What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

I've heard of "White Out" correction fluid being used for that.
Haven't tried it though.

On Mar 13, 7:00*pm, Winston wrote:
Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

I haven't tried this yet, but I hear tell that after
cleaning the heck out of pipe and fitting, one fluxes
both and assembles them, just like always.

Here's the kicker. **With a pure acetylene flame* you
coat the exterior of the joint with carbon black,
turn the oxygen back on and heat as per usual.

Apply solder to the seam and the carbon black will
prevent wetting to undesirable areas.

Clean up and the joint will have that pro look.

--Winston

On Mar 13, 5:48*pm, Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=solder%20mask

or, you can use ordinary paper masking tape, but you'll have to clean
off the burnt mess afterwards.

Cydrome Leader wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Sun, 13 Mar 2011 21:48:15 +0000 (UTC):

What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

It's called solder mask. You can get it in tape form from granger.

--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

I haven't tried this yet, but I hear tell that after
cleaning the heck out of pipe and fitting, one fluxes
both and assembles them, just like always.

Here's the kicker. *With a pure acetylene flame* you
coat the exterior of the joint with carbon black,
turn the oxygen back on and heat as per usual.

Apply solder to the seam and the carbon black will
prevent wetting to undesirable areas.

Clean up and the joint will have that pro look.

--Winston

Charles Lessig wrote:
I've heard of "White Out" correction fluid being used for that.
Haven't tried it though.

Hmmm, I dunno about that.

"Titanium dioxide dust, when inhaled, has recently been classified
by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as an
IARC Group 2B carcinogen possibly carcinogenic to humans."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titanium_dioxide

--Winston

On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 16:39:10 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Charles Lessig wrote:
I've heard of "White Out" correction fluid being used for that.
Haven't tried it though.

Hmmm, I dunno about that.

"Titanium dioxide dust, when inhaled, has recently been classified
by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as an
IARC Group 2B carcinogen possibly carcinogenic to humans."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titanium_dioxide

ALL DUST, organic and inorganic, is deadly to human lung tissue.
But we knew that. What's the beef? Is some gov't agency trying to
prove itself useful, current, and viable? Again?

--
You create your opportunities by asking for them.
-- Patty Hansen

Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

I heard that scribbling a lot of soft graphite pencil on the surface
works. I tried it once, and it did appear to have that effect, but I
haven't tried it extensively.

Chris

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

ALL DUST, organic and inorganic, is deadly to human lung tissue.

Perhaps 'deadly' is too strong a word? I've cleaned up some
*extremely* dusty places without protection and suffered coughing,
wheezing and other entertaining sound effects and I'm still kicking.

If I had it to do over, I would have donned a respirator but
I'm older and more cowardly now.

Lesson learned. Catastrophe luckily avoided.

--Winston

For many years men dressed solder irons and once true, use the rubber
on their shoe (inside of the heal) to coat all the tip except the
wetting location.

I've also used rubber erasers that I heat up with a heat gun and then
wipe over areas.

Modern workers don't need to worry - the joint is small. But they make
resists that you can paint on. Just like solder resist used on printed
circuit boards.

I'd think on some items it might be best to use High temperature (glass)
tape. Woven glass. or Fiber glass with glue on the back.

I think you can buy resist at local Radio Shack stores.

Martin

On 3/13/2011 4:48 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

Right - if you can't absorb and melt it away it is bad.

Currently a turkey is trying to ban LED lighting because
he believes there is arsenic in the LED.

Millions of times as much in a peach pit. But never mind a non-thinker
on a mission to screw up the US.

Martin

On 3/13/2011 7:54 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 16:39:10 -0700,
wrote:

Charles Lessig wrote:
I've heard of "White Out" correction fluid being used for that.
Haven't tried it though.

Hmmm, I dunno about that.

"Titanium dioxide dust, when inhaled, has recently been classified
by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as an
IARC Group 2B carcinogen possibly carcinogenic to humans."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titanium_dioxide

ALL DUST, organic and inorganic, is deadly to human lung tissue.
But we knew that. What's the beef? Is some gov't agency trying to
prove itself useful, current, and viable? Again?

--
You create your opportunities by asking for them.
-- Patty Hansen

But one will slowly have trouble with breathing.

COPD as they say - and black lung on non-smokers.

Furnace and foundry work is harsh. Mowing and
breathing in sand dust. Living in some areas of
the world and breathing the air with blowing dust / sand...

Martin

On 3/13/2011 8:44 PM, Winston wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

ALL DUST, organic and inorganic, is deadly to human lung tissue.

Perhaps 'deadly' is too strong a word? I've cleaned up some
*extremely* dusty places without protection and suffered coughing,
wheezing and other entertaining sound effects and I'm still kicking.

If I had it to do over, I would have donned a respirator but
I'm older and more cowardly now.

Lesson learned. Catastrophe luckily avoided.

--Winston

Martin Eastburn wrote:
For many years men dressed solder irons and once true, use the rubber
on their shoe (inside of the heal) to coat all the tip except the
wetting location.

I've also used rubber erasers that I heat up with a heat gun and then
wipe over areas.

Modern workers don't need to worry - the joint is small. But they make
resists that you can paint on. Just like solder resist used on printed
circuit boards.

I'd think on some items it might be best to use High temperature (glass)
tape. Woven glass. or Fiber glass with glue on the back.

I think you can buy resist at local Radio Shack stores.

Martin

On 3/13/2011 4:48 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

I'll try this graphite trick. I should have been more clear that the
soldering here is basically small pipe-like components, being done with a
mapp torch and acid flux, not a soldering iron.

Google "braze stop off". "Stop off" is the key term. We used to mix
up several kinds for vacuum brazing applications. basically a paste
made from stuff like aluminum oxide dust and a vehicle, sometimes
alcohol. Could be water, I suppose.

Pete Stanaitis
-----------------

Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 18:44:37 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

ALL DUST, organic and inorganic, is deadly to human lung tissue.

Perhaps 'deadly' is too strong a word? I've cleaned up some
*extremely* dusty places without protection and suffered coughing,
wheezing and other entertaining sound effects and I'm still kicking.

No, it kills tissue every time, though it may not kill you. It also
irritates the lungs enough to screw up your immune responses and can
result in cancer. Mother Nature sez "Thou shalt not inhale
particulates, dumbass."


If I had it to do over, I would have donned a respirator but
I'm older and more cowardly now.

Lesson learned. Catastrophe luckily avoided.

Ditto here, even when I mow my lawn, spray, or blow. I survived brake
dust as a mechanic in me yout.

--
You create your opportunities by asking for them.
-- Patty Hansen

In article ,
spaco wrote:

Google "braze stop off". "Stop off" is the key term. We used to mix
up several kinds for vacuum brazing applications. basically a paste
made from stuff like aluminum oxide dust and a vehicle, sometimes
alcohol. Could be water, I suppose.

Pete Stanaitis
-----------------

Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

IIRC yellow ochre is the default. Of course, just being filthy works,
too; but most people find that out when they fail to clean and solder
won't go where they want it to, rather than through intentional
exploitation of filth.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On Mar 14, 7:48*am, Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

Its knowledge, and craft. The knowledge bit is is straightforward

prepare the area to be soldered only
flux it up
use a HOT iron. No ****y electronics ones - at least 100watts, with a
big tip, conical shaped.
get in and out fast. Dont try to tart it up, you will stuff it.

The Craft is:-
Have a practice run first, unless your an idiot. , you will be OK. No
debate, no issues, no preffered brands, its not rocket science, just
an old craft skill.

Andrew VK3BFA.

On 3/13/2011 5:48 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

I have used regular "white out" correction fluid for this lots of times.
works great. The water based stuff is makes less obnoxious fumes but
seems to be hard to find in the store sometimes. The solvent based stuff
works just as well, but I use with good ventilation so I don't inhale
the fumes when I heat it.

On Mar 13, 3:48*pm, Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing something
posted here about it, but can't locate it.

There is such a thing as "anti-flux", you can search on it. However,
when I silver braze, I use an old dodge I read about, which is to use
a soapstone(talc) marker and rub around the work area with it. It
works. Probably anything that spoils the clean metal surface and
resists the action of the flux would work. Talc quailfies since it's
resistant to heat and doesn't react with much of anything.

Stan

Al wrote:

On 3/13/2011 5:48 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
What's a good way to keep solder from flowing or wetting copper or brass
parts being soldered- sort of like an anti-flux. I recall seeing
something posted here about it, but can't locate it.

I have used regular "white out" correction fluid for this lots of times.
works great. The water based stuff is makes less obnoxious fumes but
seems to be hard to find in the store sometimes. The solvent based stuff
works just as well, but I use with good ventilation so I don't inhale
the fumes when I heat it.

Try "white out for copies," maybe? I'd have thought Vaseline, but depending
on your heat source, that might make nasty fumes.

Or, just don't slop molten solder all over everything. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich