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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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freakin' compressor motor's ALREADY krapped out, and only 34 yrs old....
The red button is a thermal protection device that is designed to open when
the air passing over it (motor heat) reaches a set temperature. This prevents further temperature rise, and protects the motor's wiring insulation. The TP thermal protection button/switch won't reset until the motor cools down to a reasonable temperature, so if the motor gets hot and the TP opens, pushing the reset button won't reset the TP if the motor hasn't cooled sufficiently. Testing the TP can be done with an ohm meter or a battery powered continuity tester. A continuity test is only to be done on circuits or parts with no power applied. An ohm meter check will show very low (near zero ohms) resistance, and the continuity tester will light if the TP is closed, as it should be, at room temperature. If the TP has failed, you can probably get a suitable replacement at a motor repair shop. There is most likely a temperaure marked on the part itself, indicating the temperature rating. For your extension cord, longer cords should always be a larger gage than the power cord for motor powered equipment and other moderately heavy loads.. heaters, welders, pumps etc. Old extension cords can have loose terminal screws, weak contact pressure and broken strands. If the motor's centrifugal switch is making good contact, has a good start capacitor and the TP is closed, and the motor doesn't start with the proper voltage applied.. then it's very likely that the stator windings are damaged assuming all other connections are secure). If the stator windings are damaged, it's not going to be cost effective to have the motor repaired. If the pressure swich is faulty, that's a separate issue as far as troubleshooting the motor (but you said it's been bypassed). Check TP continuity. Confirm that the centrifugal switch contacts are closed. Motor should run with proper voltage. Confirm that the new capacitor isn't faulty. If you're uncertain of any of these comments, have an experienced and qualified person check these items for you. -- WB .......... metalworking projects www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html "dave" wrote in message ... sprayed some welder tinware out in the yard, started cleaning the gun afterward, notice pressure getting low, but I'm still plugged in, checked everything... a day later: bypassed the on/off switch, then bypassed that AND the 'blowoff' switch thing too ("for good measure"), still no go/all still VMB (very much bricklike). ordered, bought (and waited for) then installed, today, the new 'mcmaster' capacitor (recommended here, thanks guys :-), but -still- no good. and, yeah, I just 'assumed' the old capacitor was bad...(though "hoped" might be the better word) see some of the compressor glamor, or "lack thereof" at my site: http://machines.2x.nu/air_compressor_krapped_out/ motor still belly-up, even with the new capacitor installed. what's the reset button SUPPOSED to do and how do I know if it WORKS? tried that, too, of course, to no avail. feels like a spring-loaded button pressing against a steel plate "all ahead dead stop" or some damn thing. tested the incoming 'hots', and they're live (neon test light) and the electric is likewise live where the tiny spades push onto the motor male spade connectors, inside the tiny stomach-shaped motor end-cap. they're tight there, too. had that entire endbell off the motor a few days ago too, to 'look it over in there' a bit: centrifugal switch contacts have been lightly sanded (280 wet and dry/used dry) then cleaned with lacq thinner on paper, so they're clean. functionally looks OK, motion and slides good, no busted springs, all groovey. we're "good to go" in there. get the motor specifics in this image: http://machines.2x.nu/air_compressor...os/photo5.html freakin' motor. need this thing. got some die grindering to do 'yesterday'. this *SUCKS* one of those ol' craftsman "4 hp" motors with the 5/8ths shaft. 15 amp, 1.0 SF, 3450 RPM, capacitor start (but not capacitor run), single phase, made by goulds-Century. needs to run Counter-C'wise when viewed facing shaft end. probably cheaper to buy a 'new' (used) compressor COMPLETE than a motor for THIS one. maybe we can work a swapfest? if you have time to burn, see my "air compressor KRAPPED OUT" movie, too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvmDd1nvdd0 anybody got an old "electric motors - troubleshooting them by their symptoms" book? thanks guys :-/ toolie the perplexed |
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