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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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93 suburban hint, with metal working content
if anyone else has a 93 suburban, you will find that the gas springs to lift
the rear glass are now unavailable. If you get Monroe Max Lift 901359, shorten the shaft by 4.5 inches and tap to 1/4X28 and reuse the plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it. There, on topic, no politics, and helpful. -- Bill www.wbnoble.com |
#2
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93 suburban hint, with metal working content
Bill Noble wrote:
if anyone else has a 93 suburban, you will find that the gas springs to lift the rear glass are now unavailable. If you get Monroe Max Lift 901359, shorten the shaft by 4.5 inches and tap to 1/4X28 and reuse the plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it. There, on topic, no politics, and helpful. Or check around. We still show 2 in stock at our warehouse. I'm sure there are lots of them around the country. Also check Gabriel Strong Arms. |
#3
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93 suburban hint, with metal working content
Sorry to show my ignorance, but what are you referring to by "turn it down
from the end before parting off"? Roger "Bill Noble" wrote in message ... if anyone else has a 93 suburban, you will find that the gas springs to lift the rear glass are now unavailable. If you get Monroe Max Lift 901359, shorten the shaft by 4.5 inches and tap to 1/4X28 and reuse the plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it. There, on topic, no politics, and helpful. -- Bill www.wbnoble.com |
#4
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93 suburban hint, with metal working content
On Tue, 7 Jul 2009 13:25:17 -0700, "Bill Noble"
wrote: if anyone else has a 93 suburban, you will find that the gas springs to lift the rear glass are now unavailable. If you get Monroe Max Lift 901359, shorten the shaft by 4.5 inches and tap to 1/4X28 and reuse the plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it. There, on topic, no politics, and helpful. Why would you need to shorten the strut shaft? Too long, and the hinges should stop it when it gets to the end of travel. Or if it's going to bend/break something by opening too far, get the next shorter size of universal gas strut. And big deal if it doesn't open quite as far as it used to. There are a few hundred different models of universal gas struts out there, broken down by extended/retracted length and force in pounds. Then you pick the screw-on end fitings needed for your application. -- Bruce -- |
#5
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93 suburban hint, with metal working content
On 2009-07-08, Roger Paskell wrote:
"Bill Noble" wrote in message ... [ ... ] plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it. [ ... ] Sorry to show my ignorance, but what are you referring to by "turn it down from the end before parting off"? The shaft is case hardened (surface only, with the rest being simply tough steel). It is difficult to start a parting tool through a case hardened surface, so you start with a normal turning tool (probably carbide if you have it, and start turning at the end where you can cut under the surface and peel the surface away as you cut. Once you get to the right position where you have exposed the softer under surface, you want to swap to the parting tool which can handle the inner metal though it can't handle the hardened surface. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#6
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93 suburban hint, with metal working content
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2009-07-08, Roger Paskell wrote: "Bill Noble" wrote in message ... [ ... ] plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it. [ ... ] Sorry to show my ignorance, but what are you referring to by "turn it down from the end before parting off"? The shaft is case hardened (surface only, with the rest being simply tough steel). It is difficult to start a parting tool through a case hardened surface, so you start with a normal turning tool (probably carbide if you have it, and start turning at the end where you can cut under the surface and peel the surface away as you cut. Once you get to the right position where you have exposed the softer under surface, you want to swap to the parting tool which can handle the inner metal though it can't handle the hardened surface. Enjoy, DoN. Or you can do it the way most body shops do. Use an abrasive wheel, cut it short, then heat the end red hot, then cut the threads. This assumes you cannot locate the correct length from any of the catalogs. -- Steve W. |
#7
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93 suburban hint, with metal working content
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2009-07-08, Roger Paskell wrote: "Bill Noble" wrote in message ... [ ... ] plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it. [ ... ] Sorry to show my ignorance, but what are you referring to by "turn it down from the end before parting off"? The shaft is case hardened (surface only, with the rest being simply tough steel). It is difficult to start a parting tool through a case hardened surface, so you start with a normal turning tool (probably carbide if you have it, and start turning at the end where you can cut under the surface and peel the surface away as you cut. Once you get to the right position where you have exposed the softer under surface, you want to swap to the parting tool which can handle the inner metal though it can't handle the hardened surface. I save those shafts for stock, and have to do exactly as you say to use them. Same with shock absorber and printer shafts |
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