Bowling ball muller?
 

I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry sand...
I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but it's nearly
useless for reconditioning.
I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with the
vanes removed.
Anybody here have some actual experience????
Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of an art
than a science...
So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains
elusive...
Chet

Bowling ball muller?
 

Chet wrote:
I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry sand...
I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but it's
nearly useless for reconditioning.
I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with
the vanes removed.
Anybody here have some actual experience????
Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of
an art than a science...
So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains
elusive...
Chet

Check out the archives at the yahoo group castinghobby . This subject has
been mulled over repeatedly ... pun intended .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Bowling ball muller?
 

Thanks, Snag.
Checked it out...
Looks like the wrong way to go...


"Snag" wrote in message
...
Chet wrote:
I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry sand...
I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but it's
nearly useless for reconditioning.
I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with
the vanes removed.
Anybody here have some actual experience????
Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of
an art than a science...
So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains
elusive...
Chet

Check out the archives at the yahoo group castinghobby . This subject has
been mulled over repeatedly ... pun intended .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Bowling ball muller?
 

Chet wrote:
Thanks, Snag.
Checked it out...
Looks like the wrong way to go...


"Snag" wrote in message
...
Chet wrote:
I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry
sand... I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but
it's nearly useless for reconditioning.
I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with
the vanes removed.
Anybody here have some actual experience????
Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of
an art than a science...
So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains
elusive...
Chet

Check out the archives at the yahoo group castinghobby . This
subject has been mulled over repeatedly ... pun intended .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Which carver do you have ? There are plans out there for a blade type made
from an old propane tank , which I intend to build when I have both time and
inclination .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Bowling ball muller?
 

The carver I built is based on rotating a 5 gal bucket with 1/2 hp motor
using belts to reduce the rpms...
A frame holds a shaft with a pair of curved 'carvers' that can be adjusted
in height.
At first I really liked the system because you can mix the sand and clay and
get a great mix.
You then add water until the 'green sand' starts forming in sheets.
A compression test at this point reveals good detail and a clean break.
But using the carver for reconditioning is a different story... too much
clumping and stalling...

"Snag" wrote in message
...
Chet wrote:
Thanks, Snag.
Checked it out...
Looks like the wrong way to go...


"Snag" wrote in message
...
Chet wrote:
I've run into a problem with easily re-conditioning my foundry
sand... I've been using a mini-carver design for fresh batches, but
it's nearly useless for reconditioning.
I'm toying with using a bowling ball in a regular cement mixer with
the vanes removed.
Anybody here have some actual experience????
Replacing the exact right amount of water after a pour seems more of
an art than a science...
So far I'm an expert on too much or too little... just right remains
elusive...
Chet

Check out the archives at the yahoo group castinghobby . This
subject has been mulled over repeatedly ... pun intended .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Which carver do you have ? There are plans out there for a blade type made
from an old propane tank , which I intend to build when I have both time
and inclination .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Bowling ball muller?
 

Chet wrote:
The carver I built is based on rotating a 5 gal bucket with 1/2 hp
motor using belts to reduce the rpms...
A frame holds a shaft with a pair of curved 'carvers' that can be
adjusted in height.
At first I really liked the system because you can mix the sand and
clay and get a great mix.
You then add water until the 'green sand' starts forming in sheets.
A compression test at this point reveals good detail and a clean
break. But using the carver for reconditioning is a different story...
too
much clumping and stalling...

Are you screening your sand to break up the big chunks ? 1/4" hardware
cloth on a frame similar to a deep flask works very well for this . Also ,
I've found that if I mix my sand up in the bucket , chunks and all , then
come back later after the moisture has had time to equalize a bit that the
chunks are lots easier to break up . Of course if you're doing a lot of
casting you'll need a lot of sand ...

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

Bowling ball muller?
 

Yes, I use the 1/4" screen...
And I use a concrete mixing tub to lay out my sand for evaporation of excess
water..
Regular raking gets the wet stuff on top...
And, yes again, it's neat how the moisure will equalize in a closed bucket.


"Snag" wrote in message
...
Chet wrote:
The carver I built is based on rotating a 5 gal bucket with 1/2 hp
motor using belts to reduce the rpms...
A frame holds a shaft with a pair of curved 'carvers' that can be
adjusted in height.
At first I really liked the system because you can mix the sand and
clay and get a great mix.
You then add water until the 'green sand' starts forming in sheets.
A compression test at this point reveals good detail and a clean
break. But using the carver for reconditioning is a different story...
too
much clumping and stalling...

Are you screening your sand to break up the big chunks ? 1/4" hardware
cloth on a frame similar to a deep flask works very well for this . Also ,
I've found that if I mix my sand up in the bucket , chunks and all , then
come back later after the moisture has had time to equalize a bit that the
chunks are lots easier to break up . Of course if you're doing a lot of
casting you'll need a lot of sand ...

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !