Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Old November 24th 10, 01:53 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Picture
http://www.yumabassman.com/bulletinb...=671&mode=view

I was just hoping for good mechanicals when I bought it, but it might
actually be repairable.

Its had a new Mitsubishi controller installed, and I was told that they got
the X & Y to work, but had some problems with the Z, I wonder if maybe
there is a brake on Z that was not being disengaged with the new control.

I had started looking for manuals, but there was a stack of manuals that
came with it. I was surprised since they were not advertised in the sale.
The manual for the Mitsubishi controller was inside the control cabinet too.

There is also a box of tapes (program and code files I assume) and five tool
holders including some minor tooling and a drill chuck. It looks like #30
tool holders, but I was told they were "Quick 200." Anybody know how to
measure them to know what it is. (I have not looked in the manuals yet.)

Now I have two problems.

1. Getting it off the trailer.

2. Powering it up. I'll need to get a pretty good size phase convertor
from the look of it.

It will probably be six months to a year before I can start cutting with it.




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Old November 24th 10, 02:51 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Tue, 23 Nov 2010 18:53:19 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

Picture
http://www.yumabassman.com/bulletinb...=671&mode=view

I was just hoping for good mechanicals when I bought it, but it might
actually be repairable.

Its had a new Mitsubishi controller installed, and I was told that they got
the X & Y to work, but had some problems with the Z, I wonder if maybe
there is a brake on Z that was not being disengaged with the new control.

I had started looking for manuals, but there was a stack of manuals that
came with it. I was surprised since they were not advertised in the sale.
The manual for the Mitsubishi controller was inside the control cabinet too.

There is also a box of tapes (program and code files I assume) and five tool
holders including some minor tooling and a drill chuck. It looks like #30
tool holders, but I was told they were "Quick 200." Anybody know how to
measure them to know what it is. (I have not looked in the manuals yet.)

Now I have two problems.

1. Getting it off the trailer.

2. Powering it up. I'll need to get a pretty good size phase convertor
from the look of it.

It will probably be six months to a year before I can start cutting with it.


No problems getting it home?

Looks like a fair job of tie down

Gunner

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or got lucky is never going to help 'the poor.' Poverty isn't
caused by some people having more money than others, just as obesity
isn't caused by McDonald's serving super-sized orders of French fries
Poverty, like obesity, is caused by the life choices that dictate
results." - John Tucci,
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Old November 24th 10, 03:34 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Metal Nibbler Three

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Nov 2010 18:53:19 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

Picture
http://www.yumabassman.com/bulletinb...=671&mode=view

I was just hoping for good mechanicals when I bought it, but it might
actually be repairable.

Its had a new Mitsubishi controller installed, and I was told that they
got
the X & Y to work, but had some problems with the Z, I wonder if maybe
there is a brake on Z that was not being disengaged with the new control.

I had started looking for manuals, but there was a stack of manuals that
came with it. I was surprised since they were not advertised in the sale.
The manual for the Mitsubishi controller was inside the control cabinet
too.

There is also a box of tapes (program and code files I assume) and five
tool
holders including some minor tooling and a drill chuck. It looks like #30
tool holders, but I was told they were "Quick 200." Anybody know how to
measure them to know what it is. (I have not looked in the manuals yet.)

Now I have two problems.

1. Getting it off the trailer.

2. Powering it up. I'll need to get a pretty good size phase convertor
from the look of it.

It will probably be six months to a year before I can start cutting with
it.


No problems getting it home?


Had one of the heavy straps on the mill cut completely through for no good
reason. It looked slack in the mirror so I pulled, tied off the cut end
with, and cinched it back down. Other than that. No issues. It was still
quite secure with the other three straps.


Looks like a fair job of tie down


Four straps on the mill. Two on the control box, and one across my
sacrificial slide panel. Its covered with a tarp in the yard right now.
Tomorrow I start trying to figure out exactly where I want it and how to
unload it. My loader won't handle that much weight. Neither will my cherry
picker. I guess I need to run right out and buy a forklift. LOL.

The electric winch made it very easy to slide it forward to just past the
balance point on the trailer.

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Old November 24th 10, 04:21 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On 2010-11-24, Bob La Londe wrote:
Picture
http://www.yumabassman.com/bulletinb...=671&mode=view


[ ... ]

There is also a box of tapes (program and code files I assume) and five tool
holders including some minor tooling and a drill chuck. It looks like #30
tool holders, but I was told they were "Quick 200." Anybody know how to
measure them to know what it is. (I have not looked in the manuals yet.)


Well -- the #30 ones are the same taper as the big end of an R8
collet -- and the same diameter. (You can find the dimensions in
Machinery's Handbook.)

The #30 has a flange past the big end which has two notches 180
degrees apart. If it is the NTMB 30 (or NMTB -- I keep getting that
reversed), the flange will be about 1/4" thick (says he without
measuring one) and the two notches will be identical. The edge will be
a simple edge to a disk. There will be a cylindrical section at the
small end, with an internal thread for a drawbar. (Though some
quick-change spindles do not need a drawbar.)

If the #30 is a CAT-30 or some of the other similar flavors, the
flange will be a bit thicker with a V-groove turned into the edge, and
the two notches will be of different size -- so the tool will always
load with the same orientation. It is a designed for an automatic tool
changer. With those, you will find a ball screwed into the end of the
conical section -- with no cylindrical section.

Now -- if the Quick-200 is what I am remembering, instead of
having a flange with a pair of notches, it will instead have a pair of
projecting wings about where the notches would be on a NTMB 30. And
they are smaller. But they are still tapered.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Old November 24th 10, 01:05 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 2,001
Default Metal Nibbler Three

Wow.. you could make mini-mills with that machine!

--
WB
..........


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Picture
http://www.yumabassman.com/bulletinb...=671&mode=view

I was just hoping for good mechanicals when I bought it, but it might
actually be repairable.

Its had a new Mitsubishi controller installed, and I was told that they
got the X & Y to work, but had some problems with the Z, I wonder if
maybe there is a brake on Z that was not being disengaged with the new
control.

I had started looking for manuals, but there was a stack of manuals that
came with it. I was surprised since they were not advertised in the sale.
The manual for the Mitsubishi controller was inside the control cabinet
too.

There is also a box of tapes (program and code files I assume) and five
tool holders including some minor tooling and a drill chuck. It looks
like #30 tool holders, but I was told they were "Quick 200." Anybody know
how to measure them to know what it is. (I have not looked in the manuals
yet.)

Now I have two problems.

1. Getting it off the trailer.

2. Powering it up. I'll need to get a pretty good size phase convertor
from the look of it.

It will probably be six months to a year before I can start cutting with
it.






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Old November 24th 10, 03:30 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Metal Nibbler Three

"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Wow.. you could make mini-mills with that machine!


That thought did cross my mind. Actually I could make all the structural
parts for mini mills on a mini mill by making a couple semi permanent
alignment jigs. Some of the bigger parts would be easier on this bad boy
though.




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Old November 24th 10, 03:31 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 347
Default Metal Nibbler Three

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2010-11-24, Bob La Londe wrote:
Picture
http://www.yumabassman.com/bulletinb...=671&mode=view


[ ... ]

There is also a box of tapes (program and code files I assume) and five
tool
holders including some minor tooling and a drill chuck. It looks like
#30
tool holders, but I was told they were "Quick 200." Anybody know how to
measure them to know what it is. (I have not looked in the manuals yet.)


Well -- the #30 ones are the same taper as the big end of an R8
collet -- and the same diameter. (You can find the dimensions in
Machinery's Handbook.)

The #30 has a flange past the big end which has two notches 180
degrees apart. If it is the NTMB 30 (or NMTB -- I keep getting that
reversed), the flange will be about 1/4" thick (says he without
measuring one) and the two notches will be identical. The edge will be
a simple edge to a disk. There will be a cylindrical section at the
small end, with an internal thread for a drawbar. (Though some
quick-change spindles do not need a drawbar.)

If the #30 is a CAT-30 or some of the other similar flavors, the
flange will be a bit thicker with a V-groove turned into the edge, and
the two notches will be of different size -- so the tool will always
load with the same orientation. It is a designed for an automatic tool
changer. With those, you will find a ball screwed into the end of the
conical section -- with no cylindrical section.

Now -- if the Quick-200 is what I am remembering, instead of
having a flange with a pair of notches, it will instead have a pair of
projecting wings about where the notches would be on a NTMB 30. And
they are smaller. But they are still tapered.


I'll post a picture later when I finish my coffee and wander out to the
shop.

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Old November 24th 10, 06:06 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default Metal Nibbler Three

Bob La Londe wrote:
... (I have not looked in the manuals yet.)

When all else fails, read the instructions.

Good Luck!
Rich

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Old November 24th 10, 08:23 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 2,001
Default Metal Nibbler Three

You've certainly demonstrated your many skills and abilities on the smaller
machines, so I hope to see the capabilities of this machine applied to some
future projects, and I presume you do, too.

--
WB
..........


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Wow.. you could make mini-mills with that machine!


That thought did cross my mind. Actually I could make all the structural
parts for mini mills on a mini mill by making a couple semi permanent
alignment jigs. Some of the bigger parts would be easier on this bad boy
though.







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