Water heater installation
 

I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?

Engineman

Water heater installation
 

"engineman" wrote in message
...
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?


Sussest use the braided instead.

Cheaper and less corrosion potential

Water heater installation
 

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"engineman" wrote in message
...
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?


Sussest use the braided instead.

Cheaper and less corrosion potential

Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well , though not in
a tight radius unless it's supported while bending . Sand works well for
that ...
Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines , because of
the increased BTU/hr requirements .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Water heater installation
 

engineman wrote:
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?

A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking
water during an emergency that cuts off your source.

'Just sayin.

--Winston

Water heater installation
 

"Snag" wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"engineman" wrote in message
...
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?


Sussest use the braided instead.

Cheaper and less corrosion potential

Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well , though not
in a tight radius unless it's supported while bending . Sand works well
for that ...

Have you priced copper lately ?

Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines , because of
the increased BTU/hr requirements .

Water heater installation
 

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"engineman" wrote in message
...
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak
in the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?


Sussest use the braided instead.

Cheaper and less corrosion potential

Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well ,
though not in a tight radius unless it's supported while bending .
Sand works well for that ...

Have you priced copper lately ?

Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines ,
because of the increased BTU/hr requirements .

If he's gonna pop for a tankless , which also ain't cheap , he might as well
pop for the materials to do it right . JMNSHO ...

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Water heater installation
 

Snag wrote:
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"engineman" wrote in message
...
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?


Sussest use the braided instead.

Cheaper and less corrosion potential

Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well , though not
in a tight radius unless it's supported while bending . Sand works well
for that ...
Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines , because of
the increased BTU/hr requirements .

Ditto, except I've have used pipe, and about a half-dozen solder joints -
will PEX stand the heat?

Also, be sure to wrap some insulation around the hot side tube/pipe.

Cheers!
Rich

Water heater installation
 

In article
,
engineman wrote:

I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?

Engineman

Recently I was also considering a tankless water heater... and as I had
zero experience and knowledge of them, solicited thoughts and comments
from the group.

The general consensus was to not walk, but RUN from them, just as fast
and far as you can... lots of real world trouble, maintenance and
expense...

A word to the wise is sufficient, and I followed that advise... and am
pleased to to announce that everything is once again 'ponies and
rainbows' here.

May I suggest you also do your homework before considering such a
heater... it was very eye opening.

Good Luck!

Erik

Water heater installation
 

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, Winston
wrote:

engineman wrote:
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?

A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking
water during an emergency that cuts off your source.

Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie?

--
I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues.
--Duke Ellington

Water heater installation
 

"Snag" wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message
...
PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
"engineman" wrote in message
...
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak
in the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?


Sussest use the braided instead.

Cheaper and less corrosion potential

Why not just use regular soft copper tubing ?? It bends well ,
though not in a tight radius unless it's supported while bending .
Sand works well for that ...

Have you priced copper lately ?

Be aware that tankless needs bigger than standard gas lines ,
because of the increased BTU/hr requirements .

If he's gonna pop for a tankless , which also ain't cheap , he might as
well pop for the materials to do it right . JMNSHO ...


Nothing special about copper that would make it the "right' choice unless
perhaps the rest of of the house is already plumbed with it.

No matter though--looks like he won't be reading this anyways since google
groups is apparently broken.

Water heater installation
 

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking
water during an emergency that cuts off your source.

Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie?

Um. Make that 'A conventional water heater'...

Heh.

--Winston

Water heater installation
 

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 16:05:27 -0700, Erik wrote:

In article
,
engineman wrote:

I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?

Engineman

Recently I was also considering a tankless water heater... and as I had
zero experience and knowledge of them, solicited thoughts and comments
from the group.

The general consensus was to not walk, but RUN from them, just as fast
and far as you can... lots of real world trouble, maintenance and
expense...

A word to the wise is sufficient, and I followed that advise... and am
pleased to to announce that everything is once again 'ponies and
rainbows' here.

May I suggest you also do your homework before considering such a
heater... it was very eye opening.

Good Luck!

Erik
Like Erik, I looked into a tank less gas fired water hater and found
that the installed price would be ~$4500.00 as opposed to $1275 for a
40 gallon tank unit including installation of a SS flue liner.
Further, I had experience in April while visiting senior son in Spain,
his tank less butane fired unit sucked big time in that a shower
involved having someone watch the pilot light and relight it every
time it went out. I suspect that was a problem unique to the
particular unit rather than being a general fault but it sure made a
shower into an event to be endured.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Water heater installation
 

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 17:37:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, Winston
wrote:

engineman wrote:
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?

A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking
water during an emergency that cuts off your source.

Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie?

It cools down nicely...and if the power/gas is out..it gets cool fairly
quickly.

Having 35 or so gallons of fresh water on hand when the water is out..is
real handy.

Gunner

--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an
Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense
and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have
such a man for their? president.. Blaming the prince of the
fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of
fools that made him their prince".

Water heater installation
 

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 20:53:04 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking
water during an emergency that cuts off your source.

Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie?

Um. Make that 'A conventional water heater'...

Heh.

Tendjewberrymud.

--
I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues.
--Duke Ellington

Water heater installation
 

On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 20:53:04 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking
water during an emergency that cuts off your source.

Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie?

To make it hotter?


Um. Make that 'A conventional water heater'...

Heh.

--Winston

Water heater installation
 

I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues.
--Duke Ellington

"Just because you got then blues doesn't mean you got to sing"
Savoy Brown

Water heater installation
 

Gerald Miller wrote:

Like Erik, I looked into a tank less gas fired water hater and found
that the installed price would be ~$4500.00 as opposed to $1275 for a
40 gallon tank unit including installation of a SS flue liner.
Further, I had experience in April while visiting senior son in Spain,
his tank less butane fired unit sucked big time in that a shower
involved having someone watch the pilot light and relight it every
time it went out. I suspect that was a problem unique to the
particular unit rather than being a general fault but it sure made a
shower into an event to be endured.

FWIW, when I was in Thailand in the USAF, mid-1970s-ish, I rented an
off-base bungalow, and it had an American-style toilet and shower,
with a "tankless" water heater. The only servicing it needed was an
occasional propane tank, which was indistinguishable from an American
propane tank, and it gave instant hot water, albeit you don't need
terribly hot water for a shower when ambient is 95F. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

Water heater installation
 

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 17:37:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, Winston

A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking
water during an emergency that cuts off your source.

Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie?

It cools down nicely...and if the power/gas is out..it gets cool fairly
quickly.

Gunner, don't be a dork. Larry's question was a joke on the expression
"hot water heater."

Hope This Helps!
Rich

Water heater installation
 

On Tue, 09 Aug 2011 16:05:13 -0700, Rich Grise
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 17:37:26 -0700, Larry Jaques
On Mon, 08 Aug 2011 14:36:11 -0700, Winston

A conventional hot water heater is a source of drinking
water during an emergency that cuts off your source.

Why would you want to heat hot water, Winnie?

It cools down nicely...and if the power/gas is out..it gets cool fairly
quickly.

Gunner, don't be a dork. Larry's question was a joke on the expression
"hot water heater."

Hope This Helps!
Rich

Blush..I caught it after I sent it. I was up till 4am..and woke up
later this morning and was a bit...off.

Sorry

Gunner

--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an
Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense
and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have
such a man for their? president.. Blaming the prince of the
fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of
fools that made him their prince".

Water heater installation
 

On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 13:34:41 -0700 (PDT), engineman
wrote:

I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using flexible
corrugated copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?

Engineman

I just replaced my gas water heater after 23 years. Tankless too
exspensive. Went with another tank style. Tankless also have a
limited temp rise, so if you got real cold water goingin you might
only get warm coming out. All depends on input water temp and flow
rate. IE how many people are using hot water at the same time.

Copper to steel is not that bad in my experiance. Just as long as
there is no aluminum in there anywhere. My old and new tank style
heaters have galv. steel nipples pre installed that connect to copper
pipes. They have plastic liners in them and I guess that makes them
"dielectirc"

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

Water heater installation
 

On Aug 10, 7:36*am, Randy333 wrote:
On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 13:34:41 -0700 (PDT), engineman

wrote:
I have to replace my water heater because of an unrepairable leak in
the gas valve.
I have a tank-type heater and am thinking of replacing it with a
tankless.
One problem is that my present heater has it's water connections at
the top and the tankless at the bottom underneath.
To make installation easier I'm thinking of using *flexible
corrugated *copper tubing similar to what is used for gas lines.
I'm wondering if I will run into any problems with this, such as
galvanic action, also will the corrugations restrict the water flow
too much?

Engineman

I just replaced my gas water heater after 23 years. * Tankless too
exspensive. * Went with another tank style. * Tankless also have a
limited temp rise, so if you got real cold water goingin you might
only get warm coming out. *All depends on input water temp and flow
rate. *IE how many people are using hot water at the same time.

Copper to steel is not that bad in my experiance. * Just as long as
there is no aluminum in there anywhere. *My old and new tank style
heaters have galv. steel nipples pre installed that connect to copper
pipes. *They have plastic liners in them and I guess that makes them
"dielectirc"

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

The corrosion you'd get all depends on what the water itself has
dissolved in it and what stray currents you have running through the
piping. Last water heater I replaced, the new one had dielectric
couplings built in, was a Sears. Rigid copper runs from tank to iron
in the wall.

The thing with Sears is you can usually get parts, that gas valve
SHOULD be replaceable, I can remember replacing my dad's whole heater
when I was a kid, ran about $79, this one was $379. This was slightly
fancier than that one, has a pushbutton piezo ignitor, but basically
the same type of unit.

The one he replaced that old one with was one of those condensing
units with fans and a digital controller, no chimney needed, just a
small hose for a vent. Ran several grand installed, wasn't
significantly better at heating water than the oldtimer, lots more
noisy and took a lot longer firing up due to all the fans having to
run in sequence before lighting off. You can run a pilot light for
years on the cost difference.

Stan