I need to glue two large pieces of granite together at the edge.

I will not need to see the bottom of either part so I want to make a large
overlapping "plate" to span the "crack" and hold the two pieces together.

The edge is about 30" in length and I figured an 18" square "patch" or
"plate" below glued to both sides would work. The material isn't thick
enough to use lag bolts and a plate.

....Thinking either construction adhesive or Gorilla Glue.

I'll put the plate on from below and press it up using bracing. I'll have a
lot of weight on top to keep the pressure constant overnight or longer.

I'm thinking of using an aluminum plate simply because it's easy for me to
get and easier to move around.

Any suggestions or thoughts?

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

On 2011-03-01, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
I need to glue two large pieces of granite together at the edge.

I will not need to see the bottom of either part so I want to make a large
overlapping "plate" to span the "crack" and hold the two pieces together.

The edge is about 30" in length and I figured an 18" square "patch" or
"plate" below glued to both sides would work. The material isn't thick
enough to use lag bolts and a plate.

...Thinking either construction adhesive or Gorilla Glue.

I'll put the plate on from below and press it up using bracing. I'll have a
lot of weight on top to keep the pressure constant overnight or longer.

I'm thinking of using an aluminum plate simply because it's easy for me to
get and easier to move around.

Any suggestions or thoughts?


I would use plywood and epoxy.

i

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
I need to glue two large pieces of granite together at the edge.

I will not need to see the bottom of either part so I want to make a large
overlapping "plate" to span the "crack" and hold the two pieces together.

The edge is about 30" in length and I figured an 18" square "patch" or
"plate" below glued to both sides would work. The material isn't thick
enough to use lag bolts and a plate.

...Thinking either construction adhesive or Gorilla Glue.

I'll put the plate on from below and press it up using bracing. I'll have
a lot of weight on top to keep the pressure constant overnight or longer.

I'm thinking of using an aluminum plate simply because it's easy for me to
get and easier to move around.

Any suggestions or thoughts?

My first thought is, good luck! g

Aluminum has three times the thermal coefficient of expansion as that of
granite. If this is an indoors application, and if the place where you do
the gluing is roughly the same temperature as the place where you will use
it, you probably won't have a problem. If the temps are much different, the
aluminum will try to shear off of the granite.

It's difficult to glue anything to aluminum without preparation. A thin
layer of aluminum oxide begins to form within a few seconds of cleaning it,
and it's a very weak layer.

Epoxy is used for gluing granite and other masonry materials, but a strong
epoxy often is brittle and the shearing problem will be worse. The
construction adhesive you're talking about is, I think, recycled chewing gum
g, and it's less susceptible to brittle shearing but it's also a lot
weaker. I'd call the maker of Gorilla Glue before even considering the use
of it here. It's fairly reactive (a moisture-curing polyurethane) and I'd
want to know how it sticks to these materials. I always ask for an engineer
when I make those calls, and I eventually get one. Elmer's makes the same
product under a different name, so I'd call them first.

We'll keep our fingers crossed for you. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

In article ,
"Joe AutoDrill" wrote:

I need to glue two large pieces of granite together at the edge.

I will not need to see the bottom of either part so I want to make a large
overlapping "plate" to span the "crack" and hold the two pieces together.

The edge is about 30" in length and I figured an 18" square "patch" or
"plate" below glued to both sides would work. The material isn't thick
enough to use lag bolts and a plate.

...Thinking either construction adhesive or Gorilla Glue.

I'll put the plate on from below and press it up using bracing. I'll have a
lot of weight on top to keep the pressure constant overnight or longer.

I'm thinking of using an aluminum plate simply because it's easy for me to
get and easier to move around.

Any suggestions or thoughts?

Why not avoid the thermal expansion problems you will have with aluminum
and use a couple (or 2.5) of (easily available, inexpensive) granite
floor tiles? If you really want a good joint, drill both sides and dowel
them as well as gluing (stainless steel dowels, probably. Pick size to
suit thickness.) Neither construction adhesive nor gorilla glue are
particularly suited to granite, nor in any way to making two pieces of
granite act like one (and if you don't need them to act like one, why
bother gluing at all?) Various types of epoxy are far better suited to
that purpose.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
I need to glue two large pieces of granite together at the edge.
....
...Thinking either construction adhesive or Gorilla Glue.
....

Granite counter tops are epoxied at the seams. Check with your local
fabricator. Bob

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
I need to glue two large pieces of granite together at the edge.

I will not need to see the bottom of either part so I want to make a
large overlapping "plate" to span the "crack" and hold the two pieces
together.
The edge is about 30" in length and I figured an 18" square "patch" or
"plate" below glued to both sides would work. The material isn't thick
enough to use lag bolts and a plate.

...Thinking either construction adhesive or Gorilla Glue.

I'll put the plate on from below and press it up using bracing. I'll
have a lot of weight on top to keep the pressure constant overnight
or longer.
I'm thinking of using an aluminum plate simply because it's easy for
me to get and easier to move around.

Any suggestions or thoughts?

how much flexing does it have to prevent? if you just want it to stay
together when it's laying on something, some ge silicone 2 would work well.
put zigzags of silicone (since it's air cured, you don't want to prevent air
movement into the middle) on the Al, press together, and leave sit without
movement for 24 hours. it's pretty good for sheer resistance, and very good
for pull apart resistance.

i use it for gluing glass to metal all the time, and the bond can be
stronger than the glass.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/ChaniArts

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

I need to glue two large pieces of granite together at the edge.

I will not need to see the bottom of either part so I want to make a large
overlapping "plate" to span the "crack" and hold the two pieces together.

The edge is about 30" in length and I figured an 18" square "patch" or
"plate" below glued to both sides would work. The material isn't thick
enough to use lag bolts and a plate.

...Thinking either construction adhesive or Gorilla Glue.

I'll put the plate on from below and press it up using bracing. I'll have a
lot of weight on top to keep the pressure constant overnight or longer.

I'm thinking of using an aluminum plate simply because it's easy for me to
get and easier to move around.

Any suggestions or thoughts?

You broke your kitchen counter?

Certainly a color matched epoxy would seem the be the appropriate
material to use, and a counter fabricator should have it available. I
wouldn't glue a plate to the bottom, due to the expansion issues others
have noted. I would look to place a support under the crack however and
wood with a buffer of wax paper ought to be fine.

You broke your kitchen counter?

Thank God, no. The previous owner essnetially has a floating island of
granite pressed up against an anchored countertop. It looks seamless, but
alas, there is a seam. It opens whenever someone leans on the "island" hard
enough.

I'm not so concerned with it looking seamless as I am with it not moving
around as the "island" really isn't totally disconnected either. It has a
real wood veneer on the far side that flexes and buckles when the thing
moves too far.

....I'm too lazy to disassemble the whole thing enough to anchor it to the
floor so I figured I'd just tie the moving top to the non-moving top as best
as I could.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

This website might be helpful...

http://www.thistothat.com/

Ooh... Forgot about that site.

Thank you.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

You broke your kitchen counter?

Thank God, no. The previous owner essnetially has a floating island of
granite pressed up against an anchored countertop. It looks seamless, but
alas, there is a seam. It opens whenever someone leans on the "island" hard
enough.

I'm not so concerned with it looking seamless as I am with it not moving
around as the "island" really isn't totally disconnected either. It has a
real wood veneer on the far side that flexes and buckles when the thing
moves too far.

...I'm too lazy to disassemble the whole thing enough to anchor it to the
floor so I figured I'd just tie the moving top to the non-moving top as best
as I could.

Ok, then the answer is very simple - silicone caulk. Bathroom vanity
tops are normally anchored solely in this way with caulk. Lift the
floating island and apply some dabs of silicone adhesive caulk around
it's supports, apply a bead of caulk into the gap between sections and
lower and press everything back into alignment. Let the gap caulk
squeeze to the surface and cure, then trim it off flush with a razor
blade. Use color matched caulk.

On Tue, 01 Mar 2011 10:07:22 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Joe AutoDrill wrote:

I need to glue two large pieces of granite together at the edge.

I will not need to see the bottom of either part so I want to make a large
overlapping "plate" to span the "crack" and hold the two pieces together.

The edge is about 30" in length and I figured an 18" square "patch" or
"plate" below glued to both sides would work. The material isn't thick
enough to use lag bolts and a plate.

...Thinking either construction adhesive or Gorilla Glue.

I'll put the plate on from below and press it up using bracing. I'll have a
lot of weight on top to keep the pressure constant overnight or longer.

I'm thinking of using an aluminum plate simply because it's easy for me to
get and easier to move around.

Any suggestions or thoughts?

You broke your kitchen counter?

Aw, just spackle that puppy and slap some granite paint on it. It'll
last for awhile.

--
That is what learning is. You suddenly understand something
you've understood all your life, but in a new way.
-- Doris Lessing

On Tue, 1 Mar 2011 08:18:53 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

I need to glue two large pieces of granite together at the edge.

I will not need to see the bottom of either part so I want to make a large
overlapping "plate" to span the "crack" and hold the two pieces together.

The edge is about 30" in length and I figured an 18" square "patch" or
"plate" below glued to both sides would work. The material isn't thick
enough to use lag bolts and a plate.

...Thinking either construction adhesive or Gorilla Glue.

I'll put the plate on from below and press it up using bracing. I'll have a
lot of weight on top to keep the pressure constant overnight or longer.

I'm thinking of using an aluminum plate simply because it's easy for me to
get and easier to move around.

Any suggestions or thoughts?

I have done a bit of stone-to-metal and stone-to-stone gluing. Not
aluminum I hasten to add.

1) Gorilla glue is worse than useless.
2) Polyurethane construction glue which does not foam was OK but a
pain to work with due to its high viscosity.
3) Epoxy works well *unless the piece is exposed to sun for prolonged
periods*

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC