The patient is a badly abused 5" 3 jaw bought yesterday at Cabin Fever.
The scroll/jaws are frozen. What is the procedure to open the case and
disassemble?

Kevin Gallimore

On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 08:41:10 -0500, axolotl
wrote:

The patient is a badly abused 5" 3 jaw bought yesterday at Cabin Fever.
The scroll/jaws are frozen. What is the procedure to open the case and
disassemble?

Kevin Gallimore

Soak in more economical diesel for a month?

SW

"Sunworshipper" SW@GWNTUNDRA wrote in message
news
On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 08:41:10 -0500, axolotl
wrote:

The patient is a badly abused 5" 3 jaw bought yesterday at Cabin Fever.
The scroll/jaws are frozen. What is the procedure to open the case and
disassemble?

Kevin Gallimore

Soak in more economical diesel for a month?


I was gonna say toss it in a buck of used detergent motor oil left over from
your last oil change.

--Have you considered calling Buck?

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Steel, Stainless, Titanium:
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : Guaranteed Uncertified Welding!
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 08:41:10 -0500, axolotl
wrote:

The patient is a badly abused 5" 3 jaw bought yesterday at Cabin Fever.
The scroll/jaws are frozen. What is the procedure to open the case and
disassemble?

Kevin Gallimore

There's two plate to remove. The "adjust" plate should have about six
socket head screws bolted on the back side of the chuck. Next, the
scroll plate shoould have about six longer socket head screws going
through the face of the chuck.

If things are normal, the scroll itself should just fall out. I've not
worked with a frozen one but you can tap on the scroll with the jaws
removed. You may have a bit of challenge here, but at least no more
fasteners are holding you.

I've not removed the chuck keys on my cleanups and I don't remember
how they come out.

karl

Sunworshipper wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 08:41:10 -0500, axolotl

The patient is a badly abused 5" 3 jaw bought yesterday at Cabin Fever.
The scroll/jaws are frozen. What is the procedure to open the case and
disassemble?

Soak in more economical diesel for a month?

Hmm. I was going to say that, but thought, "What do I know?" ;-)

Heck, I didn't even know one of those could _be_ disassembled! =:-O

Cheers!
Rich

On 1/16/2011 8:41 AM, axolotl wrote:
The patient is a badly abused 5" 3 jaw bought yesterday at Cabin Fever.

Thank you gentlemen. Soaking in penetrating oil and calling Buck are
both good plans, but patience is in short supply in Jersey. The
instructions on the Buck website are for a different, no doubt newer model.
It was pretty straightforward, as Karl suggests. I tapped a single edge
razor blade followed by a knife blade into the seam between the
sections, then tapped the jaws and interior pieces out with a copper drift.
The upshot is a usable, if chewed up, 5" three jaw harvested from a
vendor's $5 table. If anyone asks, I'm dedicated to conserving the
earth's resources. Not just cheap.

Kevin Gallimore

On Jan 16, 7:43*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2011-01-16, axolotl wrote:

The patient is a badly abused 5" 3 jaw bought yesterday at Cabin Fever.
The scroll/jaws are frozen. What is the procedure to open the case and
disassemble?

* * * * Never had a genuine Buck -- but the basic principle would be:

0) * * *Before doing *any* of this, prior to removing anything, check
* * * * for marks so the parts can be reassembled in the same relative
* * * * position as they were before. *If there are no marks, make some.
* * * * say two center punch marks on either side of the dividing line
* * * * between the chuck body and the adjuster collar, and three on
* * * * either side of the dividing line between the adjuster collar and
* * * * the backplate.

1) * * *Remove long screws through body to backplace.

2) * * *Remove backplate.

3) * * *This should expose counterbored screws in the collar which
* * * * carries the offset screws. *Remove those screws to remove the
* * * * collar from the body of the chuck.

4) * * *At this point, you should be able to get to the screws which
* * * * attach a reduced diameter cover plate from behind the scroll
* * * * plate. *Remove these, and the backing plate.

5) * * *Remove the scroll plate. *(The bevel gears on the wrench
* * * * sockets may be on either side of the scroll plate, so you may
* * * * have to remove them before you remove the scroll plate.

6) * * *Once the scroll plate is out, the only thing holding the jaws
* * * * in place should be friction. *Depending on how badly abused the
* * * * chuck was, you may have to drive them radially out -- using some
* * * * aluminum or hardwood to transfer the hammer blows to the jaw
* * * * bodies close to the surface of the chuck body. *(Lubricate the
* * * * ways first, of course.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
* * * * * * * * * Remove oil spill source from e-mail
*Email: * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I agree. I would also mark each jaw (if it doesn't already have a
number or set of punch marks) and the corresponding slot that it is in
to make sure that they can be reassembled the same way. Assemble it
back the same way that you dissembled it.

Denis G. wrote:

I agree. I would also mark each jaw (if it doesn't already have a
number or set of punch marks) and the corresponding slot that it is in
to make sure that they can be reassembled the same way. Assemble it
back the same way that you dissembled it.

Well, in English, "disassembled" - to dissemble is to ramble, pontificate,
etc.

But I nitpick.

However, it's true, I do know this - for a three-jaw chuck, the three jaws
have to be 120 degrees "out of phase," as it were.

Now, _that's_ dissembling. ;-D

Cheers!
Rich

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Sunworshipper" SW@GWNTUNDRA wrote in message
news
On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 08:41:10 -0500, axolotl
wrote:

The patient is a badly abused 5" 3 jaw bought yesterday at Cabin Fever.
The scroll/jaws are frozen. What is the procedure to open the case and
disassemble?

Kevin Gallimore

Soak in more economical diesel for a month?


I was gonna say toss it in a buck of used detergent motor oil left over
from
your last oil change.


LOL

Better clean it out really good before use...

--

On Jan 16, 11:48*pm, Rich Grise wrote:
Denis G. wrote:
I agree. *I would also mark each jaw (if it doesn't already have a
number or set of punch marks) and the corresponding slot that it is in
to make sure that they can be reassembled the same way. *Assemble it
back the same way that you dissembled it.

Well, in English, "disassembled" - to dissemble is to ramble, pontificate,
etc.

But I nitpick.

However, it's true, I do know this - for a three-jaw chuck, the three jaws
have to be 120 degrees "out of phase," as it were.

Now, _that's_ dissembling. ;-D

Cheers!
Rich

Oops! You're right. I'll have to check my points. The fingers on the
keyboard are mis-firing.

On 2011-01-17, Denis G. wrote:
On Jan 16, 7:43*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2011-01-16, axolotl wrote:

[ ... ]

I agree. I would also mark each jaw (if it doesn't already have a
number or set of punch marks) and the corresponding slot that it is in
to make sure that they can be reassembled the same way. Assemble it
back the same way that you dissembled it.

Note that the jaws *may* be numbered in the bottom of the
grooves the ways run in, and the slot may have a number which only
becomes visible when the jaw is fully removed. The jaw numbers are
likely to be a serial number and an individual jaw number. If the
numbers in the jaws don't match, you have a franken-chuck. :-)

Also -- while it is apart -- check for play between the scroll
plate and the center of the chuck body. If you find some, measure the
total gap with feeler gauges and cut a strip of shim stock one-half the
thickness that the feeler gauge shows and wrap it around the center
before you slip the scroll plate on (if you can control it that way) or
if necessary, slip the scroll plate on and then work the shim stock in
between it and the center of the chuck body. The more play you have
here, the more the jaws will shift off center when tightened, and the
more they will move if you use a different socket to tighten them.

There should be a socket which is marked (with a stamped '0' or
something similar) which gives the minimum runout when used. You may
have to grind the ends of the jaws to bring this back to true once you
have the shim stock in place.

Best of luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---