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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Water heater installation
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Engineman |
#2
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Water heater installation
"engineman" wrote in message ... I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Sussest use the braided instead. Cheaper and less corrosion potential |
#3
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Water heater installation
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"engineman" wrote in message ... I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Sussest use the braided instead. Cheaper and less corrosion potential Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well , though not in a tight radius unless it's supported while bending . Sand works well for that ... Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines , because of the increased BTU/hr requirements . -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
#4
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Water heater installation
engineman wrote:
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking water during an emergency that cuts off your source. 'Just sayin. --Winston |
#5
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Water heater installation
"Snag" wrote in message ... PrecisionmachinisT wrote: "engineman" wrote in message ... I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Sussest use the braided instead. Cheaper and less corrosion potential Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well , though not in a tight radius unless it's supported while bending . Sand works well for that ... Have you priced copper lately ? Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines , because of the increased BTU/hr requirements . |
#6
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Water heater installation
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message ... PrecisionmachinisT wrote: "engineman" wrote in message ... I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Sussest use the braided instead. Cheaper and less corrosion potential Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well , though not in a tight radius unless it's supported while bending . Sand works well for that ... Have you priced copper lately ? Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines , because of the increased BTU/hr requirements . If he's gonna pop for a tankless , which also ain't cheap , he might as well pop for the materials to do it right . JMNSHO ... -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
#7
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Water heater installation
Snag wrote:
PrecisionmachinisT wrote: "engineman" wrote in message ... I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Sussest use the braided instead. Cheaper and less corrosion potential Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well , though not in a tight radius unless it's supported while bending . Sand works well for that ... Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines , because of the increased BTU/hr requirements . Ditto, except I've have used pipe, and about a half-dozen solder joints - will PEX stand the heat? Also, be sure to wrap some insulation around the hot side tube/pipe. Cheers! Rich |
#8
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Water heater installation
In article
, engineman wrote: I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Engineman Recently I was also considering a tankless water heater... and as I had zero experience and knowledge of them, solicited thoughts and comments from the group. The general consensus was to not walk, but RUN from them, just as fast and far as you can... lots of real world trouble, maintenance and expense... A word to the wise is sufficient, and I followed that advise... and am pleased to to announce that everything is once again 'ponies and rainbows' here. May I suggest you also do your homework before considering such a heater... it was very eye opening. Good Luck! Erik |
#9
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Water heater installation
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, Winston
wrote: engineman wrote: I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking water during an emergency that cuts off your source. Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie? -- I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington |
#10
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Water heater installation
"Snag" wrote in message ... PrecisionmachinisT wrote: "Snag" wrote in message ... PrecisionmachinisT wrote: "engineman" wrote in message ... I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Sussest use the braided instead. Cheaper and less corrosion potential Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well , though not in a tight radius unless it's supported while bending . Sand works well for that ... Have you priced copper lately ? Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines , because of the increased BTU/hr requirements . If he's gonna pop for a tankless , which also ain't cheap , he might as well pop for the materials to do it right . JMNSHO ... Nothing special about copper that would make it the "right' choice unless perhaps the rest of of the house is already plumbed with it. No matter though--looks like he won't be reading this anyways since google groups is apparently broken. |
#11
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Water heater installation
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, wrote: (...) A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking water during an emergency that cuts off your source. Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie? Um. Make that 'A conventional water heater'... Heh. --Winston |
#12
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Water heater installation
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 16:05:27 -0700, Erik wrote:
In article , engineman wrote: I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Engineman Recently I was also considering a tankless water heater... and as I had zero experience and knowledge of them, solicited thoughts and comments from the group. The general consensus was to not walk, but RUN from them, just as fast and far as you can... lots of real world trouble, maintenance and expense... A word to the wise is sufficient, and I followed that advise... and am pleased to to announce that everything is once again 'ponies and rainbows' here. May I suggest you also do your homework before considering such a heater... it was very eye opening. Good Luck! Erik Like Erik, I looked into a tank less gas fired water hater and found that the installed price would be ~$4500.00 as opposed to $1275 for a 40 gallon tank unit including installation of a SS flue liner. Further, I had experience in April while visiting senior son in Spain, his tank less butane fired unit sucked big time in that a shower involved having someone watch the pilot light and relight it every time it went out. I suspect that was a problem unique to the particular unit rather than being a general fault but it sure made a shower into an event to be endured. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#13
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Water heater installation
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 17:37:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, Winston wrote: engineman wrote: I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking water during an emergency that cuts off your source. Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie? It cools down nicely...and if the power/gas is out..it gets cool fairly quickly. Having 35 or so gallons of fresh water on hand when the water is out..is real handy. Gunner -- "The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency. It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have such a man for their? president.. Blaming the prince of the fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of fools that made him their prince". |
#14
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Water heater installation
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 20:53:04 -0700, Winston
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, wrote: (...) A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking water during an emergency that cuts off your source. Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie? Um. Make that 'A conventional water heater'... Heh. Tendjewberrymud. -- I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington |
#15
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Water heater installation
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 20:53:04 -0700, Winston
wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, wrote: (...) A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking water during an emergency that cuts off your source. Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie? To make it hotter? Um. Make that 'A conventional water heater'... Heh. --Winston |
#16
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Water heater installation
I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington "Just because you got then blues doesn't mean you got to sing" Savoy Brown |
#17
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Water heater installation
Gerald Miller wrote:
Like Erik, I looked into a tank less gas fired water hater and found that the installed price would be ~$4500.00 as opposed to $1275 for a 40 gallon tank unit including installation of a SS flue liner. Further, I had experience in April while visiting senior son in Spain, his tank less butane fired unit sucked big time in that a shower involved having someone watch the pilot light and relight it every time it went out. I suspect that was a problem unique to the particular unit rather than being a general fault but it sure made a shower into an event to be endured. FWIW, when I was in Thailand in the USAF, mid-1970s-ish, I rented an off-base bungalow, and it had an American-style toilet and shower, with a "tankless" water heater. The only servicing it needed was an occasional propane tank, which was indistinguishable from an American propane tank, and it gave instant hot water, albeit you don't need terribly hot water for a shower when ambient is 95F. ;-) Cheers! Rich |
#18
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Water heater installation
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 17:37:26 -0700, Larry Jaques On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, Winston A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking water during an emergency that cuts off your source. Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie? It cools down nicely...and if the power/gas is out..it gets cool fairly quickly. Gunner, don't be a dork. Larry's question was a joke on the expression "hot water heater." Hope This Helps! Rich |
#19
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Water heater installation
On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 16:05:13 -0700, Rich Grise
wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 17:37:26 -0700, Larry Jaques On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, Winston A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking water during an emergency that cuts off your source. Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie? It cools down nicely...and if the power/gas is out..it gets cool fairly quickly. Gunner, don't be a dork. Larry's question was a joke on the expression "hot water heater." Hope This Helps! Rich Blush..I caught it after I sent it. I was up till 4am..and woke up later this morning and was a bit...off. Sorry Gunner -- "The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency. It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have such a man for their? president.. Blaming the prince of the fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of fools that made him their prince". |
#20
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Water heater installation
On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 13:34:41 -0700 (PDT), engineman
wrote: I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Engineman I just replaced my gas water heater after 23 years. Tankless too exspensive. Went with another tank style. Tankless also have a limited temp rise, so if you got real cold water goingin you might only get warm coming out. All depends on input water temp and flow rate. IE how many people are using hot water at the same time. Copper to steel is not that bad in my experiance. Just as long as there is no aluminum in there anywhere. My old and new tank style heaters have galv. steel nipples pre installed that connect to copper pipes. They have plastic liners in them and I guess that makes them "dielectirc" Remove 333 to reply. Randy |
#21
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Water heater installation
On Aug 10, 7:36*am, Randy333 wrote:
On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 13:34:41 -0700 (PDT), engineman wrote: I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in the gas valve. I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a tankless. One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath. To make installation easier I'm thinking of using *flexible corrugated *copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines. I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow too much? Engineman I just replaced my gas water heater after 23 years. * Tankless too exspensive. * Went with another tank style. * Tankless also have a limited temp rise, so if you got real cold water goingin you might only get warm coming out. *All depends on input water temp and flow rate. *IE how many people are using hot water at the same time. Copper to steel is not that bad in my experiance. * Just as long as there is no aluminum in there anywhere. *My old and new tank style heaters have galv. steel nipples pre installed that connect to copper pipes. *They have plastic liners in them and I guess that makes them "dielectirc" Remove 333 to reply. Randy The corrosion you'd get all depends on what the water itself has dissolved in it and what stray currents you have running through the piping. Last water heater I replaced, the new one had dielectric couplings built in, was a Sears. Rigid copper runs from tank to iron in the wall. The thing with Sears is you can usually get parts, that gas valve SHOULD be replaceable, I can remember replacing my dad's whole heater when I was a kid, ran about $79, this one was $379. This was slightly fancier than that one, has a pushbutton piezo ignitor, but basically the same type of unit. The one he replaced that old one with was one of those condensing units with fans and a digital controller, no chimney needed, just a small hose for a vent. Ran several grand installed, wasn't significantly better at heating water than the oldtimer, lots more noisy and took a lot longer firing up due to all the fans having to run in sequence before lighting off. You can run a pilot light for years on the cost difference. Stan |
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