if anyone else has a 93 suburban, you will find that the gas springs to lift
the rear glass are now unavailable. If you get Monroe Max Lift 901359,
shorten the shaft by 4.5 inches and tap to 1/4X28 and reuse the plastic ends
from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you
will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in
collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it.

There, on topic, no politics, and helpful.

--
Bill
www.wbnoble.com

Bill Noble wrote:
if anyone else has a 93 suburban, you will find that the gas springs to lift
the rear glass are now unavailable. If you get Monroe Max Lift 901359,
shorten the shaft by 4.5 inches and tap to 1/4X28 and reuse the plastic ends
from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you
will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in
collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it.

There, on topic, no politics, and helpful.


Or check around. We still show 2 in stock at our warehouse.
I'm sure there are lots of them around the country.
Also check Gabriel Strong Arms.

Sorry to show my ignorance, but what are you referring to by "turn it down
from the end before parting off"?

Roger

"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...
if anyone else has a 93 suburban, you will find that the gas springs to
lift the rear glass are now unavailable. If you get Monroe Max Lift
901359, shorten the shaft by 4.5 inches and tap to 1/4X28 and reuse the
plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is
hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off.
Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it.

There, on topic, no politics, and helpful.

--
Bill
www.wbnoble.com

On Tue, 7 Jul 2009 13:25:17 -0700, "Bill Noble"
wrote:

if anyone else has a 93 suburban, you will find that the gas springs to lift
the rear glass are now unavailable. If you get Monroe Max Lift 901359,
shorten the shaft by 4.5 inches and tap to 1/4X28 and reuse the plastic ends
from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is hardened, you
will need to turn it down from the end before parting off. Hold shaft in
collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it.

There, on topic, no politics, and helpful.

Why would you need to shorten the strut shaft? Too long, and the
hinges should stop it when it gets to the end of travel.

Or if it's going to bend/break something by opening too far, get the
next shorter size of universal gas strut. And big deal if it doesn't
open quite as far as it used to.

There are a few hundred different models of universal gas struts out
there, broken down by extended/retracted length and force in pounds.
Then you pick the screw-on end fitings needed for your application.

-- Bruce --

On 2009-07-08, Roger Paskell wrote:

"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...

[ ... ]

plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is
hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off.
Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it.

[ ... ]

Sorry to show my ignorance, but what are you referring to by "turn it down
from the end before parting off"?

The shaft is case hardened (surface only, with the rest being
simply tough steel). It is difficult to start a parting tool through a
case hardened surface, so you start with a normal turning tool (probably
carbide if you have it, and start turning at the end where you can cut
under the surface and peel the surface away as you cut. Once you get to
the right position where you have exposed the softer under surface, you
want to swap to the parting tool which can handle the inner metal though
it can't handle the hardened surface.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2009-07-08, Roger Paskell wrote:
"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...

[ ... ]

plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is
hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off.
Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it.

[ ... ]

Sorry to show my ignorance, but what are you referring to by "turn it down
from the end before parting off"?

The shaft is case hardened (surface only, with the rest being
simply tough steel). It is difficult to start a parting tool through a
case hardened surface, so you start with a normal turning tool (probably
carbide if you have it, and start turning at the end where you can cut
under the surface and peel the surface away as you cut. Once you get to
the right position where you have exposed the softer under surface, you
want to swap to the parting tool which can handle the inner metal though
it can't handle the hardened surface.

Enjoy,
DoN.


Or you can do it the way most body shops do. Use an abrasive wheel, cut
it short, then heat the end red hot, then cut the threads.
This assumes you cannot locate the correct length from any of the catalogs.

--
Steve W.

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2009-07-08, Roger Paskell wrote:
"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...

[ ... ]

plastic ends from your old ones, all is good again. Since the shaft is
hardened, you will need to turn it down from the end before parting off.
Hold shaft in collet or 6 jaw chuck so you don't mar it.

[ ... ]

Sorry to show my ignorance, but what are you referring to by "turn it down
from the end before parting off"?

The shaft is case hardened (surface only, with the rest being
simply tough steel). It is difficult to start a parting tool through a
case hardened surface, so you start with a normal turning tool (probably
carbide if you have it, and start turning at the end where you can cut
under the surface and peel the surface away as you cut. Once you get to
the right position where you have exposed the softer under surface, you
want to swap to the parting tool which can handle the inner metal though
it can't handle the hardened surface.

I save those shafts for stock, and have to do exactly as you say to use
them. Same with shock absorber and printer shafts