I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust. I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

"Barry" wrote in message
...
I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust.


I'm not sure running over it with a roller will achieve anything at all.


I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

A sand & degrease is something one would do anyway isn't it?

On Jan 15, 12:52*am, "Dennis" wrote:
"Barry" wrote in message

...

I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust.

I'm not sure running over it with a roller will achieve anything at all.

I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

A sand & degrease is something one would do anyway isn't it?

Yeah, but I haven't been able to find anything about using dish soap
to degrease bare steel and it'm not too optimistic that I could
texture steel by rolling sandpaper on it. The problem with wet sanding
is that I may want to do it on a lot with no drain.

"Barry" wrote in message
...
On Jan 15, 12:52 am, "Dennis" wrote:
"Barry" wrote in message

...

I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust.

I'm not sure running over it with a roller will achieve anything at all.

I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

A sand & degrease is something one would do anyway isn't it?

Yeah, but I haven't been able to find anything about using dish soap
to degrease bare steel and it'm not too optimistic that I could
texture steel by rolling sandpaper on it. The problem with wet sanding
is that I may want to do it on a lot with no drain.


====================================

Dry sand and wipe over with acetone or similar & paint?

On Jan 15, 1:11*am, "Dennis" wrote:

Dry sand and wipe over with acetone or similar & paint?

Yeah, if I want to do it the normal way. I'm trying to go as clean and
safe as I could.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:40:24 -0800 (PST), Barry
wrote:

I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust. I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

Interesting thought. You may be interested in a method used between
coats on boat enamel: After it's partially dried (hours or days,
depending on how "classic" the enamel is), painters will rub over the
first coat with a piece of burlap wrapped around a block of wood. It
flattens the pips and dust motes and leaves the surface ready for the
next coat. Timing is everything. I've never had burlap clean enough
for that, but it must be available. Maybe a fabric shop.

Dish soap is a bad idea unless you follow up with a solvent or strong
alkali detergent. Remember, they put stuff in dish soap to keep your
hands from drying out. Bad news for pre-painting.

As for solvents, if you really care about your job lasting, don't use
acetone you buy from a paint store or Home Depot. It's recycled from
industrial uses, and it's not completely free of oils.

Someone can tell you where to get the pure stuff, which you should use
at least for the final wipe.

--
Ed Huntress

Many corrosion-preventive coatings and refinishing products can be recoated
without abrading/scuffing between applications if applied at specified
intervals.

Pressing sandpaper into a drying finish isn't the same as scuffing for
bonding/adhesion of additional applications.

You don't say what the specific requirements are, but I think you hinted at
outdoor equipment.

Almost any time one takes on projects requiring coatings for corrosion
resistance, they expose themselves to stuff they'd be better off avoiding..
dust, chemicals, fumes etc.
Proper surface preparation for most coatings is paramount, where minimal
effort generally results in wasted time and expense.

There are acids and treatment products which clean and/or etch metals more
effectively than sanding.
Pressing abrasive against metal isn't effective at breaking or removing
surface oxide or capable of much of anything in the way of surface prep.

You may benefit from reading some refinishing literature/guides provided by
paint/coatings manufacturers, which often include the reasons for various
steps involved in proper surface prep, and the features of specific products
they offer to meet the requirements of different conditions.

Have a look at POR products.
Also, there are additives for paint products to enhance adhesion when
applied over old or weathered finishes if they're fairly clean.

--
WB
..........


"Barry" wrote in message
...
I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust. I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:40:24 -0800 (PST), Barry
wrote:

I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust. I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

Um, if you're going to be that loose about it, why paint it?

If you still want to paint it, grab a spray can and go. Don't worry
about cleaning, drying, masking, or any of that bother. It's the Babin
Way!

--
Make awkward sexual advances, not war.

On Jan 15, 7:51*am, "Wild_Bill" wrote:

You don't say what the specific requirements are, but I think you hinted at
outdoor equipment.

Almost any time one takes on projects requiring coatings for corrosion
resistance, they expose themselves to stuff they'd be better off avoiding...

Indoor steel shelf. I think it looks like something for an office or
garage, but since I make them I may try selling them at craft shows. I
may eventually claim that no electricity was used in its construction
so it will appeal to environmentalist types, who would also care about
the coating toxicity.

I was thinking of using http://tinyurl.com/7ucys5h (MetalCoat) as a
primer and http://tinyurl.com/7nu34an (Mythic Classic) over it. The
primer instructions say:

"All surfaces must be clean,
dry, free from grease, dirt, rust, mill scale and any other
foreign matter. Surfaces must be very clean and
neutralized for this product to be effective. New
galvanized should be cleaned with an acetic acid or
phosphoric acid wash and rinsed. Rust and mill scale
must be removed with power steel brushing or
sandblasting. All other foreign matter must be cleaned
with a solvent wash and dried thoroughly before painting.
Dull glossy surfaces and remove dust."

It's so much easier to find galvanized sheet metal near me than plain
steel that I may use the acetic acid or phosphoric acid.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:40:24 -0800 (PST), Barry
wrote:

I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust. I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.
WHAT?????????

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 07:13:53 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:40:24 -0800 (PST), Barry
wrote:

I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust. I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

Interesting thought. You may be interested in a method used between
coats on boat enamel: After it's partially dried (hours or days,
depending on how "classic" the enamel is), painters will rub over the
first coat with a piece of burlap wrapped around a block of wood. It
flattens the pips and dust motes and leaves the surface ready for the
next coat. Timing is everything. I've never had burlap clean enough
for that, but it must be available. Maybe a fabric shop.

Dish soap is a bad idea unless you follow up with a solvent or strong
alkali detergent. Remember, they put stuff in dish soap to keep your
hands from drying out. Bad news for pre-painting.

As for solvents, if you really care about your job lasting, don't use
acetone you buy from a paint store or Home Depot. It's recycled from
industrial uses, and it's not completely free of oils.


I generally use "fast" thinners for the final wipedown. If it's good
enough to put IN the paint, it should be good enoughto clean for
paint.

On Jan 15, 4:41*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:40:24 -0800 (PST), Barry
wrote:

I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust. I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

WHAT?????????

Now I'm thinking about degreasing with diswasher detergent. I still
may try my sandpaper idea. I'm more worried about getting a smooth
coat with a brush than anything else. That's been a problem with my
last couple of projects.

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 14:12:38 -0800 (PST), Barry
wrote:

On Jan 15, 4:41Â*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:40:24 -0800 (PST), Barry
wrote:

I'm just throwing this out for comments. I'm thinking of putting a
sheet of fine sandpaper on my painted surface between coats and going
over it with a roller so I don't have to worry about cleaning up or
inhaling dust. I'm also thinking about degreasing plain steel with
dish soap and rolling the sandpaper over it even before the first
coat, though wet sanding is pretty dust free, so I may wet sand. Maybe
coarse sandpaper that I reposition a few times is better for this.

WHAT?????????

Now I'm thinking about degreasing with diswasher detergent. I still
may try my sandpaper idea. I'm more worried about getting a smooth
coat with a brush than anything else. That's been a problem with my
last couple of projects.
use the right brush, the right pait, thinned to the proper
consistency with the right thinner, and at the right temperature.