Learned something about collets...
 

All my cheap collet are tight on the work peice and you need to force
the part in. This scratchs TGP shafting. It would seem better
collets are sprung apart after grinding to size to allow an on size
part to slide in freely..

see... http://www.royalprod.com/product.cfm?catID=6&id=85


The Tuff-Pro 5C and R8 collets we offer are hardened, ground, and
guaranteed accurate to 0.0005" TIR. However, they are manufactured in
China, they are not spread after grinding, and their aesthetic
appearance is not quite good enough for them to carry the Royal name.

Randy...
slowly upgrading my TTC (Traver tool co.) collets I'
ve had for over 25 years to Lyndex or Royal.

Bad thing about Lyndex collets are they are marked with size but not
brand name. Hard to tell them apart from the cheap crap.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

Learned something about collets...
 

On 6/22/2011 5:24 AM, Randy333 wrote:

slowly upgrading my TTC (Traver tool co.) collets I've had for over 25 years to Lyndex or Royal.

Might consider shopping used Hardinge collets on ebay. I've been
building my collection over several years, some of the larger /64 sizes
being somewhat uncommon. Be aware though, there are Hardinge collets
without internal threads.


Jon

Learned something about collets...
 

Randy333 wrote:

All my cheap collet are tight on the work peice and you need to force
the part in. This scratchs TGP shafting. It would seem better
collets are sprung apart after grinding to size to allow an on size
part to slide in freely..

Really? Usually when I find a sprung collet some idiot stuffed something in it that
didn't belong. Likely you are talking about 5C where my Lyndex collets are snug on a on
sided work piece.

On R8, a sprung collet is a bitch, if you use the brake to loosen the drawbar, the tool
will fall out quite often. That is why I tend to put the mill in back gear at work and
hold on to the tool as I loosen the drawbar.

Clutch
--
"Gun control is like trying to reduce drunk driving by making it tougher for sober
people to own cars" - Ambaltrip

Learned something about collets...
 

On Wed, 22 Jun 2011 17:29:46 -0400, Wes
wrote:

Randy333 wrote:

All my cheap collet are tight on the work peice and you need to force
the part in. This scratchs TGP shafting. It would seem better
collets are sprung apart after grinding to size to allow an on size
part to slide in freely..

Really? Usually when I find a sprung collet some idiot stuffed something in it that
didn't belong. Likely you are talking about 5C where my Lyndex collets are snug on a on
sided work piece.

On R8, a sprung collet is a bitch, if you use the brake to loosen the drawbar, the tool
will fall out quite often. That is why I tend to put the mill in back gear at work and
hold on to the tool as I loosen the drawbar.


I was talking 5C. don't use R8. my mill is NMTB 30 and my VMC is
CAT40.

Remove 333 to reply.
Randy