I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i

On Feb 9, 12:34*pm, Ignoramus25972 ignoramus25...@NOSPAM.
25972.invalid wrote:
...
To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.
....
i

3/16" wall thickness?

Round or square tubing?

jsw

On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:34:02 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i
Just use a 5/8 drill bit. I've done this size with 118 points all the
time but you can reduce the force needed considerably with web
thinning or split point 135 bits.

On 2011-02-09, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Feb 9, 12:34?pm, Ignoramus25972 ignoramus25...@NOSPAM.
25972.invalid wrote:
...
To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.
....
i

3/16" wall thickness?

Yes

Round or square tubing?

Square

On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:34:02 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i
Just use a 5/8 drill bit. I've done this size with 118 points all the
time but you can reduce the force needed considerably with web
thinning or split point 135 bits.



I hope that this 3 HP Bridgeport should have no problems drilling 5/8
holes.

No need for any carbide here, right?

Also, Karl, I will appreciate some guidance on speeds and feeds. Lots
of tables around, but I would prefer something from someone with
practical experience. Coolant will be available. Do I need any kind of
pecking here?

On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:34:02 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i

Rotabroach / annular cutter. You'll want to set up a slug ejector,
which is just a spring loaded pin mounted in the hole in the cutter's
shank.
http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Ma...49-59-0625.htm

--
Ned Simmons

"Ignoramus25972" wrote in message
...
On 2011-02-09, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Feb 9, 12:34?pm, Ignoramus25972 ignoramus25...@NOSPAM.
25972.invalid wrote:
...
To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.
....
i

3/16" wall thickness?

Yes

Round or square tubing?

Square


Or use Telespar/Telestrut...

On 2/9/2011 1:09 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:34:02 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i

Rotabroach / annular cutter. You'll want to set up a slug ejector,
which is just a spring loaded pin mounted in the hole in the cutter's
shank.
http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Ma...49-59-0625.htm


Thats my suggestion.. Sometimes people look too far into a job and end
up spending way much more money on tooling that is needed. We use
rotabroaches on almost every structural steel job we do in the CNC's .
even created some toolholders to accommodate the slug ejector.

On Feb 9, 10:34*am, Ignoramus25972 ignoramus25...@NOSPAM.
25972.invalid wrote:
I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i

Step drill from HF? Or spend the big bucks and get the real deal from
Irwin, AKA Unibit. I've done switch holes in steel panels about that
size with one. Just depends on whether you just need a hole or a
precision bore. Look elsewhere for a precision bore. A set can be
had on sale from HF for cheap, even more if you've got a 20% off
coupon.

Stan

Ignoramus25972 wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i

Weld 3 or 4 of these on your cart and save yourself a lot of work:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...vel-41006.html

On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:49:56 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:34:02 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i
Just use a 5/8 drill bit. I've done this size with 118 points all the
time but you can reduce the force needed considerably with web
thinning or split point 135 bits.



I hope that this 3 HP Bridgeport should have no problems drilling 5/8
holes.

No need for any carbide here, right?
nope

Also, Karl, I will appreciate some guidance on speeds and feeds. Lots
of tables around, but I would prefer something from someone with
practical experience. Coolant will be available. Do I need any kind of
pecking here?

I have a speed and feed pots that lets me go from 20% to 200% on each.
So, I'm real lazy - put in a feed of 5 and a speed of 200 then start
at 50% on both and adjust till it looks right. Sorry, I'm an old
manual guy. I do run WAY below max speeds and feeds - machine run
time is never an issue and I hate breaking and dulling sh*t.

For this write a sub to feed 1/2" then rapid down to bottom of tube
and feed another 1/2" then rapid up. Call sub after each X Y move.

Karl

On 2011-02-09, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus25972 wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i

Weld 3 or 4 of these on your cart and save yourself a lot of work:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...vel-41006.html

Pete, I bought all the square tubing pre-cut from speedy metals. All I
need, if I got everything right, is to drill 120 holes (with CNC) and
then weld. It is not really much more work.

i

On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:49:56 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:34:02 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i
Just use a 5/8 drill bit. I've done this size with 118 points all the
time but you can reduce the force needed considerably with web
thinning or split point 135 bits.



I hope that this 3 HP Bridgeport should have no problems drilling 5/8
holes.

No need for any carbide here, right?
nope

Also, Karl, I will appreciate some guidance on speeds and feeds. Lots
of tables around, but I would prefer something from someone with
practical experience. Coolant will be available. Do I need any kind of
pecking here?

I have a speed and feed pots that lets me go from 20% to 200% on each.
So, I'm real lazy - put in a feed of 5 and a speed of 200 then start
at 50% on both and adjust till it looks right. Sorry, I'm an old
manual guy. I do run WAY below max speeds and feeds - machine run
time is never an issue and I hate breaking and dulling sh*t.

For this write a sub to feed 1/2" then rapid down to bottom of tube
and feed another 1/2" then rapid up. Call sub after each X Y move.

Karl

I was thinking, right or wrong, that drilling "through" the tube would
not get enough coolant to the bottom. So I wanted to do it by drilling
all holes on one side, then flipping the piece in the vise and
drilling all holes in the other side.

Ignoramus25972 wrote:

On 2011-02-09, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus25972 wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i

Weld 3 or 4 of these on your cart and save yourself a lot of work:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...vel-41006.html

Pete, I bought all the square tubing pre-cut from speedy metals. All I
need, if I got everything right, is to drill 120 holes (with CNC) and
then weld. It is not really much more work.

i

Does the design give you the same ease of being able to wheel the cart
into position, swing down the jacks and then use them to lift the cart
off the wheels and level it?

On 2011-02-09, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus25972 wrote:

On 2011-02-09, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus25972 wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i

Weld 3 or 4 of these on your cart and save yourself a lot of work:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...vel-41006.html

Pete, I bought all the square tubing pre-cut from speedy metals. All I
need, if I got everything right, is to drill 120 holes (with CNC) and
then weld. It is not really much more work.

i

Does the design give you the same ease of being able to wheel the cart
into position, swing down the jacks and then use them to lift the cart
off the wheels and level it?

Pretty much, yes.

To move the cart, I will not even remove the legs, I will just raise
them a bit, so that the generator would overturn. But they will be
fully removable.

It would take several guys to move the cart this heavy. I moved this
generator into place with my now deceased father in law, on an
inferior cart.

i

On Feb 9, 9:34*am, Ignoramus25972 ignoramus25...@NOSPAM.
25972.invalid wrote:
I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart...
To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project.

If the required accuracy is '9/16" or 5/8" ', why not mark with
crayon and cut with oxyacetylene?

....
I was thinking, right or wrong, that drilling "through" the tube would
not get enough coolant to the bottom. So I wanted to do it by drilling
all holes on one side, then flipping the piece in the vise and
drilling all holes in the other side.

do it this way and watch all your holes not line up. BTDT

Karl

On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
...
I was thinking, right or wrong, that drilling "through" the tube would
not get enough coolant to the bottom. So I wanted to do it by drilling
all holes on one side, then flipping the piece in the vise and
drilling all holes in the other side.

do it this way and watch all your holes not line up. BTDT

Karl

These are going to be 5/8" holes holes, and I will use 1/2" bolts.

Ignoramus25972 wrote:

On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:49:56 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:34:02 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i
Just use a 5/8 drill bit. I've done this size with 118 points all the
time but you can reduce the force needed considerably with web
thinning or split point 135 bits.



I hope that this 3 HP Bridgeport should have no problems drilling 5/8
holes.

No need for any carbide here, right?
nope

Also, Karl, I will appreciate some guidance on speeds and feeds. Lots
of tables around, but I would prefer something from someone with
practical experience. Coolant will be available. Do I need any kind of
pecking here?

I have a speed and feed pots that lets me go from 20% to 200% on each.
So, I'm real lazy - put in a feed of 5 and a speed of 200 then start
at 50% on both and adjust till it looks right. Sorry, I'm an old
manual guy. I do run WAY below max speeds and feeds - machine run
time is never an issue and I hate breaking and dulling sh*t.

For this write a sub to feed 1/2" then rapid down to bottom of tube
and feed another 1/2" then rapid up. Call sub after each X Y move.

Karl

I was thinking, right or wrong, that drilling "through" the tube would
not get enough coolant to the bottom. So I wanted to do it by drilling
all holes on one side, then flipping the piece in the vise and
drilling all holes in the other side.

Enough coolant will travel down the flutes of the drill. You don't need
a lot, since you are not pushing the speed and feed envelope in a
production application. When I drill stuff like this on my manual mill
(and I use a lot of square tube) I typically squirt a little sulfured
cutting oil on the bit when starting to drill and that's all for both
the top and bottom of the tube. I've never had an issue, broke or dulled
a bit that way, and this includes on 1.5" and 2" 3/16" wall tube and 3"
1/4" wall tube in hole sizes to 1/2".

On Feb 9, 2:59*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
Ignoramus25972 wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart....

Weld 3 or 4 of these on your cart and save yourself a lot of work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...ailer-jack...-

I have several of those to bolt onto heavy stuff to move it around. An
example:
https://picasaweb.google.com/KB1DAL/...51034176921634
The stock casters are useless off pavement.
http://www.hoosiertrailer.com/Mobile.asp

The original single wheel won't support 400 Lbs on dirt. The added
outrigger wheels catch on bumps and prevent the wheel from castering
properly, thus the wooden towing handle which works well for one jack
but would be awkward to arrange as two-wheel Ackermann steering.

On the non-steering end I connect the two axles with threaded rod and
couplers to keep the wheels parallel. The jacks should be close enough
together to raise and lower both simultaneously.

jsw

On Feb 9, 3:26*pm, Ignoramus25972 ignoramus25...@NOSPAM.
25972.invalid wrote:
...
I was thinking, right or wrong, that drilling "through" the tube would
not get enough coolant to the bottom. So I wanted to do it by drilling
all holes on one side, then flipping the piece in the vise and
drilling all holes in the other side.

Don't know CNC, 5/8" holes through 1/4" wall square tubing is no
strain on my little Clausing mill at 180 RPM, with brushed-on cutting
oil on inexpensive S&D drill bits.

jsw

On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 14:26:45 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:49:56 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 11:34:02 -0600, Ignoramus25972
wrote:

I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

i
Just use a 5/8 drill bit. I've done this size with 118 points all the
time but you can reduce the force needed considerably with web
thinning or split point 135 bits.



I hope that this 3 HP Bridgeport should have no problems drilling 5/8
holes.

No need for any carbide here, right?
nope

Also, Karl, I will appreciate some guidance on speeds and feeds. Lots
of tables around, but I would prefer something from someone with
practical experience. Coolant will be available. Do I need any kind of
pecking here?

I have a speed and feed pots that lets me go from 20% to 200% on each.
So, I'm real lazy - put in a feed of 5 and a speed of 200 then start
at 50% on both and adjust till it looks right. Sorry, I'm an old
manual guy. I do run WAY below max speeds and feeds - machine run
time is never an issue and I hate breaking and dulling sh*t.

For this write a sub to feed 1/2" then rapid down to bottom of tube
and feed another 1/2" then rapid up. Call sub after each X Y move.

Karl

I was thinking, right or wrong, that drilling "through" the tube would
not get enough coolant to the bottom. So I wanted to do it by drilling
all holes on one side, then flipping the piece in the vise and
drilling all holes in the other side.

I think a healthy squirt feed of coolant should make it down the
flutes to the other side on such a slow-turning 1/2" billdrit.

Otherwise, just plug the ends and fill the tube.

--
Education is when you read the fine print.
Experience is what you get if you don't.
-- Pete Seeger

On 2011-02-09, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Feb 9, 3:26?pm, Ignoramus25972 ignoramus25...@NOSPAM.
25972.invalid wrote:
...
I was thinking, right or wrong, that drilling "through" the tube would
not get enough coolant to the bottom. So I wanted to do it by drilling
all holes on one side, then flipping the piece in the vise and
drilling all holes in the other side.

Don't know CNC, 5/8" holes through 1/4" wall square tubing is no
strain on my little Clausing mill at 180 RPM, with brushed-on cutting
oil on inexpensive S&D drill bits.

jsw

I used to do that too, but now with the automatic mill, I need to be
extra careful, as I cannot watch every hole.

i

--Plan B: getcher self a couple of those cheap H-F electric jacks;
put one on each side. When you get the thing to where you want it to stay
for a while just run the jacks down to anchor it in place.

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Steel, Stainless, Titanium:
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Guaranteed Uncertified Welding!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

Ignoramus25972 wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Wed, 09 Feb 2011 19:33:12 -0600:

Don't know CNC, 5/8" holes through 1/4" wall square tubing is no
strain on my little Clausing mill at 180 RPM, with brushed-on cutting
oil on inexpensive S&D drill bits.

jsw

I used to do that too, but now with the automatic mill, I need to be
extra careful, as I cannot watch every hole.

You can place a can of oil on the table and have the mill dip the bit
in the can before each hole.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

On 2011-02-09, Ignoramus25972 wrote:
I have a little project which would be to put my 1,400 lbs generator
on a heavy duty Radio Flyer cart and make outboard legs, so that when
it is stationary and not being moved around, it stands on those legs
and is not supported the wheels of the cart.

To that end, I would need to drill an estimated number of 112 holes,
probably 9/16" or 5/8" diameter each, in 3/16" steel tubing.

I *hope* that you mean in 3/16" *wall* steel tubing (presumably
square tubing, but maybe round or rectangular. :-) If it was 3/16"
*diameter* tubing -- which is how I read it -- there would be nothing
left where you drilled the hole.

This does seem like a great CNC project. My question is how to drill
them with minimum fuss. I would prefer, if possible, to avoid any tool
changes and general putzing around.

So, what is the CNC guru's approach to this? Just get a short 5/8"
drill bit? Or to bore them with something smaller?

How clean do the holes need to be? If clean, I would go with a
trepaning cutter -- a hollow mill perhaps with a spring to eject the
blanks. Otherwise, you might try hole saws, which tend to leave an ugly
hole, not a smooth-walled one. With those, you would need a lot of
pecking to clear chips.

The 5/8" drill bit should work well, at the right speeds and
feeds -- just more metal turned into chips, so more energy consumed
over the whole job.

I do not care too much if, say, boring takes a bit longer, the machine
will be working and not me. But I would personally prefer to avoid
tool changes and hassles.

Since you don't have a tool changer on your machine. (Neither do
I, FWIW. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

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On 2011-02-09, Karl Townsend wrote:
...
I was thinking, right or wrong, that drilling "through" the tube would
not get enough coolant to the bottom. So I wanted to do it by drilling
all holes on one side, then flipping the piece in the vise and
drilling all holes in the other side.

do it this way and watch all your holes not line up. BTDT

Karl

I did a couple of 5/8" holes for a hitch adaptor, and they did line
up.

i