Hi,

Some time ago, on ebay, I bought a new air compressor pump like the
one shown he

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498

Although the pump has now been discontinued the site shows the
technical specs for it.

In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".

According to the grainger site the outlet is the 3/8" hole. I have a
couple of other compressors and they have a single outlet hole and it
appears to be larger size.

Can somebody help me understand what both these outlets (assuming
they're both outlets) are for? I originally hoped the compressor
would provide enough air to supply a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma cutter.
It looks like it is not capable of doing that. Nevertheless, I would
like to assemble a small portable, light weight compressor with it. I
have a lightweight portable, but the buzzing noise drives me crazy.

If somebody could point me to a schematic of the necessary safety
components I will appreciate it.

Thanks,

V

On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 19:37:57 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

Hi,

Some time ago, on ebay, I bought a new air compressor pump like the
one shown he

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498

Although the pump has now been discontinued the site shows the
technical specs for it.

In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".

According to the grainger site the outlet is the 3/8" hole. I have a
couple of other compressors and they have a single outlet hole and it
appears to be larger size.

Can somebody help me understand what both these outlets (assuming
they're both outlets) are for? I originally hoped the compressor
would provide enough air to supply a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma cutter.
It looks like it is not capable of doing that. Nevertheless, I would
like to assemble a small portable, light weight compressor with it. I
have a lightweight portable, but the buzzing noise drives me crazy.

If somebody could point me to a schematic of the necessary safety
components I will appreciate it.

Thanks,

V
Turn ot over by hand and put tyour finger over the holes. See which
one blows and which one draws. The inlet MUST be larger than the
outlet. For a 2.5 cfm compressor 3/8" outlet does not sound terribly
small. Some have 2 outlets - one for the air to the tank and one to
the unloader - so that's a possibility too. (then it would have a
built-in air intake filter/silencer)

Vernon wrote:
Hi,

Some time ago, on ebay, I bought a new air compressor pump like the
one shown he

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498

Although the pump has now been discontinued the site shows the
technical specs for it.

In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".

According to the grainger site the outlet is the 3/8" hole. I have a
couple of other compressors and they have a single outlet hole and it
appears to be larger size.

Can somebody help me understand what both these outlets (assuming
they're both outlets) are for? I originally hoped the compressor
would provide enough air to supply a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma cutter.
It looks like it is not capable of doing that. Nevertheless, I would
like to assemble a small portable, light weight compressor with it. I
have a lightweight portable, but the buzzing noise drives me crazy.

If somebody could point me to a schematic of the necessary safety
components I will appreciate it.

Thanks,

V

One hole is an inlet the other the compressed air outlet.

That unit looks a lot like the ones used on many of the old milk cooler
units.

--
Steve W.
(\___/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Jun 15, 10:37*pm, Vernon wrote:
Hi,
...
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498
...
In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. *One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".
...
V

[runs downstairs to take a look]

I have a plug in the small hole and the outlet tee in the larger one.
One leg of the tee has a water heater pressure relief, the other goes
to a Load Genie check plus relief valve and then the tank. I think the
smaller hole might be for an unloader piped to the pressure switch,
but that compressor's pressure switch was meant for a well and doesn't
have the air valve. Northern sells switches that do, I installed one
on the salvaged/rebuilt Husky air compressor which has a plain check
valve leading into the tank.

The Load Genie jams if the inlet tube isn't well aligned. It doesn't
leak between uses, unlike the pressure relief plumbing on the Husky

I put a 1/2 HP motor with a 3.5" pulley on mine and set the limit to
around 80PSI. That seems a good compromise between enough volume and
enough pressure for inflating tires and cleaning carburetors etc. It
is NOT enough to run the plasma cutter and cost me burned-up
consumables when I tried. It's marginal for air tools but most of my
weld grinders are electric.

It is however enough to sand-blast a whole bumper with a pressure-
feed, canister gun from Sears (long ago) if I connect a larger tank to
even out the pressure variations while I'm refilling the gun.

I bought the vacuum head attachment and installed it with a street
elbow in the inlet hole, facing down to help exclude dirt. I pulled it
off coincidentally this morning to clean the filter after 5 years. The
filter was barely discolored and the small amount of sawdust or
whatever that was sucked in had stuck to the inside wall opposite the
street elbow.

jsw

On 2010-06-16, Vernon wrote:
Hi,

Some time ago, on ebay, I bought a new air compressor pump like the
one shown he

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498

Although the pump has now been discontinued the site shows the
technical specs for it.

In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".

According to the grainger site the outlet is the 3/8" hole. I have a
couple of other compressors and they have a single outlet hole and it
appears to be larger size.

Can somebody help me understand what both these outlets (assuming
they're both outlets) are for?

If there is no foam rubber intake filter on top of the head, I
suspect that the larger hole is for an intake filter cartridge to screw
into. You need a larger diameter at a lower pressure to move the same
amount of air.

I originally hoped the compressor
would provide enough air to supply a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma cutter.
It looks like it is not capable of doing that. Nevertheless, I would
like to assemble a small portable, light weight compressor with it. I
have a lightweight portable, but the buzzing noise drives me crazy.

:-)

What about a tank? You'll need that to make for reasonably
stable airflow instead of a train of pulses as the piston moves up. One
of those, a motor (1 HP to 1-1/2 HP according to the web page),
compressor itself, a belt and pulley (the flywheel will be the other
pulley I suspect). Hmm the web page mentions the flywheel in the
description, but it does not show in the photo -- do you have a flywheel
with yours?

Anyway, you'll probably want some wheels and a stand to make it
easy to move with all of that. But it will be quiet relative to the
buzz box which you have.

If somebody could point me to a schematic of the necessary safety
components I will appreciate it.

Well ... you'll need a regulator, a pressure relief valve (sized
mostly by the specs for the tank -- but not much more than 125 PSI for a
single stage. And -- you will need a pressure operated switch to start
and stop the motor -- and to vent the line between the compressor output
and the tank input so the motor does not have to fight back pressure to
start. The tank should be ASME rated for more than the pressure which
you expect to develop.

By the time you are through, you will have something quite
similar to the old Craftsman one which I picked up at an estate sale a
few years ago. I forget the actual airflow rating, but I think that it
is a bit more than this pump is rated for.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Jun 16, 12:23*am, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-06-16, Vernon wrote:

* * * * If there is no foam rubber intake filter on top of the head, I
suspect that the larger hole is for an intake filter cartridge to screw
into. *You need a larger diameter at a lower pressure to move the same
amount of air.

The air intake on my 2Z498 is the felt-filled rectangular opening in
the top center of the head.

* * * * What about a tank? *You'll need that to make for reasonably
stable airflow instead of a train of pulses as the piston moves up. *....
* * * * * * * * DoN.

I mounted it on a 12 gallon tank with 2 wheels, 2 feet and a handle
from Grainger. Larger or smaller would work too, but 12 gallons has
been a good size. While the tank was open I rinsed it with LPS-3 to
keep down the rust. 35 years later the drained water is still white
(dissolved air), not rusty.

I added an extra air outlet upstream of the regulator and use it more
often than the regulated one.

Don't forget to make a belt guard.

jsw

On Jun 15, 11:23*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-06-16, Vernon wrote:





Hi,

Some time ago, on ebay, I bought a new air compressor pump like the
one shown he

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498

Although the pump has now been discontinued the site shows the
technical specs for it.

In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. *One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".

According to the grainger site the outlet is the 3/8" hole. *I have a
couple of other compressors and they have a single outlet hole and it
appears to be larger size.

Can somebody help me understand what both these outlets (assuming
they're both outlets) are for?

* * * * If there is no foam rubber intake filter on top of the head, I
suspect that the larger hole is for an intake filter cartridge to screw
into. *You need a larger diameter at a lower pressure to move the same
amount of air.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * I originally hoped the compressor
would provide enough air to supply a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma cutter.
It looks like it is not capable of doing that. *Nevertheless, I would
like to assemble a small portable, light weight compressor with it. *I
have a lightweight portable, but the buzzing noise drives me crazy.

* * * * :-)

* * * * What about a tank? *You'll need that to make for reasonably
stable airflow instead of a train of pulses as the piston moves up. *One
of those, a motor (1 HP to 1-1/2 HP according to the web page),
compressor itself, a belt and pulley (the flywheel will be the other
pulley I suspect). *Hmm the web page mentions the flywheel in the
description, but it does not show in the photo -- do you have a flywheel
with yours?

* * * * Anyway, you'll probably want some wheels and a stand to make it
easy to move with all of that. *But it will be quiet relative to the
buzz box which you have.

If somebody could point me to a schematic of the necessary safety
components I will appreciate it.

* * * * Well ... you'll need a regulator, a pressure relief valve (sized
mostly by the specs for the tank -- but not much more than 125 PSI for a
single stage. *And -- you will need a pressure operated switch to start
and stop the motor -- and to vent the line between the compressor output
and the tank input so the motor does not have to fight back pressure to
start. *The tank should be ASME rated for more than the pressure which
you expect to develop.

* * * * By the time you are through, you will have something quite
similar to the old Craftsman one which I picked up at an estate sale a
few years ago. *I forget the actual airflow rating, but I think that it
is a bit more than this pump is rated for.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Don (and everybody)

The top of the compressor head does has a little screened area. It
also has a little metal clip that I imagine is intended to hold a foam
rubber filter in place. There was some folded up newspaper in this
spot held there by the clip. The news print had nothing to do with
anything related to compressors. Therefore, I imagine that the seller
simply put the paper in there to keep debris out of it. I removed this
paper and found a piece of screen. Beneath the screen are two tiny
pistons. ITHIS is the air intake. Yes??

And this is the point of my confusion about the two holes in the side
of the head. On the advice one of you gives above I covered both of
these holes while spinning the flywheel. If I don't cover both holes
not much happens. In fact there seems to be a slight suction. But
when covering them both there is a pronounced build-up of air pressure
in both although it seems higher in the bigger hole.

What confuses me is that the technical specs on the grainger site
mention a 3/8" outlet. I should point out that my pump is a model "a"
and the model in the grainger site is a model "b". So, for all I
know, maybe that was a change between the two models.

Based on the comments y'all have made I think it is plausible that the
smaller hole goes to a genie or some kind of control mechanism.

The idea behind this project is this. I have a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma
cutter that I've never used but want to set up to be portable and cut
fish mouths in heavy wall 5.5" pipe. There is no reason I can't use
either of my other compressors to supply air. But I got this bright
idea to weld up a cart for the plasma cutter using a cheap harbor
freight dolly. The idea would be to install the cutter at the base
and mount a military surplus truck air tank longitudinally between the
handle rails and the compressor pump and a small electric motor beside
it or wherever it would seem to fit. Thus I could move it around as a
unit rather than the plasma cutter and a compressor separately.

I don't know the volume of the tank but compared to those small dual
tank compressors that carpenters use it is fairly large. I don't have
it here with me but it's probably 8 or 9" wide and perhaps 24 to 30"
long. I don't even remember what it was supposed to fit but I think
it was a Unimog military vehicle part. All I remember is I bought the
tank on ebay several years ago. It's very well made. It has 3 holes
in it. Two at one of the drum heads and the other along the middle.
I discovered that a M22-1.5 x 3/8" pressure washer fitting will work
perfectly. I will be able to plumb the output from the compressor to
an inlet on the tank. An outlet from the tank will go to the air
dryer on the plasma cutter. This leaves a hole for an air gauge,
pressure safety relief, or whatever.

Frankly, the compressor will be inadequate for the rated demand of the
plasma cutter. At full tilt (125psi) the compressor is capable of 2.9
cfm. The cutter requires 5.8 cfm at 75psi. I'm not smart enough to
calculate the output at 75psi but if it's linear I think that it might
be 4.8 cfm at 75 psi. I still haven't worked out how I'm gonna plumb
in the safety shut-off or pop-off device(s).

If it doesn't work as expected I can always use it as a paint sprayer.

V

On Jun 15, 10:58*pm, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Jun 15, 10:37*pm, Vernon wrote:

Hi,
...
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498
...
In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. *One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".
...
V

[runs downstairs to take a look]

I have a plug in the small hole and the outlet tee in the larger one.
One leg of the tee has a water heater pressure relief, the other goes
to a Load Genie check plus relief valve and then the tank. I think the
smaller hole might be for an unloader piped to the pressure switch,
but that compressor's pressure switch was meant for a well and doesn't
have the air valve. Northern sells switches that do, I installed one
on the salvaged/rebuilt Husky air compressor which has a plain check
valve leading into the tank.

The Load Genie jams if the inlet tube isn't well aligned. It doesn't
leak between uses, unlike the pressure relief plumbing on the Husky

I put a 1/2 HP motor with a 3.5" pulley on mine and set the limit to
around 80PSI. That seems a good compromise between enough volume and
enough pressure for inflating tires and cleaning carburetors etc. It
is NOT enough to run the plasma cutter and cost me burned-up
consumables when I tried. It's marginal for air tools but most of my
weld grinders are electric.

It is however enough to sand-blast a whole bumper with a pressure-
feed, canister gun from Sears (long ago) if I connect a larger tank to
even out the pressure variations while I'm refilling the gun.

I bought the vacuum head attachment and installed it with a street
elbow in the inlet hole, facing down to help exclude dirt. I pulled it
off coincidentally this morning to clean the filter after 5 years. The
filter was barely discolored and the small amount of sawdust or
whatever that was sucked in had stuck to the inside wall opposite the
street elbow.

jsw

Jim. If I'm not mistaken it was only today, and precisely the result
of me reading one of your discussions about your compressor that got
me interested in cobbling something together. I found your comments
(if indeed it was you!) by searching google for the compressor model
number. Your post was in response to somebody saying that a small
compressor was "useless in the real world" or words to that effect.

Small world.

V

I strongly discourage you from wasting your time on this undersized
head. However, it is easy to make RYO compressor. You need a motor, a
pressure switch, a tank, air intake filter, piping, and a safety valve
in the tank. The time and expense of parts will most likely make this
uneconomical. Much easier to find a used working compressor for not
too much.

i

On Jun 16, 1:16*am, Vernon wrote:
On Jun 15, 10:58*pm, Jim Wilkins wrote:





On Jun 15, 10:37*pm, Vernon wrote:

Hi,
...
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498
...
In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. *One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".
...
V

[runs downstairs to take a look]

I have a plug in the small hole and the outlet tee in the larger one.
One leg of the tee has a water heater pressure relief, the other goes
to a Load Genie check plus relief valve and then the tank. I think the
smaller hole might be for an unloader piped to the pressure switch,
but that compressor's pressure switch was meant for a well and doesn't
have the air valve. Northern sells switches that do, I installed one
on the salvaged/rebuilt Husky air compressor which has a plain check
valve leading into the tank.

The Load Genie jams if the inlet tube isn't well aligned. It doesn't
leak between uses, unlike the pressure relief plumbing on the Husky

I put a 1/2 HP motor with a 3.5" pulley on mine and set the limit to
around 80PSI. That seems a good compromise between enough volume and
enough pressure for inflating tires and cleaning carburetors etc. It
is NOT enough to run the plasma cutter and cost me burned-up
consumables when I tried. It's marginal for air tools but most of my
weld grinders are electric.

It is however enough to sand-blast a whole bumper with a pressure-
feed, canister gun from Sears (long ago) if I connect a larger tank to
even out the pressure variations while I'm refilling the gun.

I bought the vacuum head attachment and installed it with a street
elbow in the inlet hole, facing down to help exclude dirt. I pulled it
off coincidentally this morning to clean the filter after 5 years. The
filter was barely discolored and the small amount of sawdust or
whatever that was sucked in had stuck to the inside wall opposite the
street elbow.

jsw

Jim. *If I'm not mistaken it was only today, and precisely the result
of me reading one of your discussions about your compressor that got
me interested in cobbling something together. *I found your comments
(if indeed it was you!) by searching google for the compressor model
number. *Your post was in response to somebody saying that a small
compressor was "useless in the real world" or words to that effect.

Small world.

V

That's a reminder to be careful what we write.

Somewhere I saw a chart of pressure vs pulley size for the 2Z498 and a
1/2HP motor, and copied it onto the tank. The 3.5" pulley on it now is
good for 100PSI. The motor draws about its full current as the
pressure nears 100, but it doesn't overheat. You may be able to supply
the plasma cutter with a 1-1/2HP motor running that compressor, and
the largest pulley that the motor tolerates, if you set the pressure
switch to turn on just above 75PSI and off as close above that as it
will go. One spring is for set point, the other is the differential
between On and Off.

I think the Load Genie might not be the lowest restriction check valve
you could find. It needs a pressure differential to stay open. When
the motor and air flow stop the valve slides back to seal the tank and
open the line to the compressor head.

The volume vs pressure relationship falls off at some point that
depends on the dead space in the head. You really have to try
different motor pulleys and measure the current.

jsw
It's 2 AM here, goodnight

On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 19:37:57 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

Hi,

Some time ago, on ebay, I bought a new air compressor pump like the
one shown he

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498

Although the pump has now been discontinued the site shows the
technical specs for it.

In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".

According to the grainger site the outlet is the 3/8" hole. I have a
couple of other compressors and they have a single outlet hole and it
appears to be larger size.

Can somebody help me understand what both these outlets (assuming
they're both outlets) are for? I originally hoped the compressor
would provide enough air to supply a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma cutter.
It looks like it is not capable of doing that. Nevertheless, I would
like to assemble a small portable, light weight compressor with it. I
have a lightweight portable, but the buzzing noise drives me crazy.

If somebody could point me to a schematic of the necessary safety
components I will appreciate it.

Thanks,

V
At 2.9 CFM..its a rathe small compressor..and is highly unlikely to do
the job. Period. End program. Full Stop.

Now..you can put a faster motor on it...3600 RPM..and if the compressor
hold up.....it might come close to what you need. Or it will grenade
itself before long.

Small and portable in relation to a large plasma cutter..simply isnt in
the cards. Medium sized and sorta heavy..that will work.

Or get a tank of Nitrogen (hell..steal one off a telephone pole after a
hard rainy week (just kidding!) and use it. And nitrogen is really cheap

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 22:16:18 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:


I bought the vacuum head attachment and installed it with a street
elbow in the inlet hole, facing down to help exclude dirt. I pulled it
off coincidentally this morning to clean the filter after 5 years. The
filter was barely discolored and the small amount of sawdust or
whatever that was sucked in had stuck to the inside wall opposite the
street elbow.

jsw

Jim. If I'm not mistaken it was only today, and precisely the result
of me reading one of your discussions about your compressor that got
me interested in cobbling something together. I found your comments
(if indeed it was you!) by searching google for the compressor model
number. Your post was in response to somebody saying that a small
compressor was "useless in the real world" or words to that effect.

Small world.

V

Ayup..pretty much, unless your world only has a lot of air mattresses
and beach balls and really small spray rigs.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 22:09:43 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

On Jun 15, 11:23*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-06-16, Vernon wrote:





Hi,

Some time ago, on ebay, I bought a new air compressor pump like the
one shown he

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498

Although the pump has now been discontinued the site shows the
technical specs for it.

In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. *One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".

According to the grainger site the outlet is the 3/8" hole. *I have a
couple of other compressors and they have a single outlet hole and it
appears to be larger size.

Can somebody help me understand what both these outlets (assuming
they're both outlets) are for?

* * * * If there is no foam rubber intake filter on top of the head, I
suspect that the larger hole is for an intake filter cartridge to screw
into. *You need a larger diameter at a lower pressure to move the same
amount of air.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * I originally hoped the compressor
would provide enough air to supply a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma cutter.
It looks like it is not capable of doing that. *Nevertheless, I would
like to assemble a small portable, light weight compressor with it. *I
have a lightweight portable, but the buzzing noise drives me crazy.

* * * * :-)

* * * * What about a tank? *You'll need that to make for reasonably
stable airflow instead of a train of pulses as the piston moves up. *One
of those, a motor (1 HP to 1-1/2 HP according to the web page),
compressor itself, a belt and pulley (the flywheel will be the other
pulley I suspect). *Hmm the web page mentions the flywheel in the
description, but it does not show in the photo -- do you have a flywheel
with yours?

* * * * Anyway, you'll probably want some wheels and a stand to make it
easy to move with all of that. *But it will be quiet relative to the
buzz box which you have.

If somebody could point me to a schematic of the necessary safety
components I will appreciate it.

* * * * Well ... you'll need a regulator, a pressure relief valve (sized
mostly by the specs for the tank -- but not much more than 125 PSI for a
single stage. *And -- you will need a pressure operated switch to start
and stop the motor -- and to vent the line between the compressor output
and the tank input so the motor does not have to fight back pressure to
start. *The tank should be ASME rated for more than the pressure which
you expect to develop.

* * * * By the time you are through, you will have something quite
similar to the old Craftsman one which I picked up at an estate sale a
few years ago. *I forget the actual airflow rating, but I think that it
is a bit more than this pump is rated for.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Don (and everybody)

The top of the compressor head does has a little screened area. It
also has a little metal clip that I imagine is intended to hold a foam
rubber filter in place. There was some folded up newspaper in this
spot held there by the clip. The news print had nothing to do with
anything related to compressors. Therefore, I imagine that the seller
simply put the paper in there to keep debris out of it. I removed this
paper and found a piece of screen. Beneath the screen are two tiny
pistons. ITHIS is the air intake. Yes??

And this is the point of my confusion about the two holes in the side
of the head. On the advice one of you gives above I covered both of
these holes while spinning the flywheel. If I don't cover both holes
not much happens. In fact there seems to be a slight suction. But
when covering them both there is a pronounced build-up of air pressure
in both although it seems higher in the bigger hole.

What confuses me is that the technical specs on the grainger site
mention a 3/8" outlet. I should point out that my pump is a model "a"
and the model in the grainger site is a model "b". So, for all I
know, maybe that was a change between the two models.

Based on the comments y'all have made I think it is plausible that the
smaller hole goes to a genie or some kind of control mechanism.

The idea behind this project is this. I have a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma
cutter that I've never used but want to set up to be portable and cut
fish mouths in heavy wall 5.5" pipe. There is no reason I can't use
either of my other compressors to supply air. But I got this bright
idea to weld up a cart for the plasma cutter using a cheap harbor
freight dolly. The idea would be to install the cutter at the base
and mount a military surplus truck air tank longitudinally between the
handle rails and the compressor pump and a small electric motor beside
it or wherever it would seem to fit. Thus I could move it around as a
unit rather than the plasma cutter and a compressor separately.

I don't know the volume of the tank but compared to those small dual
tank compressors that carpenters use it is fairly large. I don't have
it here with me but it's probably 8 or 9" wide and perhaps 24 to 30"
long. I don't even remember what it was supposed to fit but I think
it was a Unimog military vehicle part. All I remember is I bought the
tank on ebay several years ago. It's very well made. It has 3 holes
in it. Two at one of the drum heads and the other along the middle.
I discovered that a M22-1.5 x 3/8" pressure washer fitting will work
perfectly. I will be able to plumb the output from the compressor to
an inlet on the tank. An outlet from the tank will go to the air
dryer on the plasma cutter. This leaves a hole for an air gauge,
pressure safety relief, or whatever.

Frankly, the compressor will be inadequate for the rated demand of the
plasma cutter. At full tilt (125psi) the compressor is capable of 2.9
cfm. The cutter requires 5.8 cfm at 75psi. I'm not smart enough to
calculate the output at 75psi but if it's linear I think that it might
be 4.8 cfm at 75 psi. I still haven't worked out how I'm gonna plumb
in the safety shut-off or pop-off device(s).

If it doesn't work as expected I can always use it as a paint sprayer.

V

It will work with a bigger than you would expect tank..but only for a
few minutes or so,until the tank can no longer deliver5.8cfm at 75 lbs

Ive got a Miller 2050, and cant run it off of any of my small portables.
Simply isnt enough volume in the tanks for anything other than a foot or
so of cut. And the build back up time..sheesh.

So I use it off my big compressor and have a 150' of 1/2" hose. Which
works ok..but the hose really should be bigger.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

Larry Jaques wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

Grenade is right. shudder Wouldn't a larger head be better? 18SCFM,
$149 http://fwd4.me/T5c 6.5hp gas engine, $129 http://fwd4.me/T5h
Or a cheap, used 5hp electric motor could power it nicely.

Small and portable in relation to a large plasma cutter..simply isnt in
the cards. Medium sized and sorta heavy..that will work.

Or get a tank of Nitrogen (hell..steal one off a telephone pole after a
hard rainy week (just kidding!) and use it. And nitrogen is really cheap

Nitrogen bottle on a phone pole? What's that all about?


The old, lead jacketed cable would pinhole. The bundles of wire were
wrapped in paper to protect them from the heat while the lead was
soldered along the seam, or during repairs. Water would get in the
pinholes and be adsorbed into the paper. That cause problems for the
phone lines. They would use the nitrogen bottles to pressurize the
cable to prevent water from getting in, and to use an ultrasonic sniffer
to find the pinholes.

There is very little leaded cable left in use. It was replaced by
flooded cable, filled with a gel to allow direct burial or aerial use.

I haven't seen a nitrogen bottle chained to a pole in over 20 years.
I used to see them fairly often. Sometimes two or three chained to a
single pole, when they had a major problem, or they were building out a
new section and the ports weren't sealed.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 08:38:44 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 00:42:52 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote the following:

On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 19:37:57 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

Hi,

Some time ago, on ebay, I bought a new air compressor pump like the
one shown he

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498

Although the pump has now been discontinued the site shows the
technical specs for it.

In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".

According to the grainger site the outlet is the 3/8" hole. I have a
couple of other compressors and they have a single outlet hole and it
appears to be larger size.

Can somebody help me understand what both these outlets (assuming
they're both outlets) are for? I originally hoped the compressor
would provide enough air to supply a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma cutter.
It looks like it is not capable of doing that. Nevertheless, I would
like to assemble a small portable, light weight compressor with it. I
have a lightweight portable, but the buzzing noise drives me crazy.

If somebody could point me to a schematic of the necessary safety
components I will appreciate it.

Thanks,

V
At 2.9 CFM..its a rathe small compressor..and is highly unlikely to do
the job. Period. End program. Full Stop.

Now..you can put a faster motor on it...3600 RPM..and if the compressor
hold up.....it might come close to what you need. Or it will grenade
itself before long.

Grenade is right. shudder Wouldn't a larger head be better? 18SCFM,
$149 http://fwd4.me/T5c 6.5hp gas engine, $129 http://fwd4.me/T5h
Or a cheap, used 5hp electric motor could power it nicely.


Small and portable in relation to a large plasma cutter..simply isnt in
the cards. Medium sized and sorta heavy..that will work.

Or get a tank of Nitrogen (hell..steal one off a telephone pole after a
hard rainy week (just kidding!) and use it. And nitrogen is really cheap

Nitrogen bottle on a phone pole? What's that all about?

Hummm? You have never seen the black pressure cylinders standing next
to telephone poles in your area? Thats pretty common in some places.
Generally the phone companies use them for getting rid of water in cable
splices and wet wires. They "inject" nitrogen into a cable and it
evaporates the water that has seeped in and is making a noisy
connection. We see them regularly here in the West.

http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=309530



Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:59:29 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

Grenade is right. shudder Wouldn't a larger head be better? 18SCFM,
$149 http://fwd4.me/T5c 6.5hp gas engine, $129 http://fwd4.me/T5h
Or a cheap, used 5hp electric motor could power it nicely.

Small and portable in relation to a large plasma cutter..simply isnt in
the cards. Medium sized and sorta heavy..that will work.

Or get a tank of Nitrogen (hell..steal one off a telephone pole after a
hard rainy week (just kidding!) and use it. And nitrogen is really cheap

Nitrogen bottle on a phone pole? What's that all about?


The old, lead jacketed cable would pinhole. The bundles of wire were
wrapped in paper to protect them from the heat while the lead was
soldered along the seam, or during repairs. Water would get in the
pinholes and be adsorbed into the paper. That cause problems for the
phone lines. They would use the nitrogen bottles to pressurize the
cable to prevent water from getting in, and to use an ultrasonic sniffer
to find the pinholes.

There is very little leaded cable left in use. It was replaced by
flooded cable, filled with a gel to allow direct burial or aerial use.

I haven't seen a nitrogen bottle chained to a pole in over 20 years.
I used to see them fairly often. Sometimes two or three chained to a
single pole, when they had a major problem, or they were building out a
new section and the ports weren't sealed.


Still see them here in the rural areas of California, where wire has
been hanging for many many years in wind and Heat.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:59:29 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

Grenade is right. shudder Wouldn't a larger head be better? 18SCFM,
$149 http://fwd4.me/T5c 6.5hp gas engine, $129 http://fwd4.me/T5h
Or a cheap, used 5hp electric motor could power it nicely.

Small and portable in relation to a large plasma cutter..simply isnt in
the cards. Medium sized and sorta heavy..that will work.

Or get a tank of Nitrogen (hell..steal one off a telephone pole after a
hard rainy week (just kidding!) and use it. And nitrogen is really cheap

Nitrogen bottle on a phone pole? What's that all about?


The old, lead jacketed cable would pinhole. The bundles of wire were
wrapped in paper to protect them from the heat while the lead was
soldered along the seam, or during repairs. Water would get in the
pinholes and be adsorbed into the paper. That cause problems for the
phone lines. They would use the nitrogen bottles to pressurize the
cable to prevent water from getting in, and to use an ultrasonic sniffer
to find the pinholes.

There is very little leaded cable left in use. It was replaced by
flooded cable, filled with a gel to allow direct burial or aerial use.

I haven't seen a nitrogen bottle chained to a pole in over 20 years.
I used to see them fairly often. Sometimes two or three chained to a
single pole, when they had a major problem, or they were building out a
new section and the ports weren't sealed.

Still see them here in the rural areas of California, where wire has
been hanging for many many years in wind and Heat.


They moved to mostly underground & fiber optics around here, starting
about 20 years ago. I was told it was a constant battle to seal the
pinholes, and a lot of new homes and business were being built. Since
they had to add new circuits, they just wrecked out the old stuff.


They started moving to underground copper in downtown Middletown Ohio
in the '70s. Looking at aerial maps of those areas toda show no
overhead utilities.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 19:21:08 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 09:35:51 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote the following:

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 08:38:44 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 00:42:52 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote the following:

On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 19:37:57 -0700 (PDT), Vernon
wrote:

Hi,

Some time ago, on ebay, I bought a new air compressor pump like the
one shown he

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2Z498

Although the pump has now been discontinued the site shows the
technical specs for it.

In the side of the compressor head are two threaded holes. One
appears to be 5/8" or perhaps 9/16" and the other, is 3/8".

According to the grainger site the outlet is the 3/8" hole. I have a
couple of other compressors and they have a single outlet hole and it
appears to be larger size.

Can somebody help me understand what both these outlets (assuming
they're both outlets) are for? I originally hoped the compressor
would provide enough air to supply a TD Cutmaster 51 plasma cutter.
It looks like it is not capable of doing that. Nevertheless, I would
like to assemble a small portable, light weight compressor with it. I
have a lightweight portable, but the buzzing noise drives me crazy.

If somebody could point me to a schematic of the necessary safety
components I will appreciate it.

Thanks,

V
At 2.9 CFM..its a rathe small compressor..and is highly unlikely to do
the job. Period. End program. Full Stop.

Now..you can put a faster motor on it...3600 RPM..and if the compressor
hold up.....it might come close to what you need. Or it will grenade
itself before long.

Grenade is right. shudder Wouldn't a larger head be better? 18SCFM,
$149 http://fwd4.me/T5c 6.5hp gas engine, $129 http://fwd4.me/T5h
Or a cheap, used 5hp electric motor could power it nicely.


Small and portable in relation to a large plasma cutter..simply isnt in
the cards. Medium sized and sorta heavy..that will work.

Or get a tank of Nitrogen (hell..steal one off a telephone pole after a
hard rainy week (just kidding!) and use it. And nitrogen is really cheap

Nitrogen bottle on a phone pole? What's that all about?

Hummm? You have never seen the black pressure cylinders standing next
to telephone poles in your area? Thats pretty common in some places.
Generally the phone companies use them for getting rid of water in cable
splices and wet wires. They "inject" nitrogen into a cable and it
evaporates the water that has seeped in and is making a noisy
connection. We see them regularly here in the West.

In rainy Taft, eh? bseg

Ayup..we got almost 4" last year!!


http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=309530

Nevahoiduvit 'til now, thanks.

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

In article ,
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

Grenade is right. shudder Wouldn't a larger head be better? 18SCFM,
$149 http://fwd4.me/T5c 6.5hp gas engine, $129 http://fwd4.me/T5h
Or a cheap, used 5hp electric motor could power it nicely.

Small and portable in relation to a large plasma cutter..simply isnt in
the cards. Medium sized and sorta heavy..that will work.

Or get a tank of Nitrogen (hell..steal one off a telephone pole after a
hard rainy week (just kidding!) and use it. And nitrogen is really cheap

Nitrogen bottle on a phone pole? What's that all about?


The old, lead jacketed cable would pinhole. The bundles of wire were
wrapped in paper to protect them from the heat while the lead was
soldered along the seam, or during repairs. Water would get in the
pinholes and be adsorbed into the paper. That cause problems for the
phone lines. They would use the nitrogen bottles to pressurize the
cable to prevent water from getting in, and to use an ultrasonic sniffer
to find the pinholes.

There is very little leaded cable left in use. It was replaced by
flooded cable, filled with a gel to allow direct burial or aerial use.

I haven't seen a nitrogen bottle chained to a pole in over 20 years.
I used to see them fairly often. Sometimes two or three chained to a
single pole, when they had a major problem, or they were building out a
new section and the ports weren't sealed.

I've seen nitrogen bottles in New York City as recently as May 2010. No doubt
they still have a lot of the old cable.

Joe Gwinn

Joseph Gwinn wrote:

In article ,
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

Grenade is right. shudder Wouldn't a larger head be better? 18SCFM,
$149 http://fwd4.me/T5c 6.5hp gas engine, $129 http://fwd4.me/T5h
Or a cheap, used 5hp electric motor could power it nicely.

Small and portable in relation to a large plasma cutter..simply isnt in
the cards. Medium sized and sorta heavy..that will work.

Or get a tank of Nitrogen (hell..steal one off a telephone pole after a
hard rainy week (just kidding!) and use it. And nitrogen is really cheap

Nitrogen bottle on a phone pole? What's that all about?


The old, lead jacketed cable would pinhole. The bundles of wire were
wrapped in paper to protect them from the heat while the lead was
soldered along the seam, or during repairs. Water would get in the
pinholes and be adsorbed into the paper. That cause problems for the
phone lines. They would use the nitrogen bottles to pressurize the
cable to prevent water from getting in, and to use an ultrasonic sniffer
to find the pinholes.

There is very little leaded cable left in use. It was replaced by
flooded cable, filled with a gel to allow direct burial or aerial use.

I haven't seen a nitrogen bottle chained to a pole in over 20 years.
I used to see them fairly often. Sometimes two or three chained to a
single pole, when they had a major problem, or they were building out a
new section and the ports weren't sealed.

I've seen nitrogen bottles in New York City as recently as May 2010. No doubt
they still have a lot of the old cable.


I was told that high lightning areas got more pinholes. That, and
lots of areas of Florida get enough salt to corrode exposed metals. I
talked to the Centurylink crew who is trying to track down an
intermittent in my phone service a few days ago. He said there are a
few very short runs of lead left in this service area, but they no
longer do the soldered repairs. Instead, they use the same flooded
splice housing made for plastic cables. I got the impression that they
can't wait to see those few pieces of lead go away. Some early plastic
cable wasn't flooded, and can be pressurized. from what I've been told,
they do it at the switch centers, except when a line is damaged and
can't maintain pressure.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.