What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier? What would be the advantage of using a
70XXX rod if the stregth of the surrounding metal is less than that?

Why not use a 6011 or other 60 series rod that is less susceptable to
moisture??

In article , stryped wrote:
What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...
http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

On Jun 16, 5:44*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , stryped wrote:

What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Heh, you haven't met stryped before?

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article
,
stryped wrote:
What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy
angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...
http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Now that was pretty good, Doug! ;)) heh heh ....

In article , cavedweller wrote:
On Jun 16, 5:44=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
..com, stryped wrote:

What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Heh, you haven't met stryped before?

I think it's fairly evident that I *have*.

On Jun 16, 7:23*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , cavedweller wrote:

On Jun 16, 5:44=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
..com, stryped wrote:

What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Heh, you haven't met stryped before?

I think it's fairly evident that I *have*.

He isn't the only reader, though.

The welding heat will remove any extra hardness it might have from
cold rolling. 6xxx rods oughta work fine, mild steel is about 3xxx,
but the best way to know is to make up some sample butt joint welds
and bend them over double or until they break. If your weld is
stronger than the steel around it what more can you ask?

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:44:03 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , stryped wrote:
What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...
http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Hey..that was Great! Ive never seen that before!

****ing cool!

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Jun 17, 4:34*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:44:03 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , stryped wrote:
What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...
http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Hey..that was Great! *Ive never seen that before!

****ing cool!

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Gunner Asch

I did google first but got confused. There is listed "tensile stregth"
and there is listed "yield strength". Not sure what the difference is.

Also one gave a range of 38,000 to 70,000 for mild steel. That is a
wide range!

On Jun 16, 6:52*pm, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Jun 16, 7:23*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article , cavedweller wrote:

On Jun 16, 5:44=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
..com, stryped wrote:

What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Heh, you haven't met stryped before?

I think it's fairly evident that I *have*.

He isn't the only reader, though.

The welding heat will remove any extra hardness it might have from
cold rolling. *6xxx rods oughta work fine, mild steel is about 3xxx,
but the best way to know is to make up some sample butt joint welds
and bend them over double or until they break. If your weld is
stronger than the steel around it what more can you ask?

So even if it is critical like on a trailer frame, 6011 should be
fine? I can weld best with it. People who are good at welding think it
is junk and anyone who welds with anythign less than 7018 is stupid...

stryped wrote:

On Jun 17, 4:34 am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:44:03 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , stryped wrote:
What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...
http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Hey..that was Great! Ive never seen that before!

****ing cool!

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

I did google first but got confused. There is listed "tensile stregth"
and there is listed "yield strength". Not sure what the difference is.

Also one gave a range of 38,000 to 70,000 for mild steel. That is a
wide range!


That's not even 3 dB.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

On Jun 17, 7:48*am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
stryped wrote:

On Jun 17, 4:34 am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:44:03 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , stryped wrote:
What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...
http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Hey..that was Great! *Ive never seen that before!

****ing cool!

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Gunner Asch

I did google first but got confused. There is listed "tensile stregth"
and there is listed "yield strength". Not sure what the difference is.

Also one gave a range of 38,000 to 70,000 for mild steel. That is a
wide range!

* *That's not even 3 dB.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

decibals????

On Jun 17, 8:54*am, stryped wrote:
On Jun 17, 7:48*am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:





stryped wrote:

On Jun 17, 4:34 am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:44:03 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , stryped wrote:
What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...
http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Hey..that was Great! *Ive never seen that before!

****ing cool!

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Gunner Asch

I did google first but got confused. There is listed "tensile stregth"
and there is listed "yield strength". Not sure what the difference is..

Also one gave a range of 38,000 to 70,000 for mild steel. That is a
wide range!

* *That's not even 3 dB.

decibals????

3dB is a 2:1 ratio. It's a common accuracy spec for radio stuff where
signal level variations are huge, and jokingly misused elsewhere like
for prices.

Just make some trial welds on the steel you are using and test them to
destruction. There is no cheap and simple way to measure the strength
of a piece of scrap or hardware store steel so assume the low value.

jsw

On Jun 17, 9:29*am, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Jun 17, 8:54*am, stryped wrote:





On Jun 17, 7:48*am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

stryped wrote:

On Jun 17, 4:34 am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:44:03 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , stryped wrote:
What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...
http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Hey..that was Great! *Ive never seen that before!

****ing cool!

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Gunner Asch

I did google first but got confused. There is listed "tensile stregth"
and there is listed "yield strength". Not sure what the difference is.

Also one gave a range of 38,000 to 70,000 for mild steel. That is a
wide range!

* *That's not even 3 dB.

decibals????

3dB is a 2:1 ratio. It's a common accuracy spec for radio stuff where
signal level variations are huge, and jokingly misused elsewhere like
for prices.

Just make some trial welds on the steel you are using and test them to
destruction. There is no cheap and simple way to measure the strength
of a piece of scrap or hardware store steel so assume the low value.

jsw- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What is the cheapest thway to test welds without having to buy a bunch
of steel?

On Jun 17, 8:26*am, stryped wrote:

What is the cheapest thway to test welds without having to buy a bunch
of steel?

Theft. If there's a substitute for testing on scrap, I won't trust
it.

On Jun 17, 11:26*am, stryped wrote:
On Jun 17, 9:29*am, Jim Wilkins wrote:





On Jun 17, 8:54*am, stryped wrote:

On Jun 17, 7:48*am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

stryped wrote:

On Jun 17, 4:34 am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 21:44:03 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , stryped wrote:
What is the tensile strenght of regular mild steel you buy angle and
such at local metal supplier?

This explains it pretty well...
http://tinyurl.com/3ykde8p

Hey..that was Great! *Ive never seen that before!

****ing cool!

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Gunner Asch

I did google first but got confused. There is listed "tensile stregth"
and there is listed "yield strength". Not sure what the difference is.

Also one gave a range of 38,000 to 70,000 for mild steel. That is a
wide range!

* *That's not even 3 dB.

decibals????

3dB is a 2:1 ratio. It's a common accuracy spec for radio stuff where
signal level variations are huge, and jokingly misused elsewhere like
for prices.

Just make some trial welds on the steel you are using and test them to
destruction. There is no cheap and simple way to measure the strength
of a piece of scrap or hardware store steel so assume the low value.

jsw- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What is the cheapest thway to test welds without having to buy a bunch
of steel?

You don't need a lot of steel, just two bars or angles. Butt them end
to end and weld the joint between them, one leg only if it's angle.
Then bend the weld. A hydraulic press is best if you have one but I've
wedged one piece between two trees and tugged on the other.

The steel should bend right beside the weld, where the heat has
annealed and softened it. A weak weld may crack down the middle
instead. The worst case is a partial penetration weld on one side
only. Try it to see how weak it is. For that you bend it toward the
weld, with the unwelded side out.

When you've bent it far enough, hammer or press the bend double if you
can. To repeat saw off the weld outside the discolored area. You lose
only an inch or so each time.

In class I had to make my test welds with 7018 survive a 50 ton press.
I wasn't ready to weld the tractor frame until the final week.

jsw

On Thu, 17 Jun 2010 04:57:46 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:


So even if it is critical like on a trailer frame, 6011 should be
fine? I can weld best with it. People who are good at welding think it
is junk and anyone who welds with anythign less than 7018 is stupid...

If you look in a welding reference -- the Lincoln Procedure Handbook
is a good inexpensive one -- you'll find plenty of pre-qualified welds
using 6011 or 6010 that meet code and commercial quality standards, as
long as the base metal has good weldability. Ignore anyone who tells
you 6011 is junk. If you're welding plain low carbon steels, use 6011
if that's what you're most comfortable with.

Plain structural steel is A36, square and rectangular tube is usually
A500, and 1018 is the most common alloy for cold finished bars. Stick
to those materials and don't bother with 7018.

--
Ned Simmons

On 2010-06-18, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jun 2010 04:57:46 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:


So even if it is critical like on a trailer frame, 6011 should be
fine? I can weld best with it. People who are good at welding think it
is junk and anyone who welds with anythign less than 7018 is stupid...

If you look in a welding reference -- the Lincoln Procedure Handbook
is a good inexpensive one -- you'll find plenty of pre-qualified welds
using 6011 or 6010 that meet code and commercial quality standards, as
long as the base metal has good weldability. Ignore anyone who tells
you 6011 is junk. If you're welding plain low carbon steels, use 6011
if that's what you're most comfortable with.

Ned, when I tried to use 6011, I had an awful amount of spatter near
the welds. Any idea what cuold I do to prevent it (not counting the
antispatter spray).

Plain structural steel is A36, square and rectangular tube is usually
A500, and 1018 is the most common alloy for cold finished bars. Stick
to those materials and don't bother with 7018.

On Thu, 17 Jun 2010 23:01:13 -0500, Ignoramus24975
wrote:

On 2010-06-18, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jun 2010 04:57:46 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:


So even if it is critical like on a trailer frame, 6011 should be
fine? I can weld best with it. People who are good at welding think it
is junk and anyone who welds with anythign less than 7018 is stupid...

If you look in a welding reference -- the Lincoln Procedure Handbook
is a good inexpensive one -- you'll find plenty of pre-qualified welds
using 6011 or 6010 that meet code and commercial quality standards, as
long as the base metal has good weldability. Ignore anyone who tells
you 6011 is junk. If you're welding plain low carbon steels, use 6011
if that's what you're most comfortable with.

Ned, when I tried to use 6011, I had an awful amount of spatter near
the welds. Any idea what cuold I do to prevent it (not counting the
antispatter spray).

Like 6010...6011 does spatter. However..if your power settings are
correct and you are keeping the tip submerged in the puddle...it
shouldnt be all that bad.

Often times folks run rods way too hot and get all sorts of problems,
spatter being one of the biggest.





Plain structural steel is A36, square and rectangular tube is usually
A500, and 1018 is the most common alloy for cold finished bars. Stick
to those materials and don't bother with 7018.


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Thu, 17 Jun 2010 23:01:13 -0500, Ignoramus24975
wrote:


Ned, when I tried to use 6011, I had an awful amount of spatter near
the welds. Any idea what cuold I do to prevent it (not counting the
antispatter spray).

If you have a DC welder, try some 6010 instead, or try your 6011 on DC
electrode positive. I've been welding a bunch of heavy 1018 cold
rolled recently using Lincoln 5P+ (6010) and any spatter I do get
falls off with a quick swipe of a cup brush.

--
Ned Simmons