Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default chain saw sharpener

Karl Townsend wrote:
... Get yourself a dremmel or die
grinder and the right diameter stone. ...


I have diamond bits for my "Dremel", but I still take to a professional*
for sharpening. But, I use the saw so little that it's not worth trying
to save the time & cost. Especially since he does such a good job -
much better than I can do.

* - NOT the hardware store with some monkey running the grinder!

Bob
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ATP ATP is offline
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Default chain saw sharpener

Chains should be sharpened every time you use them. Taking them to a pro
after several sharpenings might make sense. The right size round file will
get it done in about five minutes.
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
Karl Townsend wrote:
... Get yourself a dremmel or die
grinder and the right diameter stone. ...


I have diamond bits for my "Dremel", but I still take to a professional*
for sharpening. But, I use the saw so little that it's not worth trying
to save the time & cost. Especially since he does such a good job - much
better than I can do.

* - NOT the hardware store with some monkey running the grinder!

Bob



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Default chain saw sharpener


"ATP" wrote in message
...
Chains should be sharpened every time you use them.


Debatable.

Taking them to a pro after several sharpenings might make sense.


Or use some sort of a jig so as to correct any cumulative filing errors.

The right size round file will get it done in about five minutes.


Rocks and dirt are basically an instant death sentence--avoid like the
Plague and you'll likely get at least a couple hours worth of productive
cutting time between touch-ups.



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Default chain saw sharpener

On May 14, 2:33*pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:
"ATP" wrote in message

...

Chains should be sharpened every time you use them.


Debatable.

Taking them to a pro after several sharpenings might make sense.


Or use some sort of a jig so as to correct any cumulative filing errors.

The right size round file will get it done in about five minutes.


Rocks and dirt are basically an instant death sentence--avoid like the
Plague and you'll likely get at least a couple hours worth of productive
cutting time between touch-ups.


Here's the jig:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...8557_200308557
Oregon has something similar, patents have long run out.

My dad got one very similar only with "Sears Craftsman" cast in, used
it for 30 years. Sharpening can be done on a stump out in the field,
no juice needed. Takes more than 5 minutes, though, to get both
directions on the teeth and get the depth gauges. Just depends on the
length of the bar.

Worst thing to hit other than nails and barbed wire is a ceramic
electric fence insulator, a lot of farmers just nailed them to trees
along the properly line and they got embedded. 30-40 years later,
they're in there but unseen and not detectable. New chain time after
hitting one.

Stan
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Default chain saw sharpener

wrote:
On May 14, 2:33 pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:
"ATP" wrote in message

...

Chains should be sharpened every time you use them.

Debatable.

Taking them to a pro after several sharpenings might make sense.

Or use some sort of a jig so as to correct any cumulative filing errors.

The right size round file will get it done in about five minutes.

Rocks and dirt are basically an instant death sentence--avoid like the
Plague and you'll likely get at least a couple hours worth of productive
cutting time between touch-ups.


Here's the jig:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...8557_200308557
Oregon has something similar, patents have long run out.

My dad got one very similar only with "Sears Craftsman" cast in, used
it for 30 years. Sharpening can be done on a stump out in the field,
no juice needed. Takes more than 5 minutes, though, to get both
directions on the teeth and get the depth gauges. Just depends on the
length of the bar.

Worst thing to hit other than nails and barbed wire is a ceramic
electric fence insulator, a lot of farmers just nailed them to trees
along the properly line and they got embedded. 30-40 years later,
they're in there but unseen and not detectable. New chain time after
hitting one.

Stan


Yep, Have a Zip Penn version from the 70's myself.

--
Steve W.


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Default chain saw sharpener


wrote in message
...
On May 14, 2:33 pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:
"ATP" wrote in message

...

Chains should be sharpened every time you use them.


Debatable.

Taking them to a pro after several sharpenings might make sense.


Or use some sort of a jig so as to correct any cumulative filing errors.

The right size round file will get it done in about five minutes.


Rocks and dirt are basically an instant death sentence--avoid like the
Plague and you'll likely get at least a couple hours worth of productive
cutting time between touch-ups.


Here's the jig:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...8557_200308557
Oregon has something similar, patents have long run out.


Yup that's the one.

I can usually easily get 5 or so touch-up filings off-hand but for some
reason I've always tended to file one side just a tad bit off-angle and so
every now and then need to use the jig get things back in the zone.

--


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