As you may recall, I was unhappy with my old Clausing colchester lathe
13x36 lathe due to a lot of wear and lack of precision (0.008" on 5"
or so of a test cut).

This is my new lathe

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/

This is a 13x48 Clausing 5913 lathe.

I bought it this morning.

The lathe is also rather dirty, but unlike my current one, the bed
looked a lot better and did not have any scratches or gouges nearly as
big as on my current lathe.

Having learned at least something, this time I ran a test by turning
down a piece of pipe. The cut was 8" long. The not so careful
measurement of the resulting thickness, with an analog caliper, showed
the diameter being within 1-2 thousandths of an inch, throughout. The
measurement was not very careful (though I tried) and the cutter was
not great either.

The lathe includes 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a bunch of tailstock tooling,
some cutters and many drill bits.

According to the seller, he bought it years ago from its original
owner, who did not use it for production purposes. (you never know if
that sort of thing is true). The seller did not use it for production
either, he has a plumbing company.

The price was $500.

The old lathe is now for sale. Here it is.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-Master-Lathe/

i

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 09:44:25 -0600, Ignoramus20205 wrote:

As you may recall, I was unhappy with my old Clausing colchester lathe
13x36 lathe due to a lot of wear and lack of precision (0.008" on 5" or
so of a test cut).

This is my new lathe

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/

This is a 13x48 Clausing 5913 lathe.

I bought it this morning.

The lathe is also rather dirty, but unlike my current one, the bed
looked a lot better and did not have any scratches or gouges nearly as
big as on my current lathe.

Having learned at least something, this time I ran a test by turning
down a piece of pipe. The cut was 8" long. The not so careful
measurement of the resulting thickness, with an analog caliper, showed
the diameter being within 1-2 thousandths of an inch, throughout. The
measurement was not very careful (though I tried) and the cutter was not
great either.

The lathe includes 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a bunch of tailstock tooling,
some cutters and many drill bits.

According to the seller, he bought it years ago from its original owner,
who did not use it for production purposes. (you never know if that sort
of thing is true). The seller did not use it for production either, he
has a plumbing company.

The price was $500.

The old lathe is now for sale. Here it is.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-Master-Lathe/

i

"Not used for production purposes" is like the "Old lady who only used it
on Sundays".

If that little old lady went drag racing every Sunday, and if the lathe
was used as a handy anvil for peening rivets, that could be worse than
the alternative.

Good luck with it.

--
www.wescottdesign.com

On 2010-01-04, Tim Wescott wrote:
"Not used for production purposes" is like the "Old lady who only used it
on Sundays".

If that little old lady went drag racing every Sunday, and if the lathe
was used as a handy anvil for peening rivets, that could be worse than
the alternative.

Yes. It remains to be seen. I am somewhat encouraged by my attempt to
make a test cut (and measure the taper), so perhaps this lathe will be
better than the old one.

i

--Brings back memories! Gimme a holler if ya ever get tired of it..
;-)

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Currently broke and
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : looking for a job...
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

Good move. Best thing you could do. Refurbishing the old one would have cost you a lot more.
Steve


"Ignoramus20205" wrote in message ...
As you may recall, I was unhappy with my old Clausing colchester lathe
13x36 lathe due to a lot of wear and lack of precision (0.008" on 5"
or so of a test cut).

This is my new lathe

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/

This is a 13x48 Clausing 5913 lathe.

I bought it this morning.

The lathe is also rather dirty, but unlike my current one, the bed
looked a lot better and did not have any scratches or gouges nearly as
big as on my current lathe.

Having learned at least something, this time I ran a test by turning
down a piece of pipe. The cut was 8" long. The not so careful
measurement of the resulting thickness, with an analog caliper, showed
the diameter being within 1-2 thousandths of an inch, throughout. The
measurement was not very careful (though I tried) and the cutter was
not great either.

The lathe includes 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a bunch of tailstock tooling,
some cutters and many drill bits.

According to the seller, he bought it years ago from its original
owner, who did not use it for production purposes. (you never know if
that sort of thing is true). The seller did not use it for production
either, he has a plumbing company.

The price was $500.

The old lathe is now for sale. Here it is.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-Master-Lathe/

i

On 2010-01-04, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Good move. Best thing you could do. Refurbishing the old one would
have cost you a lot more.

Thanks. I agree 100%. I hope that I have not goofed on this lathe and
that my measurements of the test cut (0.001 or so) told me the right
thing.

i



"Ignoramus20205" wrote in message ...
As you may recall, I was unhappy with my old Clausing colchester lathe
13x36 lathe due to a lot of wear and lack of precision (0.008" on 5"
or so of a test cut).

This is my new lathe

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/

This is a 13x48 Clausing 5913 lathe.

I bought it this morning.

The lathe is also rather dirty, but unlike my current one, the bed
looked a lot better and did not have any scratches or gouges nearly as
big as on my current lathe.

Having learned at least something, this time I ran a test by turning
down a piece of pipe. The cut was 8" long. The not so careful
measurement of the resulting thickness, with an analog caliper, showed
the diameter being within 1-2 thousandths of an inch, throughout. The
measurement was not very careful (though I tried) and the cutter was
not great either.

The lathe includes 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a bunch of tailstock tooling,
some cutters and many drill bits.

According to the seller, he bought it years ago from its original
owner, who did not use it for production purposes. (you never know if
that sort of thing is true). The seller did not use it for production
either, he has a plumbing company.

The price was $500.

The old lathe is now for sale. Here it is.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-Master-Lathe/

i

Ignoramus20205 wrote:
On 2010-01-04, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Good move. Best thing you could do. Refurbishing the old one would
have cost you a lot more.

Thanks. I agree 100%. I hope that I have not goofed on this lathe and
that my measurements of the test cut (0.001 or so) told me the right
thing.

Were it me, I would measure using a tenths micrometer (had I one).

--Winston

--

Congratulations Robert Piccinini and Steven A. Burd, WalMart Publicists of the Year!

On 2010-01-04, Winston wrote:
Ignoramus20205 wrote:
On 2010-01-04, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Good move. Best thing you could do. Refurbishing the old one would
have cost you a lot more.

Thanks. I agree 100%. I hope that I have not goofed on this lathe and
that my measurements of the test cut (0.001 or so) told me the right
thing.

Were it me, I would measure using a tenths micrometer (had I one).


Winston, I will do so as soon as I get it under power. I will bring it
home two weeks from now.

i

Ignoramus20205 wrote:
On 2010-01-04, Winston wrote:
Ignoramus20205 wrote:
On 2010-01-04, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Good move. Best thing you could do. Refurbishing the old one would
have cost you a lot more.
Thanks. I agree 100%. I hope that I have not goofed on this lathe and
that my measurements of the test cut (0.001 or so) told me the right
thing.
Were it me, I would measure using a tenths micrometer (had I one).


Winston, I will do so as soon as I get it under power. I will bring it
home two weeks from now.

Excellent!

--Winston

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 11:09:24 -0800, Winston
wrote:

Ignoramus20205 wrote:
On 2010-01-04, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Good move. Best thing you could do. Refurbishing the old one would
have cost you a lot more.

Thanks. I agree 100%. I hope that I have not goofed on this lathe and
that my measurements of the test cut (0.001 or so) told me the right
thing.

Were it me, I would measure using a tenths micrometer (had I one).

--Winston


Blink blink...you dont have one????

Need one?

Gunner

"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766

"Ignoramus20205" wrote in message
...
As you may recall, I was unhappy with my old Clausing colchester lathe
13x36 lathe due to a lot of wear and lack of precision (0.008" on 5"
or so of a test cut).

This is my new lathe

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/

This is a 13x48 Clausing 5913 lathe.

I bought it this morning.

The lathe is also rather dirty, but unlike my current one, the bed
looked a lot better and did not have any scratches or gouges nearly as
big as on my current lathe.

Having learned at least something, this time I ran a test by turning
down a piece of pipe. The cut was 8" long. The not so careful
measurement of the resulting thickness, with an analog caliper, showed
the diameter being within 1-2 thousandths of an inch, throughout. The
measurement was not very careful (though I tried) and the cutter was
not great either.

The lathe includes 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a bunch of tailstock tooling,
some cutters and many drill bits.

According to the seller, he bought it years ago from its original
owner, who did not use it for production purposes. (you never know if
that sort of thing is true). The seller did not use it for production
either, he has a plumbing company.

The price was $500.

Excellent price, it seems. When I was looking a few years ago, $1500 was
asking.
Is this the one with the hydraulic speed control? I've heard that can be a
little dicey -- saw one pop a leak.

I have a 13 x 40 (I think) Clausing Colchester, w/ 5C snap handle -- a real
work-horse, and accurate..
Used to use it all the time in another location, but in my shop, I'm sort of
stuck on my my china Enco - DRO (x,y), Aloris, snap-handle 5C, cam-lock
chucks.... Someone else had done a really good job of getting New Enco
kinks out, like missing screws, etc. Now it's great.
Not nearly the oomph etc of the CC, but great for prototype stuff, and
MUCH easier to switch between collets and chuck -- much easier.
--
EA



The old lathe is now for sale. Here it is.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-Master-Lathe/

i

By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

i

In article ,
Ignoramus20205 wrote:

By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

That you did very well, or, more likely, that the prior owner replaced
the crossfeed nut and perhaps crossfeed screw. I replaced the crossfeed
nut on my 5914, and it *really* helped. I also replaced the gibs and
one mangled gib adjustment screw. Clausing still supplies all these
parts, so it was pretty easy.

Disassembly, cleaning, and oiling (with way oil) of the crossfeed and
the compound really helped too - things were pretty gummed up with
spooge. A mix of kerosene and acetone works wonders.

Joe Gwinn

On 2010-01-04, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus20205 wrote:

By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

That you did very well, or, more likely, that the prior owner replaced
the crossfeed nut and perhaps crossfeed screw. I replaced the crossfeed
nut on my 5914, and it *really* helped. I also replaced the gibs and
one mangled gib adjustment screw. Clausing still supplies all these
parts, so it was pretty easy.

Disassembly, cleaning, and oiling (with way oil) of the crossfeed and
the compound really helped too - things were pretty gummed up with
spooge. A mix of kerosene and acetone works wonders.

Joe, thanks. I will see where I screwed up when I run it. There was
some noise when running, but I believe, rightly or wrongly, that these
are a little noisy lathes. My friend has a 5900 type lathe and his is
very nice, but also emits noise.

I bought a manual today.

i

In article ,
Ignoramus20205 wrote:

On 2010-01-04, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus20205 wrote:

By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

That you did very well, or, more likely, that the prior owner replaced
the crossfeed nut and perhaps crossfeed screw. I replaced the crossfeed
nut on my 5914, and it *really* helped. I also replaced the gibs and
one mangled gib adjustment screw. Clausing still supplies all these
parts, so it was pretty easy.

Disassembly, cleaning, and oiling (with way oil) of the crossfeed and
the compound really helped too - things were pretty gummed up with
spooge. A mix of kerosene and acetone works wonders.

Joe, thanks. I will see where I screwed up when I run it. There was
some noise when running, but I believe, rightly or wrongly, that these
are a little noisy lathes. My friend has a 5900 type lathe and his is
very nice, but also emits noise.

Yes, mine is also noisy, mostly due to the Reeves Drive.


I bought a manual today.

A very good idea. Clausing Tech Support is also quite helpful.

Joe Gwinn

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 14:47:52 -0600, Ignoramus20205
wrote:

By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

i

It means that someone has tightened up..or its never been used.

Gunner

"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766

On 2010-01-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 14:47:52 -0600, Ignoramus20205
wrote:

By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

i

It means that someone has tightened up..or its never been used.


Gunner... Here's my current feeling about it... And I have been wrong
often... I think that, indeed, it was not used too much (knocking on
wood vigorously). This is shown by my test cut, looking at bed,
running fingers over bed, backlash etc. However, I might find
something un-obvious that is broken when I get it home.

I already know a couple of things.

One, there was some oil under the headstock. If the lathe really
sat there for years, it is not really that much, but still.

Another, one handle is broken (the one that engages the gearbox), but
it should be a simple fix, I hope.

i

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 16:48:32 -0600, Ignoramus20205
wrote:

On 2010-01-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 14:47:52 -0600, Ignoramus20205
wrote:

By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

i

It means that someone has tightened up..or its never been used.


Gunner... Here's my current feeling about it... And I have been wrong
often... I think that, indeed, it was not used too much (knocking on
wood vigorously). This is shown by my test cut, looking at bed,
running fingers over bed, backlash etc. However, I might find
something un-obvious that is broken when I get it home.

I already know a couple of things.

One, there was some oil under the headstock. If the lathe really
sat there for years, it is not really that much, but still.

Another, one handle is broken (the one that engages the gearbox), but
it should be a simple fix, I hope.

i

Its entirely possible it was a lathe that saw very little use. On rare
occasions..one can stumble into one of those sweet sweet deals.

I bless Crom and all the odd gods when such a find comes my way.

No matter...take the beasty home and clean it up. It sounds like a
sweetheart, no matter if it was heavily used and properly rebuilt..or is
very very low time.. And either way...its one hell of a deal!

You did good boy...very very good indeed!


Gunner


"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766

Sure does. It indicates relative use or abuse (no lube) the lathe has experienced, but backlash there is a not problem, just get a
new crossfeed nut. If you have not changed one before, it can be a PITA. Let me know if you need to do this, I can help.
Steve

"Ignoramus20205" wrote in message ...
By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

i

On 2010-01-05, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Sure does. It indicates relative use or abuse (no lube) the lathe
has experienced, but backlash there is a not problem, just get a new
crossfeed nut. If you have not changed one before, it can be a
PITA. Let me know if you need to do this, I can help. Steve

Steve, are you saying that 0.003" backlash is bad? Or that crossfeed
nut was possibly replaced?

i

"Ignoramus20205" wrote in message ...
By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

i

On Tue, 05 Jan 2010 07:54:47 -0600, Ignoramus17642
wrote:

On 2010-01-05, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Sure does. It indicates relative use or abuse (no lube) the lathe
has experienced, but backlash there is a not problem, just get a new
crossfeed nut. If you have not changed one before, it can be a
PITA. Let me know if you need to do this, I can help. Steve

Steve, are you saying that 0.003" backlash is bad? Or that crossfeed
nut was possibly replaced?

Im saying it was either BRAND new..or its been replaced. Even new
machines often show more than that.

Gunner


i

"Ignoramus20205" wrote in message ...
By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

i


"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766

Ignoramus17642 wrote:
On 2010-01-05, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Sure does. It indicates relative use or abuse (no lube) the lathe
has experienced, but backlash there is a not problem, just get a new
crossfeed nut. If you have not changed one before, it can be a
PITA. Let me know if you need to do this, I can help. Steve

Steve, are you saying that 0.003" backlash is bad? Or that crossfeed
nut was possibly replaced?

i

"Ignoramus20205" wrote in message ...
By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

Mostly it indicates "We hate you!"!

Data point:

The crossfeed lash on my teeny Sherline is ~0.0043".
It works just fine, though I see I'm near the edge of the acceptable range
and ought to commit the four minutes necessary to dial it back down.

See the second sentence in:
http://www.sherline.com/backlash.htm

--Winston

--

Congratulations Robert Piccinini and Steven A. Burd, WalMart Publicists of the Year!

Ignoramus20205 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/

This is a 13x48 Clausing 5913 lathe.

I bought it this morning.

The lathe is also rather dirty, but unlike my current one, the bed
looked a lot better and did not have any scratches or gouges nearly as
big as on my current lathe.

Having learned at least something, this time I ran a test by turning
down a piece of pipe. The cut was 8" long. The not so careful
measurement of the resulting thickness, with an analog caliper, showed
the diameter being within 1-2 thousandths of an inch, throughout. The
measurement was not very careful (though I tried) and the cutter was
not great either.

The lathe includes 3 and 4 jaw chucks, a bunch of tailstock tooling,
some cutters and many drill bits.

According to the seller, he bought it years ago from its original
owner, who did not use it for production purposes. (you never know if
that sort of thing is true). The seller did not use it for production
either, he has a plumbing company.

The price was $500.


6913, now I know what the 13 is (48"). I have the 6903 (30"). I'm slightly envious
expecially if your Reeves drives is good.

Issues with these is a deteriation of the green coating, and failing hydraulics.

If you have to work on the hydraulics, use quad seal orings where normal orings are used.
O ring packed lip seals also.

My hydraulics were toast.


Yes these lathes tend to be noisy due to the reaves drive.

The drive belt for the Reeves drive is non standard angle and pretty expensive.

The half nuts engage by pulling up, every lathe I've ever run but this works the other
way.

Make sure you don't put it into back gear and fail to pull the pin for direct drive. Very
hard on belt.

What does your lead screw look like? Is the slot down the screw that is used for cutting
feed of a uniform width?

Cross slide hand wheel and compound hand wheel read in diameter reduction. Trig required
for other than 90 degree compound angle

If you do small work, you are going to want to use 5C collets. From time to time 4 1/2T to
5c adaptors are found on ebay. Collets are great for ~1" and down work.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/semi...lletcloser.jpg

That is a picture of the closer I'm making for my lathe. I'm waiting for material for the
handwheel and nose protector to show up. Nose protector not shown.

The adaptor is the second from right item.

Details for building your own nose protector can be figured out by measuring your machine
and refering to drawings at this link.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/manu...ies/index.html

The motor is 230/460 volt 3 ph 3hp.

My learning session with mine as in replacing the green coating, replacing delrin af
bushings, and dealing with a cracked sheave is documented below.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/Clausing.html

I probably should have just redid the delrin bushings and run the coatings a bit longer
rather than doing the moglice thing off the bat. Oh well.

If your reeves drive is bad, I'd go VFD now, live with a little less torque, you still
would have back gear so it isn't that bad.

You have a solid lathe that should serve you well for a lifetime.

You really suck bud!

Wes

On 2010-01-05, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus20205 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/

This is a 13x48 Clausing 5913 lathe.

....

6913, now I know what the 13 is (48").

I am not sure, I thought that I saw some 6913 lathes of completely
different sizes.

I have the 6903 (30"). I'm slightly envious expecially if your
Reeves drives is good.

Remains to be seen. I foolishly forgot to test to change variable
speed. The lathe ran, however, and not at the fastest or slowest
speed.

Issues with these is a deteriation of the green coating,

Deterioration would be to put it mildly.

and failing hydraulics.

I am a little worried about that, indeed, as there is a little oil
under the base, which can be seen on the pictures.

If you have to work on the hydraulics, use quad seal orings where
normal orings are used. O ring packed lip seals also.

My hydraulics were toast.

So, what if, let's say, mine is toast too. Is replacing rings
something that someone can do in a straightforward way? I am looking
at the manual emailed to me by Clausing, and it looks like the
hydraulic stuff is easy to take off, at least.


Yes these lathes tend to be noisy due to the reaves drive.

The drive belt for the Reeves drive is non standard angle and pretty
expensive.

The half nuts engage by pulling up, every lathe I've ever run but this works the other
way.

Make sure you don't put it into back gear and fail to pull the pin
for direct drive. Very hard on belt.

OK, I did not even consider this, thanks.

What does your lead screw look like? Is the slot down the screw
that is used for cutting feed of a uniform width?

Cross slide hand wheel and compound hand wheel read in diameter
reduction. Trig required for other than 90 degree compound angle

If you do small work, you are going to want to use 5C collets. From
time to time 4 1/2T to 5c adaptors are found on ebay. Collets are
great for ~1" and down work.

Looks very useful. I will first bring the lathe home and make sure
that it works, and then, will try to find something like that.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/semi...lletcloser.jpg

That is a picture of the closer I'm making for my lathe. I'm
waiting for material for the handwheel and nose protector to show
up. Nose protector not shown.

Very nice.

The adaptor is the second from right item.

Details for building your own nose protector can be figured out by measuring your machine
and refering to drawings at this link.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/manu...ies/index.html

The motor is 230/460 volt 3 ph 3hp.

Same here.

My learning session with mine as in replacing the green coating,
replacing delrin af bushings, and dealing with a cracked sheave is
documented below.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/Clausing.html

Wes, great pictures, it is nice to have uncles like that.

I probably should have just redid the delrin bushings and run the
coatings a bit longer rather than doing the moglice thing off the
bat. Oh well.

If your reeves drive is bad, I'd go VFD now, live with a little less
torque, you still would have back gear so it isn't that bad.

Yep, indeed I think that you are right on this one.

You have a solid lathe that should serve you well for a lifetime.

You really suck bud!

The updates will be sure to follow... I do expect some bad
surprises...

i

Ignoramus17642 wrote:

On 2010-01-05, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus20205 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clausing-6913-Lathe/

This is a 13x48 Clausing 5913 lathe.

...

6913, now I know what the 13 is (48").

I am not sure, I thought that I saw some 6913 lathes of completely
different sizes.

I've never seen a break down of model numbers. They also made turret lathes iirc.

I have the 6903 (30"). I'm slightly envious expecially if your
Reeves drives is good.

Remains to be seen. I foolishly forgot to test to change variable
speed. The lathe ran, however, and not at the fastest or slowest
speed.

Mine wouldn't hold a speed range when I tried it. I could move the sheeves but it sprung
back quickly. Seems to hold fine now after a bit of work.

Issues with these is a deteriation of the green coating,

Deterioration would be to put it mildly.

and failing hydraulics.

I am a little worried about that, indeed, as there is a little oil
under the base, which can be seen on the pictures.

There are lots of places to leak oil. Head stock, QC box, apron. Don't get too worried
yet. I'm hoping you lucked into a real deal.

If you have to work on the hydraulics, use quad seal orings where
normal orings are used. O ring packed lip seals also.

My hydraulics were toast.

So, what if, let's say, mine is toast too. Is replacing rings
something that someone can do in a straightforward way? I am looking
at the manual emailed to me by Clausing, and it looks like the
hydraulic stuff is easy to take off, at least.

Easy. McMaster had everying thing I need except for one v lip packing that applied
technology had for a price Damn proud of that bit of kit.


Yes these lathes tend to be noisy due to the reaves drive.

The drive belt for the Reeves drive is non standard angle and pretty
expensive.

The half nuts engage by pulling up, every lathe I've ever run but this works the other
way.

Make sure you don't put it into back gear and fail to pull the pin
for direct drive. Very hard on belt.

OK, I did not even consider this, thanks.

That is just normal stuff you need to know. Beats burning a divot in the belt though.

[snip]

Looks very useful. I will first bring the lathe home and make sure
that it works, and then, will try to find something like that.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/semi...lletcloser.jpg

That is a picture of the closer I'm making for my lathe. I'm
waiting for material for the handwheel and nose protector to show
up. Nose protector not shown.

Very nice.

The adaptor is the second from right item.

I see from other links you are looking for a MT4 1/2 adaptor, I found my on fleabay for 75
bucks two years ago.

Details for building your own nose protector can be figured out by measuring your machine
and refering to drawings at this link.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/manu...ies/index.html

The motor is 230/460 volt 3 ph 3hp.

Same here.

My learning session with mine as in replacing the green coating,
replacing delrin af bushings, and dealing with a cracked sheave is
documented below.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/Clausing.html

Wes, great pictures, it is nice to have uncles like that.

Uncle went on both trips to pick up machines. The trip to Rockford, Ill to get the
bridgeport was a real hair raiser. After I got there, I realized they are a current
supplier to the plant I work at. They could have shipped it with me paying the extra
freight. Of course, I wanted to see it before handing over the postal money orders.

I probably should have just redid the delrin bushings and run the
coatings a bit longer rather than doing the moglice thing off the
bat. Oh well.

If your reeves drive is bad, I'd go VFD now, live with a little less
torque, you still would have back gear so it isn't that bad.

Yep, indeed I think that you are right on this one.

That is my plan if my repairs fail.

I forgot to mention, this lathe has a clutch / brake. Very nice. If you are threading,
you can thread up to a shoulder and stop the whole works, NOW.

I like the fact that I don't have to make the lights blink when I start and stop it to
make a measurement. You can stop the chuck and leave the motor running. (Some thing
zztop about that).


You have a solid lathe that should serve you well for a lifetime.

You really suck bud!

The updates will be sure to follow... I do expect some bad
surprises...

It sounds like a machine that a few suprises won't be devistating.

i

Wes

On 2010-01-04, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 14:47:52 -0600, Ignoramus20205
wrote:

By the way guys... One question... Is it a reliable way to guess the
wear by looking at the backlash in the crossfeed?

On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

i

It means that someone has tightened up..or its never been used.

Hmm ... more likely the latter. There is no adjustment to
"tighten up" the cross-feed on a Clausing of this size.

Now -- a new leadscrew and nut are possibilities.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2010-01-05, Wes wrote:
I have the 6903 (30"). I'm slightly envious expecially if your
Reeves drives is good.

Remains to be seen. I foolishly forgot to test to change variable
speed. The lathe ran, however, and not at the fastest or slowest
speed.

Mine wouldn't hold a speed range when I tried it. I could move the
sheeves but it sprung back quickly. Seems to hold fine now after a
bit of work.

The manual says that this may be due to air in the lines.

Issues with these is a deteriation of the green coating,

Deterioration would be to put it mildly.

and failing hydraulics.

I am a little worried about that, indeed, as there is a little oil
under the base, which can be seen on the pictures.

There are lots of places to leak oil. Head stock, QC box, apron.
Don't get too worried yet. I'm hoping you lucked into a real deal.

I hope so too.

If you have to work on the hydraulics, use quad seal orings where
normal orings are used. O ring packed lip seals also.

My hydraulics were toast.

So, what if, let's say, mine is toast too. Is replacing rings
something that someone can do in a straightforward way? I am looking
at the manual emailed to me by Clausing, and it looks like the
hydraulic stuff is easy to take off, at least.

Easy. McMaster had everying thing I need except for one v lip
packing that applied technology had for a price Damn proud of
that bit of kit.

Awesome
Wes, great pictures, it is nice to have uncles like that.

Uncle went on both trips to pick up machines. The trip to Rockford,
Ill to get the bridgeport was a real hair raiser. After I got
there, I realized they are a current supplier to the plant I work
at. They could have shipped it with me paying the extra freight.
Of course, I wanted to see it before handing over the postal money
orders.

I remember the story and the pictures. I hope that sleet and salt did
not get into nooks and crannies.

I probably should have just redid the delrin bushings and run the
coatings a bit longer rather than doing the moglice thing off the
bat. Oh well.

If your reeves drive is bad, I'd go VFD now, live with a little less
torque, you still would have back gear so it isn't that bad.

Yep, indeed I think that you are right on this one.

That is my plan if my repairs fail.

I forgot to mention, this lathe has a clutch / brake. Very nice.
If you are threading, you can thread up to a shoulder and stop the
whole works, NOW.

My old Clausing has a brake too. It is very nice (and a VFD could
emulate braking)

I like the fact that I don't have to make the lights blink when I
start and stop it to make a measurement. You can stop the chuck and
leave the motor running. (Some thing zztop about that).

On this machine, the chuck continues to spin, but at a greatly reduced
rate, maybe 20 RPM.


You have a solid lathe that should serve you well for a lifetime.

You really suck bud!

The updates will be sure to follow... I do expect some bad
surprises...

It sounds like a machine that a few suprises won't be devistating.

I am beginning to think so too, I am less worried about hydraulics.

i

On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 14:47:52 -0600, Ignoramus20205
wrote:


On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

My 4900 series 12x24 Clausing has at least .020 backlash. I think you
did well, both on lack of wear and on price. Somebody in the
Allentown, PA area listed one on Craigslist in Nov at $2000. I don't
know if he got it or not. Let me know if your apron leaks oil when
you use the longitudinal feed. I'm not sure if the bronze bushing
that the lead screw slides through is worn or if all Clausing aprons
leak because of the single screw drive system they use..

RWL

On 2010-01-06, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 14:47:52 -0600, Ignoramus20205
wrote:


On this lathe, the backlash (free movement of screw that does not move
the crossfeed) was about 0.003".

Does it tell me anything at all?

My 4900 series 12x24 Clausing has at least .020 backlash. I think you
did well, both on lack of wear and on price. Somebody in the
Allentown, PA area listed one on Craigslist in Nov at $2000. I don't
know if he got it or not. Let me know if your apron leaks oil when
you use the longitudinal feed. I'm not sure if the bronze bushing
that the lead screw slides through is worn or if all Clausing aprons
leak because of the single screw drive system they use..

I will be sure to let you know. I am cleaning out my garage
frantically (about to start listing stuff on ebay)

i