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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry sand...
I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but it's nearly useless for reconditioning. I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with the vanes removed. Anybody here have some actual experience???? Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of an art than a science... So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains elusive... Chet |
#2
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Chet wrote:
I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry sand... I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but it's nearly useless for reconditioning. I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with the vanes removed. Anybody here have some actual experience???? Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of an art than a science... So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains elusive... Chet Check out the archives at the yahoo group castinghobby . This subject has been mulled over repeatedly ... pun intended . -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
#3
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Thanks, Snag.
Checked it out... Looks like the wrong way to go... "Snag" wrote in message ... Chet wrote: I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry sand... I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but it's nearly useless for reconditioning. I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with the vanes removed. Anybody here have some actual experience???? Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of an art than a science... So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains elusive... Chet Check out the archives at the yahoo group castinghobby . This subject has been mulled over repeatedly ... pun intended . -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
#4
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Chet wrote:
Thanks, Snag. Checked it out... Looks like the wrong way to go... "Snag" wrote in message ... Chet wrote: I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry sand... I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but it's nearly useless for reconditioning. I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with the vanes removed. Anybody here have some actual experience???? Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of an art than a science... So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains elusive... Chet Check out the archives at the yahoo group castinghobby . This subject has been mulled over repeatedly ... pun intended . -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! Which carver do you have ? There are plans out there for a blade type made from an old propane tank , which I intend to build when I have both time and inclination . -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
#5
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The carver I built is based on rotating a 5 gal bucket with 1/2 hp motor
using belts to reduce the rpms... A frame holds a shaft with a pair of curved 'carvers' that can be adjusted in height. At first I really liked the system because you can mix the sand and clay and get a great mix. You then add water until the 'green sand' starts forming in sheets. A compression test at this point reveals good detail and a clean break. But using the carver for reconditioning is a different story... too much clumping and stalling... "Snag" wrote in message ... Chet wrote: Thanks, Snag. Checked it out... Looks like the wrong way to go... "Snag" wrote in message ... Chet wrote: I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry sand... I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but it's nearly useless for reconditioning. I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with the vanes removed. Anybody here have some actual experience???? Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of an art than a science... So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains elusive... Chet Check out the archives at the yahoo group castinghobby . This subject has been mulled over repeatedly ... pun intended . -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! Which carver do you have ? There are plans out there for a blade type made from an old propane tank , which I intend to build when I have both time and inclination . -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
#6
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Chet wrote:
The carver I built is based on rotating a 5 gal bucket with 1/2 hp motor using belts to reduce the rpms... A frame holds a shaft with a pair of curved 'carvers' that can be adjusted in height. At first I really liked the system because you can mix the sand and clay and get a great mix. You then add water until the 'green sand' starts forming in sheets. A compression test at this point reveals good detail and a clean break. But using the carver for reconditioning is a different story... too much clumping and stalling... Are you screening your sand to break up the big chunks ? 1/4" hardware cloth on a frame similar to a deep flask works very well for this . Also , I've found that if I mix my sand up in the bucket , chunks and all , then come back later after the moisture has had time to equalize a bit that the chunks are lots easier to break up . Of course if you're doing a lot of casting you'll need a lot of sand ... -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
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