I tried a couple of methods of putting a 1/4" curl along a 9" edge of
24 gauge sheet metal but I didn't like the results. My ball pein
hammer/steel rod method took too long and created dents, and my steel
rod-on-hand-break method took too long and didn't work so well. I
thought of cutting a tube in half and putting it in a wooden v-block
kind of thing for support and hammering a rod against the sheet metal
to shove it into the half-tube, but making a good, complete curl like
that didn't seem like a sure thing, so I started leaning toward making
a square bend instead of a round curl. But now I'm thinking that a T-
dolly and matching anvil might be worth a shot. Would I need a custom
die for this or do they make such an anvil/U-block/female T-dolly type
thing?

Barry wrote:
I tried a couple of methods of putting a 1/4" curl along a 9" edge of
24 gauge sheet metal but I didn't like the results.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUIKU...eature=related

Use your bead roller first.



--Winston

I meant to say that I don't want to buy anything as expensive as (the
metalworking version of) that. If the Fimo version was flat-bottom
steel, I might try it. I'll probably square it. I have to jam rivets
in the holes but I could put a tube in the square and anchors in the
tube.

On Jan 24, 11:53 pm, Winston wrote:

Use your bead roller first.

Barry wrote:
I meant to say that I don't want to buy anything as expensive as (the
metalworking version of) that. If the Fimo version was flat-bottom
steel, I might try it. I'll probably square it. I have to jam rivets
in the holes but I could put a tube in the square and anchors in the
tube.

Oh!

Use your Magnabend. See from 6:50 onwards.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oEFXye1gxE

--Winston

Barry wrote:
I tried a couple of methods of putting a 1/4" curl along a 9" edge of
24 gauge sheet metal but I didn't like the results. My ball pein
hammer/steel rod method took too long and created dents, and my steel
rod-on-hand-break method took too long and didn't work so well. I
thought of cutting a tube in half and putting it in a wooden v-block
kind of thing for support and hammering a rod against the sheet metal
to shove it into the half-tube, but making a good, complete curl like
that didn't seem like a sure thing, so I started leaning toward making
a square bend instead of a round curl. But now I'm thinking that a T-
dolly and matching anvil might be worth a shot. Would I need a custom
die for this or do they make such an anvil/U-block/female T-dolly type
thing?

How tight do you need? You can make pretty good bends using some common
angle iron with a large fillet
in the corner and a top die made of steel plate with round stock welded
to the edge.

--
Steve W.

On Jan 25, 1:20*am, Winston wrote:

Use your Magnabend. *See from 6:50 onwards.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oEFXye1gxE

That's basically what I tried, but I used a cheap aluminum brake. I
had to keep clamping and releasing the dowel because I didn't have the
angled keeper shown in the video, which slowed me down, and the
aluminum brake warped as I bent the steel. Part of the problem was the
very tight (1/4") roll I was making, but I think I'll make some
adjustments and try it again.

On Jan 25, 1:45*am, "Steve W." wrote:
How tight do you need? *You can make pretty good bends using some common
angle iron with a large fillet
in the corner and a top die made of steel plate with round stock welded
to the edge.

Yeah, I'm going to fortify my aluminum break and try it again, except
without the welding..

On Jan 25, 2:11*am, Barry wrote:
...I didn't have the
angled keeper

Wait a minute...the keeper IS angled! I just didn't think of using it
to keep the dowel in place! Now my clamps won't get in the way when I
try it again.

On Jan 25, 1:15*am, Barry wrote:
On Jan 25, 1:45*am, "Steve W." wrote:

How tight do you need? *You can make pretty good bends using some common
angle iron with a large fillet
in the corner and a top die made of steel plate with round stock welded
to the edge.

Yeah, I'm going to fortify my aluminum break and try it again, except
without the welding..

I'd just bolt a thick piece of angle iron (upside-down "V") to a
workbench to clamp down on your workpiece. That should be strong
enough to not flex and make a tight bend with the right radius.

On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 20:53:19 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Barry wrote:
I tried a couple of methods of putting a 1/4" curl along a 9" edge of
24 gauge sheet metal but I didn't like the results.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUIKU...eature=related

Use your bead roller first.

Wow, complete with an ItaloAfroed babe and '80s disco music
background. What a treat, Winnie. Thanks for the link!

Here's a very cool HF mod. Nigh onta CNC. wot?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqErTwU1rSE

--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson

On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 05:03:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 20:53:19 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Barry wrote:
I tried a couple of methods of putting a 1/4" curl along a 9" edge of
24 gauge sheet metal but I didn't like the results.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUIKU...eature=related

Use your bead roller first.

Wow, complete with an ItaloAfroed babe and '80s disco music
background. What a treat, Winnie. Thanks for the link!

Here's a very cool HF mod. Nigh onta CNC. wot?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqErTwU1rSE

Oops, one for Barry, too. Rolled wire edge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOcZwr-1Y1E

--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 05:03:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

(...)

Wow, complete with an ItaloAfroed babe and '80s disco music
background. What a treat, Winnie. Thanks for the link!

Whups. See below.

Here's a very cool HF mod. Nigh onta CNC. wot?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqErTwU1rSE

That is fwigging brilliant!

Oops, one for Barry, too. Rolled wire edge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOcZwr-1Y1E

Bup!

That's the video I thought I was linking to, previously.
Not the clay fab thingy. Whups.

--Winston

On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 06:20:40 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 05:03:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

(...)

Wow, complete with an ItaloAfroed babe and '80s disco music
background. What a treat, Winnie. Thanks for the link!

Whups. See below.

Here's a very cool HF mod. Nigh onta CNC. wot?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqErTwU1rSE

That is fwigging brilliant!

Let's see...$179 for the 18" metal fabber on sale ($129 Inside Track
Club price! 7x10" Lathe - $399 ITC this month), $29 for the 1/2" VSR
drill, and a couple bucks for 1x1/8" CRS strap. Sucha deal! (iffen
you need a dimpled dohickey or ten)


Oops, one for Barry, too. Rolled wire edge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOcZwr-1Y1E

Bup!

That's the video I thought I was linking to, previously.
Not the clay fab thingy. Whups.

Oh, suuuuuuuuuuuuure.

--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 06:20:40 -0800,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 05:03:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

(...)

Here's a very cool HF mod. Nigh onta CNC. wot?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqErTwU1rSE

That is fwigging brilliant!

Let's see...$179 for the 18" metal fabber on sale ($129 Inside Track
Club price! 7x10" Lathe - $399 ITC this month), $29 for the 1/2" VSR
drill, and a couple bucks for 1x1/8" CRS strap. Sucha deal! (iffen
you need a dimpled dohickey or ten)

I was thinking more in terms of a springboard for other uses.

Ferinstance that 'cable-activated foot pedal drill trigger
doohicky' would be the cat's pajamas for my Large Coil Winder,
should I ever actually make one.


(...)

That's the video I thought I was linking to, previously.
Not the clay fab thingy. Whups.

Oh, suuuuuuuuuuuuure.

I've got a better excuse than most folks.

--Winston-- This childhood is a *lot* better than my first one.

On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 16:37:47 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 06:20:40 -0800,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 05:03:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

(...)

Here's a very cool HF mod. Nigh onta CNC. wot?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqErTwU1rSE

That is fwigging brilliant!

Let's see...$179 for the 18" metal fabber on sale ($129 Inside Track
Club price! 7x10" Lathe - $399 ITC this month), $29 for the 1/2" VSR
drill, and a couple bucks for 1x1/8" CRS strap. Sucha deal! (iffen
you need a dimpled dohickey or ten)

I was thinking more in terms of a springboard for other uses.

Ferinstance that 'cable-activated foot pedal drill trigger
doohicky' would be the cat's pajamas for my Large Coil Winder,
should I ever actually make one.

I can relate to that concept. The major problem is that I already
-own- a round tuit. sigh


(...)

That's the video I thought I was linking to, previously.
Not the clay fab thingy. Whups.

Oh, suuuuuuuuuuuuure.

I've got a better excuse than most folks.

--Winston-- This childhood is a *lot* better than my first one.

Say "Hi!" to Mr. Alzheimer for me, Win.

--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson

On Jan 25, 8:03*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Here's a very cool HF mod.

He's ruining that drill. He should have used a router.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 16:37:47 -0800,
wrote:

(...)

--Winston-- This childhood is a *lot* better than my first one.

Say "Hi!" to Mr. Alzheimer for me, Win.

I'll try to remember to do that.

--Winston

On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 18:04:49 -0800 (PST), Barry
wrote:

On Jan 25, 8:03*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Here's a very cool HF mod.

He's ruining that drill. He should have used a router.

Nah, that's a -kitchen- item, not a shop tool. To wit:

Dear All,

This afternoon I was foolishly left alone in the kitchen with a
seemingly simple task, whip some cream.

It all started when I was attempting to whip some whipping cream into,
oddly enough, whipped cream with a hand whisk, and it seemed to
require far too much effort on my part. I am sure a Neander would be
quite happy with a hand whisk, but I was looking for a Normite way to
get this done. Now I realise that most people have a power hand mixer,
or what ever they are called, but I don't have one.

I started thinking, hmm, how much different could one of those things
be from a router. All a hand mixer is, is a motor with a Jacobs chuck
like socket for whisks. Now if you think you know where I am going
with this, you are probably correct. I got out the dial callipers and
the shaft of the hand whisk was exactly 1/4". Woo Whoo, first problem
solved, I can use the standard 1/2" to 1/4" bushing. I go out to the
shop and take my three and a quarter horse Hitachi M12V out of the
router table and back into the kitchen. Using my 21mm and custom
ground thin 23mm Craftsman wrenches, I chuck up the whisk. Next
problem, speed. I measured the diameter of the business end of the
whisk and consulted my router bit speed chart. It said I should use
18,000 RPM. The only question left was technique, clockwise or counter
clockwise. Since I was doing an inside cut, I decided on the standard
counter clockwise.

I fired up the big green monster. Good thing the M12V has a soft start
feature, because even with my elbows braced on the countertop, this is
a heavy and unwieldy router to freehand in the air, but the torque was
still more than I was prepared for and I almost lost it. Okay, here we
are, full power. There was a quick blur of chaotic white liquid
filling the air and as the blur subsided I quickly realised the bowl
that previously held two cups of whipping cream was now virtually
devoid of cream. I powered down the router. My face, glasses and upper
body were covered in cream, as were two thirds of the kitchen. My
better half, alerted by the unusual tool noise and loud cursing coming
from the kitchen, walks in to ask just what the hell I thought I was
doing. I wipe off, change clothes and come back to explain myself and
clean up a very large mess.

Once I explained what I was attempting to the young lady I thought was
about to become my ex-wife (I could see it in her face, as she
thought, I cannot believe I actually married someone this stupid, Dad
was right), who is standing in front of me with a look of such total
disbelief that I would have previously thought impossible to display,
I was told that 18,000 rpm was a little too high an rpm for a whisk,
and that a variable speed cordless drill would have been the correct
choice of tool for this task. We were out of whipping cream at this
point, so I will have to wait until after I have a chance to go to the
store tomorrow to find out if the cordless drill works any better.
Damm, now that I think about it, it would seem like the drill press is
the way to go, then I could be just like Martha Stewart, Emeril or the
Cute short blonde lady with the bob haircut who has two shows on the
food network and have one of those big stationary Kitchen Aid looking
mixer thingies, Hmmmm.....

Live and learn.

Thanks,

David.

May you live in Interesting Times - Ancient Chinese Curse.

--From the Wreck, APRIL 1, 2001.

--
Creativity can solve almost any problem. The creative act,
the defeat of habit by originality, overcomes everything.
-- George Lois

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 18:04:49 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Jan 25, 8:03 am, Larry
wrote:

Here's a very cool HF mod.

He's ruining that drill. He should have used a router.

Nah, that's a -kitchen- item, not a shop tool. To wit:

Dear All,

(...)

Excellent!

I was looking for an adapter to change my mixer to a
rattle-can shaker. Perhaps not.

--Winston

A reciprocating saw can be adapted to shake aerosol cans, and someone put a
plan set in the Dropbox within the past several years (for an old, unused
saber saw, IIRC).
There is an adapter available for the larger recip version SawzAll type saw,
but fabricating an attachment isn't prezactly rocket surgery.

An orbital sander (non-rotating pad only, or please make video) such as the
rectangular pad electric models or jitterbug type air powered can be adapted
fairly easily for aerosol cans, but also small fitted-lid cans.

--
WB
..........


"Winston" wrote in message
...

Excellent!

I was looking for an adapter to change my mixer to a
rattle-can shaker. Perhaps not.

--Winston

Wild_Bill wrote:
A reciprocating saw can be adapted to shake aerosol cans, and someone put a plan set in the Dropbox within the past
several years (for an old, unused saber saw, IIRC).

I remember that one.
Very cool except it appeared a little unbalanced, IIRC.

There is an adapter available for the larger recip version SawzAll type saw, but fabricating an attachment isn't
prezactly rocket surgery.

An orbital sander (non-rotating pad only, or please make video) such as the rectangular pad electric models or jitterbug
type air powered can be adapted fairly easily for aerosol cans, but also small fitted-lid cans.

These seem a little too aggressive to me.

Recently I just bent up a little frame out of welding rod
and chucked the middle of it in a small drill held in
a bench vise. In low gear with the trigger held down, it
did a really nice job of mixing the 'rattle can du jour'.

HF is missing a bet here.

--Winston