If you recall, I once bought, repaired and sold two Cummins L423D
engines from the military. Then I bought a generator, that I now use
for my house backup, also powered by a L423D.

Guess what, today I bought a known busted generator, also with a L423D
engine.

The head was taken off because there was "water in oil". Then it was
replaced, after running for 163 hours.

Then a lot of parts, I am sure, were lost while it was moved around by
ignorant people. But the generator still has a control panel, engine
block, injection pump, starter, etc.

My first question is what exactly does cause water in oil? Cracked
head?

thanks

"Ignoramus8679" wrote in message
...
If you recall, I once bought, repaired and sold two Cummins L423D
engines from the military. Then I bought a generator, that I now use
for my house backup, also powered by a L423D.

Guess what, today I bought a known busted generator, also with a L423D
engine.

The head was taken off because there was "water in oil". Then it was
replaced, after running for 163 hours.

Then a lot of parts, I am sure, were lost while it was moved around by
ignorant people. But the generator still has a control panel, engine
block, injection pump, starter, etc.

My first question is what exactly does cause water in oil? Cracked
head?

thanks


Cracked head or blown head gasket usually. Its possible to get it from a
cracked block, but not as likely.

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:09:55 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

If you recall, I once bought, repaired and sold two Cummins L423D
engines from the military. Then I bought a generator, that I now use
for my house backup, also powered by a L423D.

Guess what, today I bought a known busted generator, also with a L423D
engine.

The head was taken off because there was "water in oil". Then it was
replaced, after running for 163 hours.

Then a lot of parts, I am sure, were lost while it was moved around by
ignorant people. But the generator still has a control panel, engine
block, injection pump, starter, etc.

My first question is what exactly does cause water in oil? Cracked
head?

thanks

(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

That's all I can think of, for a diesel.

--
Ed Huntress

On 2012-01-07, Bob La Londe wrote:


"Ignoramus8679" wrote in message
...
If you recall, I once bought, repaired and sold two Cummins L423D
engines from the military. Then I bought a generator, that I now use
for my house backup, also powered by a L423D.

Guess what, today I bought a known busted generator, also with a L423D
engine.

The head was taken off because there was "water in oil". Then it was
replaced, after running for 163 hours.

Then a lot of parts, I am sure, were lost while it was moved around by
ignorant people. But the generator still has a control panel, engine
block, injection pump, starter, etc.

My first question is what exactly does cause water in oil? Cracked
head?

thanks


Cracked head or blown head gasket usually. Its possible to get it from a
cracked block, but not as likely.




That is what they told me, cracked head.

i

Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

i

I hope this water doesn't smell like diesel fuel, if the injector pump leaks
internally it will put diesel in the crankcase. Depending on oil and diesel
fuel grades it does not always mix well. Sometimes (not always) looks like
droplets of water on stick. But will still have strong smell of diesel.

By the way, do you have the bell housing size or measurement for these
engines?

I have a Generac generator that was destroyed by a tree hitting it a few
years back. The engine ran fine but the generator head was gone. Parts were
too costly and insurance replaced it. It is a mitsubishi 1.5L 4 cylinder
liquid cooled, I believe it to be a 4G15 industrial engine. I have tried to
find a welder or forklift or car that needs this engine but have not had any
luck. The difficulty is that it is set up for LP gas (can also do natural
gas) and has all manner of solid state controls that would have to be
removed and replaced by whatever this engine would be replacing. I will send
you a bellhousing chart off list for you to view. I am not sure but I think
mine might be a #4. If you are interested or have something that might work
for this engine give me a shout. I am in southern Indiana (close to
Louisville KY).
Thanks Lyndell


"Ignoramus8679" wrote in message
...
If you recall, I once bought, repaired and sold two Cummins L423D
engines from the military. Then I bought a generator, that I now use
for my house backup, also powered by a L423D.

Guess what, today I bought a known busted generator, also with a L423D
engine.

The head was taken off because there was "water in oil". Then it was
replaced, after running for 163 hours.

Then a lot of parts, I am sure, were lost while it was moved around by
ignorant people. But the generator still has a control panel, engine
block, injection pump, starter, etc.

My first question is what exactly does cause water in oil? Cracked
head?

thanks

On 2012-01-07, Lyndell Thompson wrote:
I hope this water doesn't smell like diesel fuel, if the injector pump leaks
internally it will put diesel in the crankcase. Depending on oil and diesel
fuel grades it does not always mix well. Sometimes (not always) looks like
droplets of water on stick. But will still have strong smell of diesel.

I have no idea what it smelled like.

The engine was removed and transported by VERY ignorant people, shall
I say without getting into details and being accused of improper
stereotyping.

By the way, do you have the bell housing size or measurement for these
engines?

I do not, but knowlig L423Ds, this is a standard SAE bell housing.

There is a 12 lead reconnectable generator head.

I have a Generac generator that was destroyed by a tree hitting it a few
years back. The engine ran fine but the generator head was gone. Parts were
too costly and insurance replaced it. It is a mitsubishi 1.5L 4 cylinder
liquid cooled, I believe it to be a 4G15 industrial engine. I have tried to
find a welder or forklift or car that needs this engine but have not had any
luck. The difficulty is that it is set up for LP gas (can also do natural
gas) and has all manner of solid state controls that would have to be
removed and replaced by whatever this engine would be replacing. I will send
you a bellhousing chart off list for you to view. I am not sure but I think
mine might be a #4. If you are interested or have something that might work
for this engine give me a shout. I am in southern Indiana (close to
Louisville KY).

Lyndell, this is about 30 kW 12 lead reconnectable head.

i

My generator is 15kw so this engine is half the size it would need to be. I
forgot your e-mail will not go thru. If you like send e-mail off list and I
will get it to you.
Lyndell


"Ignoramus8679" wrote in message
...
On 2012-01-07, Lyndell Thompson wrote:
I hope this water doesn't smell like diesel fuel, if the injector pump
leaks
internally it will put diesel in the crankcase. Depending on oil and
diesel
fuel grades it does not always mix well. Sometimes (not always) looks
like
droplets of water on stick. But will still have strong smell of diesel.

I have no idea what it smelled like.

The engine was removed and transported by VERY ignorant people, shall
I say without getting into details and being accused of improper
stereotyping.

By the way, do you have the bell housing size or measurement for these
engines?

I do not, but knowlig L423Ds, this is a standard SAE bell housing.

There is a 12 lead reconnectable generator head.

I have a Generac generator that was destroyed by a tree hitting it a few
years back. The engine ran fine but the generator head was gone. Parts
were
too costly and insurance replaced it. It is a mitsubishi 1.5L 4 cylinder
liquid cooled, I believe it to be a 4G15 industrial engine. I have tried
to
find a welder or forklift or car that needs this engine but have not had
any
luck. The difficulty is that it is set up for LP gas (can also do natural
gas) and has all manner of solid state controls that would have to be
removed and replaced by whatever this engine would be replacing. I will
send
you a bellhousing chart off list for you to view. I am not sure but I
think
mine might be a #4. If you are interested or have something that might
work
for this engine give me a shout. I am in southern Indiana (close to
Louisville KY).

Lyndell, this is about 30 kW 12 lead reconnectable head.

i

Iggy, here ya go!

http://www.surpluscenter.com/bellhousing.asp



"Lyndell Thompson" wrote in message
m...
My generator is 15kw so this engine is half the size it would need to be.
I forgot your e-mail will not go thru. If you like send e-mail off list
and I will get it to you.
Lyndell


"Ignoramus8679" wrote in message
...
On 2012-01-07, Lyndell Thompson wrote:
I hope this water doesn't smell like diesel fuel, if the injector pump
leaks
internally it will put diesel in the crankcase. Depending on oil and
diesel
fuel grades it does not always mix well. Sometimes (not always) looks
like
droplets of water on stick. But will still have strong smell of diesel.

I have no idea what it smelled like.

The engine was removed and transported by VERY ignorant people, shall
I say without getting into details and being accused of improper
stereotyping.

By the way, do you have the bell housing size or measurement for these
engines?

I do not, but knowlig L423Ds, this is a standard SAE bell housing.

There is a 12 lead reconnectable generator head.

I have a Generac generator that was destroyed by a tree hitting it a few
years back. The engine ran fine but the generator head was gone. Parts
were
too costly and insurance replaced it. It is a mitsubishi 1.5L 4 cylinder
liquid cooled, I believe it to be a 4G15 industrial engine. I have tried
to
find a welder or forklift or car that needs this engine but have not had
any
luck. The difficulty is that it is set up for LP gas (can also do
natural
gas) and has all manner of solid state controls that would have to be
removed and replaced by whatever this engine would be replacing. I will
send
you a bellhousing chart off list for you to view. I am not sure but I
think
mine might be a #4. If you are interested or have something that might
work
for this engine give me a shout. I am in southern Indiana (close to
Louisville KY).

Lyndell, this is about 30 kW 12 lead reconnectable head.

i

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:48:20 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

Crack(s), if any, will be on the piston side. In gasoline engines
they're typically tiny cracks between the valves. Cracks that lead to
a water jacket are less likely, but, in any case, you aren't likely to
detect them from outside of the engine.

Whether it's a cracked head or a blown gasket, you'll have to remove
the cylinder head either way. It can be very hard to tell the
difference even when you *do* look at it. Sometimes the cracks or
blown gasket close up when the engine is cold, and disappear under the
glurp of oil and water.

So you'd might as well get to it, and pull the head. Take it easy with
the gasket and keep it in one piece, if you can, so you can wiggle it
around and look for cracks.

If everything comes up empty, it's time for some dye penetrant on the
(clean) head face, and then the top of the engine block.

Good luck.

--
Ed Huntress

--
Ed Huntress

i

On 2012-01-07, Lyndell Thompson wrote:
My generator is 15kw so this engine is half the size it would need to be. I
forgot your e-mail will not go thru. If you like send e-mail off list and I
will get it to you.

ichudov AT gmail DOT com



"Ignoramus8679" wrote in message
...
On 2012-01-07, Lyndell Thompson wrote:
I hope this water doesn't smell like diesel fuel, if the injector pump
leaks
internally it will put diesel in the crankcase. Depending on oil and
diesel
fuel grades it does not always mix well. Sometimes (not always) looks
like
droplets of water on stick. But will still have strong smell of diesel.

I have no idea what it smelled like.

The engine was removed and transported by VERY ignorant people, shall
I say without getting into details and being accused of improper
stereotyping.

By the way, do you have the bell housing size or measurement for these
engines?

I do not, but knowlig L423Ds, this is a standard SAE bell housing.

There is a 12 lead reconnectable generator head.

I have a Generac generator that was destroyed by a tree hitting it a few
years back. The engine ran fine but the generator head was gone. Parts
were
too costly and insurance replaced it. It is a mitsubishi 1.5L 4 cylinder
liquid cooled, I believe it to be a 4G15 industrial engine. I have tried
to
find a welder or forklift or car that needs this engine but have not had
any
luck. The difficulty is that it is set up for LP gas (can also do natural
gas) and has all manner of solid state controls that would have to be
removed and replaced by whatever this engine would be replacing. I will
send
you a bellhousing chart off list for you to view. I am not sure but I
think
mine might be a #4. If you are interested or have something that might
work
for this engine give me a shout. I am in southern Indiana (close to
Louisville KY).

Lyndell, this is about 30 kW 12 lead reconnectable head.

i

On 2012-01-07, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:48:20 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

Crack(s), if any, will be on the piston side. In gasoline engines
they're typically tiny cracks between the valves. Cracks that lead to
a water jacket are less likely, but, in any case, you aren't likely to
detect them from outside of the engine.

Whether it's a cracked head or a blown gasket, you'll have to remove
the cylinder head either way. It can be very hard to tell the
difference even when you *do* look at it. Sometimes the cracks or
blown gasket close up when the engine is cold, and disappear under the
glurp of oil and water.

So you'd might as well get to it, and pull the head. Take it easy with
the gasket and keep it in one piece, if you can, so you can wiggle it
around and look for cracks.

If everything comes up empty, it's time for some dye penetrant on the
(clean) head face, and then the top of the engine block.

Good luck.



The head is already off, and lots of parts are messed up or lost. It
is a busted engine.

i

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:23:40 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:48:20 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

Crack(s), if any, will be on the piston side. In gasoline engines
they're typically tiny cracks between the valves. Cracks that lead to
a water jacket are less likely, but, in any case, you aren't likely to
detect them from outside of the engine.

Whether it's a cracked head or a blown gasket, you'll have to remove
the cylinder head either way. It can be very hard to tell the
difference even when you *do* look at it. Sometimes the cracks or
blown gasket close up when the engine is cold, and disappear under the
glurp of oil and water.

So you'd might as well get to it, and pull the head. Take it easy with
the gasket and keep it in one piece, if you can, so you can wiggle it
around and look for cracks.

If everything comes up empty, it's time for some dye penetrant on the
(clean) head face, and then the top of the engine block.

Good luck.



The head is already off, and lots of parts are messed up or lost. It
is a busted engine.

i

It sounds like scrap to me. It's too late to check the head gasket.

If you want to see if the head is Ok and maybe the engine is worth
salvaging (and if it were me), I'd take it to an automotive machine
shop and see if they can check it with dy penetrant. You may not get a
reliable reading if it's really cruddy, and they'll have to hot-tank
it first.

Neither process should cost much but I haven't had a head or block
hot-tanked for over 40 years, so I don't know. It probably is not
worth getting it Magnafluxed, but dye penetrant should show cracks in
a head if it isn't too loaded with oil and filth.

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:17:49 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:09:55 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

If you recall, I once bought, repaired and sold two Cummins L423D
engines from the military. Then I bought a generator, that I now use
for my house backup, also powered by a L423D.

Guess what, today I bought a known busted generator, also with a L423D
engine.

The head was taken off because there was "water in oil". Then it was
replaced, after running for 163 hours.

Then a lot of parts, I am sure, were lost while it was moved around by
ignorant people. But the generator still has a control panel, engine
block, injection pump, starter, etc.

My first question is what exactly does cause water in oil? Cracked
head?

thanks

(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

That's all I can think of, for a diesel.
Isn't that engine a wet sleeve engine????
Bad sleeve seals were pretty common once they got up in years.

Remeber the reply Posted by Steve Lusardi on December 23, 2010, ?
Back when you were buying your first one???????

On 2012-01-07, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:23:40 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:48:20 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

Crack(s), if any, will be on the piston side. In gasoline engines
they're typically tiny cracks between the valves. Cracks that lead to
a water jacket are less likely, but, in any case, you aren't likely to
detect them from outside of the engine.

Whether it's a cracked head or a blown gasket, you'll have to remove
the cylinder head either way. It can be very hard to tell the
difference even when you *do* look at it. Sometimes the cracks or
blown gasket close up when the engine is cold, and disappear under the
glurp of oil and water.

So you'd might as well get to it, and pull the head. Take it easy with
the gasket and keep it in one piece, if you can, so you can wiggle it
around and look for cracks.

If everything comes up empty, it's time for some dye penetrant on the
(clean) head face, and then the top of the engine block.

Good luck.



The head is already off, and lots of parts are messed up or lost. It
is a busted engine.

i

It sounds like scrap to me. It's too late to check the head gasket.

If you want to see if the head is Ok and maybe the engine is worth
salvaging (and if it were me), I'd take it to an automotive machine
shop and see if they can check it with dy penetrant. You may not get a
reliable reading if it's really cruddy, and they'll have to hot-tank
it first.

Neither process should cost much but I haven't had a head or block
hot-tanked for over 40 years, so I don't know. It probably is not
worth getting it Magnafluxed, but dye penetrant should show cracks in
a head if it isn't too loaded with oil and filth.


It is not scrap, it is a parts engine. There is only 163 hours on this
generator.

i

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 21:14:46 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:48:20 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

Crack(s), if any, will be on the piston side. In gasoline engines
they're typically tiny cracks between the valves. Cracks that lead to
a water jacket are less likely, but, in any case, you aren't likely to
detect them from outside of the engine.

Whether it's a cracked head or a blown gasket, you'll have to remove
the cylinder head either way. It can be very hard to tell the
difference even when you *do* look at it. Sometimes the cracks or
blown gasket close up when the engine is cold, and disappear under the
glurp of oil and water.

So you'd might as well get to it, and pull the head. Take it easy with
the gasket and keep it in one piece, if you can, so you can wiggle it
around and look for cracks.

If everything comes up empty, it's time for some dye penetrant on the
(clean) head face, and then the top of the engine block.

Good luck.

--
Ed Huntress
I BELIEVE that engine is a wet sleeve engine - and the MOST LIKELY
scenario involves a leak between the sleeve and the block.
Not rocket science to fix it, but fairly labour intensive from what I
remember. Hopefully not too much pitting involved - and hopefully the
sleaves are not rusted in solid.

Common occurrence in warm climates where engines were run without
antifreeze, and without rust inhibitor, or when antifreeze is not
maintained.

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:48:20 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

i
Likely cracked up in the valve/port area if it is actually cracked.

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 21:58:06 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 21:14:46 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:48:20 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

Crack(s), if any, will be on the piston side. In gasoline engines
they're typically tiny cracks between the valves. Cracks that lead to
a water jacket are less likely, but, in any case, you aren't likely to
detect them from outside of the engine.

Whether it's a cracked head or a blown gasket, you'll have to remove
the cylinder head either way. It can be very hard to tell the
difference even when you *do* look at it. Sometimes the cracks or
blown gasket close up when the engine is cold, and disappear under the
glurp of oil and water.

So you'd might as well get to it, and pull the head. Take it easy with
the gasket and keep it in one piece, if you can, so you can wiggle it
around and look for cracks.

If everything comes up empty, it's time for some dye penetrant on the
(clean) head face, and then the top of the engine block.

Good luck.

--
Ed Huntress
I BELIEVE that engine is a wet sleeve engine - and the MOST LIKELY
scenario involves a leak between the sleeve and the block.
Not rocket science to fix it, but fairly labour intensive from what I
remember. Hopefully not too much pitting involved - and hopefully the
sleaves are not rusted in solid.

Common occurrence in warm climates where engines were run without
antifreeze, and without rust inhibitor, or when antifreeze is not
maintained.

Aha. I don't know diesels, so I hesitate to get too specific, but I
would have asked if the head was badly pitted, too. It could have a
corrosion leak right across the head surface if it's corroded badly.

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:09:55 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

If you recall, I once bought, repaired and sold two Cummins L423D
engines from the military. Then I bought a generator, that I now use
for my house backup, also powered by a L423D.

Guess what, today I bought a known busted generator, also with a L423D
engine.

The head was taken off because there was "water in oil". Then it was
replaced, after running for 163 hours.

Then a lot of parts, I am sure, were lost while it was moved around by
ignorant people. But the generator still has a control panel, engine
block, injection pump, starter, etc.

My first question is what exactly does cause water in oil? Cracked
head?

Top 3: Cracked head, cracked block, blown head gasket (usually from
improper torquing of the head) not necessarily in that order.

Magnaflux the head, and if you don't find anything, magnaflux the top
portion of the cylinder sleeves, rotating the crank to get to them.
Apparently, the L423 uses a wet sleeve, with water behind them.
http://www.northern-lights.com/PDFs/..._pdfs/S100.pdf pg 43

If you don't find anything, pop a new gasket on and try her again, or
pull the whole block down and flux it. Perhaps check with a couple of
diesel mechanics to ask for any of their special tips and rebuild
prices.

I've seen auto engines broken by the mechanic when they replaced a
thermostat. The bolts were different lengths and one went through a
water jacket. It cost him a new intake manifold. My sister's mechanic
did that to her head on a VW station wagon. The exhaust bolts were
different lengths and he didn't pay enough attention when pulling
them. Rice burner engines sometimes have water tubes running inside
the heads. Many a Honda head has been replaced when they rusted out.

--
Worry is a misuse of imagination.
-- Dan Zadra

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:48:20 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

Did you use a microscope?

http://goo.gl/XSgq6

The type I've used was 2-part: Dye + Developer.
Spray the part, wipe off, spray the developer, and see the crack as
the color of the dye.

--
Worry is a misuse of imagination.
-- Dan Zadra

"Ignoramus8679" wrote in message
...
On 2012-01-07, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 20:23:40 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:48:20 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
(1) Blown head gasket

(2) Cracked head

(3) Cracked block

Right, with the head gasket being FAR more likely. Probably 90 - 9 -
1%. For gas engines, anyhow - maybe a cracked head is more likely in
a
diesel than gas.

Bob

I looked at the head briefly and I could not detect any cracks.

Crack(s), if any, will be on the piston side. In gasoline engines
they're typically tiny cracks between the valves. Cracks that lead to
a water jacket are less likely, but, in any case, you aren't likely to
detect them from outside of the engine.

Whether it's a cracked head or a blown gasket, you'll have to remove
the cylinder head either way. It can be very hard to tell the
difference even when you *do* look at it. Sometimes the cracks or
blown gasket close up when the engine is cold, and disappear under the
glurp of oil and water.

So you'd might as well get to it, and pull the head. Take it easy with
the gasket and keep it in one piece, if you can, so you can wiggle it
around and look for cracks.

If everything comes up empty, it's time for some dye penetrant on the
(clean) head face, and then the top of the engine block.

Good luck.



The head is already off, and lots of parts are messed up or lost. It
is a busted engine.

i

It sounds like scrap to me. It's too late to check the head gasket.

If you want to see if the head is Ok and maybe the engine is worth
salvaging (and if it were me), I'd take it to an automotive machine
shop and see if they can check it with dy penetrant. You may not get a
reliable reading if it's really cruddy, and they'll have to hot-tank
it first.

Neither process should cost much but I haven't had a head or block
hot-tanked for over 40 years, so I don't know. It probably is not
worth getting it Magnafluxed, but dye penetrant should show cracks in
a head if it isn't too loaded with oil and filth.


It is not scrap, it is a parts engine. There is only 163 hours on this
generator.


Turn the head upside down on a bench in a ventilated area and fill the
combustion domes with gasoline, if all of them are still full in a couple
of days then obviously the valves are good, and probably the heads aren't
cracked either.

On 2012-01-07, John B wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:34:39 -0600, Ignoramus8679
wrote:

On 2012-01-07, Bob La Londe wrote:


"Ignoramus8679" wrote in message
...
If you recall, I once bought, repaired and sold two Cummins L423D
engines from the military. Then I bought a generator, that I now use
for my house backup, also powered by a L423D.

Guess what, today I bought a known busted generator, also with a L423D
engine.

The head was taken off because there was "water in oil". Then it was
replaced, after running for 163 hours.

Then a lot of parts, I am sure, were lost while it was moved around by
ignorant people. But the generator still has a control panel, engine
block, injection pump, starter, etc.

My first question is what exactly does cause water in oil? Cracked
head?

thanks


Cracked head or blown head gasket usually. Its possible to get it from a
cracked block, but not as likely.




That is what they told me, cracked head.

i
If the engine has an oil cooler, and most diesels do, then check that
for leaks between the oil and water side.


I do not think that that engine has an oil cooler, no.

i