Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Learned something about collets...
All my cheap collet are tight on the work peice and you need to force
the part in. This scratchs TGP shafting. It would seem better collets are sprung apart after grinding to size to allow an on size part to slide in freely.. see... http://www.royalprod.com/product.cfm?catID=6&id=85 The Tuff-Pro 5C and R8 collets we offer are hardened, ground, and guaranteed accurate to 0.0005" TIR. However, they are manufactured in China, they are not spread after grinding, and their aesthetic appearance is not quite good enough for them to carry the Royal name. Randy... slowly upgrading my TTC (Traver tool co.) collets I' ve had for over 25 years to Lyndex or Royal. Bad thing about Lyndex collets are they are marked with size but not brand name. Hard to tell them apart from the cheap crap. Remove 333 to reply. Randy |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Learned something about collets...
On 6/22/2011 5:24 AM, Randy333 wrote:
slowly upgrading my TTC (Traver tool co.) collets I've had for over 25 years to Lyndex or Royal. Might consider shopping used Hardinge collets on ebay. I've been building my collection over several years, some of the larger /64 sizes being somewhat uncommon. Be aware though, there are Hardinge collets without internal threads. Jon |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Learned something about collets...
Randy333 wrote:
All my cheap collet are tight on the work peice and you need to force the part in. This scratchs TGP shafting. It would seem better collets are sprung apart after grinding to size to allow an on size part to slide in freely.. Really? Usually when I find a sprung collet some idiot stuffed something in it that didn't belong. Likely you are talking about 5C where my Lyndex collets are snug on a on sided work piece. On R8, a sprung collet is a bitch, if you use the brake to loosen the drawbar, the tool will fall out quite often. That is why I tend to put the mill in back gear at work and hold on to the tool as I loosen the drawbar. Clutch -- "Gun control is like trying to reduce drunk driving by making it tougher for sober people to own cars" - Ambaltrip |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Learned something about collets...
On Wed, 22 Jun 2011 17:29:46 -0400, Wes
wrote: Randy333 wrote: All my cheap collet are tight on the work peice and you need to force the part in. This scratchs TGP shafting. It would seem better collets are sprung apart after grinding to size to allow an on size part to slide in freely.. Really? Usually when I find a sprung collet some idiot stuffed something in it that didn't belong. Likely you are talking about 5C where my Lyndex collets are snug on a on sided work piece. On R8, a sprung collet is a bitch, if you use the brake to loosen the drawbar, the tool will fall out quite often. That is why I tend to put the mill in back gear at work and hold on to the tool as I loosen the drawbar. I was talking 5C. don't use R8. my mill is NMTB 30 and my VMC is CAT40. Remove 333 to reply. Randy |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
What I learned today | Home Repair | |||
Learned something new today | Woodworking | |||
Lesson learned | Woodworking | |||
Today I learned ... | UK diy | |||
Learned something... | Woodworking |