "OT".

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Many semiconductors wouldn't exist if not for deposited forms of various
metals.. nor would many forms of illumination devices.

So generally, still on topic even if by trace amounts, which is far greater
than many of the bull**** hero worship/hate posts appearing every day.

--
WB
..........


wrote in message
...
On 28 Feb 2012 03:09:25 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

snippets not present

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

The way I would do it is to put a diode in series with the lamp
on the low-intensity setting. I would guess that it is possible that
the diode could be inside the switch housing.

Correct. A dirt-cheap 1N5404, hidden inside the switch. Half-wave
rectifier properties etc. have already been mentioned.

I thought it was a neat trick. A resistor achieving the same thing
would have to be of the order of 17W or so.

BTW neither the people who sold the lamp nor the experts in the two
specialist electrical shops knew the answer.

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.

Oh, and the lamp is *metal*.

That is good -- so many are plastic these days. :-)

Purely so I don't have mark the thread "OT".

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Already been answered, but it's the same method used in some cheap models of
soldering irons for a hi-lo selector switch.

When diodes are used with light bulbs, I find the flicker very annoying. I
bought an advanced-technology? high intensity lamp a number of years ago
(maybe $8 or more, definitely more than several boxes of normal
incandescents), and it turned out to contain an internal diode, which made
it useless for me, for close-up work requiring more light.

It was an odd lamp, in that it weighed a lot (probably about a pound) and
was thick glass (thicker than a typical outdoor flood/spot lamp), and had a
coating of some strange foggy, translucent rubbery coating on the outside of
the glass envelope.
It may have been a Sylvania product, and had weird angled conical shapes
with a flat top when held upright (threaded base pointing down).

Turn it upside down and put a cap on it, and some artsy design school
marketing type would think it an attractive bottle for a new product
rollout.. thinking back further, it looked like a cologne bottle I remember
from the 60s.

--
WB
..........


wrote in message
...
I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

I actually know the answer because I took the switch apart but when I
was looking for it before on Google etc. I could not find it.

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.

Oh, and the lamp is *metal*.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

On 2012-02-28, David Billington wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
wrote:

I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

[ ... ]

I am posting here to see how widely this trick is known.

A diode. Cut out half of the AC cycle and get reduced brightness. Very,
very common, indeed there are/were little socket insert disks made that
you stuck in a light socket to save power.

A friends son has a filament lamp which has 3 intensities and off and
cycles between them when you touch the metal lamp base itself, no switch
just contact. How would that be done.

First off -- the base is serving as an antenna to pick up stray
AC noise from the room, and when you touch it you increase the level to
above a pre-set threshold. It then waits for the noise to go down below
the threshold and back up again to switch to the next.

If the bulb is not a three-way bulb (two filaments of different
wattages used one at a time or both together), then it probably has a
transformer with its secondary in series with the AC line to the lamp,
and switched to either aid, oppose, or switched out of the circuit
entirely. This should give you three brightnesses.

Or, another (cheaper) way to get the brightnesses (with the same
switching sensor for the touch base trick) would be to change the width
of the part of the AC cycle which is allowed to reach the lamp -- like a
dimmer with three steps instead of continuously variable. Since that is
cheaper, it is probably how they went. Try picking it up and judging by
the weight whether it has a transformer in the base.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2012-02-29, wrote:
On 28 Feb 2012 03:09:25 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2012-02-28, wrote:
I have a bedside lamp with a 100W halogen lamp which runs directly off
110V. In the base of the lamp is a small rotary switch about 3/4" in
diameter. It has three positions: Full intensity, reduced intensity
and off. No other parts are discernible.

The question is: How does the lamp achieve the reduction in light
intensity (about half)?

The way I would do it is to put a diode in series with the lamp
on the low-intensity setting. I would guess that it is possible that
the diode could be inside the switch housing.

Correct. A dirt-cheap 1N5404, hidden inside the switch. Half-wave
rectifier properties etc. have already been mentioned.

I thought it was a neat trick. A resistor achieving the same thing
would have to be of the order of 17W or so.

And the resistor would be sensitive to the wattage of the bulb
installed -- assuming that it was a kind where various bulbs would fit
it. And the switch would probably get rather uncomfortably hot to the
touch after a while of operation. :-)

BTW neither the people who sold the lamp nor the experts in the two
specialist electrical shops knew the answer.

Of course not. They aren't members of this newsgroup, where
people care how and why things work.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

wrote

Correct. A dirt-cheap 1N5404, hidden inside the switch. Half-wave
rectifier properties etc. have already been mentioned.

I thought it was a neat trick. A resistor achieving the same thing
would have to be of the order of 17W or so.

BTW neither the people who sold the lamp nor the experts in the two
specialist electrical shops knew the answer.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

There's an old parlor trick with two switches and two bulbs wired in a
series loop where each switch controls a bulb independently.
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/7...circuit1tb.jpg
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/1263/circuit25jw.jpg

You build it with porcelain-base knife switches and lamp sockets each
on a separate small wood block, connected with a single strand of
solid or clear-insulation speaker wire.

With both switches open, both bulbs are off. Close either switch and
its bulb lights even though the other switch is plainly open -- that's
the reason for using knife switches. There is enough open space under
the porcelain base for the diodes, which the wood blocks keep
concealed. Don't show it to technicians who might carry screwdrivers
(like me) and ask to disassemble it.

No one ever notices that the bulbs aren't at full brightness.

I don't have a photo of mine, I took it apart because it is so
dangerous.

jsw

On Monday, February 27, 2012 8:14:14 PM UTC-5, wrote:

[stuff about a diode in series with a lamp]

I put a diode in series with the two lights flanking my front door. In 28 years, I have changed those bulbs only twice. They really like the lower operating temperature, and the orange light is much less annoying than bright white.

Jim Wilkins wrote:

There's an old parlor trick with two switches and two bulbs wired in a
series loop where each switch controls a bulb independently.
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/7...circuit1tb.jpg
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/1263/circuit25jw.jpg

You build it with porcelain-base knife switches and lamp sockets each
on a separate small wood block, connected with a single strand of
solid or clear-insulation speaker wire.

With both switches open, both bulbs are off. Close either switch and
its bulb lights even though the other switch is plainly open -- that's
the reason for using knife switches. There is enough open space under
the porcelain base for the diodes, which the wood blocks keep
concealed. Don't show it to technicians who might carry screwdrivers
(like me) and ask to disassemble it.

No one ever notices that the bulbs aren't at full brightness.

I don't have a photo of mine, I took it apart because it is so
dangerous.


AKA: "The Impossible circuit". You could build one today with LEDs
and a wall wart.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Jim Wilkins wrote:

There's an old parlor trick with two switches and two bulbs wired in a
series loop where each switch controls a bulb independently.

....

No one ever notices that the bulbs aren't at full brightness.

I don't have a photo of mine, I took it apart because it is so
dangerous.

Cute. You could power it with a 24v transformer & use 12v bulbs, for
full brightness and a safe circuit.

Bob

On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:07:23 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

[...]

I don't have a photo of mine, I took it apart because it is so
dangerous.

The concept of dangerous electrical circuits brings back all kinds of
nostalgic memories.

When I worked for a film company (a 1000 years ago) there were two
favorite ways of boiling water for coffee on location:

1) A large wattage resistor connected directly to mains used as an
immersion heater. Note: The mains were 220V.

2) A cup with two plates on top of each other but not touching, each
connected to mains. Pour water directly into the cup, plug in. This
arrangement boiled water literally in 3 seconds.

Yet the only mortality I remember was work-related: A broken cable
under water.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

wrote:
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:07:23 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

[...]

I don't have a photo of mine, I took it apart because it is so
dangerous.

The concept of dangerous electrical circuits brings back all kinds of
nostalgic memories.

When I worked for a film company (a 1000 years ago) there were two
favorite ways of boiling water for coffee on location:

1) A large wattage resistor connected directly to mains used as an
immersion heater. Note: The mains were 220V.

2) A cup with two plates on top of each other but not touching, each
connected to mains. Pour water directly into the cup, plug in. This
arrangement boiled water literally in 3 seconds.

Yet the only mortality I remember was work-related: A broken cable
under water.

One of our high school projects was a wiener
cooker comprised of a plastic shoebox, a
micro-switch and rows of nails to impale the
ends of the unfortunate wieners.
Plug it in and wait for the hot dogs to
cook.

Worked great.

--Winston-- I don't figure they'd do that today.

On Thu, 01 Mar 2012 18:12:36 -0800, the renowned Winston
wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:07:23 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

[...]

I don't have a photo of mine, I took it apart because it is so
dangerous.

The concept of dangerous electrical circuits brings back all kinds of
nostalgic memories.

When I worked for a film company (a 1000 years ago) there were two
favorite ways of boiling water for coffee on location:

1) A large wattage resistor connected directly to mains used as an
immersion heater. Note: The mains were 220V.

2) A cup with two plates on top of each other but not touching, each
connected to mains. Pour water directly into the cup, plug in. This
arrangement boiled water literally in 3 seconds.

Yet the only mortality I remember was work-related: A broken cable
under water.

One of our high school projects was a wiener
cooker comprised of a plastic shoebox, a
micro-switch and rows of nails to impale the
ends of the unfortunate wieners.
Plug it in and wait for the hot dogs to
cook.

Worked great.

--Winston-- I don't figure they'd do that today.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oskay/713401829/



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

The observant Spehro Pefhany wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oskay/713401829/

That is Great!

Next: Vienna sausages, for the low power version.

--Winston

On 3/1/2012 8:41 PM, Winston wrote:
The observant Spehro Pefhany wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oskay/713401829/

That is Great!

Next: Vienna sausages, for the low power version.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh7VHcuaPCg&feature=fvwp&NR=1

--

You ever cook hot dogs with the plug, cord, and two nails?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:07:23 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

The concept of dangerous electrical circuits brings back all kinds of
nostalgic memories.

When I worked for a film company (a 1000 years ago) there were two
favorite ways of boiling water for coffee on location:

1) A large wattage resistor connected directly to mains used as an
immersion heater. Note: The mains were 220V.

2) A cup with two plates on top of each other but not touching, each
connected to mains. Pour water directly into the cup, plug in. This
arrangement boiled water literally in 3 seconds.

Yet the only mortality I remember was work-related: A broken cable
under water.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

That looks fun!

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message
...
--Winston-- I don't figure they'd do that today.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oskay/713401829/

dpb wrote:
On 3/1/2012 8:41 PM, Winston wrote:
The observant Spehro Pefhany wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oskay/713401829/

That is Great!

Next: Vienna sausages, for the low power version.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh7VHcuaPCg&feature=fvwp&NR=1

Electricity, is there no problem it can't solve?

--Winston

On Thu, 01 Mar 2012 18:12:36 -0800, Winston
wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:07:23 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

[...]

I don't have a photo of mine, I took it apart because it is so
dangerous.

The concept of dangerous electrical circuits brings back all kinds of
nostalgic memories.

When I worked for a film company (a 1000 years ago) there were two
favorite ways of boiling water for coffee on location:

1) A large wattage resistor connected directly to mains used as an
immersion heater. Note: The mains were 220V.

2) A cup with two plates on top of each other but not touching, each
connected to mains. Pour water directly into the cup, plug in. This
arrangement boiled water literally in 3 seconds.

Yet the only mortality I remember was work-related: A broken cable
under water.

One of our high school projects was a wiener
cooker comprised of a plastic shoebox, a
micro-switch and rows of nails to impale the
ends of the unfortunate wieners.
Plug it in and wait for the hot dogs to
cook.

Worked great.

--Winston-- I don't figure they'd do that today.
My wife and I received a hot dog cooker 33 years ago as a wedding
present. It worked just like the setup described above. Hot dogs
cooked on it fast but tasted ****ty.
Eric

Wow.. Christmas dinner at the orphanage!

Just goes to show that hotdogs aren't just for ordinary days.

--
WB
..........


"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message
...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oskay/713401829/



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers:
http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers:
http://www.speff.com

The commercially produced product was the Presto HotDogger (as seen on Tv,
probably)..
Nope, not so much a viable product these days, but from back around the time
of Yard Darts and other cool amusements.

--
WB
..........


"Winston" wrote in message
...

One of our high school projects was a wiener
cooker comprised of a plastic shoebox, a
micro-switch and rows of nails to impale the
ends of the unfortunate wieners.
Plug it in and wait for the hot dogs to
cook.

Worked great.

--Winston-- I don't figure they'd do that today.

Winston wrote:

One of our high school projects was a wiener
cooker comprised of a plastic shoebox, a
micro-switch and rows of nails to impale the
ends of the unfortunate wieners.
Plug it in and wait for the hot dogs to
cook.

Worked great.


I was at a thrift store a few weeks ago, where they tried to give me
a 'Hot Dogger' along with some printers.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

You ever cook hot dogs with the plug, cord, and two nails?


Did you hold the nails while it cooked? ;-)


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

No, for that I use my hot dog.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
m...

Stormin Mormon wrote:

You ever cook hot dogs with the plug, cord, and two nails?


Did you hold the nails while it cooked? ;-)


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Winston wrote:

One of our high school projects was a wiener
cooker comprised of a plastic shoebox, a
micro-switch and rows of nails to impale the
ends of the unfortunate wieners.
Plug it in and wait for the hot dogs to
cook.

Worked great.


I was at a thrift store a few weeks ago, where they tried to give me
a 'Hot Dogger' along with some printers.

I'd take the printers and leave the 'Hot Dogger', personally.

--Winston

Winston wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

I was at a thrift store a few weeks ago, where they tried to give me
a 'Hot Dogger' along with some printers.

I'd take the printers and leave the 'Hot Dogger', personally.


I did.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

No, for that I use my hot dog.


Wimp! ;-)


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 04 Mar 2012 09:53:03 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:

No, for that I use my hot dog.


Wimp! ;-)

My (then very young) wife brought one of those hotdog cookers home one
afternoon and fired it up with a big smile on her face, and then placing
the well electrocuted frankfurter in a bun, took a bite..chewed and then
spit it out, proclaiming the hotdogs had gone bad. She then went and got
another package from the store and repeated the test. Second batch
tasted as foul as the first. She took it back and the next day...we
bought a microwave. Our very first and a fairly new item on the market.
Pricey *******s too, at the time.


The most I've ever paid for a microwave was $2. It had a bad door
switch that was replaced with one from my salvaged stock. A few months
later the HV cap went bad and was replaced with a good used part. It is
the only one I ever bought, and I've used them for 28 years. The first
was a huge stainless steel Amana RADAR Range that was built for
commercial use. It needed a 20A circuit, and was big enough for thrre
liberal to dry their hair at the same time.


We were at a yard sale with a frank zapper on the table, still in the
box and I held it up for her..she instantly crinkled up her nose and
instantly and loudly said..YUCK!!! 30 yrs later..the memory stuck.


Some people just don't like high iron hotdogs. ;-)


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

On Sun, 04 Mar 2012 09:40:30 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 04 Mar 2012 09:53:03 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:

No, for that I use my hot dog.


Wimp! ;-)

My (then very young) wife brought one of those hotdog cookers home one
afternoon and fired it up with a big smile on her face, and then placing
the well electrocuted frankfurter in a bun, took a bite..chewed and then
spit it out, proclaiming the hotdogs had gone bad. She then went and got
another package from the store and repeated the test. Second batch
tasted as foul as the first. She took it back and the next day...we
bought a microwave. Our very first and a fairly new item on the market.
Pricey *******s too, at the time.

We were at a yard sale with a frank zapper on the table, still in the
box and I held it up for her..she instantly crinkled up her nose and
instantly and loudly said..YUCK!!! 30 yrs later..the memory stuck.

Amazing thing about those Hot Doggers - the first generation used a
food-grade Stainless for the spikes and they worked fine - then they
used some sort of a Zamac alloy, and you wonder why the dogs tasted
"off"...

Yeah, a Microwave doesn't make metal transfer into the food.

-- Bruce --