Wild_Bill wrote:
The red button is a thermal protection device that is designed to open
when the air passing over it (motor heat) reaches a set temperature.
This prevents further temperature rise, and protects the motor's wiring
insulation.
The TP thermal protection button/switch won't reset until the motor
cools down to a reasonable temperature, so if the motor gets hot and the
TP opens, pushing the reset button won't reset the TP if the motor
hasn't cooled sufficiently.

Testing the TP can be done with an ohm meter or a battery powered
continuity tester.
I prefer using the "twin LED" tester I made, powered by an old walwart.
I just posted images of it...
A continuity test is only to be done on circuits or
parts with no power applied.
I like to wear soaking wet boots, lick salt, then put my tongue on one
terminal...and the arc welder on the other, on "high, straight polarity"
(livens up my day a bit :-)

An ohm meter check will show very low (near zero ohms) resistance, and
the continuity tester will light if the TP is closed, as it should be,
at room temperature.

If the TP has failed, you can probably get a suitable replacement at a
motor repair shop.
yeah, but I HATE paying retail, bill...and ENJOY 'reverse engineering'
too much to pay retail, or to use "the right stuff" when I can adapt
something else ENTIRELY (preferably out of my 'stash-heap') to do the
job. I mean like, if it's doable...

There is most likely a temperaure marked on the part
itself, indicating the temperature rating.
hmm, didn't realize that, I'm gonna go look, DERN good thing I haven't
yet reassemled it yet aGAIN...thank you bill :-)

For your extension cord, longer cords should always be a larger gage
than the power cord for motor powered equipment and other moderately
heavy loads.. heaters, welders, pumps etc.
Old extension cords can have loose terminal screws, weak contact
pressure and broken strands.
what about black tape? one of my cords has a slight rip I taped...I
think. that OK? you with OSHA? sometimes I use "odd color" tape too.
once I even used SCOTCH tape as an insulator... :-)


If the motor's centrifugal switch is making good contact, has a good
start capacitor and the TP is closed, and the motor doesn't start with
the proper voltage applied.. then it's very likely that the stator
windings are damaged assuming all other connections are secure).
If the stator windings are damaged, it's not going to be cost effective
to have the motor repaired.
the way I see it, if the motor has to even go in the DOORWAY of a motor
repair shop "that's all she wrote", never mind 'cost effective'. had ONE
motor rebuilt ONE time, and found out, years later, the problem wasn't
with the motor at ALL, but with the squirrel cage blower fanblade
*HUB*...yet, they TOLD me they "rebuilt" it, and charged me for it. they
only thing they "rebuilt" I think was my wallet, by thinning it out some....

remind me to tell ya the story of the time I took my radiator in, cause
my car was overheating. they said, and I thought, it needed 'rodding
out'. so I left it with them, the oldest radiator shop in town. get it
back, reinstall it, and months later, I'm still "running a bit hot",
even with the AC off. this was 'back in the day' when radiators were all
brass. this, of course, was after I personally tested, and/or
replaced/rebuilt all the 'more obvious' stuff, like water pumps,
thermostat, hoses, etc

so I took the frickin' thing out *AGAIN*, this time I used my oxi-acet
torch setup, and THIS VERY SAME AIR COMPRESSOR, to blow ALL the solder
out of one of the radiator endcaps, all the way around. I'd never ever
repaired a radiator before, or even seen one opened up. what'd I find?
take a guess? yup, those guys, my BUDDIES, never rodded it out, because
about 80 percent of the passages were clogged SOLID, and another 16
percent were partially clogged...so...I rodded the ****a out MYDAMNSELF,
with a thin piece of sheet metal. took a LONG time, too, it kept bending
(wasn't hardened, or even spring steel). but guess what? AFTER *my*
work, it runs WAY better and VASTLY cooler than after "their" work....

word to the weary: if you have a car with a brass radiator, and you're
'contemplating' having it rodded out: centerpunch both end solder seams
in a few places lightly, that way you can tell afterward if they EVEN
OPENED THE THING UP, LIKE IS *REQUIRED* FOR THE ROD-OUT procedure. or,
maybe the just repainted it...

woops, sorry, maybe I got carried away...

If the pressure swich is faulty, that's a separate issue as far as
troubleshooting the motor (but you said it's been bypassed).
yeah, and I meant it, too. it was bypassed. still is. I might bypass 90%
of the electrics on this heap, too, just to get it goin'....call me "the
ol' bypasser" ;-)

Check TP continuity.
Confirm that the centrifugal switch contacts are closed.
Motor should run with proper voltage.
Confirm that the new capacitor isn't faulty.
hmm, thought of that too. if it's a bad new one, maybe I can temporarily
replace it with my OTHER "bummer" capacitor, the old original one "of
dubious functionality" ? that be better? worse? a wash?

sometimes baffilation sweeps over bubbaland

If you're uncertain of any of these comments, have an experienced and
qualified person check these items for you.
if I can't do, bill, with help from you guys, it AIN'T gonna get fixed.
it'd be "end of story" for bubba's compressor. but, it'll get
fixed...yet. after a few days research lately, I've decided "newer"
compressors have little appeal: they make WAY too much noise, last WAY
TOO SHORT a time for what you pay for them, and their parts are made in
WAY TOO MANY distant lands, from 'weirdoleum' components. PLUS this one
is "right sized" for my needs, barely, but workable...I'd LOVE a bigger
one, two stage, but got no place to house it. I'd actually love a 90 hp
880 volt atlas-copco rotary screw, with a refrigerator-sized
dryer....but, then again who wouldn't?

thanks bill :-)