RogerN wrote:
Went to my building full of stuff and brought my Century MIG welder home.
It is Century item number 83145. 130A @30% duty cycle, 145A max @20% duty
cycle. Primary 230VAC, 22A, I have sufficient 230V in the area, just need
to make a plug adapter/extension cord.

According to the front panel it is supposed to be able to go as low as 24Ga
steel. I haven't found the owners manual PDF online but I should have it
around here somewhere! :-) I was able to find a PDF exploded parts view of
it though.

http://www.centuryweldingparts.com/d...9,%2083145.pdf

I plan to get a bottle of argon/co2 mix tomorrow and connections so I can
plug it in to power. I'll give it a try on auto body and see how it does.
It has pots for amp and wire feed, not stepped adjustments, I don't see why
it wouldn't work OK.

RogerN



I have almost that same Century unit in a 110 model (Mine is a 135) Does
VERY good sheet metal welds down to 24-26 gauge. It has been used a LOT
and other than replacing the gun once because it got a bit HOT (guy was
welding with it and caught the carpet padding in the car on fire!!)
it has been a good machine.

My bigger units get used when the material is unique, like the high
strength alloys used in some autos today. Those you have to pay
attention to if you don't want a major failure. That is when having the
optional spot and stitch welding controls helps out.

Get yourself a couple copper spoons as well. They can be used on thin
steel to keep from burning through.

--
Steve W.

"Ignoramus3594" wrote in message
...
On 2010-07-18, RogerN wrote:
Also, instead of a bottle of Argon and a bottle of mix, I'm wondering how
hard it would be to set up with CO2 and Argon to select Argon, CO2, or
mix.
I could use straight CO2 for normal steel MIG, Mix for auto body, and
straight Argon for aluminum or TIG.

Let us know what you find out about it.

This idea came from a book IIRC, perhaps Forney welding manual. Their idea
was that CO2 was considerably cheaper than Argon and a shop could save money
by mixing their own. I like the idea that I would have all the gasses I
need for my purposes, MIG and TIG, in general, Argon, CO2, and mix.

RogerN

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 05:31:17 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:


snip

It looks like today's Century welders are made by Lincoln. The Lincoln
sounds great, the current model I'm finding is a SP140T, do you know if
one
of those are suitable for auto body like I want? Currently I plan to get
a
bottle of Gas and some sheet metal and start practicing with the Century
and
looking at/for a Lincoln 120V SP.


I have no personal experience with the SP140T, but it has 4 taps
rather than continuous control. The SP140C would be a better choice
for autobody.

For more on this, see
http://reviews.ebay.com/BUYING-A-MIG...:-1:LISTINGS:1

Thanks, I found a Power Mig 140C but all the SP's I saw were "T" models.

I got power to my Century and burnt some flux core rod on some scrap iron.

I went by a welding supply and picked up an 80 CuFt tank of mix, I have a
new 2lb spool of .023 wire.

I plan to cut up some sheet metal and practice welding with my Century, then
see if the local Lincoln dealers has a demonstrator so I can compare.

I guess if I would ultimately like is a 120V mig for auto body and light
work, and a 230V 200+ amp for heavier welding and aluminum with a spool gun.

RogerN

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
RogerN wrote:
Went to my building full of stuff and brought my Century MIG welder home.
It is Century item number 83145. 130A @30% duty cycle, 145A max @20%
duty
cycle. Primary 230VAC, 22A, I have sufficient 230V in the area, just
need
to make a plug adapter/extension cord.

According to the front panel it is supposed to be able to go as low as
24Ga
steel. I haven't found the owners manual PDF online but I should have it
around here somewhere! :-) I was able to find a PDF exploded parts view
of
it though.

http://www.centuryweldingparts.com/d...9,%2083145.pdf

I plan to get a bottle of argon/co2 mix tomorrow and connections so I can
plug it in to power. I'll give it a try on auto body and see how it
does.
It has pots for amp and wire feed, not stepped adjustments, I don't see
why
it wouldn't work OK.

RogerN



I have almost that same Century unit in a 110 model (Mine is a 135) Does
VERY good sheet metal welds down to 24-26 gauge. It has been used a LOT
and other than replacing the gun once because it got a bit HOT (guy was
welding with it and caught the carpet padding in the car on fire!!)
it has been a good machine.

My bigger units get used when the material is unique, like the high
strength alloys used in some autos today. Those you have to pay
attention to if you don't want a major failure. That is when having the
optional spot and stitch welding controls helps out.

Get yourself a couple copper spoons as well. They can be used on thin
steel to keep from burning through.

--
Steve W.

Thanks, it's encouraging to hear my welder may be sufficient for the auto
body welding. I'll have to get some sheet metal to cut up and practice
welding on.

RogerN

"RogerN" wrote in message
m...

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 05:31:17 -0500, "RogerN"
wrote:


snip

It looks like today's Century welders are made by Lincoln. The Lincoln
sounds great, the current model I'm finding is a SP140T, do you know if
one
of those are suitable for auto body like I want? Currently I plan to get
a
bottle of Gas and some sheet metal and start practicing with the Century
and
looking at/for a Lincoln 120V SP.


I have no personal experience with the SP140T, but it has 4 taps
rather than continuous control. The SP140C would be a better choice
for autobody.

For more on this, see
http://reviews.ebay.com/BUYING-A-MIG...:-1:LISTINGS:1

Thanks, I found a Power Mig 140C but all the SP's I saw were "T" models.

I got power to my Century and burnt some flux core rod on some scrap iron.

I went by a welding supply and picked up an 80 CuFt tank of mix, I have a
new 2lb spool of .023 wire.

I plan to cut up some sheet metal and practice welding with my Century,
then see if the local Lincoln dealers has a demonstrator so I can compare.

I guess if I would ultimately like is a 120V mig for auto body and light
work, and a 230V 200+ amp for heavier welding and aluminum with a spool
gun.

RogerN

Try some .030" wire, too.

And no, for heavy welding, you use 7018.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

"RogerN" wrote

Thanks, it's encouraging to hear my welder may be sufficient for the auto
body welding. I'll have to get some sheet metal to cut up and practice
welding on.

RogerN

Remember that there can be differences between cars and years. Keep a
notebook, and you'll have fewer burnthroughs when you are getting dialed in.
Practice on what you are going to weld. Don't go get sheet metal if you're
going to weld on cars. Go get some car pieces.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"RogerN" wrote

Thanks, it's encouraging to hear my welder may be sufficient for the auto
body welding. I'll have to get some sheet metal to cut up and practice
welding on.

RogerN

Remember that there can be differences between cars and years. Keep a
notebook, and you'll have fewer burnthroughs when you are getting dialed
in. Practice on what you are going to weld. Don't go get sheet metal if
you're going to weld on cars. Go get some car pieces.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com


Actually I plan to weld some sheet metal to car pieces so the body filler
has a solid foundation. I would like to be able to form sheet metal but
there seems to be no end of money you can spend on this, shrinker,
stretcher, plannishing hammer, English wheels, shot bags, hammers....

Does the junk yards sell car sheet metal cheap? Maybe a damaged panel or
something?

I found some rust repair panels for my truck but I don't want to use $40
fender flares for practice scrap. I guess after fitting them I would have
some scrap cut out of my truck body that I could practice on.

RogerN

On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 23:02:55 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


"Steve W." wrote in message
...
RogerN wrote:
Went to my building full of stuff and brought my Century MIG welder home.
It is Century item number 83145. 130A @30% duty cycle, 145A max @20%
duty
cycle. Primary 230VAC, 22A, I have sufficient 230V in the area, just
need
to make a plug adapter/extension cord.

According to the front panel it is supposed to be able to go as low as
24Ga
steel. I haven't found the owners manual PDF online but I should have it
around here somewhere! :-) I was able to find a PDF exploded parts view
of
it though.

http://www.centuryweldingparts.com/d...9,%2083145.pdf

I plan to get a bottle of argon/co2 mix tomorrow and connections so I can
plug it in to power. I'll give it a try on auto body and see how it
does.
It has pots for amp and wire feed, not stepped adjustments, I don't see
why
it wouldn't work OK.

RogerN



I have almost that same Century unit in a 110 model (Mine is a 135) Does
VERY good sheet metal welds down to 24-26 gauge. It has been used a LOT
and other than replacing the gun once because it got a bit HOT (guy was
welding with it and caught the carpet padding in the car on fire!!)
it has been a good machine.

My bigger units get used when the material is unique, like the high
strength alloys used in some autos today. Those you have to pay
attention to if you don't want a major failure. That is when having the
optional spot and stitch welding controls helps out.

Get yourself a couple copper spoons as well. They can be used on thin
steel to keep from burning through.

--
Steve W.

Thanks, it's encouraging to hear my welder may be sufficient for the auto
body welding. I'll have to get some sheet metal to cut up and practice
welding on.

RogerN

Just remember that most of the sheet metal you will find, is heavily
galvanized and has to be cleaned of it before welding...

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 23:27:29 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"RogerN" wrote

Thanks, it's encouraging to hear my welder may be sufficient for the auto
body welding. I'll have to get some sheet metal to cut up and practice
welding on.

RogerN

Remember that there can be differences between cars and years. Keep a
notebook, and you'll have fewer burnthroughs when you are getting dialed in.
Practice on what you are going to weld. Don't go get sheet metal if you're
going to weld on cars. Go get some car pieces.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Rust work sometimes entails welding in available sheet metal to an
autobody skin. I used up an entire water heater skin that way, no
single patch being more than a few square inches.

"RogerN" wrote


Does the junk yards sell car sheet metal cheap? Maybe a damaged panel or
something?

I found some rust repair panels for my truck but I don't want to use $40
fender flares for practice scrap. I guess after fitting them I would have
some scrap cut out of my truck body that I could practice on.

RogerN

I'd say that they would sell you a bunch of it for $20, and then laugh at
you as you drove away. You might even get some of those smaller pieces from
a shredder, making it easier. But no, don't go buy a good door and cut it
up.

Put on your scrounge hat, man!

I like that American Pickers program, but I think there is a need for
"Dumpster Divers" or "American Scroungers" or "Yard Sale Junkies".

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Don Foreman wrote:
On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 23:27:29 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

"RogerN" wrote

Thanks, it's encouraging to hear my welder may be sufficient for the auto
body welding. I'll have to get some sheet metal to cut up and practice
welding on.

RogerN
Remember that there can be differences between cars and years. Keep a
notebook, and you'll have fewer burnthroughs when you are getting dialed in.
Practice on what you are going to weld. Don't go get sheet metal if you're
going to weld on cars. Go get some car pieces.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Rust work sometimes entails welding in available sheet metal to an
autobody skin. I used up an entire water heater skin that way, no
single patch being more than a few square inches.


Patch panels and complete panels for a LOT of vehicles.

http://www.millsupply.com/

--
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote

Patch panels and complete panels for a LOT of vehicles.

http://www.millsupply.com/

--
Steve W.

Wow. That makes it almost TOO easy, but man, the finished job would be
great. Particularly for cancerous floor pans.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Tue, 20 Jul 2010 21:36:08 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 23:27:29 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

"RogerN" wrote

Thanks, it's encouraging to hear my welder may be sufficient for the auto
body welding. I'll have to get some sheet metal to cut up and practice
welding on.

RogerN
Remember that there can be differences between cars and years. Keep a
notebook, and you'll have fewer burnthroughs when you are getting dialed in.
Practice on what you are going to weld. Don't go get sheet metal if you're
going to weld on cars. Go get some car pieces.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Rust work sometimes entails welding in available sheet metal to an
autobody skin. I used up an entire water heater skin that way, no
single patch being more than a few square inches.


Patch panels and complete panels for a LOT of vehicles.

http://www.millsupply.com/

I used a lot of their stuff with good results. But don't forget to
check price on OEM panels too. It can be surprising at times. At the
time, a hood for a '75 Chevy pickup/blazer/suburban was only slightly
more from a GMC dealer (with professional discount) than from Mill
Supply including shipping, and the OEM hood actually fit first try.

I found this Eastwood welder that looks like a clone of a Lincoln, they have
a video comparing with the Lincoln, kind of looks to me like the Lincoln had
better penetration from looking at the back side.

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html

RogerN

On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 05:48:41 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


I found this Eastwood welder that looks like a clone of a Lincoln, they have
a video comparing with the Lincoln, kind of looks to me like the Lincoln had
better penetration from looking at the back side.

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html

RogerN


Its a Lincoln..IE... Lincoln doesnt make a lot of their low end
welders..they are made overseas. Shrug

So much for their comparison...lol.

Based on the model..the Eastwood is the same as the Lincoln 140c

I will say that the price of the Eastwood is a hell of a lot better
though.
$299 vrs $661 (ebay)




Gunner


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 05:48:41 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


I found this Eastwood welder that looks like a clone of a Lincoln, they
have
a video comparing with the Lincoln, kind of looks to me like the Lincoln
had
better penetration from looking at the back side.

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html

RogerN


Its a Lincoln..IE... Lincoln doesnt make a lot of their low end
welders..they are made overseas. Shrug

So much for their comparison...lol.

Based on the model..the Eastwood is the same as the Lincoln 140c

I will say that the price of the Eastwood is a hell of a lot better
though.
$299 vrs $661 (ebay)




Gunner


I wasn't sure if it was a Lincoln by another name or a Lincoln clone. I
thought the continuous voltage adjustment sounded good. I saw a comparison
between the Lincoln and Miller (by Lincoln) and they showed a higher quality
wire drive motor, etc. I wonder if the Eastwood is the same or just a look
alike? If it's the same quality as the actual Lincoln I would be interested
just for the convenience of a 120V welder versus my 240V Century welder.

I'm all ready to start practice welding this weekend if weather permits.

RogerN

On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 21:47:06 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 05:48:41 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


I found this Eastwood welder that looks like a clone of a Lincoln, they
have
a video comparing with the Lincoln, kind of looks to me like the Lincoln
had
better penetration from looking at the back side.

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html

RogerN


Its a Lincoln..IE... Lincoln doesnt make a lot of their low end
welders..they are made overseas. Shrug

So much for their comparison...lol.

Based on the model..the Eastwood is the same as the Lincoln 140c

I will say that the price of the Eastwood is a hell of a lot better
though.
$299 vrs $661 (ebay)




Gunner


I wasn't sure if it was a Lincoln by another name or a Lincoln clone. I
thought the continuous voltage adjustment sounded good. I saw a comparison
between the Lincoln and Miller (by Lincoln) and they showed a higher quality
wire drive motor, etc. I wonder if the Eastwood is the same or just a look
alike? If it's the same quality as the actual Lincoln I would be interested
just for the convenience of a 120V welder versus my 240V Century welder.

I'm all ready to start practice welding this weekend if weather permits.

RogerN

Weather permits???? What...are you some sort of pussy or something????

Weather???? Jeeeze dude! Unless your in the middle of a ****ing flood
and you cant make your extension cord float (try some 2x4s under the
connectors)......shaking head....weather....damnit..and I thought Id
heard ever lame excuse ever spewed....sigh.....

G

Remember..if you have a problem that you cant figure out..run straight
to the computer and post what the problem is and post it.

Someone will respond with the solution..or a bunch of solutions pretty
quickly.

Not me however..Ill be at a party tomorrow..big pool, lots of fun
people...great food....might even be below 104F....yippeee!!!!


Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 21:47:06 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 05:48:41 -0500, "RogerN" wrote:


I found this Eastwood welder that looks like a clone of a Lincoln, they
have
a video comparing with the Lincoln, kind of looks to me like the Lincoln
had
better penetration from looking at the back side.

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html

RogerN


Its a Lincoln..IE... Lincoln doesnt make a lot of their low end
welders..they are made overseas. Shrug

So much for their comparison...lol.

Based on the model..the Eastwood is the same as the Lincoln 140c

I will say that the price of the Eastwood is a hell of a lot better
though.
$299 vrs $661 (ebay)




Gunner


I wasn't sure if it was a Lincoln by another name or a Lincoln clone. I
thought the continuous voltage adjustment sounded good. I saw a
comparison
between the Lincoln and Miller (by Lincoln) and they showed a higher
quality
wire drive motor, etc. I wonder if the Eastwood is the same or just a
look
alike? If it's the same quality as the actual Lincoln I would be
interested
just for the convenience of a 120V welder versus my 240V Century welder.

I'm all ready to start practice welding this weekend if weather permits.

RogerN

Weather permits???? What...are you some sort of pussy or something????

Weather???? Jeeeze dude! Unless your in the middle of a ****ing flood
and you cant make your extension cord float (try some 2x4s under the
connectors)......shaking head....weather....damnit..and I thought Id
heard ever lame excuse ever spewed....sigh.....

G

I don't care much for playing with 240V equipment in the rain, would prefer
not to drag the welder outside in the rain. And then they claim that a
little wind outdoors isn't good for MIG because of shielding gas. If there
is too much wind to weld outside I can always make patch panels for the
other rusty areas and save the welding for a calm evening.

I would love to get a shop building when I can afford it but I resent paying
increased property taxes. I spend money that I already paid taxes on to
improve something, they raise the value of my house and tax me on it every
year! I was thinking about one of those carport things and maybe a shipping
container on prehaps 3 sides, the carport might be good for painting and
welding, things that need good ventalation and I could use the shipping
containers for machinery.

I'm still trying to figure out why you need a bullet mold. Can't you just
take a sip of molten lead and spit a few 41 cal's out? The sizing die
should take of minor imperfections! We could get Cliff to make some but I'm
not sure if blow molding makes good bullets. :-)


Remember..if you have a problem that you cant figure out..run straight
to the computer and post what the problem is and post it.

Someone will respond with the solution..or a bunch of solutions pretty
quickly.

Not me however..Ill be at a party tomorrow..big pool, lots of fun
people...great food....might even be below 104F....yippeee!!!!


Gunner

Looking over the Eastwood welder and the Lincoln welders, I'm wondering if
the Eastwood 135 is the same as the Lincoln SP135 plus that Lincoln no
longer sells.

RogerN